• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.292-304
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• 1993

The east Sea circulation is numerically modeled with refined grid resolution elaborated open boundary condition, and by directly imposing the measured surface temperature and salinity typical the east Korean Warm current are clearer than those in previous works. among others, The Ulleung warm Water and the Intermediate Water of minimum salinity are nicely reproduced. The latter is formed in the northern/northwestern coastal region in winter and is advocated southward by strong under-current. the former is associated with a locally generated anti-cyclonic gyres. The model indicates strong seasonal variation of Nearshore Current along the Japanese coast from wintertime barotropic to summertime baroclinic structures. the associated strong reversed under-cur-rent in summer is not well understood. Global circulation pattern is characterized by two regions of cyclonic and anti-cyclonic gyres in the north and south, respectively. The presence of these gyres indicates importance of local dynamics in East Sea circulation. This model, however, does not completely resolve the problem of overshooting of the East Korean Warm current.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.209-214
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• 2006

The East Sea Branch (ESB) of KORDI will be launched in 2008. She will take a role of monitoring the sea surface topography and temperature by satellites, short- and long-term sea levels by tide gauges, coastal currents and open-sea circulation by setting up coastal radars and mooring current-meters and acoustic equipments, as well as monitoring nearshore processes, coastal erosion and water pollution. A basic program of coastal zone management will help ocean-policy makers to set up right decisions based upon scientific background of the regional data in the East Sea. Networking among the neighboring countries around the sea will supply more useful information not only for experts but also for ordinary vacationers or fishermen. In order for this program to be successfully settled down during the next decade, it is necessary for a leader to have the right vision to attract more experts from global brain pools and to manage the ESB as a leading-edge observatory in the world. Details about this leading-edge operational program are introduced in the text.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.155-166
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• 1999

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

• Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.48-62
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• 1998

Seasonal volume transport on the Texas-Louisiana continental shelf is investigated in terms of objectively fitted transport streamfunction fields based on the current meter data of the Texas­Louisiana Shelf Circulation and Transport Processes Study. Adopted here for the objective mapping is a method employing a two-dimensional truncated Fourier representation of the streamfunction over a domain, with the amplitudes determined by least square fit of the observation. The fitting was done with depth-averaged flow rather than depth-integrated flow to reduce the root-mean-square error. The fitting process filters out $11\%$ of the kinetic energy in the monthly mean transport fields. The shelf-wide pattern of streamfunction fields is similar to that of near-surface velocity fields over the region. The nearshore transport, about 0.1 to 0.3 Sv $(1 Sv= 10^6\;m^3/sec)$, is well correlated with the seasonal signal of along-shelf wind stress. The spring transport is weak compared to other seasons in the inner shelf region. The transport along the shelf break is large and variable. In the southwestern shelf break, transport amounts up to 4.7 Sv, which is associated with the activities of the encroaching of energetic anticyclonic eddies originated in Loop Current of the eastern Gulf of Mexico. The first empirical orthogonal function (EOF) of streamfunction variability contains $67.3\%$ of the variance and shows a simple, shelf-wide, along-shelf pattern of transport. The amplitude evolution of the first EOF is highly correlated (correlation coefficient: 0.88) with the evolution of the along-shelf wind stress. This provides strong evidence that the large portion of seasonal variation of the shelf transport is wind-forced. The second EOF contains $23.7\%$ of the variance and shows eddy activities at the southwestern shelf break. The correlation coefficient between the amplitudes of the second EOF and wind stress is 0.42. We assume that this mode is coupled a periodic inner shelf process with a non-periodic eddy process on the shelf break. The third EOF (accounting for $7.2\% of the variance) shows several cell structures near the shelf break associated with the variability of the Loop Current Eddies. The amplitude time series of the third EOF show little correlation with the along-shelf wind.

• Journal of Korean Society on Water Environment
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.367-376
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• 2015

The momentum and kinetic turbulent energy carried by the wind to a stratified lake lead to basin-scale motions, which provide a major driving force for vertical and horizontal mixing. A three-dimensional (3D) hydrodynamic model was applied to Lake Tahoe, located between California and Nevada, USA, to simulate the dominant basin-scale internal waves in the deep lake. The results demonstrated that the model well represents the temporal and vertical variations of water temperature that allows the internal waves to be energized correctly at the basin scale. Both the model and thermistor chain (TC) data identified the presence of Kelvin modes and Poincare mode internal waves. The lake was weakly stratified during the study period, and produced large amplitude (up to 60 m) of internal oscillations after several wind events and partial upwelling near the southwestern lake. The partial upwelling and followed coastal jets could be an important feature of basin-scale internal waves because they can cause re-suspension and horizontal transport of fine particles from nearshore to offshore. The internal wave dynamics can be also associated with the distributions of water quality variables such as dissolved oxygen and nutrients in the lake. Thus, the basin-scale internal waves and horizontal circulation processes need to be accurately modeled for the correct simulation of the dissolved and particulate contaminants, and biogeochemical processes in the lake.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.50-55
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• 1999

Gao and Collins method (two-dimensional sediment transport trend-vector model) using grain-size parameters (mean grain size, sorting coefficient, and skewness) calculated by the statistical moment method is introduced to understand semi-quantitatively the sandy and surficial sediment transport trends on a coast of the East Sea. The result is the sediment transport vectors which indicate transport paths of surficial sediment by wave-induced currents. The corresponding morphological feature is a spit developed at the mouth of the Nam¬dae stream, which is a resultant sediment transported by longshore current and is blocking the circulation of ocean. After this, it is thought that seasonal research and hydrodynamic measurements are needed for verification of the results.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.87-94
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• 2007

This study used POM (Princeton ocean model) improved for applying to coastal area in order to predict the distribution of thermal waste water. This model was applied to the coastal circulation and the effect of thermal waste water of Cheonsu-Bay. So this study compared the discharge of thermal waste water with each layer and section. The tidal current was about 1.5 m/sec at surface level and 0.9 m/sec on bottom level at flood tide; tidal current was about 1.3 m/sec on surface level and 0.8 m/sec on bottom level at ebb tide. The method discharging the thermal waste water in the nearshore region (case 1) accelerates the diffusion of the thermal waste water in the north-south direction(longshore direction). However, the method discharge the thermal waster water in the offshore region (case 2) reduced the diffusion of the thermal waste water over the coastal region. According th the diffusion region of the thermal waste water with case 1 and case 2 at three different layers (surface, middle, bottom), the diffusion region by case 1 discharge method generally influenced wider region (twice) than the one by case 2 discharge method with lower temperature between $1^{\circ}C\;and\;2^{\circ}C$, whereas the case 2 discharge method influenced the deeper region (middle and botton layers) with higher change of the water temperature ($1{\sim}3^{\circ}C$).

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.339-346
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• 1993

Due to the natural increase of human population and the concentration of industrial complexes to coastal area, the uses of nearshore area were increased drastically, and the tendency will not stop for a while. Therefore, the loss of human life and property damages of the present days for a disaster of the same magnitude should be heavy as compared to those of the past. For the better utilization of the sea and the prevention of the frequent marine natural and man-made disaster, and for the preparedness for the ocean pollutions, through ocean researches are required. the circulation, tidal currents, storm surges, sea surface wind, waves and sea fogs of the Yellow Sea should be investigated first from the oceanographic point of view, and then the dispersion and diffusion of spilled oil and pollutants, beach erosion, red tide, and longterm sea level oscillations can be studied. International cooperation is crucial for the investigation of the sea because of the temporal and geographic scales of the oceanic phenomina.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.5B
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• pp.321-329
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• 2012

Two regular progressive wave trains, the directions of which are slightly different from each other, develop a honeycomb pattern of wave crests due to their nonlinear interaction. In the honeycomb pattern of wave crest, the nodal line area, which has very low wave energy, is formed. When the honeycomb pattern is developed near the beach area, rip current evolves through the nodal line area formed in the cross shore direction. In this study, to confirm that the formation of honeycomb pattern of waves near the beach area is a dominant mechanism of rip current occurred at Haeundae beach, we performed a numerical simulation of nearshore circulation at Haeundae beach under an unidirectional and monochromatic wave condition by using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. As a result, wave refraction due to topographical characteristics (i.e., submerged shoal) of Haeundae gave rise to several wave trains propagating with slightly different directions toward the beach, and consequently rip currents well developed through the nodal line area of honeycomb patterns of wave crest. In addition, we found that a narrow-banded spectral wave condition (i.e., a swell spectrum) increases more likelihood of rip current than a broad-banded spectral wave condtion based on the simulations employing various wave spectra with an equivalent wave height and period.