• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.315-322
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• 1999

The acquistion and dyeability of the Gardenia jasminoides were examined to establish the optimum condition for extraction and storage in the process of obtaining the natural dye, Gardenia jasminoides colorant. Also the dyeability and colorfastness of Gardenia jasminoides were investigated. The results of this study are as follows. The optimum part-removed seed. In all experiments, the part of fat-removed seed and pericarp was used. The optimum condition for extraction of Gardenia jasminoides colorant was at 40℃ and for 90 min. in methanol. As storage temperature was higher, the absorbance of colorant extract decreased rapidly. The Gardenia jasminoides colorant exhibited dyeability to cotton, silk, wool, and nylon. The dyeability was the greatest in wool, and then nylon, silk, and cotton. Both wool and nylon had the greatest K/S value at pH3, however, nylon and cotton at pH 6 and pH 8 respectively. In addition, the increase in K/S value corresponded to temperature in wool and nylon, but the silk and cotton had the greatest K/S value at 60℃. Also, the K/S value increased in concomitant with the increased number of dyeing repetition. In the most cases, colorfastness of light was weak but colorfastness of laundry, sweat was relatively excellent.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.239-244
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• 2004

On the whole the various medium colors were developed by repeat dyeing with different colorants after dyeing with one colorant in case of natural dyeing. In this study, in order to obtain various colors on wool fabrics with Gardenia and Sappan wood colorants, pre-mordanting and combination dyeing were carried out. Gardenia and Sappan wood used as natural colorants for combination dyeing showed good miscibility in dye bath, Metal compounds containing alum, copper and iron were used for pre-mordants. The various medium colors such as yellow-red were obtained according to various metal compounds for pre-mordants and various mixing portion of these natural colorants. The surface reflactance spectra and color characteristics of wool fabrics by mordanting and combination dyeing were investigated.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.21-27
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• 2011

The natural dyeing of cotton fabric with gardenia blue powder was studied. Cotton fabrics were treated with chitosan in order to increase K/S values and colorfastness. K/S values were increased with increasing the concentration of gardenia blue powder, dyeing time and temperature, and the lower pH of dye bath. In case of chitosan finishing, K/S values were increased, and ${\lambda}_{max}$ shifted to 600nm at 400nm. The wash fastness was improved, but the abrasion fastness was lowered in the case of wet rubbing.

• KSBB Journal
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.271-277
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• 2007

치자나무 (Gardenia jasminoides)는 우리나라 남부 지방에 널리 분포하는 이리도이드 (iridoid)계 꼭두서니과의 수목으로서 그 열매인 치자는 예로부터 옷감의 염료, 식용 색소 및 한방 약재로 널리 사용되어 왔다. 치자에 함유된 주요성분으로는 치자 과실에 이리도이드 배당체인 제니핀 (genipin: $C_{11}H_{14}O_5$)과 제니포사이드 (geniposide: $C_{17}H_{24}O_{10}$) 및 겐티오비오시드 (gentiobioside), 크로신 (crocin), 노나코산, 기르네노시드, 만니톨 등이 있고 잎에는 가데오시드 (gardeoside)가 포함되어 있다. 치자색소중 가장 대표적인 치자황색소는 매염처리에 따라 색상이 거의 변하지 않는 단색성 염료이면서 매염처리를 하지 않고도 면직물 등의 식물섬유에 염색이 되는 직접 염료로서 그 시장가치가 높다. 현재 치자황색소는 가격경쟁의 격화에 따라 금액 기준으로 약간 감소하고 있으나 수요 그 자체는 라면 등 식품을 중심으로 광범위한 시장을 형성하고 있다. 다음으로 치자청색소는 치자추출물을 효소반응이나 미생물 배양을 통한 가수분해에 의해 다량의 제니핀으로 전환하여 여러 아미노산과 함께 생산이 이루어지게 된다. 치자청색소는 단백질 섬유에 염색한 결과 매염제 없이도 우수한 착색을 보였으며, 견뢰도도 우수하게 나타났다. 또한 냉과류의 합성착색료 대체품으로 신장하고 있는 스피룰리나 청색소와 가격경쟁력이 있어서 앞으로의 수요는 더 커질 수 있을 것으로 사료된다. 치자적색소는 520-540 nm에서 최대흡광도를 나타내며, 이는 청색소와 마찬가지로 이리도이드 배당체를 효소 및 미생물로 가수분해한 구성물과 일차 아미노 그룹을 포함한 기질과 함께 반응함으로써 형성된다. 치자 색소는 식품 뿐만 아니라 섬유의 염색에도 우수한 천연색소로서 가치가 있다고 사료된다. 따라서 앞으로 식품에 있어서 천연색소로의 대체가 당면한 과제이며 이를 위해 식용색소로서 조건들을 만족시킬 수 있는 기술개발은 계속 이루어져야 할 것이다. 천연색소의 안정성 문제는 식품 뿐만 아니라 화장품, 섬유 염색 등 거의 모든 부분에서 제약이 되므로 추후 천연염료 (특히 치자 염료)의 안정성을 증가시킬 수 있는 품질 개발과 생산 코스트 다운을 위한 연구는 전체 천연색소 시장의 성장에 필수불가결하다.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제42권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2010

To investigate natural dyeing properties of bast fiber, properties of pre mordanting dyeing of sappan wood, gardenia and gallnut such as K/S values, developed color, and fastness were evaluated. Silk showed the most increased K/S values by pre mordanting treatment when Fe was uses as a mordant. The optimized amount of Fe was 3%. The colors of sappan wood was a series of YR. After pre mordanting treatment with Fe, the colors of bast fiber of mulberry and silk showed a series of RP, and the color of cotton showed a series of Y. The color of gallnut was a series of Y regardless of pre mordant treatment. Sappon wood (YR), gardenia (Y), and gallnut (Y) showed various colors such as YR, R, and RP, respectively. Sunlight fastness was not improved by pre mordanting treatment. The effect of pre mordanting treatment was not good. Especially the treatment with Al showed poor sunlight fastness.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2004

This study was carried out on the process of natural dye substances which can flock ultraviolet rays without producing harmful substances by pollution, germs, etc. While making human body safe in contact, extracting Gardenia, Sappan wood, Radix scutellariae, Cromwell, Mugwort, Gallnut, Lac. Those are used for curing diseases, dyeing silk cloth with those extracts, and examining the color fastness, Ultraviolet protection. From this study, the following conclusion was produced. Brightness was lower in pre-mordanting than in post. And color difference showed that Radix scutellariae was the highest. Aluminum-mordanting showed a higher color difference than Fe. Colorfastness to washing was high in all samples, and the degree of color-changing by washing was the highest in the sample dyed by gardenia, pre-mordanted gallnut showed the highest degree. Colorfastness to perspiration was the highest in gardenia. UV-A test showed that all samples a high rate of 85% or higher compared with test white cloth. Especially, post-mordanted radix scutellariae, pre-mordanted gallnut and post-mordanted sappanwood showed a superior blocking rate.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.180-189
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• 2006

Mercerization of cotton fabrics affects their various properties including physical properties and dyeing behavior. In this study, the concentration levels of NaOH solution, with 18% and 25%, and the mercerization temperature levels, $22^{\circ}C,\;10^{\circ}C$, and $5^{\circ}C$, were changed in order to investigate the physical properties and dyeing behavior using Gardenia, a natural dyestuff, and direct dyes. The effect of tension during the mercerization was also investigated. In order to investigate the dyeing behavior of Gardenia, a direct dyestuff was employed as a comparative material for better objective analysis and evaluation. It was found that the mercerization condition of 18% NaOH concentration at $10^{\circ}C$, without tension, resulted in the highest ${\Delta}E$ value, when dyed with Gardenia.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 1998

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing method : on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics with the extract from Gardenia. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absolution bands of Amur cork tree, Gardenia extract was 440nm respectively and the wavelengths 440-460nm after the mordants were added in the color extracts(The bands of Gardenia extract shifts to short wavelength side as pH increased.). In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased. 2. The main color substances in extract from Gardenia were expected to be cretin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. For silk and cotton fabrics dyeing with Gardenia extract, $SnCl_2$ was the best mordants. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5-10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by synmordanting had a greater effect K/S value. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Gardenia extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perpiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained 1 level showing without any effect.

• 공업화학
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.325-329
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• 2016

환경 친화적이고 질병을 유발시키지 않은 천연색소의 사용이 증가함에 따라 천연색소를 추출하는 다양한 방법이 연구되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 천연염료인 brazilein, crocin, chlorophyll을 포함하고 있는 식물성 원료인 소목, 치자, 쑥을 대상으로 천연염료를 추출하였다. 추출용매의 pH와 추출시간을 변수로 추출된 천연염료의 적색, 황색, 녹색계열의 목표색을 설정하고 추출된 천연염료의 명도와 색의 좌표(L, a, b)의 정량적 수치로부터 색도분석을 수행하였다. 소목의 적색소인 brazilein과 치자의 황색소인 crocin의 경우 목표색인 카드뮴 레드와 카드뮴 옐로에 근접한 색상을 추출할 수 있었다. 추출시간 20 min을 기준으로 brazilein의 경우 pH 12, crocin의 경우 pH 9에서 색차를 나타내는 ${\Delta}E^*$가 각각 18.2와 18.4로 목표색과 유사한 색의 색소가 추출되었다. 그러나 쑥의 녹색색소인 chlorophyll의 경우 목표색인 크롬 그린과는 차이를 보였다.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.142-149
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• 1991

Gardenia callus was induced in MS medium containing $10{\;}{\mu}M$ of 2,4 diphenoxy acetic acid (2,4-D), $1{\;}{\mu}M$ kinetin, and 3% sucrose in the dark. $B_5$ medium was identified to be the most adequate medium for cell growth. Indole-3-acetic acid (IAA) was better growth regulator than 2,4-D not only for cell growth but slso for carotenoid production. Ligt also played a critical role on synthesis of carotenoid. Gardenia cells grown in $B_5$ medium could utilize a polysaccharide, soluble starch, as a carbon source. The cell growth was stimulated in $B_5$ medium fortified with 0.2% yeast extract. The optimum pH for cell growth was 5.7. High density cultures can be maintained by increasing inoculum size and medium concentration accordingly. Specific growth rate and mass doubling time were 0.095 $day^{-1}$ and 7.3 days, respectively. The cell immobilized in alginate tends to formulate more enlarged vacuoles containing yellow pigment compared with those of suspended cell. Carotenoid content of immobilized cell was about $264.4{\;}{\mu}g/g$ fresh weight (F.W.) corresponding twice of the content of suspended cell ($112.08{\;}{\mu}g/g$ F.W.). The color of gardenia cell was shifted from yellow to red when carbohydrase-secreting fungus, Trichoderma reesei, was co-cultivated with gardenia cells.