• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.929-941
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• 2014

Dyeability of Indian natural dyestuffs to fabrics was investigated. Indian dyestuffs are more inexpensive than domestic dyestuffs purchased at oriental medicine stores. We studied the dyeability of madder, marigold, and pomegranate imported from India on cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Dyebaths of a combination ratio of 80:20, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 20:80 of madder and marigold, fabrics with orange colors were dyed. To evaluate the dyeability of dyed fabrics, K/S values, Munsell color values and CIE L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ were measured. The dyeability of fabrics dyed in dyebaths of pH 4 and pH 7 were higher than pH 10. The dyeability in pH 4 was better than pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with madder and marigold showed good dyeability and wool fabrics showed good affinity in madder dyebath and fair affinity in marigold dyebath. Cotton fabrics showed fair affinity in a marigold dyebath of pH 4 and pH 7. Cotton fabrics dyed with a 60:40 ratio of madder and marigold showed 4.76YR of Munsell color value. Silk Fabrics dyed with a 40:60 ratio showed 4.76YR and wool fabrics dyed with 20:80 ratio showed 5.57RY. The ratios produced the closest colors to 5.0YR of orange. This result indicated that marigold had a more powerful effect on cotton fabrics while madder was stronger on wool fabrics. Fading grades of washing colorfastness of wool and silk fabrics dyed in mixed dyebaths were higher than 3.5-4.0 and higher than homogeneous dyebaths. Staining grades of washing colorfastness of all dyed fabrics were between grades 3.5-5.0. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning was high as grades 4.0-5.0 in all of dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to light of dyed fabrics showed a fair grade of 3.5-5.0; in addition, wool fabrics showed lower grades than silk and cotton fabrics.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.299-308
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• 2015

Aim of this study is to identify dyestuff of the Dallryeong(official's robe in Joseon Dynasty, 16th century) excavated from Yuryang-dong, Cheonan, in 1996. For this purpose, extracted dyestuffs from Dallryeong fabric and from natural dyestuffs for red color(safflower, Sapanwood, Madder) which are presumed to have been used in the Dallryeong, are analyzed and compared by high performance liquid chromatography(HPLC). As a result, HPLC chromatogram of extracts of the Dallryeong's dyestuff and safflower are showed a peak at 17.5 minutes. The UV/Vis spectra of the samples are showed the maximum absorption wavelength at 519nm. This result is identical with the analysis of the previous studies on red dyestuff of safflower. In addition, the analysis of Mass Spectrometry(MS) showed the identical result of the peak with m/z 910. Following these results, excavated pink Dallryeong were considered to have been dyed with safflower.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.401-408
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• 2007

The study aims to examine consumer awareness of green fashion products and demographic characteristics by subdividing environmentally conscious consumers of such products in the current domestic fashion market. It then compares the result with the characteristics of environmentally conscious consumers studied by 1999 in order to understand the trend of the consumer group in the fashion market and to promote the use of green fashion products. Marketing strategies for green fashion products suggested by the study are as follows: First, fashion firms are required to develop and publicize shops selling recycled or second-hand clothing that environmentally conscious consumers show constant interest. For instance, clothing patterns may be developed to enable consumers to make their kids' clothing easily at home, and various garments made from recycled materials may stimulate environmentally conscious consumers' desire to buy. Particularly, advanced technologies should be developed and publicized to manufacture garments that can excel existing ones made of normal materials in their features in order to satisfy consumers' interest in clothing made from recycled PET bottles. In addition, various natural dyes should be developed to decrease water pollution. Second, it seems imperative to develop clothing made of recycled knitted apparel that attracts consumers' interest more than ever, fashionable multi-purpose clothing, and environmentally friendly materials. As the use of natural fur or leather can cause the endangerment of wild animals and the destruction of the ecosystem, synthetic fur or leather may be used to develop sophisticated products with the same texture as real ones to attract environmentally conscious consumers' interest.

• Plant Resources
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.206-209
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• 2002

This study was performed to investigate the effect of Mentha arvensis Herba extract on the treatment of chromaticity and colorfastness. Mentha arvensis Herba has been used as a Korean medicine. It is effective in headache and stress. It is also good as a aphtha and in treating cold. In the long history of Korea, dyeing has been applied for a means representing the grace of natural and inner esthetic consciousness of man. Vegetable dyes give us such great benefits, diversified color, but no pollution. And ramie fabric has distinctive features such as beautiful brilliance, elegance, and strong durability. So, it is regarded as a special product of Korea traditionally. These studies were carried out to treat with acetate iron, dichloride copper and alum with a mordant to ramie fabric. The ramie fabric was died with Mentha arvensis Herba extract. The results of experiment showed as follows: First, the chromophoric degree was the highest in acetate iron but not distinction in another mordants. Second, the light colorfastness was the highest in non treated and dichloride copper, but alum was the lowest. Third, the discoloration was alum and dichloride copper showed first grade in washing colorfastness. Abrasion colorfastness was not significant in this test. According the previous results, Mentha arvensis Herba has an efficiency in removing aphtha and in treating cold. So it is considered that Mentha arvensis Herba can be applied effectively to headache and stress.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.19-26
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• 1999

Strains degrading and decolorizing acid dyes, Nylosan red E-BL 150%. were isolated from natural system, was named as ARK3. The optimal culture conditions of temperature and pH were $35^\circ{C}$, 7.0, respectively. Growth rate of cells in conditions of aerobic shaking more than standing culture conspicuously increased, and optical density of those to strain ARK3 were found as 1.38 and 0.25 after 42 hrs. Decolorization efficiency in batch culture which used as immobilization media to natural zeolite was 15% after 6 hrs, while suspension culture was 5%, also its of immobilization and suspension culture were 90% and 85% after 48 hrs, respectively. Decolorization efficiency of air-lift bioreactor was more than 90% to a dilution rate of $0.038hr^{-1}$, but that was decreased as 70%, when the dilution rate was $0.05hr^{-1}$. Even though at maximum dilution rate of this study, there was not appeared "wash out" phenomienon of biomass. Decolorization efficiency was 97.7% at a dilution rate of $0.025hr^{-1}$, when influent dye concentration was $100mg/\ell$. But if influent dye concentration increased as $150mg/\ell$, even though MLVSS increased, that of treatment water decreased as 93%. Also, when influent dye concentration increased as $200mg/\ell$ and $300mg/\ell$, decolorization efficiencies of treatment water abruptly decreased as 85% and 63%, respectively. Decolorization efficiency was more than 92% to the limit volumetric loading rate of $3.75mg/\ell\cdot{hr}$hr, without regard to variation of influent dye concentration or hydraulic retention time. if volumetric loading rate was more than $3.80mg/\ell\cdot{hr}$, at same condition, decolorization efficiency was lower decrease of retention time than increase of influent dye concentration.entration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1057-1067
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• 2005

In the modem society, people try to represent and protect their traditional arts in aesthetic way along with the global society. The proposal of this thesis is about the fashion illustration that has adopted the folklike formative arts. 1 prefer the formative character rather then the universal character and I would like to use of folk paintings far the fashion illustration. Because the formative character of folk paintings is very expressional, we are able to draw a fashion illustration in easy, new, creative and less difficult way. The fashion illustration has to be a specialized field from the formative arts, and we need to study in a new way as well. We draw fashion illustration through the understanding of folk paintings and the study of analysis in formative. As a result of this study, we could draw a fashion illustration which is very abstract, exaggerative and simple. We also could expect the free hand drawing lines on this illustration. In these fashion illustrations, the human bodies let us fret the artists' tense, speed, and power. According to the important character of folk painting, which is the beauty of color, these fashion illustrations have expressed more color intensive. In the falk paintings there is a kind of rules to make color order, so the fashion illustrations that we drew have the bright and clear color combination. Because the folk paintings shouldn't be the artistic but should be the realistic, the fashion illustrations concentrate on the real subject. It is very natural looking that use the natural dyes in the fashion illustrations. According to this kind of art task, fashion illustration will be a certain part of the illustration in the modem society.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.547-552
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• 2005

The study has objective in raising value of the gray color as a meaningful color suiting sentiments of modern people by expressing the gray color in various perspective utilizing natural dyes that is natural at the same time having aesthetic color tones. For example, the main ingredient used for coloring black and gray color is the pyrogallol tannin and the gray tone dye can be acquired by combining the tannin with iron. In order to find the suitable condition for processing tannin, UV-Vis part absorption spectrum of Gallapple pyrogallol tannin, dye ability based on temperature and time, reflection rate based on concentration, color changes based on acid treatment and alkali treatment, changes on surface based on concentration or metal mordant condition, and lightfastness were measured. Maximum absorption wavelength (${\lambda}_{max}$) of Gallapple tannin was at around 273 nm, while strong absorption was also observed at below 350 nm. Dye ability of Gallapple tannin is done more easily on silk rather than cellulose fibers such as cotton, while the optimum condition for dyeing was observed to be at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 minutes. As a result of acid treatment, the color of dye material consist highly of gray tones and showed red tone after the alkali treatment. While it was observed that as dye concentration and metal mordant concentration increased the color changed at counter-clockwise direction on the Y-scale of Munsell's scale of colors. Lightfastness was more on a normal fading. I hope this study opens up possibilities towards presenting gray color expressed from tannin as color with diversity and aesthetic value. In future, comparative study between dye expressed from catechol tannin dye materials will be helpful.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.356-362
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• 2019

This study investigated the substantivity of anionic dyes for cationic-modified new rayon (cocell) fabric treated with cationic agent (CA), 3-(Chloro-2-hydroxypropyl)-trimethylammonium chloride (CA). We also investigate the dyeability of cationic-modified new rayon fabric after dyeing with gallut. CA was converted in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide into epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride. Treating with this epoxy reagent modified the hydroxyl groups of the new rayon fabric into the trimethylammonium group through ether linkage. The introduction of new cationic sites into new rayon fabric by pretreating with cationic agent improved the substantivity of the Gallnut dye with the new rayon dyebath. The degree of the cationization of cationic-modified new rayon and cotton fabric was evaluated by nitrogen (N) content. This study extracted the colorant of gallnut with hot water at $90^{\circ}C$ and 120 min. Cationic-modified new rayon fabric dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration of gallnut, dyeing temperature, dyeing time and concentration of cationic agent. Dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation after dyeing with gallut solution. In addition, fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The degree of crystallinity of new rayon and cotton fabric were 42.15% and 54.94%, respectively. N (%) content of cationic-modified new rayon was higher than the cationic-modified cotton. Dyeability (K/S) increased significantly with the increasing concentration of CA and gallut.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.527-533
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• 2017

As the clothing industry has advanced, dyeing technologies using various dyes have been developed. In recent years, interest in natural pigments has been increasing because of the negative impact of synthetic pigment on human health; therefore, development and application of microbial pigments is demanded. In this study, the dyeing effects on multifiber fabrics and biological activity were assessed using violet natural pigment from the marine bacterium, Microbulbifer sp. PPB12. The violet pigment produced by cultivation of Microbulbifer sp. PPB12 using Marine broth 2216 for 3 days was extracted using ethanol. Once dissolved in 20% ethanol, the violet pigment could be used to dye bleached cotton, diacetate, and especially polyamide. The optimal temperature, time, pH, and bath ratio under the dyeing conditions were $80^{\circ}C-90^{\circ}C$, more than 1 hour, pH 4-6, and 1:25, respectively. The mordant treatment was more suitable for color expression when $Na_2SO_4$ was used after 10 minutes of dyeing, but no significant difference was observed from untreated samples. The violet pigment also showed antibacterial activity against B. subtilis. The results of the present study indicate that the marine bacterial pigment could be an alternative for textile dyeing as a natural dye with antibacterial activity.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.119-129
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• 2012

Excavated textiles provide very important research data on the costume culture of the Joseon dynasty. In particular, dyed textiles are indispensable for textile conservation research and for restoration of remains as well as for general costume culture research. Unfortunately, a prolonged burial environment causes the colors to change and gradually fade after excavation. Therefore, it is very difficult to identify the original color. In this study, natural dyed samples of red, yellow, purple and blue were prepared and analyzed using HPLC-PDA. Dyes of colorants extracted from excavated textile remains were analyzed by HPLC. In addition, mordants were analyzed using (SEM-EDX) in order to estimate the original color. The 16~17th Century's three samples were analyzed, sample 1, and 2 from Eunjin Song's Song Mun-Chang excavated at the Songchon-dong in Daejeon, and sample 3 from Yeosan Song's Song, Hee-Jong excavated at the Mokdal-dong in Daejeon. From the HPLC results, alizarin, purpurin, and indigo were detected on sample 1, alizarin and purpurin on sample 2, ellagic acid and indigo on sample 3. Therefore they were dyed with madder and indigo (sample 1), madder (sample2), pomagranted and indigo (sample 3). Al mordant was identified on three samples.