Fashion & Textile Research Journal (한국의류산업학회지)

The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry (한국의류산업학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Natural Dyeing of Cationic-modified New Rayon (cocell) Fabric - Gallnut-

양이온화 뉴레이온(코셀) 직물의 천연염색에 관한 연구 - 오배자를 중심으로 -

  • Kim, Ha-Yeon (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Kyungpook National University) ;
  • Lee, Shin-Hee (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Kyungpook National University)
  • Received : 2019.02.20
  • Accepted : 2019.03.19
  • Published : 2019.06.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study investigated the substantivity of anionic dyes for cationic-modified new rayon (cocell) fabric treated with cationic agent (CA), 3-(Chloro-2-hydroxypropyl)-trimethylammonium chloride (CA). We also investigate the dyeability of cationic-modified new rayon fabric after dyeing with gallut. CA was converted in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide into epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride. Treating with this epoxy reagent modified the hydroxyl groups of the new rayon fabric into the trimethylammonium group through ether linkage. The introduction of new cationic sites into new rayon fabric by pretreating with cationic agent improved the substantivity of the Gallnut dye with the new rayon dyebath. The degree of the cationization of cationic-modified new rayon and cotton fabric was evaluated by nitrogen (N) content. This study extracted the colorant of gallnut with hot water at $90^{\circ}C$ and 120 min. Cationic-modified new rayon fabric dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration of gallnut, dyeing temperature, dyeing time and concentration of cationic agent. Dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation after dyeing with gallut solution. In addition, fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The degree of crystallinity of new rayon and cotton fabric were 42.15% and 54.94%, respectively. N (%) content of cationic-modified new rayon was higher than the cationic-modified cotton. Dyeability (K/S) increased significantly with the increasing concentration of CA and gallut.

Keywords

References

  1. Bang, Y, H., Lee, K. H., Cho, K. R., Wang, Y. S., Kim, H. D., & Cho, H. H. (2000). Fibrillation control and fine structure of lyocell fiber(1). Textile Science and Engineering, 37(12), 673-680.
  2. Cho, K. R. (2004). Natural dyestuff and dyeing. Seoul: Hyungseul.
  3. Chu, Y. J. (1998). A study on the mordanting and dyeing properties of rhusjara ica dye. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 22(8), 971-977.
  4. Guthrie, J. D. (1947). Introduction of amino groups into cotton fabric by use of 2-aminoethylsulfuric acid. Textile Research Journal, 17(11), 625-629. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051754701701105
  5. Jang, S. J. (2016). Effect of enzyme treatment on fibrillation of cellulose materials. Unpublished master's thesis, Yeungnam University, Gyeongsan.
  6. Jo, S. M. (2010). Ecofriendly cellulose fibers(lyocell fiber). Fashion Information and Technology, 7, 2-9.
  7. Kim, J. K., & Park, J. H. (2011). Planning of fashion material. Paju: Kyomunsa.
  8. Kim, I. M., Yu, M. K., & Kim, K. J. (2013). Preparation and characterization of cotton linter based regenerated cellulose fiber by dry jet-wet spinning. Textile Science and Engineering, 50(1), 25-34. doi:10.12772/TSE.2013.50.025
  9. Kim, Y. H., Sang, S. S., & Park, M. J. (2017). Dyeing and antimicrobial properties of N-containing man-made fibers nonmordanted in dyeing with gallnut. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 25(5), 648-655. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2017.25.5.648
  10. Kim, Y. W., Oh, P. R., & Kim, Y. H. (2018). Cationization of cotton fibers by polyethyleneimine treatment and its application to copper sulfide plating. Textile Science and Engineering, 55(3), 143-151. doi:10.12772/TSE.2018.55.143
  11. KOTITI. (1997). Trend of background and finishing technology of new rayon. Textile Review, 26(1), 66-70.
  12. Kwak, M. J., Kwon, J. S., & Lee, S. H. (2008). Natural dyeing of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics(II) -Gallnut-. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 10(3), 377-384.
  13. Kwak, M. J., & Lee, S. H. (2012). Natural dyeing of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics -Gromwell-. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 14(2), 311-319. doi:10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.311
  14. Kwon, O. K., & Shin, S. J. (2016). Electron microscopy for the morphological characterization of nanocellulose materials. Journal of Korea Technical Association of the Pulp and Paper Industry, 48(1), 5-15. doi:10.7584/ktappi.2016.48.1.005
  15. Lee, S. H., Kim, M. J., & Park, H. S. (2010). Characteristics of cotton fabrics treated with epichlorohydrin and chitosan. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 117(1), 623-628. doi:10.1002/app.31351
  16. Ngah, W. S. W., Endud, C. S., & Mayanar, R. (2002). Removal of copper(II) ions from aqueous solution onto chitosan and crosslinked chitosan beads. Reactive and Functional Polymers, 50(2), 181-190. doi:10.1016/S1381-5148(01)00113-4
  17. Noh, Y. J., & Lee, S. H. (2014). Natural dyeing of soybean protein fabrics -Gallnut-. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 16(3), 462-468. doi:10.5805/SFTI.2014.16.3.462.
  18. Reeves, W. A., & Guthrie, J. D. (1953). Aminization of cotton, Textile Research Journal, 23(8), 522-527. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051755302300802
  19. Shin, I. S., & Yu, B. S. (2004). Dyeing of cotton knitted fabrics with volcanic ash(II) -The dyeability change according to cationic agent treatment-. Family Environment Research, 42(4), 119-125.
  20. Shin, N. H., Kim, S. Y., & Cho, K. R. (2005). A study on using gray color dyeing from gallapple. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 7(5), 547-552.
  21. Sung, W. K., Park, S. J., & Lee, W. C. (1997). The improvement of dyeing property of cotton fabric by cationic agent treatment. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 9(1), 33-43.
  22. Woo, J. H., & Lee, S. H. (2015). Gallnut dyeing of crabyon fiber contained cotton towels. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 17(6), 1030-1038. doi:10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.6.1030
  23. Yoon, S. H., Kim, T. K., Kim, M. K., Lim, Y. J., Yoon, N. S., & Lee, Y. S. (2003). Antimicrobial finishing of cotton fabrics using gallnut extracts. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 15(6), 385-390.
  24. Yoon, S. H., Kim, T. K., Kim, M. K., Lim, Y. J., Yoon, N. S., & Lee, Y. S. (2004). The compatibility and wash durability of antimicrobial activities of cotton fabrics treated with gallnut extracts after dyed with reactive dyes. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 16(2), 111-116.