• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.34 no.5
• /
• pp.873-887
• /
• 2010

Yuan Shi Kai, the first President of the Republic of China, established a ceremonial uniform system based on ancient styles in 1914 just before the national polity was changed to the Empire of China in 1915. This system is Jisiguanfuzhi (a system on costumes for memorial services), and figures included in the system are Jisiguanfutu (figures showing costumes for memorial services). This study is the first to examine Jisiguanfuzhi and Jisiguanfutu and to approach the background idea of the establishment of the system with a focus on the meaning of 'unity.' Jisiguanfuzhi regulates the ceremonial uniform system of all classes from the President along with the 1st-class to the 5th-class people. The uniform consists of a crown, robe, belt, the mid-section cloth, and boots. In addition, the uniforms of ritual musicians and dancers are included. The basic principles in establishing the system were the restoration of ancient systems, the adoption of convenience, the acceptance of current practices, and the implication of symbolism. Jisiguanfuzhi clarifies that the pattern of the ceremonial uniforms was modeled on Juebianfu, for religious services. The reason for choosing Juebianfu for religious services was to achieve 'unity' and Juebianfu was associated with 'unity' because it was common to all, from the emperor to the gentlemen class, in ancient times. Yuan Shi Kai tried to show flexibility to the gentlemen class who represented the intellectuals at that time by adopting Juebianfu for religious services, fearing that the gentlemen class might oppose the attempt to restore the imperial system. Therefore, although Jisiguanfuzhi adopted mostly Mianfu and royal sacrificial robes, it also emphasized 'unity' by professing that the uniforms were based on Juebianfu for religious services.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.11-24
• /
• 2020

This research examines pattern production of 3 men's costumes in the second half of 19th century by 3D reconstruction to reveal technical aspects of mail costumes. The steps are as follows. First, an examination of selective type according to research study. Second, a pattern analysis of 3 historical male tops of 19th century referred to 9 pattern books of the France National Library collection. Third, a categorized type analysis that referred to paintings of the Musée d'Orsay collection. Fourth, a measurement and structure research of 3 historical garments of Fashion and Textile Museum collection. Fifth, the pattern making and fitting by 3D simulation. Research discussed the following subjects and results. First, main type of men's coat can be categorized by frac, redingote, jaquette, and veston. Second, the male costume pattern contained in pattern books was researched along with distinguished silhouettes and structures; X silhouette for frac and redingote, H silhouette for jaquette, and straight box silhouette for veston. Third, based on the analysis of representative type of men's costume per period conducted previous studies, 2 redingotes and a jaquette in the museum were selected and compared to other data such as image materials. Last, the following process was conducted for reconstruction; 'Drawing diagram-Primary pattern drafting by measurement value-3D virtual fitting-Checking the fit-Modification and complement'. We also obtained a 3D virtual reconstruction and a 2D research pattern that suggested a costume pattern by each type along with 3D reconstruction that included insights for male coat techniques of 19th century France.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.5
• /
• pp.18-34
• /
• 2013

This paper examines the costumes of 18th century Joseon dynasty that appears in the writings of Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815). The main characteristics that can be inferred about the clothing from his writings are as follows. 1) It suppose that the color of first grade(一品) official uniform was purple. The popular color for the bride's ceremonial dress was red. 2) It was likely that only bridesmaids or married women were allowed to wear Jokduri(ceremonial coronet). 3) White clothes were only preferred in Yeongnam-udo, whereas other regions mainly wore blue, which differs from the national preference for white clothes that was prevalent in the end of the Joseon dynasty. 4) Once cotton was harvested, it only took 5 days to convert it into cotton cloth and be sold on the market. Cotton cloth was one of the most important products during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty. It was common practice in markets to sell expensive costume materials as counterfeits or fungible goods with the intent to cheat. 5) The buddhist monk's hat is various that short cylinder form(短桶帽) and jade or gold headband button(玉圈 金圈) attached shape, etc. Consequently, Lee Ok's writing is a suitable reference for researching Joseon dynasty clothing, since it includes detailed and various descriptions of everyday clothing worn by strict noblemen, which is difficult to find elsewhere.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.63-75
• /
• 2004

The traditional Ukrain costume has been gradually developed and influenced by the climate and political, economical environments. The national costumes has represented the beliefs and understanding of people about the beauty and harmony of the world. Eastern Europe and Northern Asia are considered as the origins of the Korean traditional costume, and the artifacts ranged from over the Black Sea to ‘Skitai’ and Northern Asia to ‘Noinoola’ support this hypothesis. This study is investigate the formative characteristics of Ukrain national costume especially of the nineteenth century and the early twentieth century. In Ukrain, Men wear ‘Rubaha’ (shirts style's upper garment-in Ukrain Sarochka) and trousers, women wear ‘Rubaha’ with vest and a skirt and a head gear were worn. Ukrain is consisted with three group - 1) Dnipro region-included the Kiev region in the center of Ukrain, 2) Polissia region in the northwest of Ukra in and 3) Hutsul-Zakarpattia region in the west of Ukrain. These three groups have there own different formative characteristics of Ukrain traditional costume.

• Conservation Science in Museum
• /
• v.9
• /
• pp.67-83
• /
• 2008

This study is process of conservation treatment for textiles and custumes containing Jikgeum(weave with supplementary golden wefts) and Bugeum(Gold sticking) among excavated ones(including all of Sinsu751) of Cheongyeongunju (a princess) collected by the National Museum of Korea. Adhesive strength was reinforced by coating 2% solution of glue on layer of gold disintegrated in the course of depletion of gold(Au) on the surface after conducting nondestructive test(X-ray fluorescent analysis) of flat gold strip and gold sticking. To remove dust on the surface and polluted materials, dry cleaning through vacuum suction and spray-type wet cleaning were conducted simultaneously and damaged part was restored to recover the relics to original state.

• Conservation Science in Museum
• /
• v.11
• /
• pp.17-30
• /
• 2010

Here is an introduction of the conservation process and storing method of 26 garments for exhibition among the excavated garments of Cheonngyeongunju(a princess) preserved in the National Museum of Korea. Before processing, the artifacts were investigated to find out the type of material and the damaged parts, and then surface and wet cleaning were conducted. After that, it were dried and fixed while held by hand for stability of the artifacts. When stored, the artifact was folded minimally in large parts to prevent damage and placed in a neutral box with buffers in between.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.47 no.1
• /
• pp.152-170
• /
• 2023

Although ugliness had long been considered a negative form of beauty, it has become an independent aesthetic category. However, most previous art studies have focused on Rosenkranz's theory, making its application to contemporary fashion analysis challenging. Therefore, it is necessary to redefine ugliness. This study highlighted four modern ugliness categories from a modern perspective following the examination of the historical considerations of the ugliness concept, namely ugliness as a violation of taboo, ugliness as an unpleasant emotion, ugliness as a vulgar taste, and ugliness as an ethical flaw. From this perspective, SHOWstudios for fashion films were analyzed in the present study. The results of our analysis showed that ugliness in the film was related to socially sensitive subjects and stimulating images. Whereas costumes in the film were used as a tool to convey the subject and to enhance the visual effect of the image. In addition, clothing was identified as a core subject element of the video, particularly when considering ugliness as an ethical defect. This study provides further insights into contemporary fashion analysis, expanding the ugliness perspective, which had been limited to the specific perspectives of scholars.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.3 s.151
• /
• pp.458-469
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to prove that interchange is a primary factor in costume changes through case analysis in costume culture interchange, and further, to assist in gaining understanding of costume changes of the present and the future, and therefore, in this study, cases analysis was conducted focusing on interchange resulting from political factors. In order to present theories that are able to analyse costume culture interchange, culture, cultural exchange, and costume cultures were examined, and based on the results, a costume culture interchange process model and its three steps, propagation, selection, and reinterpretation, were presented. The results of case study on costume culture interchange resulting from political factors based on the costume culture interchange process model presented are as follows. Interchanges that politically uses the possibility of expressing costume as symbols are in most cases aggressive and semi aggressive. In order to exhibit superiority of themselves, the aggressors forced their national costumes onto the receiving culture. Rather than a simple introduction of their costumes, it was an attempt to introduce they values and their ways of life. The conclusion that can be reached through such result is that interchange is an important driving force for changes in costume culture. All interchanges were not greatly affected by methods of propagation and acceptance, and resulted in fusion. Fusion is a process in which existing costume and foreign costume come together constructively to for a new costume culture therefore change in costume style is inevitable.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.262-273
• /
• 2009

An investigation was conducted to know a prospect of woody toy in Korea for physical, psychological and intellectual development. It was told that toys that stimulate cognitive development are appropriate for the child's capabilities, responsive to the child's movements, provide feedback when manipulated, and require imagination or fantasy. Toys particularly useful in the development of these abilities include dolls, figures, cuddly toys, puppets, costumes, and construction toys. Therefore, a toy is a wonderful object, indispensable to physical, psychological and intellectual development, both for those who have the capacity to integrate into society and for those who encounter difficulties. If we can replace a plastic toys by a environmental wooden toys, we can contribute to child development that is especially to promote creativity, artistic, problem-solving, language and social skills. In addition, we can support the ability of wood toy manufacturers to market their products in a responsible way and contribute to strengthen the competitiveness of our commodities on international markets.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.48 no.8
• /
• pp.39-50
• /
• 2010

This study aimed to identify today's religious fashion motifs as elements for design development by examining the expression modes such as religious motifs in contemporary fashion. Methodologically, the study conducted literature review and empirical analysis of pictures and articles in domestic and foreign fashion collection magazines and other related data available on the internet and analyzed the collections of 1990 through 2009 with a focus on Christianity, Buddhism and Islam. As a result, this study identified two expression modes of religious motifs in the contemporary fashion. The first expression mode was to employ the forms of religious costumes and their associated images. The second one was to take on religious symbols and their associated images.