• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.98-99
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.67-75
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• 2007

The purpose of this research is to conserve of golden decoration(Jikgeumdan) of Chima(skirt) and Jeogori(Korean jacket) of the costumes excavated from Hangju Gi' tomb(17th Century) of Joseon dynasty$(1392{\sim}1910)$ and to focus on the development of conservation skill to prevent flakings of gold leaves in gilt paper strips. Up to the present, in case of golden decorations of costumes excavated from tombs of Joseon dynasty, some of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of costumes were flaked away by deterioration of adhesives in tombs. However, most of gold leaves were flaked away and totally lost by wet cleaning for eliminating contaminants after excavation. In order to prevent flaking, preliminary experiments for re-adhesion of gold leaves have been carried out. Firstly, simulation was performed using gold leaf which was available in the market. Adhesives used in this research were water-soluble adhesives(hide glue(cow, rabbit), glue made from air bladders of sciaenoid fish and Primal AC-3444 of acrylic emulsion) and solvent-soluble adhesives(acrylic adhesive Paraloid B-67 and B-72). Because of difficulty in wetting and spreading of adhesive solutions into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, water-soluble adhesives were not proper for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Solvent-soluble adhesives were easily infiltrated into interface between gold leaf and Korean paper and the adhesive force was also satisfied. From this result, the researchers chose more flexible Paraloid B-72$(Tg\;40^{\circ}C)$ 1% solution than Paraloid B-67$(Tg\;50^{\circ}C)$ for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Secondly, using Paraloid B-72 1% solution, the estimations of re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Jeogori were carried out. When Paraloid B-72 1% solution was injected three times into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, the re-adhesion was most effective. On the basis of the results in these preliminary experiments, re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Chima and Jeogori were carried out on condition of three times injections of Paraloid B-72 1% solution before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were survived, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.29-40
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• 2012

Using the official marker of the Korea's national symbol to inform the world of the country's existence to the global community in the $21^{st}$century enhances the autonomy and the competitiveness of Korea. It is thought that selecting a motif for promoting the national identity through cultural products or costumes can prepare an opportunity for gaining competitiveness internationally. The purpose of this study is to enhance understanding on the use of a traditional Korean symbol, Mugunghwa, and how it increases the cultural value of Korea, and develops the modern Korean image. The specific contents of this study are as follow. First, searching for the scope of usage of the national flower Mugunghwa from various angles for enhancing the Korean image. Second, developing a national symbol image of modern sense that reflects trend by using Mugunghwa. Third, clarifying the application scope and role of the national symbol image using Mugunghwa, and present a specific usage plan for creating more value. As for the study method, the study is conducted through theoretical and empirical research and six pieces of work of modern Mugunghwa image are presented as the result. Based on the development of the image of Mugunghwa as a national symbol, this study proposed a role of a cultural ambassador by applying Mugunghwa to fashion products or costumes. As for the expected effect, it can provide an opportunity for developing another national symbol and a new perspective on national symbol will appear. It is thought that the cultural value of a national symbol can be understood through this study and it can provide an opportunity for developing various national symbols for enhancing the national image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.7
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• pp.1065-1077
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• 2010

This study researchers the libretto and the original novel of the opera to propose fashion styles and stage costumes for the opera, "La $boh\grave{e}me$." This article studied the meanings of the $boh\grave{e}me$ in the 1830's France and the characteristics of the $boh\grave{e}me$ that appeared in the original novel, "$Sc\grave{e}nes$ de la vie de $boh\grave{e}me$." The characteristics of bohemian fashion styles in the $Sc\grave{e}nes$ de la vie de $boh\grave{e}me$ were not normal, not related with trends, and not new. Before presenting the new fashion styles, this study examined the stage costume problems of La $boh\grave{e}me$ with five existing performance materials. In conclusion, this study proposed new stage costume designs that reflect more dramatic fashion expressions of the characters, expression on the passage of time, and contemporary fashion records.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.67-83
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• 2011

Korean film "Swiri"(1999) as well as a popular film is the first Korean blockbuster Film. In addition, the number of viewers is very common in Korea a large ripple effect that Korea film "Swiri" in his works were selected to act as a hero and contextual significance confrontation between the two figures through the symbolic analysis of clothing styles and colors Analyzing the meaning of space and a scene in the background with the colorful costumes and would like to study. In detail, the film's central character theme and image suggesting that dramatic reversal the character's personality through the clothes I was expressed through clothing styles and colors were analyzed with symbolism. Korean film "Swiri" the film's DVD player application from the situation or story that is considered to be important psychological conflicts selected twenty-seven screens in the study were collected still images. Data collected for the effect of color contrast and color analysis technical. The center of the video footage, the film's main characters costumes and background colors of the space was to examine the significance and symbolism.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.163-179
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• 2012

Among diverse cultural types which can be shown in movie, 'Subculture' is young culture that resist to major culture. It shows its belief and identity via its own style. Their 'Subcultural Style' became popular with mass media and has been affected to major cultures. Therefore, in this research, with times background as postmodernism in end of 20th century and mainly with movie which is about sexual minorities, I analyzed categories of costumes in the movie. Hedwig's rock costume shows combined fashion with hippie, punk, glam, kitsch, goth styles from the impact of postmodernism in mid 20th century. Tommy, showed his relief and defiant intention against old generations with grunge casual and graffiti styles. After he realized Hedwig's identity and showed defiant goth rock style as a famous rocker. The band, "Angry Inch", showed dissatisfaction and cynical attitude against the American society through subculture styles. Through this research, the fact that movie costume used a tool to show human's identity and value. Also, I can see that movie costume shows times and cultural phenomenon in the end of 20th century and through this, it was confirmed that this contributes to crease new fashion style through them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1429-1441
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• 2010

This study examines the post-national trends of the $21^{st}$ century fashion that has embraced multiculturalism. This study conducted a literature view to explore the concept of multiculturalism and the background of post-national phenomena appearing in contemporary fashion. In addition, as a case study, the author used local and foreign fashion magazines and collections published between 2000 and 2009, in addition to other related materials available on the Internet. The objective was to analyze photographic materials in which post-national features are reflected. From this study, the post-national trends in $21^{st}$ century fashion that adopted multiculturalism are as follows: The first is that oriental culture is more actively embraced. In the past, the tendency of embracing the oriental culture was mainly developed with a focus on China and Japan, but recently the tendency has spread to Southeast Asian countries and national/ethnic minorities that include Mongolians and Tibetans that is present in more active ways that reflect oriental sentiment and philosophy as well as adopts simple images. Second, $21^{st}$ century fashion based on multiculturalism broadens the interest in the understanding of nations in the regions of Africa, Middle East, and South America and uses regional folk costumes or indigenous characteristics to create new things instead of staying within a fixed paradigm. Third, as horizontal transfer is involved in ways of looking at culture, $21^{st}$ century fashion shows a post-national tendency to use regional cultures and folk costumes of the occidental world that includes North and West Europe in addition to non-mainstream regions (as considered so far). Fourth, dress elements of many heterogeneous national cultures are combined to create multinational images difficult to define in terms of a specific national culture or clothing style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.1-12
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• 2008

This study begins by establishing the theory that paintings serve as a visual documentation of a particular era and record the ideal fashions and customs about dress behavior through the costumes represented in them and examines the close relationship between fashion and art, focusing on the influence of art on fashion, as well as that of fashion on art, for both painters and fashion designers. To attain the goal of the study, the selected objects of study are written references and dresses represented in paintings produced in the 19th century. Painters who were the subject of documentation created or popularized new fashion styles before the concept of 'fashion designer' was introduced in history. In order to capture and represent the ideal beauty of certain period, painters understood the important role of fashion. Their work not only included the designing of costumes or accessories for the sitters, but also the spreading of new fashion styles by showing the sitters wearing them. Study of the mutual relationship between fashion and art grew more vigorous among many intellectuals in a variety of fields beginning in the 19th century. The standing of fashion was elevated and the concept of the 'fashion designer' was introduced and the interest in the themes of a specific style or the background of a trend increased during this time period. Many contemporary fashion designers created dresses inspired by the costumes represented in paintings. The result of this study which focuses on the relationships between fashion, artist, fashion designer and art is that connection between fashion and art is closely and firmly formed. For several hundred years, painters were the creators as well as promulgators of fashion and fashion designers, from the 19th century until today, have obtained their creative inspiration from art.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.80-96
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to consider the expression of costume through the review of cinema costumes and to provide the model of cooperation between fashion and movie industry by analysis of collaboration with fashion brands in the movie . The subjects are the 1974 film directed by Jack Clayton and the 2013 version by Baz Luhrmann. Cinema Fashion was studied by analyzing the costumes of the two main characters, Gatsby and Daisy, in each scene. Gatsby's costume appeared as a model of traditional American classic suit, sensitive G-G look that symbolizes social success and traditional casual style that reflects upper-class life style. Daisy's costume expressed pastel toned luxury flapper look, oriental art deco style, and prestigious jewelry representing high class. The collaborations with fashion brands were carried out with Ralph Lauren and Cartier in 1974 film, and Brooks Brothers, Prada, and Tiffany in 2013. The value of prestige brands that matched the images of the movie was utilized, but marketing strategies for the promotion of fashion goods were not enough in 1974 version. On the other hand, in 2013 film, the effects of collaboration of the movie and fashion brands were forecasted sufficiently and marketing campaigns for promotion were performed in a various ways. The characteristics of collaborations were as follows: (1) the usage of prestige brands value, (2) collections planning and promotion using the stories of a movie, (3) the usage of multidirectional digital media, and (4) multi-dimensional promotion using entertainment factors. In collaborations with the movie, fashion brands could make cooperative relationship to produce the positive effects for promotion and prestige image strategies and draw attention of the people to the movie and fashion.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.114-115
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• 2005