• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.64-75
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• 2007

This is a project presented to obtain Master of Fine Arts degree in Costume Production. The candidate has to present 20 costume illustrations and four full constructed costumes for selected actors. At the presentation, the candidate is given 45 minutes to present followed by questions asked by the committee and audiences and it was presented and exhibited in Brookline Arts Council. The thesis consists of two parts; research and analysis on the play, and the result of the design and production for the $play^{1)}$which consists of four fully built costumes-two in chosen fabrics and the other two in muslin with full closure worn on selected actors for each character. The period for the costume design is the Elizabethan period, the actual period the play Hamlet was written in England. The play Rosencrantz and Guildenstern are Dead is a play written in 1967 from a view of two small characters from Shakespeare's play Hamlet. So the costumes of Hamlet's characters are in full period, but the main two characters' costumes will have some of modern twists.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.52-59
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• 2002

Companies desire to increase total profits. Consumer's buying behavior depends on the nature of the product just like look, touch, and feel of fabric in apparel shopping on-line with Quick Response based mass-customization. The purpose of this study is to investigate the consumer's texture sensibility from textile image under on-line environment in order to give the direction for marketing strategy in apparel ebusiness. Total 8 kinds of textile swatches representing each of 8 texture-sensibility-axes were selected for this research on the basis of finding in previous studies. The analyses of 60 questionnaires were conducted by frequency, mean, and standard deviation using SPSS 10.0. The results of this research were as follows: Under on-line environment, consumers recognized Homespun as natural, strong, and warm texture sensibility, but not as glossy, and transparent. Oxford was recognized by consumers as refreshing, and plain texture. Consumers recognized Muslin as flat and refreshing, Melton not as transparent but as warm, strong, dense, and natural, Habutae as thin, transparent, refreshing, flat, glossy, and soft, Linen as sandy, Suede not as transparent but as strong, and warm, and Terry as warm, and dense.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권1호
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• pp.112-125
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• 2012

This study researches the preferred ease of torso sloper according to body sizes and drop. For this, the eases of main body parts such as chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, biacromion length, and waist back length were analysed; in addition, the drop differences of body and pattern were explored to find out characteristics of silhouette changes. The subjects were 55 women in their early 20s (aged from 20 to 24) and individual torso block made with muslin was corrected 1-3 times by a personal fitting. There were 3 meaningful results. First, the preferred ease were individually various; however, the eases of all torso blocks should be same at the pattern making step. Second, the eases were also significantly different among body size groups and the bigger group preferred less ease at the biacromion length, waist back length, armhole-depth, chest circumference, and waist circumference. Third, the eases of chest circumference and hip circumference were significantly changed among drop groups. To change their body drop, H-shape drop adopted less ease at chest circumference and more ease at hip circumference; however, A-shape drop adopted more ease at chest circumference and less ease at hip circumference.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.106-124
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to analyze the three-dimensional (3D) characteristics and reproducibility of the effective expression of North American smocking pleats in the process of making clothes using a 3D virtual clothing system (CLO) and present a method of expression according to the types of North American smocking. In this study, lattice, lozenge, and flower smocking were produced as real smocking and 3D virtual content, and actual muslin properties were measured using a Fabric Kit and reflected using an emulator. The results of this study confirmed that a dense puckered design such as North American smocking could be expressed depending upon the internal line, fold angle, and reinforcement setting for 3D smocking. To partially apply pleats to flat fabrics, it was necessary to set fold lines. The fold line setting could be expressed by designing the internal line in horizontal, vertical, and diagonal directions according to the North American smocking design, and then setting the fold angle for each internal line. By setting fold angles of 0 degrees and 360 degrees according to the folding direction of the set internal line, the fabric was clearly folded and stable pleats were created. This study will contribute to the vitalization of the 3D virtual fashion content industry by analyzing and presenting the optimal expression method of sophisticated and complex pleats generated according to the North American smocking design pattern.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.946-957
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• 2003

This study aimed to suggest a simple and well-fitting flat pattern drafting method for a men's jacket. Four jackets in thick muslin were made from four different drafting methods utilizing a few measures as breast girth, center back length, and chest width, which were not much different from the drafting methods of woman's jacket. The appearance of the 4 jackets was evaluated by a pool of evaluators consisted of graduate students who had much clothing construction teaching experiences and their motion adaptability was evaluated by two wearers who belonged within the range of the average measures of the Korean male figure as reported from the 1997's Census for Standard Body Measure. A drafting method evaluated as the most well-fitting and well-functioning in general was chosen and modified to enhance the appearance and was reevaluated to confirm its fit improvement. As a result of this study, a new drafting method, simple and not much different from that of a woman's jacket pattern drafting method is proposed. Since this method is based on the minimal measures and ratios thereof, and is not as complicated as ordinary drafting methods for men's wear, the researcher expects that this drafting method allows more chances for the students to learn and understand men's wear more easily and comfortably.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.883-891
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• 2003

In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.215-228
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• 2020

Underlying dress forms for high coverage patterns are very important in the dress industry. Size 9 from brand D was chosen according to the analysis that it was the best option because a dress should have a large allowable range in one size. The criteria for selection were the dress form with a waist circumference of 63.50 centimeters, which is close to the standard size of women in Korea. Brassieres for dresses were included to enhance the aesthetic value of the correction process in producing a basic dress pattern. An experimental torso pattern was applied to evaluate the fit and suitability of the dress form that was also later verified in the process of the dress works. Three dresses were produced and presented on the chosen study dress form. The research procedures are as follows. First, the sell-through rates and feedbacks were collected from the dress form vendor. Second, a literature survey on dresses and a dress company investigation were conducted. Third, the amount of body dimension changes due to the use of a bra in the dresses were examined. Fourth, after the correction of the dress form, the torso pattern was made by draping. Fifth, the torso experimental clothing made of muslin material was evaluated. Sixth, the dress works of the top design were presented using the size 9 basic pattern developed by brand D.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.178-197
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• 2008

Due to the inflow of the western culture since the 19th century, female skirts and jackets have been changed considerably in detail though their basic composition was maintained. The analysis on female jackets from the start of the modern period to 1960s has been undertaken with artefacts as well as reports and research dissertations related to them. For period appraisal, analysis was divided into several periods which are from 1890s to 1910s, and every 10 years afterwards. As a result, aspects for the appraisal in each period was found. Aspects for period appraisal in modern jackets can be a change in total length and side length, a change in shape of the sleeves (from straight to round), a change in width, and a difference in closed shape of the collars. Material and color can be another aspect which shows fashionable material or new materials (man-made textile or nylon) of each period, color combination of surface and lining material as well as other parts of the jacket, use of a stiffener made with net or sheer textiles. Research using books and archives is important for the appraisal of the garment artifact. However, most of all, one should have the attitude of examining the artifacts frequently in order to achieve deeper understanding and an eye for accurate appraisal.

• 식품보건융합연구
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• 제5권5호
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• pp.11-25
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• 2019

Extraction of oil from Moringa oleifera seed using Response Surface Methodology (RSM) was investigated. Effects of three factors namely: sample mass, particle size and extraction time on the response, Moringa oleifera a volume extracted, were determined. The Box-Behnken design of RSM was employed which resulted in 15 experimental runs. Extraction was carried out in a 250 ml Soxhlet extractor with Hexane and Ethanol as solvent. The Moringa oleifera seed powder was packed inside a muslin cloth placed in a thimble of the Soxhlet extractor. The extraction was carried out at 60℃ using thermostatic heating mantle. The solvent in the extracted oil was evaporated and the resulting oil further dried to constant weight in the oven. This study demonstrates that Moringa oleifera oil can be extracted from its seed using ethanol and acetone as extraction solvent. The optimum process variables for both solvent (ethanol and acetone) was determined at sample weight of 40 g, particle size of 325 ㎛ and extraction time of 8 hours. It can be deduced that using acetone as solvent produces a higher yield of oil at the same optimum variable conditions compared to when ethanol was used.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.101-112
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• 2015

Because young men's slacks are becoming more slim-fitting today, this study attempts to identify room for improvement by comparing and analyzing the patterns of men's slacks in the literature and those of manufacturers. Selected for the study are two patterns from the literature and one from manufacturers (Slacks A, B, C); those from studies are slim silhouette pants with no tucking around the waist at the front. Subjects for the Fit tests and the pattern designs were men in their twenties with average body shapes in accordance with the figures in Size Korea 2010. Pants were made from muslin fabric and the Fit tests were carried out with three subjects and a panel of five experts to evaluate comfort and appearance. The analysis of the patterns revealed that Slacks A were the longest followed by C and then B. Slacks C had the most girth ease, and Slacks B were the slimmest in both length and girth. Movement tests showed Slacks A to be the most comfortable followed by B and then C. The appearance test found that Slacks B were the most attractive, followed by A, and then C. The fits at the front, back and sides of all three pants were more or less the same. We suggest that more studies be done on pants patterns adjusting them for proper ease and using elastic fabric in order to maintain the slim fit and also to be comfortable to wear.