Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2020.24.5.106

A Study on Reproductions of North American Smocking Design Using a 3D Virtual Clothing System  

Kim, Minkyoung (Dept. of Fashion Design & Textiles, Inha University)
Publication Information
Journal of Fashion Business / v.24, no.5, 2020 , pp. 106-124 More about this Journal
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to analyze the three-dimensional (3D) characteristics and reproducibility of the effective expression of North American smocking pleats in the process of making clothes using a 3D virtual clothing system (CLO) and present a method of expression according to the types of North American smocking. In this study, lattice, lozenge, and flower smocking were produced as real smocking and 3D virtual content, and actual muslin properties were measured using a Fabric Kit and reflected using an emulator. The results of this study confirmed that a dense puckered design such as North American smocking could be expressed depending upon the internal line, fold angle, and reinforcement setting for 3D smocking. To partially apply pleats to flat fabrics, it was necessary to set fold lines. The fold line setting could be expressed by designing the internal line in horizontal, vertical, and diagonal directions according to the North American smocking design, and then setting the fold angle for each internal line. By setting fold angles of 0 degrees and 360 degrees according to the folding direction of the set internal line, the fabric was clearly folded and stable pleats were created. This study will contribute to the vitalization of the 3D virtual fashion content industry by analyzing and presenting the optimal expression method of sophisticated and complex pleats generated according to the North American smocking design pattern.
Keywords
smocking; 3D virtual clothing; fold angle; pleats;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 10  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 Christian Lagerwaard 2. (n.d.). Retrieved May 2, 2020, from https://christianlagerwaard.com/couture/ty0x5irzrcy0fx0rlip9zvzc0k0gga
2 Dress, 1778-80. (n.d.). Retrieved May 2, 2020, from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/86882
3 Hong, E-H. (2020). Usability verification of virtual clothing system for the production of a 3D avatar reproduced from 3D human body scan shape data -Focusing on the CLO 3D program-. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 22(1), 1-13. doi:10.30751/kfcda.2020.22.1.1   DOI
4 JC de Castelbajac 1. (2014, January 16). Retrieved May 2, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2014/jc-de-castelbajac/slideshow/collection#11
5 JC de Castelbajac 2. (2014, January 16). Retrieved May 2, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2014/jc-de-castelbajac/slideshow/collection#10
6 JC de Castelbajac 3. (2014, January 16). Retrieved May 2, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2014/jc-de-castelbajac/slideshow/collection#17
7 Ju, K. S., & Jeong, Y. H. (2016). Usage & education of the CLO 3D virtual clothing program in the development office & academic. Fashion Information and Technology, 13, 51-59.
8 Kim, M. K., Choi, Y. L., & Nam, Y. J. (2010). Basic research for 3D virtual clothing simulation of traditional korean dang'ui costumes -A focus on issues occurring in the course of a 3D virtual presentation that uses the Qualoth for Maya program-. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 34(11), 1836-1843. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.11.1836   DOI
9 Christian Lagerwaard 1. (n.d.). Retrieved May 2, 2020, fromhttps://christianlagerwaard.com/couture/s7m7u5wer57ur1ds08kmmcws152jpv
10 Kim, M. K., Nam, Y. J., & Kim, K. S. (2015). A comparative study on fit and appearance for the applicability of mass customization of a 3D virtual garment system. Journal of Basic Design & Art, 16(6), 77-87.
11 Kwon, Y-M., & Kim, S-J. (2019). Research on the expression of pleats in digital fashion -Using the digital fashion design software CLO-. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 22(1), 69-85.   DOI
12 Lee, H-Y., & Kim, K-H. (2006). Analysis and production of fashion design that applies the pleat decoration. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 9(3), 123-135.
13 Lee, M., & Sohn, H. (2012). A comparative analysis of the different between CLO 3D avatar sizing and actual body measurement shapes. Journal of Fashion Business, 16(4), 137-151. doi:10.12940/jfb.2012.16.4.137   DOI
14 Bottega Veneta 2. (2006, September 26). Retrieved May 2, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2007-ready-to-wear/bottega-veneta/slideshow/collection#27
15 Nitin Goyal London 3. (n.d.). Retrieved May 2, 2020, from https://www.nitin-goyal.com/gallery-hand-crafted?lightbox=dataItem-igf447u8
16 Lee, S. Y., Kim, H., & Kang, I. A. (2011). The comparative analysis of shapes of 3D apparel CAD virtual clothing and actual clothing. Journal of Korea Design Forum, (30), 255-264.
17 Nitin Goyal London 1. (n.d.). Retrieved May 2, 2020, from https://www.nitin-goyal.com/press?lightbox=i02472
18 Nitin Goyal London 2. (n.d.). Retrieved May 2, 2020, from https://www.nitin-goyal.com/press?lightbox=i0cip
19 Nitin Goyal London 4. (n.d.). Retrieved May 2, 2020, from https://www.nitin-goyal.com/gallery-hand-crafted?lightbox=dataItem-ipjzf8in
20 Park, Y., & Choi, Y. (2013). A study on the simulation of stage costume applying CAD system. Journal of Fashion Business, 17(1), 145-156. doi:10.12940/jfb.2013.17.1.145   DOI
21 Prabal Gurung. (2010, September 11). Retrieved May 2, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/prabal-gurung
22 Shin, K., & Suh, C. (2019). A study on development of men's formal jacket pattern by 3D human body scan data -A focus on men's in their late 30s-. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 43(3), 440-458. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2019.43.3.440   DOI
23 Wu, S., Kang, Y., Ko, Y-A., Kim, A., Kim, N., Kim, C., & Ko, H-S. (2013). A study on 3D virtual clothing by utilizing digital fashion show. Journal of Korea Multimedia Society, 16(4), 529-537. doi:10.9717/kmms.2013.16.4.529   DOI
24 Chang, H., & Lee, J. (2017). A comparative analysis of virtual clothing materials using a digital clothing. Journal of Fashion Business, 21(5), 30-42. doi:10.12940/jfb.2017.21.5.30   DOI
25 Bottega Veneta 1. (2006, September 26). Retrieved May 2, 2020, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2007-ready-to-wear/bottega-veneta/slideshow/collection#26
26 Wolff, C. (1996). 패션 섬유 조형 예술 [The Art of Manipulating Fabric]. (K. H. Yang, Trans.). Seoul: Eco-Livres Publications. (Original work published 1996).