• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.554-565
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• 2016

This study analyzed expressive effects of King Henry VIII's costumes in films based on DeLong's (1988) theory. Theoretical analysis was done through a literature research of previous studies from both domestic and international. Empirical research was used as a research tool for visual media such as , , and . An analysis on movie costumes indicated that King Henry VIII's costume almost matched DeLong's (1998) expressive effect on excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy. King Henry VIII's costumes in films based on DeLong's (1988) theory expressed significant of strength and excitement in terms of expressive effects with some elegance. King Henry VIII's costumes had their expressive effects different according to the intentions of film productions, even for the identical event scenes with the same purpose. The findings of this study can be used as basic data for the research of design and costumes as well as the production of drama stages for historical dramas during King Henry VIII's reign.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.1
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• pp.83-96
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• 2001

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.56-58
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• 2001

No Abstract, See Full-text

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.88-88
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• 2001

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.59-66
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review the costume and symbolism of the English novelist Jane Austen's novel "Emma" which was produced as a movie in 1996. The novel "Emma" 's periodical background is from 1814 to 1815 in neo-classical age of costume. The English woman's costumes in 1810 were high-waisted empire style dress and redingote, pelisse, spencer jacket for going out. Man's costumes were frock coat, tail coat, shirts, vest and bottoms were breeches, pantaloons and trousers. In this literature, Harriet's naive and immature image was shown in the name of 'pretty'. Elegant and graceful way of talking and attitude was expressed in the 'beauty' of Emma. The costume is symbolically expressing the character's personality ; white is for Emma's intelligent and elegant image, pastor Elton's black suit symbolized his profession and ambitions for success. The analysis of the costumes from the movie "Emma" is following ; women wore empire dress and outer garment, redingote and spencer jacket. The fabrics were muslin, gauze, satin, lace and velvet. Men's costume were frock coat, tail coat with the shirts, vest, and pantaloons. The fabric was brown, black and dark color of wool. With an analysis of the movie "Emma", I would like to present '99 S/S collection, targeted for 21-25 aged woman by use of Emma's elegant and Harriet's pretty image as a main subject. As a second subject, I have chosen neo romantic memory, sophisticate feminine and pretty Harriet.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.150-164
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• 2021

This study analyzed the punk style shown in the movie Sid and Nancy (1986), based on a true story. The purpose of this study was to prove that the styles of the main characters had some discriminatory mode as an anti-fashion with not only the value system of the subculture but also the diverse cultural codes applied, revealing their identity. The scope of this study covered the 1970s when Sid died while a member of the Sex Pistols, but was limited to the analysis of Sid and Nancy's costumes. As theoretical background, this study reviewed the preceding studies, specialty books, movie-related sites and their postings, and on-line news reports. To analyze the movie costumes, relevant scenes on the DVD were captured, and thereby, the scenes were categorized per character and style but a performance scene was categorized Sid and Nancy as same punky wedding style because of intention spirituality to marriage by director, and thereupon, 17-cut images were used for the analysis of main characters' styles. Sid's style consisted primarily of black leather jackets, symbolic T-shirts, and jeans, whereas Nancy's style implied a punk style with added fetish styles. Even in the same punk style, their identities were symbolized through bricolage. Through this, subculture styles, were able to confirm that in addition to the value system of subculture, discriminatory modes as anti-fashion with various cultural codes played a role in revealing their identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.145-164
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• 1997

Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.648-665
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• 2002

This study is to analysis on movie costume including the personal characters, social influences and situational effects of the main heroines among the expressions of clothing through the movie, "Gone with the Wind" produced by the MGM Company in America in 1939 with the collapse of the social classes through the American Civil War as its setting. The range of this study is to look into the images of cinema costumes like the colors and silhouette related to the roles based on the movie. According to this study, first, we can see the changing process from crinoline to bustle styles by historical invastigations into clothing styles rather than the images of roles in the aspect of silhouette Scarlet of hanghty and challenging character is shawn in X-type silhouette mainly using capped sleeves and laces and Mellany of obedient and generous character, compared with Scarlet, is showing less detail effects, and is expressed in A-type silhouette of modesty and maturity. Second, there are remarkable differences of colors and details in which starlet who had the pioneer spirit used the vivid tones like red, green and black, and white laces and blades as an accent while Mellany who was considerate and soft used the dark tones like black and blue, and white and blue lace shawls And third, in images, Scarlet who was very positive in sociai activities is expressed as a elegance and romantic images in the sophisticated and modern styles but Mellany who was a good and steady housewife was shown as a elegance image in the mannish styles.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.21-37
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• 2002

The third sex implying a mismatch between sex and gender has been regarded as an extreme socio-cultural violation. In its earlier version, such a violation was expressed by cross-dressing; Women's cross-dressing was thought to invoke eroticism, while men's cross-dressing was considered comic or delinquent. However, as feminism developed more with the homosexual identity expressed openly, the third sex began to be visual. Thus, in 1990's, some homosexual monies began to develop to be pluralized enough to suggest the third sex and thereby, change the negative sex into a positive one. In this study, such a pluralization is discussed in terms of invisibility, dichotomy and androgyny. The cross-dressing movies show females in male attire or males in female attire to reflect the third sex. The cross-dressing may be divided into men's playful cross-dressing, women's political cross-dressing and homosexuals'cross-dressing or 'drag'. Gender identity is not an attribute fixed by some physical characteristics, but it tends to be changed or expanded by some social factors over time. In short, it may be a flexible, plural, individual and self-introspective attribute. Movies present diverse types of gender identities, and in particular, the movie costumes specify them. In other words, the costumes may be model means expressing the gender identities, and the gender identities shown in the movies tend to be imitated, re-created or assumed by the audience.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.130-146
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• 2017

This study focuses on the Mise-en-abyme theories of Lucien $D{\ddot{a}}llenbach$, and presents research methodology to analyze the modern cinema costume in a new view. Inherent aesthetic values of the costume code shown in the film are as follows. First, esthetics value shown is the analogic code through the maximization of factual realism by directing target. Mise-en-abyme placed in this film plays the role of costume codes, and highlights the subject by presenting specifically targeted realistic icons to maximize the realism of the movie. Second, Mise-en-abyme is deployed to the explicit text through costumes code is placed as Displaced code arrangements. In other words, each of the characters is a signifier. Symbolizing a historical era is the device that represents a self-reflective signifier. Third, paradoxically reflected by the overlapped expansion of virtual reality and the self-referential characteristics and are subject to reflect the thinking of the author. Costumes code placed in Mise-en-abyme is expressed in costumes positioned to maximize the realism in the film as described above, and implies narratives and self-reflective mediating tools that symbolism can be seen that the paradoxical metaphor for the reality and the future. In addition, through the metaphor of visual narrative is allegorical representation Mise-en-abyme with ambiguity, and it is a concrete text that can be realized in a variety of creative storytelling methods and image delivery methods of modern fashion. This study confirmed that this costumes to take the point of view of emotional $Mise-en-sc{\grave{e}}ne$ in the process of completing the film's themes and cinematic devices by identifying the roles and aesthetic value of code costumes as the core subjects that make up the narrative of the film.