• 복식
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• 제57권9호
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study is purposed to analyze the characteristics of different images of Hollywood movie costumes centering on the costumes of actresses who are the fashion leaders creating fashions especially focusing on those in 1930s. The scope of this study covers the movie costumes selected from the movies ranging from 1930 to 1939 centering on the Hollywood movies produced and released by large movie distributors and the movie costumes of heroins that exerted great influences on the culture and clothing history of 1930s were examined. As for the methods of study, visual data and image data including movies were collected through related dissertations, articles in journals, internet sites relating to movies and photos and we have analyzed each of the characteristics of the movie costumes appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, ethnic images were the reflection of orientalism that was popular in the fashion of the age with the purpose of highlighting the exotic appearances of the actresses and were the cases where the characters of the actresses had to be expressed in ethnic styles due to the spatial backgrounds of movie works. Secondly, glamorous images were highlighting the appeals of plump breasts, shoulder lines and the bodies constricted in the middle and the Hollywood movie costumes in 1930s. The smooth and flowing silhouettes of the heroins of the age were mainly long and slim patterns and female's images were expressed by highlighting the beauty of leg lines or especially by halter neck evening dresses that exposed backs and covered breasts. Thirdly, mannish images reflected tough images of males in order to further highlight the reality of the characters of the heroins of the age pursuant to the emergence of the opinions advocating the equality between men and women.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권5호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2002

The movie costumes may serve to change individuals'ego identity, shift a gender identity to another one and make multiple and plural gender identities shared. The unique identities shown in movies can influence the audience to the extent that they will imitate characters's costumes or appearance in their real life, replacing their inner, unrealizable and private fantasy with real one. The purpose of this study is to review the movies produced in 1930's and thereafter by categorizing the socio-cultural gender concepts into masculinity and feminity. Masculinity and Feminity are not attributions fixed by some physical characteristics, but it tends to be changed or expended by some social factors over time. In short, it may be a flexible, plural, individual and self-introspecive attribute. Movies present diverse types of masculinity and feminity, and in particular, the movie costumes specify them. In other words, the costumes may be model means expressing the masculinity and feminity, and the gender identities shown in the movies tend to be imitated, re-created or assumed by the audience. All in all, the movie costumes serve to take on the confrontation of masculinity and feminity between inner, unrealizable and private fantasy and external reality and thereby, expand it from internal to external issue and thus, change or reform masculinity and feminity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.583-599
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze movie costume of main character and find design characteristic and historical spirit focusing on the movie, in which Ishioka Eiko, Japanese movie costume designer constructing unique design world, participated. The study captured images of three movies such as , and with Digital Multimedia Converting System and analyzed them by focusing on the pictures showing designer's intention and design characteristic well among acquired 319 pictures. The costumes addressing movie costume designer's sense of values are recreated as future-oriented new works and are expressed as creative costumes by acquiring inspiration from past factors, dissolving them and applying up-to-date technology. Movie costume shall reflect historical spirit of our age as movie shows social cultural trend including fashion trend of manufactured age. Ishioka Eiko has searched for the design, which is proper for three principles such as 'be unique', 'be eternal' and 'be innovative' and from the result of analyzing movie costume, it is found that she showed characteristics of symbolism(transmission of the sensitivity), ornamentalism(effective representation as a decorative effect attention) and multiculturalism(harmony of time and culture) as well as uniqueness. The movie costume are different mutually and create new hybrid culture, in which different costume cultures are mixed with current costumes without the restriction to other culture. It is proper for the age of globalization and localization so it is expected that the multiculturalism will be enlarged more.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권12호
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• pp.2006-2021
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• 2010

An authentic national spirit in media (particularly films), traditional images, and color preferences is expressed through movies that are melted in local traditions. This study suggests a direction regarding the characteristics for historical costumes by examining traditional color images and cultural preference in the Chinese film (1987), a representative film that deals with Chinese history and traditions. This movie can illustrate the correlation between the temporal backgrounds and the costumes in the movie with the criteria of Eastern color systems. The results of this research are summarized as follows. First, the image of Chinese traditional colors represented in many parts of and the cultural preferences that underlies their works through the expression of traditional colors. The scenes of traditional costumes and colors express the visual embodiments of the costumes that reflect a specific status, ceremony, or ritual. Second, the traditional colors used in the movie are based on the Yin-Yang theory. Particularly, Red, Yellow, Black is mostly used for ordinary clothing. Third, there are some differences in the use of color arrangements, that change regarding the use of traditional colors according to images and situations that follow the intention of the director. Planning the color arrangements is considered an engaging connectivity between traditions and images in the movie and it is extended or reduced based on cultural preferences. Fourth, the increase and decrease of color arrangements is distinctively represented as the story of the movie proceeds.

• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.151-166
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• 2013

In order to create a national myth and be able to control international society, America with her short national history, used popular culture to accomplish these goals. The medium fit this purpose the best was the use of superhero characters based on comics. Born and developed from the 1930s through the 1960s, which could be seen as America's national crisis era, superhero characters were thorough advocates of American justice and was perfect for the role of spreading the legitimacy of American ideology. From the 1970s, superhero characters became part of movies and became even more influential through the Hollywood's massive film industry and the box office success. American ideology in superhero characters symbolically appeared in movie costumes. Starting with Superman and Batman, the very first and typical superhero characters' costumes work as metaphors for realization of American justice. After the 1980s, superheroes were newly developed through a genre called graphic novel and the most representative piece of this genre is Alan Moore's Watchmen. In the Watchmen, which was also turn into a movie in 2009, six changed superhero characters appear ranging from a non-human superhero, villain superhero, superhero with mental disorder and superhero with sexual impotency, the characters were never-seen-before superheroes with different aspects that connote introspection and philosophical ideology. The changed type of heroes and ideology became another form of heroes, and this brought changes to character costumes that were never considered before. The superhero costumes that used to symbolize America now express different types of superhero by borrowing exotic mythical elements, undressing, pastiche and daily life clothes. The superhero characters and their changes in costumes from Watchmen imply American popular culture's introspective tendency. Amongst these changes, we need to raise our critical vision towards popular culture.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.80-96
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to consider the expression of costume through the review of cinema costumes and to provide the model of cooperation between fashion and movie industry by analysis of collaboration with fashion brands in the movie . The subjects are the 1974 film directed by Jack Clayton and the 2013 version by Baz Luhrmann. Cinema Fashion was studied by analyzing the costumes of the two main characters, Gatsby and Daisy, in each scene. Gatsby's costume appeared as a model of traditional American classic suit, sensitive G-G look that symbolizes social success and traditional casual style that reflects upper-class life style. Daisy's costume expressed pastel toned luxury flapper look, oriental art deco style, and prestigious jewelry representing high class. The collaborations with fashion brands were carried out with Ralph Lauren and Cartier in 1974 film, and Brooks Brothers, Prada, and Tiffany in 2013. The value of prestige brands that matched the images of the movie was utilized, but marketing strategies for the promotion of fashion goods were not enough in 1974 version. On the other hand, in 2013 film, the effects of collaboration of the movie and fashion brands were forecasted sufficiently and marketing campaigns for promotion were performed in a various ways. The characteristics of collaborations were as follows: (1) the usage of prestige brands value, (2) collections planning and promotion using the stories of a movie, (3) the usage of multidirectional digital media, and (4) multi-dimensional promotion using entertainment factors. In collaborations with the movie, fashion brands could make cooperative relationship to produce the positive effects for promotion and prestige image strategies and draw attention of the people to the movie and fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권12호
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• pp.2039-2050
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• 2010

This study examines Queen Marie Antoinette's costumes in her portraits according to symbolic meanings and analyzes the expressive effects of Queen Marie Antoinette's costumes in the movies. The symbolic meanings through the costumes of Marie Antoinette expressed in the portraits shows the strong historical power of France in Europe along with the majestic appearance of the queen. A new perception of Marie Antoinette's taste can be found as she wore simple robe $\`{a}$ la l$\'{e}$vite in addition to extravagant costumes that demonstrated convention and position. The benevolent, extravagant, and splendid side of Marie Antoinette in history was emphasized; however, it also emphasized that she was a fashion leader with adventurous thinking and a liberal mind who accepted new things that transcend the era through this costume. The results of studying the expressive effects of Marie Antoinette's costumes as presented in the movies through the formative analysis of DeLong are as follows. The costumes expressed like this were observed through definer and the priority of observation, and it could be classified and analyzed in 4 expressive effects of excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy; in addition, it induced the visual maximization according to the flow of the movie. After the study analyzed movies about the queen through four expressive effects, the costumes were shown as excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy according to the flow of play.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1050-1063
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• 2008

A movie is a fiction made on a basis of an author's and a writer's imagination, but all sorts of properties mixed with each other and most realistically expresses the era which becomes the background of a movie and acts as a carrier that connects designers with consumers. Thus, this study was carried out to review how the fashion products that designer's intention and commercial value added are expressed in collections by comparing and analysing the costumes in the movie "The Great Gatsby" that described the life of America's upper-class in 1920s and the 04 S/S Y&Kei collection which were proceeding after getting inspiration from this movie. For this, literature materials were inspected in order to make a theoretical review on social and cultural background and costumes history background in 1920s and the photo materials on movie costume were collected and analysed using DVD video captures, as well as the photo materials on 04 S/S Y&Kei were collected and analyzed through the institute providing domestic fashion information. The following conclusion was deduced through this study. First, in 1920s which becomes the background of this study, the slim shape of Flapper which looks like a young and boy became an ideal figure condition and the straight silhouette with low waist line and the short skirt that rose to knee was popular. Second, as a result of analysing movie costume by classifying it in silhouette, colors, and materials, straight silhouette of low waistline with a near colored - tone seen in the pastel series, including white, beige, pink, and gray was mainly constituted and the metal colors like silver and gold were used. As a material, chiffon, satin, velvet, flower patterned prints, and beads were used, which represented luxurious life of women in the upper classes. Third, as a result of comparing and analysing, it turned out that there was a similarity. However, in dress collection for a heroine, some dissimilarity differentiated from a movie costumes was found out in that the dresses in collection expressed moderate beauty and modernism and elegant beauty at the same time by matching a variety of materials and using black color.

• 복식
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• 제53권7호
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• pp.125-137
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• 2003

This study is to explore the Post-modern fashion image appeared in the costumes of the movie $\ulcorner$Matrix2-Reloaded$\lrcorner$, which is believed to adapt successfully the Postmodernism ideas on screen. From this study, we can find that the movie costumes express certain formative characteristics considerably affected by the contemporary fashion trends such as Minimalism, Formalism, Futurism, Ethno-eclecticism, Asexualism. These are mostly common tendencies aroused in the complex and pluralistic circumstances of Postmodernism where many diverse values are equally regarded. Finally, the 5 trends lead to represent the following symbolic meanings with entanglement in multiplex ways, that is Virtual Reality, Mechanic Artificiality, Human Dignity, Mysticism, Multi-Culturism, and Nonsexuality to create a strong unified imagery and style in that Post-modern movie.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.163-179
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• 2012

Among diverse cultural types which can be shown in movie, 'Subculture' is young culture that resist to major culture. It shows its belief and identity via its own style. Their 'Subcultural Style' became popular with mass media and has been affected to major cultures. Therefore, in this research, with times background as postmodernism in end of 20th century and mainly with movie which is about sexual minorities, I analyzed categories of costumes in the movie. Hedwig's rock costume shows combined fashion with hippie, punk, glam, kitsch, goth styles from the impact of postmodernism in mid 20th century. Tommy, showed his relief and defiant intention against old generations with grunge casual and graffiti styles. After he realized Hedwig's identity and showed defiant goth rock style as a famous rocker. The band, "Angry Inch", showed dissatisfaction and cynical attitude against the American society through subculture styles. Through this research, the fact that movie costume used a tool to show human's identity and value. Also, I can see that movie costume shows times and cultural phenomenon in the end of 20th century and through this, it was confirmed that this contributes to crease new fashion style through them.