• Journal of Industrial Technology
• /
• v.21 no.B
• /
• pp.175-185
• /
• 2001

A numerical model is represented to calculate the reflected waves, the runup of waves and the wave induced velocities on impermeable slopes for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear monochromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results, the measured data and asymptotic results. It is found that the uprushing and downrushing of incident waves may be accurately predicted by the present numerical model. Therefore, the present numerical model can be applicable to swells as well as long waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.5
• /
• pp.484-491
• /
• 2007

Numerical experiments using a numerical wave tank have been performed to verier the nonlinear interaction between monochromatic waves and a submerged horizontal plate. As a model for numerical wave tank, we used a higher-order Boundary Element Method(BEM) based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory and CADMAS-SURF for solving Navier Stokes equations and exact free surface conditions. Both nonlinear models are able to predict the higher harmonic generation in the shallow water region over a submerged horizontal plate. CADMAS-SURF, which involves the viscous effect, can evaluate the higher harmonic generation by flow separation and vortices at the each ends of plate. The comparison of reflection and transmission coefficients with experimental results(Patarapanich and Cheong, 1989) at different lengths and submergence depths of a horizontal plate are presented with a good agreement. It is found that the transfer of energy from the incident fundamental waves to higher harmonics becomes larger as the submergence depth ratio decreases and the length ratio increases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.1 no.1
• /
• pp.1-7
• /
• 1989

Theoretical studies have been made to analyze combined refraction diffraction of the wind waves propagating on a large scale current in water of varying depth. The governing equation for monochromatic waves was derived through splitting a mild slope equation into two equations. A numerical model is developed using finite difference scheme which is computationally very efficient for modelling large area. Numerical examples concerning the interactions between waves and rip currents over a gentle slope are presented, in which the current effects on the wave diffraction in the caustic region are closely examined.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.95-106
• /
• 1999

A numerical model is represented to calculate the wave fields such as the reflected waves, the transmitted waves and the depth-averaged velocities over submerged breakwaters for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear mono-chromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results and the measured data. It is found that the submerged breakwater may be more useful for protecting the energies of monochromatic waves rather than solitary waves. Finally, the armor stability on submerged breakwater is indirectly analyzed using the hydrodynamic characteristics of flow fields.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers Conference
• /
• 1999.11a
• /
• pp.103-113
• /
• 1999

Point contact film thickness in elastohydrodynamic lubrication (EHL) is analyzed by the image processing method for the monochromatic incident light. Interference between the reflected lights both on Cr coating of glass disk and on super finished ball makes circular fringes, which are regarded as film thickness together with numbering of fringe order. In this study, we developed technology to measure the film thickness by analyzing dark and bright intensity waves which results from monochrome green light. Two typical fringe patterns only with intensity values 3re examined for the measurement of point contact EHL film thickness. We expect that this technology will give valuable clue to improve color image processing analysis for high resolution of EHL film thickness with white incident light.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
• /
• v.35 no.6
• /
• pp.677-684
• /
• 2002

In this study, a finite element model is employed to simulate the diffraction of waves caused by a change of water depths. The model is firstly applied to the estimation of reflection coefficients of monochromatic waves over a sinusoidally varying topography. Predicted coefficients are compared with those of the eigenfunction expansion method and laboratory measurements. A good agreement is observed. The model is then used to investigate effects of heights of bottom topography and number of ripples on variation of reflection coefficients of monocromatic water waves.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.53-61
• /
• 1996

This paper describes the effect of wave control using submerged flat plate by the numerical calculation and the hydraulic model test. The boundary element method is used to develop a numerical solution for the flow field caused by monochromatic oblique waves incident upon an infinitely long, sumerged flat plate situated in arbitrary water depth. The effect of wave blocking is examined according to the change of length, submerged depth of flat plate and incident angles. Numerical results show that longer length, shallower submergence of flat plate and larger incident angles enhance the effect of wave blocking. To validate numerical analysis method, hydraulic model test was conducted in 2-D wave flume with 60 cm metal sheet. Reflected waves are extracted from water surface elevation in front of the location of a submerged plate by least square method with 3 wave gages. From comparing experimental results with numerical results, efficiency of numerical analysis method by this study could be confirmed well within wide ranges of wave frequencies.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.33 no.6
• /
• pp.275-286
• /
• 2021

In this study, the analytical solution for diffraction near a vertical detached breakwater was suggested by superposing the solutions of diffraction near a semi-infinite breakwater suggested previously using linear wave theory. The solutions of wave forces acting on front, lee and composed wave forces on both side were also derived. Relative wave amplitude changed periodically in space owing to the interactions between diffracting waves and standing waves on front side and the interactions between diffracting waves from both tips of a detached breakwater on lee side. The wave forces on a vertical detached breakwater were investigated with monochromatic, uni-directional random and multi-directional random waves. The maximum composed wave force considering the forces on front and lee side reached maximum 1.6 times of wave forces which doesn't consider diffraction. This value is larger than the maximum composed wave force of semi-infinite breakwater considering diffraction, 1.34 times, which was suggested by Jung et al. (2021). The maximum composed wave forces were calculated in the order of monochromatic, uni-directional random and multi-directional random waves in terms of intensity. It was also found that the maximum wave force of obliquely incident waves was sometimes larger than that of normally incident waves. It can be known that the considerations of diffraction, the composed wave force on both front and lee side and incident wave angle are important from this study.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
• /
• v.20 no.A
• /
• pp.139-148
• /
• 2000

A numerical model is represented to calculate the wave fields such as the reflected waves, the transmitted waves, and depth averaged velocities over submerged breakwaters for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear monochromatic wave. The numerical model is correctly formulated by using both the finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction and the explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference scheme, also satisfactorily verified by comparison with the other results. The behaviors of reflected and transmitted waves with respect to geometric parameters of submerged breakwater such as the slope, crest depth, and crest width are numerically analyzed in this study. In particular, the reflection and transmission coefficients are quantitatively calculated as the function of geometric parameter of submerged breakwater. It is found that the crest depth among parameters related to practical design may be the most important parameter in designing the submerged breakwater. Therefore, the effective and economic performances of submerged breakwater should be depended on the determination of optimal crest depth.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.158-168
• /
• 2001

A numerical model based on the wide-angle parabolic approximation equation is developed for the accurate simulation of the directional spreading and partial breaking of irregular waves. This model disintegrates the irregular waves into a series of monochromatic wave components, and the simultaneous calculations are made for each wave component. Then, the computed wave components are superposed to get the wave height of irregular waves. To consider the partial breaking of irregular waves in the computation the amount of energy dissipation due to breaking is estimated using the superposed wave height. The accuracy of the developed model is tested by comparing the numerical results with the experimental measurements reported earlier. In the case of non-breaking waves a considerable accuracy of the model is observed for both regular and irregular waves. On the contrary it is found that the accuracy is significantly degenerated for the case of breaking waves. Some analyses for the accuracy degeneration are presented.