• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.5
• /
• pp.61-77
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate difference and likeness on the form in women's Hanbok between the later Chosun Dynasty and modern times based on Belong's observing system for 'Apparel-Body Construct'. Belong's framework is composed 5 pairs of contrast word -'Closed or Open', 'Whole or Par', 'Planar Separation or Planar integration'. 'Flat or Rounded', and 'Determinate or Indeterminate'. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, the form of women's Hanbok in later Chosun Dynasty is 'Variably Closed', 'Part' and 'Rounded', whereas that in modern is 'Open', 'Whole' and 'Flat' Women's Hanbok of modern is lesser convex, and more open than that of later Chosun Dynasty according to increasing use of transparent textiles. Moreover, in comparison with old style, that of modern has the tendency of perceiving primarily whole feature by organic linkage of parts. Because of loose fit of Jeogori and rigid DongJong etc, characteristic of 'Plat' strengthened in modern Hanbok. Secondly, women's Hanbok in the later Chosun Dynasty and modern has common properties of 'Planar Seperation' and 'Determinate'. Women's Hanbok belongs to 'Planar Seperation', because the effect cognized to figure and ground. can be found between small parts and whole of Jegori, or can be found between the head and face. Jeuori and waist band, and Chima and under ware. Further more. it can be classified into 'Determinate'. because it use textiles which have no pattern un it or which show a subtle surface effect by texture changing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.10
• /
• pp.100-117
• /
• 2010

This thesis has three main purposes: first, will show kinds, patterns, types, expression techniques of modern korean women's trimmings by every ten years. Second, it is to trace the effect of each decade on women's Hanbok trimming designs. Third, it will point out factors. that caused the change of modern Korean women's Hanbok trimming design patterns. Henceforth, there comes the result of the research and analysis. Trimming design patterns of modern women's Hanbok can be divided into three categories temporally: The first period of from 1910s to the first half of 1950s saw that design patterns did not changed much from traditional ones. It is because there were many catastrophes such as the invasion of Japanese Empire and Korean War. The compound design had expressed people's wish to earn many sons and babies at the end of Joseon Dynasty. But it turned to wishing luck for individuals affected by individualism and liberalism imported from the west. Realistic designs are the most frequently used and the least lines made up patterns. The second period of from the latter half of 1950s to 1970s saw that women wore their Jeogories and Chimas as suits. Screen printing technique enabled for various design patterns to come out. And the development of textile industry introduced various expression techniques such as making lace, meshing, flocking, burn-out etc cetera. The third period of 1980s saw that Hanbok became a kind of luxurious clothe as people's living standard rose. Hanbok again came into the spotlight, Hanbok designers came forward and their individualities are respected. The characteristic expression technique of grey-dying and geometric design patterns are more frequently used for the simple and modern beauty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.30 no.5
• /
• pp.631-655
• /
• 2022

Modern Hanbok tends to use new colors based on traditional colors and their symbolic meanings. In addition to the traditional colors, various expressions have been increased, it is necessary to consider the color and color trend used in modern clothing. This study focused on the period 2011 - 2020 and analyzed the main color and coloring method of top and skirt by year with 450 data from a total of 81 wedding magazines. The results of examining the characteristics of traditional colors during the target period are as follows. First, the main color of the Jeogori showed a distribution of various colors in the first half, but the main color of the skirt concentrated on black, white and light pink in the second half. Second, while the use of blue and green systems decreased, Dang-ui color changed to warm yellow, green, and red systems. The Baeja used plain dark white in the first half; however in the latter half, they changed to white or accented colors. The one-piece used various colors in the first half, but only black and white appeared in the second half. Third, in the upper and lower colors of Hanbok, the blue-red color, the traditional contrast color of the first half, decreased significantly in the second half. The appearance rate of proximity for the complementary color harmony of white-red color and the adjacent color harmony of white-blue increased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.8
• /
• pp.1378-1385
• /
• 2001

Textile The purpose of this research is to develop the design for activation of women s hanbok focused on functionality and convenience as well as on keeping the traditional beauty, and then to produce them. As a result of these explorations, I have reached conclusions as follows. first, the transformation of jackets and skirts are mainly limited to partial change in elements of the dress design-width and length of a jacket string and the upper strip on the outside of a jacket, change in width, and granting of symbolic meaning. Second, aesthetic features and formative beauty of traditional hanbok that the harmonization of mainstream colors and highlighting colors and curved silhouettes evoke were mental by products created as our people wished to become friendly to and to harmonize with nature. Third, grounded upon study of lines form and survey on brands, I have developed designs that maintain hanbok’superiority and at the same time incorporate functionality and convenience to fit modern life. I believe that the outcome of these of these explorations will contribute greatly to carrying the traditional beauty of Korean dresses to the maximun, and to developing and popularizing functional and practical living-fitted Korean dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.8
• /
• pp.149-165
• /
• 2012

This study is to understand the characteristics of women's Hanbok fashion in the modern Korea by investigating the features of colors and color arrangements of remaining relics. The summary of findings from the researches and analysis from over 1840 pieces of Hanbok relics in modern Korea are as follows: First, since western-style cloth were introduced and utilized for Hanbok from 1960, the number of colors have drastically increased. However, the most commonly used colors and parts throughout all the periods remained the same. These are Y, R and white colors for Jeogori and Y, R and PB colors for Chima. And, as for the representative color of each of the six periods, significant changes of color were found Jeogori in the 1960~1970s. While no clear color changes were found in the period prior to the 1960s and after the 1980s. Secondly, as for the color tones, although the high luminosity-low chroma were generally used over the periods, it was observed that various colors of low luminosity-high chroma began to be used from 1960 and so Jeogori became more colorful. And lastly, Y and white color were taking up the highest percentage in the solid color arrangement. When composing 2 colors, the Y tone color dominants with R tone as sub-color was the most prevalent, and when 3 and 4 colors were combined, the extra color were increasingly seen in the upper garment cuff and collar so that the arrangement of different colors increased the aesthetic symbols when combined with the colors of the Chima.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.4 s.113
• /
• pp.45-60
• /
• 2007

Characteristics of Hanbok's traditional coloration have been carried on, based on social/cultural background of the past. Today, Hanbok is classified as traditional Hanbok, improved Hanbok, living Hanbok. Their designs, materials and colorations show significant differences. In this study, first, we have categorized and arranged the coloration trend of the women's Hanbok according to the types of coloration since 2000s. Secondly, Hanbok is classified as traditional Hanbok, improved Hanbok, and living Hanbok. And then examining their coloration trend and coloration characteristics of different types of Hanbok, so we can find the purpose far increasing understanding of various color beauty and coloration of today's Hanbok. The findings of this research are summarized as follows; 1. Traditional Hanbok coloration is influenced by the modern rotor and tone, and is apt to show the trend of emphasizing individuality. 2. Hanbok coloration of middle period in 2000's has become to use high value and chroma, giving more bright and luxurious impression then the early period. 3. For this study, we have categorized the total of 277 women's Hanboks by their coloration trends, through studying traditional Hanbok catalogues that enclosed vividly colored pure silk samples. As a result, it shows the order of contrary coloration(149), tone on tone coloration(56), similar coloration(23), monochrome coloration(20), tone in tone coloration(17), and 화학섬유chrome coloration(12). 4. Traditional, improved and living Hanbok show differences not only in their designs or materials but also in colorations. Using of traditional coloration is applied to traditional Hanbok and improved Hanbok in that order, and mostly the value and chroma of living Hanbok colorations are low, which emphasizes easiness to move and practicality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.14
• /
• pp.99-117
• /
• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.15-29
• /
• 2015

Apart from keeping the body pleasant and protecting it from the environment, the purpose of clothing is to express one's sensibility, sense of belonging, status, and aesthetic sense. In the past, hanbok was also used to express status and class with the colors and the types and according to the times, the forms of hanbok has changed. Nowadays, people choose and wear hanbok that suits their tastes or purposes and various types of hanbok that considered pros and cons of it are now disseminated. Given this reality, traditional shrouds that are worn by the dead should also be designed newly to fit the modern trend. This research aims to analyze how people's sensibility preferences change on the traditional shrouds and the modern shrouds that are designed to fit the current trend. To see the change, this research analyzes sensibility preferences by using Semantic Differential Method on 4 modern shrouds that are used in preceding research and 1 traditional shroud. The survey was answered by total of 130 ordinary people in groups of 26 people in 5 groups who reside in Seoul and Kyungkhi province. As the result of the analysis, firstly, people preferred "high quality", "elegant", and "Korean" sensibility words for modern shrouds 1, 2, 3, and 4. Secondly, on traditional shroud, "uncomfortable", "neutral-elegant", "neutral-Korean", and "neutral-quality" that is closer to low quality sensibility words are preferred. Thirdly, "modest" and "extravagant" did not show any statistically significant difference. I hope this research can provide basic data that can be used to understand and comprehend on people's sensibility preference about shroud designs.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.25 no.4
• /
• pp.33-44
• /
• 2022

Rental services have recently come to be provided in which people can experience traditional Korean culture in the form of Hanok villages, allowing everyone can easily rent and wear hanbok, a traditional Korean garment, regardless of gender and age. Users of hanbok rental services share photos of themselves wearing hanbok on social media, contributing to the increasing popularity of hanbok experiences. However, the trend of wearing hanbok has no become established in people's daily lives, apart from the specific places that offer hanbok experiences. To promote hanbok as everyday clothes, hanbok design should be developed to provide wearers with both convenience and emotional satisfaction. Using 28 emotion words that express consumers' emotions toward hanbok that were extracted from previous studies, this study measured consumers' emotions toward different types of hanbok with on a seven-point Likert scale. Emotion words and categories that obtained scores of five points or above, signifying a rating of "felt fairly" or higher in relation to specific hanbok types were extracted. This study also examined differences in the average scores for emotional categories according to hanbok types and gender. The results indicated that only average scores for the "favorable feeling" category showed a significant difference between men and women. Finally, differences in the average scores for emotional categories were examined by classifying hanbok types: traditional (e.g., baenaet-jeogori, saekdong-jeogori, traditional hanbok for adults, and traditional wedding clothes) and modern (e.g., daily hanbok for children, for women, and for men). The results indicated significant differences between traditional and modern hanbok in six emotional categories (i.e., the cheerful, esthetic, harmonious, fresh, favorable, and stable feeling). This study derived analytic results for terms related to emotions that hanbok wearers feel according to types of hanbok. The findings can be used by hanbok retailers and rental services to provide consumers with greater emotional satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.47 no.4
• /
• pp.593-608
• /
• 2023

This study attempted to classify the types of perceptions of the new Hanbok, focusing on female college students in their 20s, and to analyze the characteristics of each type. This study was conducted with the Q methodology and analyzed with the QUANL pc program. The perceptions of the new Hanbok among female college students in their 20s were classified into four types: Type 1: modern/practical, Type 2: convenient/practical, Type 3: temporary/accessible, and Type 4: convenient/traditional. Type 1 emphasized the selection of Western clothing fabric, matching zipper/buttons, and achromatic colors. Type 2 highlighted a design that can be worn as daily clothing by combining materials that are convenient for laundering. Type 3 stressed the operation of new Hanbok rental stores so that it is easy to access and accept new Hanboks in old palaces and Hanok villages. Type 4 required the development of a design that reflects the elements of the traditional Hanbok and is convenient for activity and laundering.