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A Study on the Symbolistic Characteristics of Costume -on Modern Costume(1880~1910s) and Contemporary Costume(1990s)- (복식의 상징주의적 특성에 관한 연구 -근대복식(1880~1910년대)과 현대복식(1990년대)을 중심으로)

  • 김현주;김문숙
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.277-294
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study is to examine characteristics of symbolism as an important trend of the end of centuries, by comparing the symbolic characteristics from two periods, modern(1880∼1910s) and comtemporary(1990s), based on the typical characteristics of symbolic art by Robert R. Delevoy. Af for the study method, the contents analysis is adopted to present an objective data analysis and interpretation accompanied by theoretical approach through literature survey. Delevoy classifies symbolism into three categories such as mysticism, eroticism, and decorativeness. This study is developed based on the Delevoy's three categories. symbolistic costume reflecting systems of the society and the phases of the times, became to contain all aspects of functional, symbolic, and practical. Especially, the costume I contemporary era adopted a new approach, philosophical factors controling human's sensibility, and a sincere and analytical attitude on progress of technology. This study provide the fact that costume is a part to create aesthetic of self-expression as a field of formative art. Contemporary costume allows vital power for daily life of human by pursuing new aesthetic value, and it expresses inner world of human and moves on future-oriented to regain humanity. The symbolistic characteristics will continue to influence varous aspects of our society and play a main role in shaping the purpose of fashion design in the 21st century.

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Characteristics of fashion figure in contemporary fashion (현대패션에 나타난 패션 피규어의 특성)

  • Kim, Sun Young
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.22 no.4
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    • pp.565-578
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    • 2014
  • This study is about the cases in fashion figure appearing the contemporary fashion and their characteristics. The work aims at providing a further active research opportunity for fashion figure in the modern fashion field and finding several possible utilizations to help the overall fashion industry through examination. Research methodology was followed up with the related literature review and empirical work through the case study of multiple fashion figures denoted in the contemporary fashion. The results showed in the following way for types of fashion figure in the modern fashion. The first type is that its figure was used for stage apparatus in fashion collection, various properties, or garment tool as doll shifted to a certain object. The second type is that art toy or fashion doll was used as specially added product via way of cooperation with fashion brand to be applied as fashion figure alone or other properties for T-shirt or something like that. The third type is the case that multifariously sized figures were applied to show window or shop display. This type of fashion figure is basically an imbedded fashionistic feature, reflecting the rarity, publicity, playfulness, and artistic value.

A Study on S.I.P(Shop Identity Program) Design method Task in Multi-used Shopping Complex. (복합상업공간의 점포 정위화 전략의 디자인 방법에 관한 연구)

  • 하재경
    • Journal of Korean Society of Industrial and Systems Engineering
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    • v.19 no.37
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    • pp.127-136
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    • 1996
  • Due to the development of technology, urbanization, industrialization, etd. at modern times, even the individual view of value has changed in variety. That means the change of each consumcer's life-style and even that of propensity to consume. In that regard, the modern, commercial space became to be increasingly included to specialization and complication. Such specialization and complication of the commercial space can be thought to be a positive response of enterprises to satisfy the needs or desire of consumers who become diversified. In this study, some new models in the method of the planning and designing of the S.I.P(Shop Identity Program). intended to research into as follows ; - As the background of the advent of the multi-used shopping complex, changes in consumer life-style and propensity to consume according to social and economical changes were intended to be studied through various statistical data literature. - For the study of the characteristics, constituent conditions, and planning operation of the future multi used shopping complex in the marketing aspect of enterprises, it was intended to study centered on the theory of consumer behavior and that of retail marketing. - In the process of the spatial design of the multi-used shopping complex, it was tried that a designing process to materialize a target of the discrimination and orderly arrangement of stores be progressed. In the process of materializing a target based on both corporate image and 'brand' image in designing.

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A Historical Study on the Specifications of Traditional Handmade Roof-tile (전통수제기와 규격에 관한 고증 연구)

  • Jo, Sang-Sun
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.21-26
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    • 2014
  • The purpose of this study is to retrospect the establishment process of specification of modern factory-made traditional Korean roof-tile. Its another purpose is to analyze the specification of watong(瓦桶, a wooden molding frame for roof tile making) which is recorded in the literature of Joseon dynasty. The results of this study are as follows. : First, the specification of modern factory-made Korean roof-tile that currently used was established in 1978. And it did not succeed old traditional specification. Second, in case of construction or repair of main building of palace, it was a principle to use Daewa(大瓦, the big size roof-tile). And Sangwa(常瓦, the ordinary size roof-tile) was used when needed. Also, Jungwa(中瓦, the middle size roof-tile) was used regardless of the size of group building. And Sowa(小瓦, the small size roof-tile) was used in house and wall of royal tomb. Third, it is needed to establish a specification of traditional handmade roof-tile based on the specification of watong through research of the litterateur. So, a standard draft for this was proposed. Finally, one can find the significance that this study has tried to find a specification of traditional roof-tile that can be applied to construction or repair of cultural heritage.

A Study on Space Embodiment of Supermodern Fashion Design (슈퍼모던 패션 디자인의 공간성 구현 연구)

  • Kim, Wan-Joo;Lee, Keum-Hee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.16 no.6
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    • pp.1064-1075
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to grasp the change of modern space concept and analyze how to adopt and embody the change in modern fashion. The study researched wearer's costume space and analyzed space shown in supermodern fashion design by classifying it into response to non-space, allowance of wearer-based space, scientific space of architectural skill and embodiment of space image. As a study method, literature and study material of sociology, anthropology, fashion sociology and design field were referred. For picture data of supermodern fashion work, specialized book, designer, brand collection material and internet site pictures were collected and analyzed. The study result shows the following features of fashion design space embodiment corresponding to the change of supermodern environment. First, supermodern design secures closet space like pocket for portable objects and uses design space in order to provide the space for convenience of movement. Second, supermodern design creates wearer-based independent space in order to secure person's physical and mental stability in city environment. Third, supermodern design uses space scientifically from the aspect of detail and shape by applying space of architectural skill to space. Fourth, supermodern design shows aesthetic feature that embodies interpretation of space by conceptualizing space image and using fashion.

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Adolescents' Fashion Reflecting the Features of Modern Adolescents -Focused on 「SPORT&STREET」 from 2001 to 2006- (현대 청소년 특성이 반영된 청소년 패션에 관한 연구 -2001-2006년 )

  • Chun, Jae-Hoon;Ha, Ji-Soo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.1
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    • pp.65-70
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    • 2008
  • The objectives of this study are to forecast the pattern of adolescents that will appear in the future and to contribute to the creation of the fashion styles that meet their tastes. This study analysed the relationship between the features and the fashion of modem adolescents through a comprehensive perspective. And it was focused on a literature study and empirical study. Specifically, for the fashion style of modem adolescents, the study conducted an empirical analysis of the styles shown in pictures selected around key words out of a total of 21 volumes of ${\ulcorner}$SPORT&STREET${\lrcorner}$ from 2001 to 2006. The fashion style of modem adolescents is developing into a different pattern from the past, and by theme this can be classified into sports style, jeans style, romantic style, vintage style, hip-hop style, future style, humor style and ethnic style. The features of modem adolescents, including collective conformity, personal expression, and receptiveness to new concepts, were expressed by unique fashion styles. It is necessary to create a fashion style that modem adolescents, who have diverse tastes and dispositions and are living in this rapidly changing society, can enjoy it by understanding the nature of their features, such as collective conformity, personal expression, and reception to new concepts.

The Power Images in the Style of a Leader: Expressive Characteristics for the Power Images on the Portrait of Henry VIII (리더의 스타일에 표현된 권력이미지: 헨리 8세의 초상화에 나타난 권력이미지의 표현특성)

  • Kim, Mikyung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.17 no.5
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the power images in the style of a leader: through the focus on the portrait of Henry VIII. Study methods on the literature concerning viewpoints of power and image in the early modern age and the subjects of power are being used for theoretical backgrounds; and the visual data from National Portrait Gallery, British Library and the internet are used for exploratory studies. The results of this study are as follows. First, from the style of Henry VIII who represented the image of political power, the modern political phenomenon can be defined. Such phenomenon which displays images of political leaders from the study indicate an effective strategy. Second, the religious, a diplomatic representation for the style of Henry VIII powers, such as costume style and somatic visual images, represents the dignity and power by delivering visible internal attributes. Thus, the role model recognized by the society and the public's perception of leadership style affects the acknowledgement and belief by the people.

Characteristics of the Grunge Look in 21st century fashion (21세기 패션에 나타난 그런지 룩의 표현특성)

  • Kim, Sun-Young
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.19 no.5
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    • pp.957-969
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    • 2011
  • This study intended to analyze the grunge look as a mode of expression and as a characteristic of the fashion of the 21st century, arguing that the look expressed not only an outward appearance or sub-culture but also a change in our attitude and spirit about contemporary fashion. In the study, I carried out an empirical analysis focused on the collection from 2001S/S to 2010F/W and a literature review. In my results, I classified the grunge look into the following categories: 1. mix and match layering; 2. patchwork, collages, and assemblage using all objects as well as clothing materials; and 3. distressing techniques, such as bleaching and dyeing, unweaving, and tears and holes. I also classified the characteristics of grunge into the following categories: 1. conspicuous destitution, which is intentionally expressed by skillful techniques and craftsmanship, indicating that modern people want to attract attention and be distinguished from others, which reflects an attitude of superiority through ironic fashion choices; 2. high lighting the dissolution of decoration, where destruction, poverty and recombination shown in the grunge look emerged as an artificial and intentional ugly aesthetic in contrast to the existing elegant and sophisticated image; and 3. satire and playfulness, as grunge expresses alienation and conflict in modern society through satire and sarcasm, not attacking or avoiding, but through playful and sarcastic engagement so as to decrease poverty and give temporary freedom.

A Study on the Modernity of Korean Architecture appeared in Yi Sang's Early Poems (이상(李箱)의 초기시에 나타난 한국근대 건축의 '근대성'탐구)

  • Jung, In-Ha
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.8 no.1 s.18
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    • pp.63-80
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    • 1999
  • Poet, Yi-sang, born in 1910, originally studied architecture in Kyeong Sung High Technical School. He also experienced an architectural practice in Chosun Chongdokbu (the Government office of Japanese empire in Korea) during 4 years. After resigned the post of architectural engineer in 1933, he became a man of letters. Until his death in 1937, he published the writings hard to understand, which remind us of the works of western avant-garde. Because of the peculiarity and difficulty of his poem and novels, he becomes the object of studies by many critics and historians of literature. And he is estimated as the representative of Korean modernism. This study tries to related Yi-sang's early poems to architectural discourse for the search of 'modernity' of Korean modern architecture. His early poems, which is published in from 1931 to 1933, are worthy of notice because they contained a acute shock derived from radically changed spacial structure, the absolute emptiness of the individual happened in the 1930's Seoul. They also show a different attitude from the writings of Park Dongjin and Park Kilryong, the architects contemporary with Yi-Sang. Compared with their writings, Yi sang's early poems had an insight into the totality of modern culture like western avant-gardes. Therefore Yi-sang's early poems can give us a good base to understand the characteristics of 'modernity' of Korean architecture.

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A Study on the Danryeung Pattern Method - Focusing on the 5th Joseon Dynasty - (단령 제도법에 관한 연구 - 조선시대 5기 단령을 중심으로 -)

  • Chang, Min-Jung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.159-174
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    • 2017
  • It is very important to preserve the form of traditional costumes and to set the prototype for the design and production of various Korean costumes. This study therefore attempts to analyze the Danryeung pattern methods in textbooks in order to propose a prototype of Korean costumes and a system suitable for modern men, focusing on the Danryeung of the Joseon Dynasty. The research method examined the flow of the Danryeung system in the Joseon Dynasty through previous studies and literature, and the portrayal of the appearance of people of the time through portraits and paintings. The purpose of this study is to analyze the measurements and patterns of textbooks' Danryeung based on the analysis of characteristics of the 5th Joseon Dynasty. From that, the study will analyze the differences between textbooks and artifacts and will propose a Danryeung system for the body shape of modern males in their 30s. In this study, it is meaningful to propose the guideline for the design modification of Korean costumes by providing basic data for subsequent productions.

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