• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.72-86
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• 2002

Recently the fashion design has been expressed mixing trend of antipodal concept. There are shown disorganization of existing standard with eclectism, pursued more sensational fashion by the sense of unease. And there are spreaded body exposure in producing on a commercial scale for sex, are shown the phenomenon by wearing innovation inner-wear in private area are exposed out. The purpose of this study are to consider preponderantly the fashion design using corset, shown up as the motive of costume design from 1990's to 2002's, define the character of molding. and extend the width of understanding of modern fashion. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The trend of deconstructionism as one line of fashion world in the 1990's make into outer garment of inner-wear, corset has been using the main item of infra costume. The past corset was existed innerwear, but it is revived various forms by transforming outer garment of body expression consciously. 2. Corset look is shown double faced factory of the beauty of tradition and decadence, vulgarity and nobility, concealment and exposure, and are expressed boldly the free consciousness outer about woman's sex with the improvement of woman's social position. 3. The molding character of Corset look divided Eroticism, Fetishism, Deconstructionism. Futurism. The trend of Corset look design is the emphasized sexual part of lace-up and cutting line of corset, and various details of see-through, kitsch, glitter look. Therefore, the trend of Corset look will be applied the modern fashion and used as motif of new design, affected the inspiration of more developed design with grafting of up-to-date fabrics and processing technique.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.55-70
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• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is to suggest the new orientalism fashion through the comprehensive approach to analyze the art of the Tang dynasty, China. Tang dynasty has high culture, economy, polity and art. Also the character of Tang's culture is very international. Therefore that point is coincide with fusion culture in the early 2000's. As a method of accomplishing this research, the documents and fashion magazines related to the art and fashion were examined. Through analyzing the art in the Tang's related to fusion culture, reach a conclusion that the modern fashion has four characters. 1. The cause of high culture and economy, the trend of fashion was decorative 2. The cause of realism, the trend of fashion were modern and simple. 3. The cause of rhythmical line, the trend of fashion had natural drape. 4. The cause of globalism, the trend of fashion mixed east with west This research keep going for showing new orientalism and coinciding with 21th century's trend.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.513-524
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to trace the development of Chintz pattern design through fashion history, and to focus on its application in modern times with special emphasis on filtered Chintz patterns. Chintz patterns use such motives as tree, animal, bird, and geometrical shapes, etc.. It reached the peak of its popularity with William Morris. His influence continued from the end of the 19th century through to the 20th century. Modern Chintz designs have been modified and diversified in different cultures through time, and such diversification & changes can be easily found in modern fashion. From previous studies and other related sources, we found that Chintz patterns were revived in modern fashion trends with some modification. We also discovered the importance of chintz pattern designs in ethnic and retro trends. Thus in conclusion, this study revealed the significance, flexibility, and lasting popularity of Chintz pattern designs in fashion history.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.83-100
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• 2009

In the 'Society of the Spectacle', Guy Debord argued that modern life was dominated by the commodity form and the false desires it engendered. He predicted in 1967 that culture would become the driving force in the development of the economy by the end of the century, He was sure when culture becomes nothing more than a commodity, it must also become the star commodity of the spectacular society. Fashion, the starriest of star commodities with its seductive fantasy approaches to the viewers occluding the commercial reality. From this point, the spectacular property of the modern fashion can be found. This study starts on the notion that the modern fashion is on the center of capitalist consumer culture and is constructed by spectacle. On this premise, the purpose of this study is analysing the attribute of 'spectacle' and 'keeping distance ￡Tom spectacle' in modern fashion expressed in fashion show, fashion media and fashion store. The fashion houses in the 1990s that recognised the commercial value of shock and spectacle were eager to employ young spectacularly visible named designers. They generated the publicity necessary for sales of perfume, cosmetics, bags and diffusion range of clothes through the visible fashion show and fashion media. In the fashion show and fashion media, fashion goods as the commodity both flaunts and disguises its commercial nature in spectacle. The spectacle on the fashion store is the process turning the commodity into image to arouse viewer's higher interest. In the fashion store, the appearance of the commodity such as space, display, package is considered more importantly than its 'utility value'. Meanwhile, the study also covered the innovative trial to evade the ubiquitous 'spectacle' in fashion area.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.670-683
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• 2006

Such trend offers new fashion designs as a formative art with creative spontaneity. The purpose of this study is to seek to work out fashion design methods whereby fashions can be developed into an art form embracing handicraft premium textures, geometric formativeness and traditional beauty so as to satisfy the individualist expression desires of modern people who pursue practicality, originality, and beauty of simplicity. This art form also allows new images to be expressed. The corresponding methods studied include the space and technique of patchwork that can create artistry and aesthetic functionality into differentiated levels of images, and geometric ion from Mondrian' works. Fashion designs based on patchwork technique and the characteristics of Mondrian's works reveal that the patchwork technique using diverse materials is an artistic technique with high handicraft value. This technique provides new value to traditional aesthetic materials of clothing, and that Mondrian's unique designs are very effective in developing new fashion designs because they provide artistry and unique effects to modern fashion expression.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.152-170
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• 2023

Although ugliness had long been considered a negative form of beauty, it has become an independent aesthetic category. However, most previous art studies have focused on Rosenkranz's theory, making its application to contemporary fashion analysis challenging. Therefore, it is necessary to redefine ugliness. This study highlighted four modern ugliness categories from a modern perspective following the examination of the historical considerations of the ugliness concept, namely ugliness as a violation of taboo, ugliness as an unpleasant emotion, ugliness as a vulgar taste, and ugliness as an ethical flaw. From this perspective, SHOWstudios for fashion films were analyzed in the present study. The results of our analysis showed that ugliness in the film was related to socially sensitive subjects and stimulating images. Whereas costumes in the film were used as a tool to convey the subject and to enhance the visual effect of the image. In addition, clothing was identified as a core subject element of the video, particularly when considering ugliness as an ethical defect. This study provides further insights into contemporary fashion analysis, expanding the ugliness perspective, which had been limited to the specific perspectives of scholars.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.5-20
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• 2000

Through his geometric design, the Cyprus born fashion designer Hussein Chalayan raises intriguing questions about the very fact of wearing clothes. By purposefully displacing the function of each part of the clothing, such as neck line, hem line, seam, sleeve, etc., Chalayan transforms the meaning of the body that wears clothes. of the human subject as a sovereign possessor of the clothing and the visibility related to fashion. This transformation is achieved by distorting the spaces of his clothing in an unorthodox way. This thesis argues that the significance of such a practice can not be properly understood without relation to the current debate on deconstructionism under way in humanities. Instead of immediately negating the modern frame of Ideas and practices, deconstructionism asks what the assumptions for the modern regime of truth is. In this process, things that lead human beings to sovereign master of knowledge and truth such as reason, subject, body and vision are questioned. In the same context, Chalayan's design not only forces us to rethink the very function of dividing inside and outside by the clothing but also the meaning of boundary operating in numerous sites of modern life. As the human subject is not something pre-given but constructed according to the cultural representation, to which the clothing belongs, fashion can be evaluated to be an active ingredient of constructing the subject. Therefore, Hussein Chalayan's design is at the cross road between the modern and the postmodern regime of fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1047-1058
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• 2009

Japanism represents a Japanese sense presented in Collections by many world-class western designers who are inspired by Japanese Kimonos. This study analyzes how the traditional Japanese costumes were applied to the modern clothing and the mix and match style appeared at the Japanism fashion based on the Fashion Collections during the three years from the spring of 2006 to the winter of 2008. The analysis was performed based on preceding studies, literature, fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, and the Collections during the three years. The results of this study on Japanism covers: the application of Kimono design, Kimono sleeves, Kimono neck line to coats, jackets, one-pieces, and blouses; the application of traditional geometrical patterns, flower patterns, and natural patterns. These patterns were presented by print, dyeing, and embroidery; lastly, the employment, utilization, function, and adjustment of Obi(belt) to Japanese style clothing and also to modern clothing. Japanism fashion presented sportism, feminism, and eroticism by using mix and match. This analysis can contribute to the application of the ethnic clothing to modern clothing.

• 복식
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• 제26권
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• pp.69-85
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• 1995

Recently Southeast Asia has developed, so the world concerns about these regions. Ethnic fashion in 90's is mostly the influence of these regions' folk costume. The purpose of this study is to review aes-thetic aspects of folk costume in Southeast Asia, to investigate the influence on modern fashion and to predict the possibility of Asia fashion's adaption to modern fashion and to help the cre-ation of fashion design. First of all, the folk costume in Southeast Asia is classified drapery style and sarong style. These non-west clothing appeal to modern fashion as the oriental tranditional beauty. Ethnic fashion appeared in 1990's is attempted to be more complex and variable than the pre-vious ethnic fashion. Asian ethnic fashion influenced from folk costume of Southeast Asia is-wholly or party-the style, color, motif from each country's folk costume. And each country's unique art became the motive of the creative design. Specially, Aosai and Quan in Vietnam and sar-ong style in most Southeast Asia are important motives expressing minority's nostalgia. These are expressed in variable ways. Which are harmonized with latest other fashion trend : retro style and naturalism, Layered look, hippie look, unfinished sewing technic and manual technic are used one image matched the folk costume of Southeast Asia which is natural. Another characterstic in Asian ethnic fashion is a multi-ethnic. This harmonizes the different culture between the Orient and the West beyond the age and culture, and combines each folk costume. It is involved that the fashion can develop indivisual country's costumes mixed with her own unique characteristics and the fashion break the traditional concept and disagree with a certain coordinate rule and it indicates that the fashion shows various style, mood, volume and room as well as space. Like this recent Asian ethnic fashion comes to us in a strange favor. The people who are tired of traditional western civilization's outcome will receive a great tastes from the Asian ethnic fashion.

• 복식
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• 제61권8호
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• pp.85-99
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• 2011

Geometrical figures have been used as artwork motifs from the ancient times to the present day. The area of fashion, being a part of modern art, is also largely influenced by geometry and geometrical shapes are being used as a motif for fashion design now more than ever before. However, studies about geometry in the fashion field are not yet done enough and further research is necessary. This research will therefore investigate the usages of round, square and triangular design in contemporary fashion. The main scope of this research is to look at the type of expression and analyze the intrinsic meanings of these shapes in modern fashion. This research will look profoundly into the general characteristics of these geometrical figures and analyze the effects and uniqueness found in the world collection introduced since 2007. As a result from this study, it was found that round and square objects were perceived in such a straightforward and positive way and these designs, when worn, really completed the final look. On the other hand, the triangular design was used mainly for spatial expansion and was interpreted in a more metaphorical, indirect and abstract way. The intrinsic meaning of round, square and triangle figures in contemporary fashion consists of the informal features that really steps out of the formative clothing structure. The topological changes that is formed from the interactive functions and the wholism that creates a new system through integration of the human body and clothing contains the intrinsic meaning of these geometrical figures. Based on the research results, the method of expression and the characteristics of modern day fashion's geometrical figures was able to be easily understood. This work provides the useful information on the development of fashion design and the extended interpretation of clothing structure.