• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.21-29
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyze the 21C Fashion's expression related to 'Verfremdung' theory, in aesthetic theories established after modern times, and then to examine a new meaning and value. The expressions of 'Verfremdung(estrangement)' in modern fashion, appear the followings: 1) placing distance with traditional sex and rational beauty of body. 2) paradox of inversion, 3) illogical juxtapositions by encounter. 4) dismantlement of material concept etc. After showing practically production technique that breaks traditional exception, that is, a new design method of open concept which drives positive idea about discrepancy of realities. This trial has warning abut art's self-control occurring at the time when aesthetic disinterestedness theory is expanded, and is considered indictment about a inhuman property of modern civilization and culture, and is considered expression of will to show alienation by it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.5
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• pp.769-785
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• 2018

This study focused on similarities between modern philosophical Nomadism and the thoughts of Korean people as well as analyzed the correlation between modern Nomad fashion and Korean traditional costumes. This study aims are as follows. First, to establish aesthetic characteristics by examining modern Nomadism and Korean thoughts. Second, draw the principles of design expressions of modern Nomad fashion and Korean traditional costumes. Third, analyze correlations between them. The method of this study was a literature review and an analysis of related photos. The study results are as follows. First, Nomadic aesthetics are characterized by the formation of complex diversity with the variability of fusion and separation through liquidity in an ambiguous boundary; in addition, various possibilities and harmony are the characteristics of Korean aesthetics, held by a holistic thought based on the vision of the universe of Qi (氣). Second, Nomad fashion appeared as variable designs through repetition and the overlapping of forms, and irregular designs were noticed through repetition and the overlapping of circles, quadrangles, and angles in Korean traditional costumes. Third, similarities in the creation of liquidity, variability, and de-territoriality based on modules can be found; in addition, common principles can also be drawn from the appearing design expressions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to discuss the modern fashion design that incorporates national flags, by each country, methods of their expressions and distinct characteristics. Moreover, it intends to contribute in creating the image of Korea and our own unique fashion identity through creative designs that coincides with the modern trend by adopting Taegeukgi. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: The American flag and the British Union Jack were molt widely used and even though it was less frequent, flags of the France, Korea, Israel, Germany as well as Argentina have been featured in modern fashion. The expression methods also varied and it demonstrated the unlimited options as to how a flag can be presented. Some used the traditional flag as is. Some only used a portion of a flag or its colors as a motive or sometimes the flags were completely redesigned. There are distinctive characteristics when flags are incorporated into fashion. First, the shapes or colors of the flags were used to emphasize the image of a country in rather simple silhouette without many details. Second, through altered shapes, shades, colors or rearrangement, the country's image is presented in more subtle, indirect manner. Third, a flag is a mere element of a formation with various changes to its shape or color, and it no longer holds the traditional significance of a flag. It may also represent the playful or ironic image by combining with other items or execution techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.163-182
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze artistic formativeness represented in the modern fashion design materials. Nowadays the modern fashion design materials is characterized by variety. The fashion materials the most important of fashion is called a softwear in textile industry and emerged as a new field. Fashion design also escaped from the tra-ditional restraint and extended to pursue lib-eral clothes and the designer's creative inten-tion has resulted in conceptual and conven-tional alteration as a new mode of plastic ex-preseeion. As a results of analysis of the formative fea-ture of Art style represented in the modern fashion design materials. First Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and rtistic environment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Accordingly the wide applicaytion of the various object due to the thought of Sur-realism through the modern fashion materials brought the diversification and individua-lization of the modern fashion design. Second Pop Art that is made modern mech-anic culture and commercialism brought the great transformation in the history of Art out of the existing style and the sense of ex-pression. And the plastic characteristics of Pop Art that has a gravity as modern fashion materials on a them of the elements of popular consumer's society. That is the common and cheap objects were introduced into fashion materials itself or pat-tern. Third Minimalism is a trend in art att-empting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means. The features of external form are simplicity clarity unrelated composition and symmetrical structure. Mini-malism was a quest for basic elements repre-senting the fundamental esthetic values of art. The minimal expression in modern fashion materials mean fabrics with simple surface and is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns. Fourth Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization and is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth religion customs and art. So Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction. These erotic char-acteristics were holded the meanings of sexu-ality through the modern fashion materials. Especially it was expressed the sexual part of body was nakedly showed through trans-parent materials or semitransparent like metalic and opaque materials. Recently the various kinds of new materials such as paper vinyle plastic metal as well as human body were applied to new fashion de-sign. First of all the new materials will give modern fashion designers stimuli and inspi-ration. It can also express values of moderners to despise materialism and uniformed modern society and to recover humanity and self-actualization.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.141-153
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• 2001

In the midst of rapid cultural and artistic changes with the turn of the century, postmodernism is exerting great influence on the value and trends of arts. many artists are making utmost efforts in order to overcome ambiguity and confusion caused by these changes. Analysis of the works and philosophy of prominent fashion designers provides insight into the influence of postmodernism to the creation of modern arts including fashion. This paper attempts to explore how pluralism, one o the most important features of postmodernism, has given impacted to the modern fashion design. fashion trend and works of Paco Rabanne were reviewed with particular emphasis on pluralistic expressions in his fashion creation. it was found that Paco Rabanne's diversified and innovative use of materials and design methods were possible due to the influence of pluralism. It is anticipated that this trend will e observed in the various forms of arts wit the further analysis of fashion designers and artists.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.835-848
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• 2014

This study investigated the relationship between inner characteristics manifested through the characteristics of artistic styles and formativeness manifested through external expressions of architectural styles in the early Medieval Period and early Renaissance Period. The method applied to this study is as follows. First, a historical document research was conducted centering on academic theses, related books, and academic databases; in addition, a case study identified the aesthetic characteristics of women's clothes. The conclusion of this study is as follows. First, the following is the analysis of the relationship between the artistic mode and architectural formativeness in the early Medieval Period and early Renaissance Period that represent a turning point in artistic paradigms. Second, the inner characteristics and eclecticism of the artistic mode literally appear in the formativeness of architectural style in the early Medieval Period, and the eclecticism in the architectural style appears to be expressed through a combination with new styles based on the application of the retro mode such as the eclectic adoption of cultural styles of various regions based on the tradition and technology of ancient Rome. Third, the trend of the aesthetic characteristics commonly appear in the modern style of expression related to the aesthetic characteristics of western women's clothes in the early Medieval Period; in addition, the early Renaissance Period was analyzed as decorativeness and respectively manipulability.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.16 no.2 s.61
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• pp.209-216
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• 2007

Some may call Peter Marine as 'an ego-less architect', or 'palace maker' due to his designs or attitudes that appearantly please world's most well known clients. However, his eclectic taste and artistic expressions combined with his minimal and abstract architectural approaches are being recognized in many places globally, especially in many fashion brand stores such as Channel, Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, and Fendi. Born and educated in U.S., Peter Marino designs are influenced by two most famous designers of our modern art history Andy Warhol and Jean-Micheal Franks, that are obvious in his traditionally modern French style designs and abstract expressions. The current study introduces Peter Marine designs through analyses of Channel and Louis Vuitton. The objectives are to understand the designer and find patterns in his brand store designs that has made him now one of the most famous fashion store designers. Educational, social, and personal interest were found to strongly form his design characteristics and four main characteristics were identified by the researcher that are use of LED lightings, emphasis on vortical circulations, graphical application of brand identities, and repetition of simple geometric forms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.252-271
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to expand satirical expressions that appear in a wide range of arts into fashion and to analyse and present satirical expressions that appear in contemporary fashion through the collections of Thom Browne. Theoretical examination of satirical concepts were made of domestic and foreign academic theses, dissertations, precious studies, and publications related to satire. Analysis was conducted on cases in which satirical expressions were applied in literature, painting, sculpture, and fashion. Based on these studies, analysis was conducted on satirical expressions appearing in Thom Browne's work. Material was gathered from collection reviews, interview articles, professional books, and internet photo material from professional fashion magazines encompassing 16 years of Thom Browne's collections officially recorded in the international fashion magazine 'Vogue', ranging from the 2006 S/S collection to the 2021 S/S collection. From this, a total of 1,753 photos were collected as data. Characteristics of satirical expression were analyzed and the results were as follows. A fluid reconstruction of 'gender fluid', dual meanings of metaphorical allegories, playful expressions of visual wit, constructions made of overlapped disassembled material, and borrowing of morphological distortion were all identified. Accordingly, satirical approaches as social aspects and objects in the flow of modern thought appear as positive forms based in humor that hope to be improved. This study anticipate the concept of satire will expand into a positive form as a new direction of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.156-170
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• 2005

As contemporary art tends to diverge from its fixed genres and intends to appeal to the public, fashion comes to contribute to the contemporary art area, by playing an important part in the creation of artistic value of art work. Nowadays, it is not unusual to see fashion work shown in an art exhibition parallel with art work, since some artists adopt costumes as the medium of their work in order to explore various means of expression. The occurrence of philosophical, sociological theories concerning human body parallelled with the prevalence of the post-structuralist ideas and occurrence of various styles of artistic expressions of body encouraged active research and attracted social attention to body. With such background, fashion art was formed by a means of the integration of body and fashion in order to create extreme artistic expression. 1 intend to investigate a variety of trends in fashion art from the viewpoint of body space. This study developed criteria for fashion image in contemporary art. Those criteria are based on the dichotomy that divides body into inner aspects and outer aspects. According to the criteria, Firstly, the extension type of body shape includes enlargement and reduction as its sub-types. Secondly, the opening-closure type includes opening type and closure type as its sub-types. Thirdly, the intensity type categorizes clothes into uniqueness and hybridity. Dynamism type classifies fashion art into fixation and moving. The various expressions of clothes type are interpreted as a means by which we can criticize many phenomena of modern society, such as loss of humanity, isolation of individuals, loss of identity, commercialism, and materialism. In the latter period of modern society, the integration of the double-faced nature of body and spirit was attempted and popular fashion was introduced into art in order to express desire, death, gender, identity, and sexual pleasure.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.27-39
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• 2006

Surrealism, appeared in the beginning of the 20th century and affected almost all art fields, is one of the most representative art trends. Surrealism, not restricted from any rules and traditions but tried to produce a new appreciations in the world of dream and unconsciousness, also has affected fashion. In this paper, I have tried to find out how the surrealism has been expressed in the modern fashion, especially in Thierry Mugller's design. Thierry Mugler is one of the most famous designers who have expressed surrealism in their fashion designs. I have classified his designs and researched them by the application into the human body and the nature, by the metaphor and transformation of things, and by the metamorphosis of location and an optical illusion. It was based on Depaysement which is one of the ways in surrealistic expressions. The result of the study is followings; First, surrealism made fashion design possible to creat unlimitedly and sublimated it anew modern beauty by attempting the varieties of the fashion, not restricted from any rules and traditions. Second, surrealism made the general public to complete anew recognition and valuation about fashion by expressing the external character and the internal meaning on the clothes. Third, surrealism made people to recognize, which clothes is not simply wearing thing but also one of the art expression forms.