• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.79-95
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• 2006

The relationships between costumes and literature are the remarkable characteristics in the history of Japanese costumes. Among them, the literary designs which have literary subject matters seem unique to Japan. In Japan, the history of the literary design traces far back and its examples are abundant in various literatures in the Heian era. It is particularly notable that the literary designs take a relatively large part of Kosode pattern in the pre-modern period, the Edo era, which can be cleary seen in Kosodehinagata-bon, a collection of Kosode pattern of those era, in addition to various sources of extant relics or paintings. These literary designs lie the tradition of the literary lyricism as aesthetic sense in the japanese costume history. The literary lyricism means the lyrical mood evoked by literature. The purpose of this study is to examine how the literary lyricism which has supported those literary designs was formed and developed. The literary designs on costumes related with the relationships between literature and formative art, for example painting. Those typical example, which started in the literature tournament, utaawase, was devised for matching up with the character of the assembly. They continued as a sort of the intellectual amusements. In the pre-modern period, the literary designs developed In relation to not only subject matters but those expression. Moreover, it shows the extremely typical example that a series of Kosodehiinagata-bons, consisted solely of literary designs, was enjoyed as a device of reading materials like poem anthology.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2014

The costumes (including mask) of the first World Master series of The National Changguk Company of Korea, Achim Freyer's 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' is directly designed by Achim Freyer who was in charge of direction and stage design. The new form called Pansori opera is proposed for modernization of Korean traditional opera, it maintained the original form of music yet introduced play form of opera. The costumes and stage also promoted modernistic transformation while maintaining the original Korean form. The overall concept of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' costumes emphasizes comical effect by abstractness like childlike scribble. It expressed characteristic of characters diversely through exaggeration and expansion while maintaining original form of Hanbok, used surface of costumes as a drawing board, and created flat and geometrically transformed silhouette. The complicated characters was caricatured like everyone is doing mask play by using masks, and it still maintained sophisticated oriental color with modern application of five cardinal colors. It may seems it just mixed our traditional elements like a hint of humor, however, it could be known that it introduced various techniques in it to deliver new subject while maintaining the original form of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king'. From this study, open mind for our tradition and need for diverse attempt could be rediscovered and could also see the possibility to contribute on creating a Nation Brand of traditional performing art.

• 복식
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• 제67권4호
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• pp.38-57
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• 2017

Traditional costume in Indonesia represents identity of a person and it displays the origin and the status of the person. Where culture and religion are fused, the traditional costume serves one of the most functions in rituals in Bali. This research aims to analyze the characteristics of Balinese costumes by focusing on the Legong dance costume. Quantitative research was performed using 332 images of Indonesian costumes and 210 images of Balinese ceremonial costumes. Qualitative research was performed by doing field research in Puri Saba, Gianyar and SMKN 3 SUKAWATI(Traditional Art Middle School). The paper illustrates the influence and structure of Indonesian traditional costume. As the result, focusing on the upper wear costume showed that the ancient era costumes were influenced by animism. They consist of tube(kemben), shawl(syal), corset, dress(terusan), body painting and tattoo, jewelry(perhiasan), and cross. The Modern era, which was shaped by religion, consists of baju kurung(tunic) and kebaya(kaftan). The Balinese costume consists of the costume of participants and the costume of performers. Bali dancing is grouped into Wali dance(sacred), Bebali dance(theatrical), and Balih-balihan dance(entertainment). The Legong dance is included in the Balih-balihan dance, and its costume developed from 1920 until present. The characteristics of Legong dance costumes are 'Theatrical,' 'Angelic,' 'Charming,' and 'Decorative.' In conclusion, the balance of religion, culture, and art gives a unique trait in Bali. The Balinese social system, which is based on Hinduism, has influenced art and its function. This relationship creates a strong structure to the Balinese ceremonial costume, especially the Legong dance costume.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

This study examines research trends in the dissertations and journal articles on stage costume so as to provide basic information on directions for future studies. The data was collected from the theses of domestic journals of the Korean Studies Information (KSI) which were published until December, 2012 and retrieved by a keyword related to the "design of stage costume", "costume for performing art", and etc. Theses and articles for the analyses were a total of 200 published. Reviewing the theses by dividing the times into 8 Chronicles of 5 years in each term. The findings of the study are as follows: According to the chronological analysis, there has been a steady increase in the rates of the musical, ballet, dance, and circus costume and cutting edged technology such as LED has been utilized in the performing art, currently. The real production and making up of the costumes have been increasing as well by replacing of illustration and rendering of the costumes. In the recent costume of the performing arts show the tends of the visual effects and up-sizing, comprehensiveness and fusion. From the analysis of the background of the work, those were confirmed that the most common historical period was modern period, and places were France, England, and Egypt. In regard to research themes and methods, many of research papers utilized content analysis method, character analysis method as research methods. The most popular presentation of the costume designs was "rendering", "costumes schedule" and "illustration". However, development and explanation of the patterns was insufficient and constructions methods and real works(costumes) were usually omitted in the articles.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.261-275
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• 2022

K-Pop과 K-Fashion이 전 세계의 주목을 받고 있는 현 시점에서, 한류와 연계하여 한복 분야의 좀 더 다양한 아이템을 현대적으로 재해석한 패션상품을 개발해 한류문화와 한류패션을 활성화시킬 필요가 있겠다. 이에 본 연구는 K-Pop의 원형이라 할 수 있는 궁중연희에서 연행된 궁중정재를 주제로 한류연계 패션상품을 개발하여, 문화와 패션 영역을 융합하고 확장해 보고자 하였다. 이를 위해 궁중정재복식의 원형과 현대에 연행되고 있는 궁중정재의 복식을 분석하여, 기존의 일상적인 한복과 차별화되는 무산향·연화대·처용무·춘대옥촉·춘앵전복식을 선정하였다. 이 5가지 복식의 특징적 요소가 반영된 한류연계 패션상품을 디자인했고, 3D 가상 착의 프로그램인 클로(CLO)를 활용하여 실루엣과 사이즈를 점검한 후 총 5착장의 상품을 개발하였다. 이에 본 연구를 통해 첫째, 디자인적인 측면에서 한국적인 디자인의 대중화, 둘째, 산업적인 측면에서 한류콘텐츠 영역의 확대, 셋째, 국제적인 측면에서 K-Fashion의 세계화 등의 효과를 기대해 볼 수 있을 것이다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.963-978
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• 2008

This study examined the images and formative features of female characters portrayed in fantasy films. This study aimed at providing an applicable theory to modern fashion by reconsidering the images of women appearing in fantasy films and arranging fantastical features reflected in costumes of female characters. The followings were the results of the study: The first divine nature that human beings discovered was woman nature. The discovered stone worked of the prehistoric age had a meaning of the great mother of universe and expressed a positive image. Such positive images of the goddess were variously differentiated to negative images or reduced in their roles and meanings in the settlement process of patriarchy as well as sociocultural transition. The foremost examples of negative image were expressed as grotesque, destructive, otherness, sensual, and exotic. The positive image of a goddess in fantasy films was not especially emphasized. On the other hand, the negative images of the goddess and the case of costumes were variously expressed as well as emphasized the typicality of the negative image of the characters. It was reconsidered that the typical features of characters in fantasy films were a result of the image of women following sociocultural transition. In addition, it was confirmed that such result was being reflected in film costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2010

This study aims to know the trace of Korean musical, consider musical depending on its type, arrange characteristic of musical costume and find out the developmental direction of Korean musical costume with potentials as a culture industry. For study method, the data were collected from thesis, academic journal, book and internet web-site concerning musical costume, literatures were considered and performance costume photos, which were captured via musical performance site, were analyzed. The history of Korean modern-day musical is regarded as starting with (1966) in the full scale. Although foreign musical was imitated in 1970s~1980s, it may be called the growth period of Korean musical because the period showed the commercial possibility. Since 1990s, large-scaled musical securing good work and popularity was popular. In 2000s, musical industry was abundant quantitatively and qualitatively as investment or popularity was significantly expanded. The type of Korean musical are divided to opera musical of European, Broadway musical of American and creative musical of Korean. The costumes used in opera musical of European and Broadway musical of American are borrowed from original works through license or were manufactured in Korea by referring to the costumes of original works and using similar materials or fabrics. The costumes used in creative musical of Korea are designed by either domestic or foreign designers and produced in Korea.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.64-75
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• 2024

Clothing is a powerful medium that reflects the environment, situation, and trends of the times. It has been an important subject of semiotic analysis, particularly in East Asia. While Korea, China, Japan, and Mongolia are geographically close, they have each developed unique characteristics in their clothing. These characteristics continue to evolve over time. The purpose of this paper is to explore the modern fashion design characteristics of these four East Asian countries by using the Greimas symbol square. To achieve this, the paper follows a research method consisting of several steps. First, it considers previous studies on the topic. Second, it analyzes fashion collections from Paris, Milan, New York, and London, as well as the Seoul and Cruise collections, from 2013 to 2024. Third, it compares costumes and modern fashion designs of brands known for their East Asian influences. Finally, it applies the framework of the Greimas symbol square to analyze the main elements of dress culture in these four countries and their significance in modern fashion collections. The findings of this study reveal that East Asian costume culture can be summarized into four distinct characteristics in modern fashion. Korea is characterized by "moderation," China by "exaggeration," Japan by "distinctiveness," and Mongolia by "symbolism."

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제49권8호
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• pp.13-24
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• 2011

This paper purports to find the characteristics of blue costumes as expressed in modern fashion. As such, we made an empirical analysis, using 436 works from 2006 S/S through 2010 F/W collections. Result indicated that modernness was emphasized by applying a minimum expressive technique to items of a simple form, and an image of simplicity was emphasized by placing focus on the rational color image of blue. Second, images of blue, such as trust, stability, and success were expressed as refined elegance through the combination of tight silhouettes, glossy and translucent materials, and indirect exposure. Third, natural image was expressed through natural silhouettes, soft or natural materials, gradation of various tones, and natural motif decorations as well as the color itself. Fourth, dynamic image was expressed by introducing fashion items, mostly worn by men only, to simple and tight forms or through the inspiration of a masculine fashion image. Fifth, abstinent image was expressed by using an image of religious apparel or symbols, covering up the body, minimizing details, and using a dark blue tone.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.67-75
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• 2003

In fashion history, the color "green" has been used from ancient to modern times constantly. Especially nowadays, the worth of green in fashion is becoming bigger than ever before to express the longing for pure nature. The purpose of this study is to define green's imageries in western costume history. For the basic about green, first of all, this study researched green of origin, effect and costumes in western history, then classified green's imageries. Green's imageries expressed in western costumes can be divided mainly into a 'nature imagery' and a 'religious divinity imagery'. Nature imagery was extended again into 'youth, devil, citizen and ecology image'. Youth image came from the luxurious feature of nature and it was extended again into 'innocent love, virgin and immaturity'. Religious divinity imagery has been represented in the ancient Egypt, Islam and Christian religion. In those cultures, green was considered as a sacred color of Osiris, Mahomet and Holy spirit.