• 미술이론과 현장
• /
• 제14호
• /
• pp.125-158
• /
• 2012

After liberation from Japanese colonial rule in 1945, there was the three-year period of United States Army Military Government in Korea. In 1948, Democratic People's Republic of Korea, and Republic of Korea were established in the north and south of the Korean Peninsula. The Republic of Korea is now a modern state set in the southern part of the Korean. We usually refer to Koreans as people who belong to the Republic of Korea. Can we say that is true exactly? Why make of this an obsolete question? The period from 1945 when Korea was emancipated from Japanese colonial rule to 1948 when the Republic of Korea was established has not been a focus of modern Korean history. This three years remains empty in Korean history and makes the concept of 'Korean' we usually consider ambiguous, and prompts careful attention to the silence of 'some Koreans' forced to live against their will in the blurred boundaries between nation and people. This dissertation regards 'Koreans' who came to live in the border of nations, especially 'Korean-Japanese third generation women artists'who are marginalized both Japan and Korea. It questions the category of 'Korean women's art' that has so far been considered, based on the concept of territory, and presents a new perspective for viewing 'Korean women's art'. Almost no study on Korean-Japanese women's art has been conducted, based on research on Korean diaspora, and no systematic historical records exist. Even data-collection is limited due to the political situation of South and North in confrontation. Representation of the Mother Country on the Artworks by First and Second-Generation Korean-Japanese(Zainich) Women Artists after Liberation since 1945 was published in 2011 is the only dissertation in which Korean-Japanese women artists, and early artistic activities. That research is based on press releases and interviews obtained through Japan. This thesis concentrates on the world of Korean-Japanese third generation women artists such as Kim Jung-sook, Kim Ae-soon, and Han Sung-nam, permanent residents in Japan who still have Korean nationality. The three Korean-Japanese third generation women artists whose art world is reviewed in this thesis would like to reveal their voices as minorities in Japan and Korea, resisting power and the universal concepts of nation, people and identity. Questioning the general notions of 'Korean women' and 'Korean women's art'considered within the Korean Peninsula, they explore their identity as Korean women outside the Korean territory from a post-territorial perspective and have a new understanding of the minority's diversity and difference through their eyes as marginal women living outside the mainstream of Korean and Japanese society. This is associated with recent post-colonial critical viewpoints reconsidering myths of universalism and transcendental aesthetic measures. In the 1980s and 1990s art museums and galleries in New York tried a critical shift in aesthetic discourse on contemporary art history, analyzed how power relationships among such elements as gender, sexuality, race, nationalism. Ghost of Ethnicity: Rethinking Art Discourses of the 1940s and 1980s by Lisa Bloom is an obvious presentation about the post-colonial discourse. Lisa Bloom rethinks the diversity of race, ethnicity, sexuality, and gender each artist and critic has, she began a new discussion on artists who were anti-establishment artists alienated by mainstream society. As migration rapidly increased through globalism lead by the United States the aspects of diaspora experience emerges as critical issues in interpreting contemporary culture. As a new concept of art with hybrid cultural backgrounds exists, each artist's cultural identity and specificity should be viewed and interpreted in a sociopolitical context. A criticism started considering the distinct characteristics of each individual's historical experience and cultural identity, and paying attention to experience of the third world artist, especially women artists, confronting the power of modernist discourses from a perspective of the white male subject. Considering recent international contemporary art, the Korean-Japanese third generation women artists who clarify their cultural identity as minority living in the border between Korea and Japan may present a new direction for contemporary Korean art. Their art world derives from their diaspora experience on colonial trauma historically. Their works made us to see that it is also associated with postcolonial critical perspective in the recent contemporary art stream. And it reminds us of rethinking the diversity of the minority living outside mainstream society. Thus, this should be considered as one of the features in the context of Korean women's art.

• 복식
• /
• 제61권6호
• /
• pp.131-145
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide preliminary data on strategies to create a domestic prestige brand based on Korean traditional designs. This study also deals with how to promote this brand around the world. The two points mentioned above will be accomplished by examining the characteristics of the brand '3.1 Phillip Lim' which succeeded in both design and marketing during a short period of time. The method of the study will be followed. Firstly, the basic design and philosophical background of Phillip Lim was investigated, after reviewing the global luxury market and current status of overseas expansion of Korean designers through paper study and antecedent workups. Secondly, for the practical stage, design characteristics and marketing strategies were reviewed with the collections of '3.1 Phillip Lim'. Three factors found in '3.1 Phillip Lim's design success are as follows: First, practical and simple designs using fabrics of high quality. Second, handcraft elements and interesting details that differentiates his design identity. Third, femininity expressed in the feminine silhouette and color. The marketing elements that made '3.1 Phillip Lim' as a successful brand are: First, differentiated positioning as a luxurious contemporary brand. Second, brand promotion through various collaborations. Third, the gradual expansion of women's, men's, kids' apparel to accessory, lingerie and the stable flagship stores. Thus, '3.1 Phillip Lim' has combined modern and classic styles using high quality fabrics and practical designs with unique details. Through it's differentiated marketing strategy targeting New York's market, which prefers popular 'luxury contemporary brand's rather than high-end luxury brands, this brand's creativity and commercial aspects contributed to make '3.1 Phillip Lim' into a luxury brand that represents New York fashion. Korean designers who seek to enter the global fashion industry should consider applying Korean traditional designs on global designs to make favorable products and localize these products according to regional characteristics.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제13권4호
• /
• pp.178-190
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to make reference for geometric fashion by investigating geometric patterns by linear types and to propose high value added print and fashion design by designing and producing geometric prints and apparel with them focusing on digital textile printing. As a method of the study, visual and textural data were investigated for theory of geometric pattern and fashion design samples were illustrated. The geometric pattern could be defined as abstract pattern which was crossed with straight line or curve. We could group it into three classes such as straight linear, curved, and mixed type. Images varied with linear types. The image of straight linear type was sharp and modern, that of curved one was soft and feminine and that of mixed one was gorgeous and artistic. And then, 3 geometric prints and 3 one-pieces were designed. The concept of design was simple optimism which was based on sixties. Target was young optimistic women group from the mid teens to the mid twenties who continued to seek after their unique individuality keeping their modern lifestyle. Geometric patterns with straight linear, curved, and mixed type were designed and dresses which went well with them were designed and produced. According to the result of this study, images of geometric fashion can be represented diversely by varying linear type, digital textile printing is good method for high value added geometric fashion because of its high quality and degree of sensitivity, and geometric pattern is a good source for contemporary fashion.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권9호
• /
• pp.162-175
• /
• 2010

An important change started in knitwear fashion in the 1980s. Advanced designers in Japan began to provide a new interpretation on knitwear, and seamless knitwear based on computerized machinery appeared. Knitwear fashion showed differences starting the 1980s due to this change. In this regard, the study aimed to analyze knitwear fashion after the 1980s where the contemporary knitwear experienced changes to define characteristics of modern knitwear fashion and examine its inherent formative nature. Designs for 30 years from 1980s up to date have been analyzed by 10 years in order to identify the characteristics of knitwear fashion over time. In particular, formative characteristics of modern knitwear fashion have been analyzed in more depth with a focus on the period from 2001 through 2010 by narrowing the whole period. Insufficient domestic literatures and visual materials led the study to mostly use foreign books and internet sites. Insights of 7 professionals who have engaged themselves in knitwear industry over 10 years have been incorporated into this study, which will enhance the reliability of the formative analysis. As a result, the data have been organized into three tools of analysis, including exposed bodies, transformed bodies and natural bodies from the perspectives of expression and silhouette of body, and the features of flexibility, industrial artistry, innovation and sensuality have been highlighted in terms of formativeness. In this regard, it has been confirmed that the formative nature found in the knitwear fashion exists in the scope of the formative nature in the embryonic period of the knitwear fashion. It means that the formative nature of knitwear fashion contains perpetuity that transcends an age.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제9권1호
• /
• pp.21-33
• /
• 2005

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of identical color coordination through the analysis of modern female fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections'. Data collection of 2026 was done through review of '$pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Lastly, statistical analysis of frequency and $X^2$-test and also qualitative interpretation of identical color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; The color coordination of modern women's fashion produces a unified theme, or monochromatic harmony, through the use and coordination of identical colors. The clear contrast of tones portrays a strong image especially in achromatic color coordination, and through the use of texture variation, monochromatic color coordination becomes even more compelling. The tone variation, observed most often in monochromatic color coordination was the black and white contrast, which enhances the simplicity and clarity. Within chromatic color combinations, tone on tone color coordination was achieved by varying brightness. Furthermore, the observation of Faux Camaeu indicates that the coordination of different textures is used often in identical color coordination. While achromatic colors can lead to a hard and rough feeling, it also is compensated through the use of varying textures. In addition, adding variety of textures can add subtle interests to the simplicity of white. Lastly, in all four collections, the chromatic identical color coordination was found more frequently than the achromatic. In Paris, N.Y. & London, the chromatic identical coordination was used more often than chromatic. Milan showed most use of achromatic coordination. The use of the tones showed similar trends in all four collections, with contrasting tone being used most often, followed by similar and identical tones.

• 복식
• /
• 제53권2호
• /
• pp.87-100
• /
• 2003

In this study, the modern street fashion of Kangnam and Kangbuk was qualitatively examined and comparatively analyzed through the field case study, and it is expected that the results of this study be importantly used in planning commodity of fashion brand. The photographs taken in the Kangnam and Kangbuk streets were classified as looks. which were comparatively analyzed each other. Also, a questionnaire was carried out in return for women in those streets, and data related with an age group, occupation, school, academic major, etc. for participant personality and with time purchasing clothing. average expenses for clothing per month. market and reasons for buying clothing, current fashion style, etc. for fashion preference trend were obtained. The streets around Kangnam subway station and KOEX mall for the Kangnam fashion style were selected for the sampling, and Sinchon and entrance of Ewha University for the Kangbuk, where college students and middle/high school students mostly gather. Results showed that an easy casual style was most popular in the Kangbuk area, and a romantic feminine style including a bobos style most popular in the Kangnam area. This case studied on the street fashion gaves the qualitative results about the fashion trend and fashion prediction information, and they could be compared with quantitative those known previously. Also, it could be a basis research on strengthening the competitive power in fashion commodity. However, this study was subjected to restriction in the sampling due to the short time and a few streets. This study will be extended into longer time and various streets including Apgujungdong in Kangnam and many colleges in Kangbuk.

• 대한간호학회지
• /
• 제38권3호
• /
• pp.445-453
• /
• 2008

Purpose: This paper analyzed the historical origins of the Qi concept and assesses its possible contribution to the development of complementary therapy and new nursing practices. Methods: In order to clarify the Qi concept measure its theoretical/clinical potentials, this study analyzed both historical data and experimental research that adopt and apply the concept. These include modern/contemporary research measuring its effects in promoting mental and physical health. Using the method of cross-cultural comparison, this study analyzed diverse approaches to the Qi concept and sought to find common features among the approaches. Results: A historical, cross-cultural analysis revealed several fundamental similarities between Qi theories that have developed in the east and the holistic concepts that have evolved in the western traditions. Especially, the analysis of the more recent research on the Qi concept shows ample possibilities of its future contributions to the development of new diagnostic applications and the promotion of overall human health. Conclusion: The historical study of the Qi concept found some key common factors in the diverse philosophical traditions in the east and the west. Considering the growing popularity of complementary therapy among health professionals and the general public, the Qi concept and its clinical applications are expected to promote human health. In this context, this research contributes to developing new nursing practices based on the concept by clarifying its philosophical origins and theoretical backgrounds.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제16권4호
• /
• pp.661-680
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제22권5호
• /
• pp.776-793
• /
• 2014

This study attempted to figure out the usage of the modular system in other fields through literature review and empirical study, analyze its structural method in fashion. After analyzing architecture & product-related books, the Internet data and previous studies, the modular system's five structural methods were obtained. Then, 991 photos of women's clothes from 2003 to 2014 were collected through the fashion websites in Korea and abroad. The results can be summarized as follows: First, the following five structures were derived: assembling structure, overlapping structure, arrangement structure, inserting structure and folding structure. Second, according to analysis on the structural method of the modular system in modern fashion, overlapping structure (34%) was the most common. Third, in fashion, the use of fastener for installation and removal is important for assembling structure. In terms of overlapping structure, 3D volume by vertical accumulation was commonly observed. Arrangement structure revealed a horizontal and flat shape through simple arrangement. In inserting structure, on the contrary, non-standardized modules were used as a part of clothes or decorative elements. In folding structure, origami technique for reduction and expansion was used.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
• /
• 제15권4호
• /
• pp.97-105
• /
• 2006

Richard Meier has earned his recognition by developing his unique design approach and keeping consistency in design concept in museum architecture over the years of his practice. The purpose of this study is finding common characteristics of the exhibition space spatial organization based on actual site visit analysis. This study will mainly focus on the museums Richard Meier designed between 1979, which is the year he started, until 1997 which is the year Getty Museum opened. For the purpose of this study, Museum of Applied Art, Frankfurt(1979-85), High Museum of Art, Atlanta(1980-83), Museum of Contemporary Art, Barcelona(1987-95), and The J.Paul Getty Museum(1984-1997) have been selected for analysis. This study will reveal fundamental characteristics of Richard Meier's architectural philosophy through his early residential projects and give background information of the 'white architecture' Close analysis will continue by reviewing four museums selected specifically for this study and focus more from the point of issues such as; 1)applying various axis in space programming, 2)symbolic significance of exhibition space, 3)hierarchy of each space, 4)design elements and characteristics of the exhibition space. Furthermore, quantitative research on exhibition space organization will be done by Space Syntax theory method. The result of the study will be a significant data in designing a modern museum.