• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.79-95
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• 2006

The relationships between costumes and literature are the remarkable characteristics in the history of Japanese costumes. Among them, the literary designs which have literary subject matters seem unique to Japan. In Japan, the history of the literary design traces far back and its examples are abundant in various literatures in the Heian era. It is particularly notable that the literary designs take a relatively large part of Kosode pattern in the pre-modern period, the Edo era, which can be cleary seen in Kosodehinagata-bon, a collection of Kosode pattern of those era, in addition to various sources of extant relics or paintings. These literary designs lie the tradition of the literary lyricism as aesthetic sense in the japanese costume history. The literary lyricism means the lyrical mood evoked by literature. The purpose of this study is to examine how the literary lyricism which has supported those literary designs was formed and developed. The literary designs on costumes related with the relationships between literature and formative art, for example painting. Those typical example, which started in the literature tournament, utaawase, was devised for matching up with the character of the assembly. They continued as a sort of the intellectual amusements. In the pre-modern period, the literary designs developed In relation to not only subject matters but those expression. Moreover, it shows the extremely typical example that a series of Kosodehiinagata-bons, consisted solely of literary designs, was enjoyed as a device of reading materials like poem anthology.

• 복식
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2004

As Confucian ideology dominated all over the society, the androcentric patriarchical society in the last of Chosun Dynasty produced the unequal power relationship between man and woman. It was traditional hostesses(kisaengs) who uniquely had an occupation among the women in this society. In modern society. they are reinterpreted as 'fashion leaders' or 'professional career women with expert knowledge and it caused a lot of the studies of them to be in a progression vigorously. Therefore this paper studied on the influence of the traditional hostesses(kisaengs) -who were educated and permitted in ther social activity formally in a Confuanism-governed society which forbided a woman to participate in a social activity and which did not gave ladies any formal education. The general hostess in the beginning time of the Chosun Dynasty imitated the hair shape of women in the yangban family which formed the highest class in the Chosun Dyansty and it reflected their aspiration for the highest social class. Howerver, coming into the last age of the chosun dynasty, a reverse phenomenon -that women in the yangban family imitated the general hostesses' hairstyle -occured due to the spread of a genre painting ＆ the concubine system. The general hostesses were educated systematically and did social activity and influenced hair shapes as they were independent economically and their influence in the part of hairstyle appeared as great and high EONJIN MEURI and as one-sided EONJIN MEURI. Regarding-as the result of this study on the influence of the traditional hostess's hair shapes on the ladies hair shapes in the last of Chosun Dynasty -that the traditional hostesse of the last age of chosun dynasty played a role as a fashion leader of the ladies at the same age. the general hostesses in Chosun Dynasty should be revaluated... And the study of ladies which were hidden behind the scenes of Confuanism should be made much more.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.96-106
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• 2015

Occupying the center of architecture, design, painting and culture, minimalism is aesthetics of essence that reflects modern age but transcends age at the same time. Pursuing minimalist trend like this and covering the range of furniture, interior and architecture, total designer Antonio Citterio is developing minimalist designs of his own. Called one of the 3 greatest furniture designers in the world today, he leads the trend and enjoys high reputation as a world-renowned interior designer and architect. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to analyze and integrate minimalist descriptive characteristics which appeared in interior space of Citterio who pursues minimalist design. As a study method, this study reorganized minimalism from methodological perspective, drew out expressive characteristics of minimalist interior spaces unique to Citterio based on background and influence of Citterio's design and, centering on this frame of analysis, analyzed and integrated interior spaces he designed. The results of this study are as follows; first, in order to overcome problems that can become monotonous in a minimalist space, Citterio provides spatial experiences to feel visual and spatial variations using the ramp and bridge. Second, he created various senses of space with visual and spatial expansion using transparency in the walls made of glass. Third, with linear expressions, he designed modern spaces with beauty of proportion and balance through contrast and emphasis. Fourth, he made constructive expression through exposure of structures or stairs in the space. Fifth, he created sophisticated atmosphere with contrast between natural and artificial materials and emphasis of material properties. Sixth, his design also shows the characteristic of using furniture as the role of adjusting overall atmosphere of interior space, not as separated parts from it. The author hopes that above results of this study will provide new implications for the development of domestic interior design.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제36권1호
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• pp.47-59
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• 2020

Scientific analysis was conducted to identify the paint pigments used in the Buseoksa Josadang murals. optical microscopy(OM), X-ray fluorescence(XRF), XRF mapping, scanning electron microscopy-energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy(SEM-EDS), and Raman spectroscopy were performed to examine the pigments. The results confirmed that the Josadang murals consist of two paint layers wherein the pigments were distinct for most colors. It was estimated that celadonite, white clay, red ochre, cinnabar and minium, synthetic green pigment containing tin and zinc paratacamite, or botallackite were used in the upper layer. In addition, bone white, celadonite, red ochre, azurite, cinnabar or vermilion, and gold were identified in the lower layer. In addition, as Zn and Sn were detected in the green pigments extracted from the top layer of the paint, it is believed that Josadang murals were repainted over the original paint layer at some point after the 17th century. In addition, white pigments containing calcium phosphate were found in all the colors in the bottom layer, which is the original paint layer. These results are significant because this is the first time that white pigments are found in Korean traditional paintings. Additionally, the information revealed about the pigments in this study will serve as areference for the pigments used in the Goryeo period.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.333-343
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• 2016

현대 미술품 중 페인팅 된 야외 조각품의 수량이 증가함에 따라 보존처리에 대한 연구가 진행되고 있으나 아직은 초기단계이다. 국립현대미술관 과천관 야외조각공원에 전시되었던 니키 드 생팔(Niki de Saint Phalle)의 '검은 나나(Black Nana, 1964년)'는 야외전시로 인하여 작품 표면 페인트층의 박락 및 열화가 진행되었으며, 이로 인해 보존처리가 요구되었다. 보존처리를 시행하기에 앞서 '검은 나나'에 사용된 페인트의 성분 및 종류를 알아보기 위하여 단면관찰, FT-IR, Raman, Py-GC/Mass 분석을 실시하였으며, 해외 선행연구 결과와 비교하였다. 그 결과, '검은 나나'에 사용된 페인트 종류 및 색상은 해외 선행연구 결과와 일치하였으며, 손상 유형 역시 유사함을 확인하였다. 본 연구결과는 '검은 나나' 보존처리에 필요한 재료선정 및 보존처리 방법에 있어서 기초자료로 활용될 것으로 기대된다. 또한, 보존처리 시 작가의 재단 및 어시스턴트 등과의 협력을 통해 작가의 제작의도를 정확하게 파악하여 작품의 원본성을 존중한 보존처리가 진행될 것으로 기대된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.85-95
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• 1986

Sonia Delaunay(1885$\~$1979) was one of great pioneers of abstract art, who looked at clothes and fabrics with a plastics eyes. In Association with her husband Robert Delaunay, they were instrumental in founding the movement of Orphism, she proceeded to mix strong and bright colors into her art and had a brilliant influence on the decoration and women's fashion of the 1920's. Having a strong sense for dramatic and decorative color derived in part from childhood remembrances of Russian folk art she initiated a total revolution in which she created her first simultaneous dress with multi-colored samples of materials. She extended the principle of color's simultaneity to the field of fashion, fabric design and applied art. She was interested in the dress for ballet and opera. Fashion designer Paul Poiret asked her to design the fabrics and she created the geometric and abstract patterns with her strong color. It seemed that her design was revolutionary and avant-garde. Always she desired not only art of seeing but also art of living. The purpose of this study is to recognize the influence she had upon the history of modern fashion and fabric design. It was remarked that her paintings served as a basis for later developments in Kinetics Art and had influences on 1980' s abstract patterns for silk dress. Finally, the concept 'simultaneity' of her art signifies endless rhythmes in space and time.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.22-32
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is on the application of the facade design of k-national university in deagu. The subjects of the study examined 75 buildings from the 117 university buildings in main campus. The analysis items is analyzed by several elements; flat and sloping roof, main entrance, design principle, style of architecture, finishing materials, and characteristics of design surveyed by analysis items. The results are as follows: In the 1950s, 2 subjects have shown conflicting characteristics except brick finishing materials. In he 1960s, flat make up 75% of a whole, centrality in main entrances occur, but have an asymmetrical, during this period vertical motif have been underlined by repetition of column, stone has application to main adminstration building. The buildings in the 1970s were so characteristics of modern architecture by painting and flat except main entrance at the center of facade. In the 1980s, position of main entrance have a corner of a wall, finishing materials of a wall were beginning to use stone, glass and metal. The buildings in the 1990s and 2000s are looking a three-dimensional composition by rhythm of superimposition and segmentation and all finishing materials of analysis items are in use.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.159-178
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• 1998

Genres of the modern arts are expanding the overlapping area between the arts ; ceramics and weaving considered as crafts are devel-oped to the ceramic art and the fiber art, re-spectively. This trend has been also applied to the clothing part, which produced several new terms such as‘art to wear’,‘unwearable art’,‘clothing sculpture’and so on. As following this tendency, the unwearable art is dwelling on the boundary of painting, fiber art and scul-pture, and the clothing sculpture comes from the combination of fiber art and sculpture. While Issey Miyake's dress made of bamboo and Foltuny's pleats dress associated with Greek stone-column introduce the sculpture to the functional fashion design, the works of clothing sculpture become the arts by applying the sculpture to the non-functional unwearable art. Although the clothing sculpture is an interesting subject to be studied continuously for its effect on the contemporary clothing part, it is valuable enough as an unwearable art and sculpture respresenting the artist's concept under the circumstance that the boundary between arts and design is no longer clear, i.e., the clothing and the sculpture come across their regions each other. Furthermore, the clothing sculpture has its own value as a metapor exposing idea, feeling and spirit of the artist in the genre of the unwearable art. With a view point of the abstract clothing concept, the clothing sculpture has been taking the role expanding the clothing to the world of fine art.

• 복식
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.47-58
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• 2000

This paper analyses the geometric aspect of Soma Delaunay's works on the basis of design elements and principles. Geometric pattern is one of the distinct features of early 20th century avant-garde works. The significance of its pattern and colour comes from the fact that it has not only influenced the contemporary fine art but also offered the basic principle of modern costume design. In 1925 she was designing clothes which could be worn today without appearing old-fashioned. She foresaw the future trends in fashion and interior decoration, One might claim she belongs to the avant-garde even today and no less astonishing a phenomenon than she was in 1925. Soma Delaunay's art was one of the first expressions of abstract painting and her "simultaneous contrasts"are among the earliest example of the aesthete. In Delaunay's geometric abstraction it is found that the technique of"simultaneous contrasts" is exploited almost without exception. colour as well as collage was the favourite technique Delnaunay used in creating a distinct simultaneity, Many "inobjective" paintings as she herself called unite the rigour of simple geometric forms with an inner life and poetry which emanate from the richness of the colour, the musicality of the rhythm, the vibrant breadth of the execution.rant breadth of the execution.

• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.25-37
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• 1981

Art Nouveau style refers to the movement of art which was started in France and Belgium in the last decade of the 19th and the early years of the 20th century. The distinguishing characteristics of Art Nouveau style are the sensous sinuosity of its line, nervously undulating, curving over itself, rhythmical, flowing in endless patterns, which are inspired by animals and plants, specially by flowers, leaves, long stalks. The Art Nouveau style includes also the extreme simplicity of form, and asymmetric design. This new trend of art movement spread into architecture, furniture, wall papers, graphic design, accessories and textiles. In this paper, I tried to find out whether or not the Art Nouveau style had an effect on clothing. Because I believe clothing, like architecture, painting, and sculpture, is an Art form that derives from a particular set of cultural circumstances and reflects the needs and aspirations of the society for which it is created. Fashions in clothing over the last five thousand years have mirrorred the art form as well as the spirit. The result of this study shows that the Art Nouveau style made a lasting contribution to the modernism of clothing as well as architecture and interior design at the end of 19th century and the early years of the 20th century. The modernism of clothing appeared in the straight silhouette, asymmetric design, simple and light trimming, embroidery with Art Nouveau pattern, and stylized flower design in textile. Art Nouveau made a great contribution toward the modern clothing to have its liveliness and its harmonious relationship between clothing design and the use of materials.