• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.117-133
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• 2022

In order to reflect traditional elements in modern design, designers should be able to creatively apply elements of traditional Chinese clothing. To understand this, a deep understanding of and insights into the traditional clothing culture are required. In this study, the characteristics of traditional Chinese women's clothing from the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties of China to the Qing Dynasty were analyzed by dividing them into silhouette, color, pattern, materials, and detail. The characteristics of the silhouette were classified into A, H, X, and O types, of which types A and H were the most common. As for the color characteristics, there are relatively many five cardinal colors, and for the contrast of colors complementary colors were mainly used. As the for pattern characteristics, real patterns, animal patterns, character patterns, geometric patterns, and mixed patterns were used. Four types of materials were mainly used: silk, hemp, cotton, and wool. The detail characteristics were also anlyzed by classifying them into collar, sleeve, neckband, and gusset. Based on the results of this analysis, a satisfaction survey was conducted on the design of modern Chinese women's clothing. The result of satisfaction with design elements showed that the images of vest and suit were most preferred, H and X silhouettes, and yellow and white were the most preferred. Geometric and plant patterns were preferred, as were silk and acetate materials. Based on the result of chi-square analysis of design element preferences according to the characteristics of the subject, there was no difference according to occupation, residential area, or income, and there were differences in silhouette, color, materials, and detail according to age.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.661-680
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.865-879
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• 1997

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 21, Nt. 5 (1997) p. 865∼879 The purpose of the study is to identify a historical change about the women's underwear and trousers this nation of ours until an ancient times to modern ages. Because the record of the women's trousers exist scarcely anything, the study refers to several documents, for example, the literatures of the Chinese and the Chosun Dynasty, the Koryu's fresco, the Tou of Shinra, the painting of the rock face, the archaeological dresses and genre pictures, and The folkways methods through the residents is used to collect and to arrange of an enlightened age and modern times. Originally, the women's trousers appeared for the nomadism and the hunting in the northern distric and the northeastern provinces. Male and female, old and young wear the trousers which are the clothes native to Korea. The trousers which are originally narrow trousers are influnced by Chinese wide trousers. The trousers at the time of Samsuk hand down until Korea. The Skirt on the trousers is nothing but a courtesy. But gradually, it is distinguished only the trousers, and then, there are exchanged an underwear which not only the protection angainst the cold but also the beautiful. Therefore, the form of skirt is diminished, and the underwear is simplified as the increasing status and the activity of woman in the age of civilization. In a way, the reform trousers and Three-kingdom era trousers appeared and the Dansogok and Sogok disappeared at present. There are confirmed in my investigation of folk customs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.376-388
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the types and characteristics of Chinese indigo dyed designs performed until today in private houses of Chinese minority races and to examine the modern value of traditional dyeing crafts of minority races by investigating the cases of utilizing modern private Chinese indigo dyed designs. As the research methodology for theoretical study about the history of Chinese traditional pattern dyeing, the origin, types and characteristics of Chinese indigo dyed designs, the preceding research data, photo data, and Internet data were utilized, and for the empirical research on Chinese traditional dyeing techniques and the cases of utilizing today Chinese indigo dyed designs, the on-site survey on Guizhou and Yunnan was conducted during February and March 2008 and the data were collected and analyzed. Based on the results of this research, it was found that Chinese indigo dyed designs represented Chinese traditional pattern dyeing, which was inherited and developed mainly in Chinese minority races and Chinese. It could be seen that according to geographical distribution and characteristics of each race, the types and characteristics of dyeing techniques were formed, which are classified into the batik of the Miao of Guizhou in the Chinese southwestern region, the tie-dyeing of Bai of Yunnan, and Chinese blue calico(resist printing) of Chinese private houses in the Hunan and Huseo regions, and these represent the three typical Chinese dyeing techniques today. Based on the results of empirical research on the utilizing cases, focusing on the traditional living handicrafts of Chinese minority races, traditional cultural articles, and artworks, the modern values such as practical, cultural, and artistic values of Chinese indigo dyed designs could be rediscovered.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.956-970
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• 2006

The purposes of this study was to analyze the characteristics of national races' costumes in Chinese contemporary costumes. For the purpose, this researcher concentrated on the relations between national races' costumes and Chinese contemporary costumes and discuss systematically depending on references such as fashion magazines, picture albums, and historical records. The results of study were as follows: First, the formation of fashion has been influenced by Man, Uighur, and Choson races. For example, Qipao, the tight style of Man race's fashion, Uighur race's bell style sleeve and cyclic skirt are applied to women's modern fashion. Second, weaving, printing, and embroidery technique of a minority race developed more than Han race, so applied still. Recently, Chinese contemporary costumes accepted the weaving technique of Miao and Uighur race through publicizing of a minority culture. Third, a national race's costumes are famous with splendid design and applied to modern fashion directly. They are commonly made to hair pin, necklace, earing, bracelet and so on. Recently, styles from a national race's costumes and old style are becoming popular to Chinese and it's easier to found such a fashion in market.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.902-915
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• 2007

This study examines decorative features found in the traditional costume of the Miao, one of the minority groups in China, and adapts them for the development of modern Korean-style fashion designs in order to present visual sample data and to introduce techniques. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined: the former includes Miao-related books and theses; the latter, pictures from various documents and real-life data in the possession of Seoul Women's University. The study result is as follows: 1. The basic structure of Miao costume is consist of a Caftan-type upper garment and an accentuated lower garment, pleats skirt although they are decorated luxuriously with various techniques such as delicate embroidery and dyeing. 2. Details and trimmings in modern shapes are developed and presented by adding modern materials to satin, twists, cross-stitch embroidery, stripe patterns, geometrical patchwork, machine pleats and smoking, trimmings of fringe & feather, and the border line decoration of coloration, braids, piping, embroidery, belts tied and wound with colorful threads. 3. Detachable accessaries such as front reinforcement strips, back reinforcement strips, belts, decorative aprons and patchwork skirts are developed and designed by adapting highlighted layered effects. 4. The silver decoration used as an necessary by the Miao is suitable for modern fashion design in futuristic sense. Various techniques and decorative features of Miao costume display their true value all the more in modern fashion stream in which ethnic trends draw much attention.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.296-308
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to understand Qipao, that Chinese traditional women's cloth, and analysis the aesthetic characteristics of that. Joining WTO in 2002 and 2008 Beijing Olympic made China get the attention by the world and get the opportunity that advent of China style. Chinese fashion cultural contents have abundant meanings in internal or external, therefore characteristics aesthetic of Chinese traditional fashion had much influence in world fashion design. Qipao that has influence in contemporary fashion design could be used special fashion design data for China market. A variety of literature and prior researches for Qipao's history and transition process was studied. Internal and external documents, fashion magazines, internet information were investigated to study features of Qipao. Total 20 seasons fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2009F/W was examined, and selected 22 brands that showed Qipao style, after then extracted 418 photos among them. By the seasons, Eit showed 193 pieces in S/S and 225 pieces in F/W, and was put to practical use in F/W season than S/S. The results are as follows. The contemporary fashion collections shown in the Qipao style silhouette, detail, color, material, pattern and the results obtained by each, were in all respects diversity. In silhouette, including traditional tight silhouettes, 'H' silhouettes, boxy silhouette was such a variety. The five colors traditionally preferred color from the color was more of a tendency to be gorgeous. Modern reinterpretation of pattern designs by graphic pattern that has emerged. Also, shown in a contemporary fashion collection Qipao style leather material in application utilizing the glossy feel of a plastic material and has emerged feeling.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.723-735
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to analyze the types of Jumoni (pouches), which takes the most quantity of traditional women's handicrafts in China, and examine figurative characteristics of them through demonstrative study focusing on collections of literature and museums. Traditional Jumoni of China included Dae, Nang, Hapo, Tu, Hap, and Chimeui. Its types included a pleated type, a covered type with a lid, an opened type without a lid, and a type that was stitched up after putting objects in it. The Jumoni had various shapes such as a polygon, a circle, and shapes imitating objects. It was used to store cosmetic utensils, sewing supplies, everyday household utensils, valuables, medicinal ingredients, flavoring materials, and so on. It had various figurative characteristics which were different from those of women's handicrafts in Korea. Based on the findings, it aims to provide basic information for developing Korean traditional accessories that make the best of Korean traditional beauty as well as add modern esthetics have both Korean traditional beauty and modern esthetics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.1-17
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• 2020

The Peking Opera is one of the most representative cultural aspects of China. It includes China's traditional specialties, such as stage performance, stage background, and costumes. The purpose of this study is to investigate the characters and the costume characteristics of the Peking Opera to present fashion design. This research is meaningful for spreading the Peking Opera to the world by applying China's traditional costumes to fashion design. Based on the cultural background of the Peking Opera and the analysis of the opera costume, four sets of women's clothes were made by using the traditional Chinese elements. The conclusions are as follows. First, traditional features such as patterns, colors, and styles from Peking Opera costumes were used in fashion design. The colors and patterns use Chinese traditional aesthetics to carry out contemporary fashion design and apply creative materials. Second, the neoprene used to create the items is a material suitable for the modern design of the traditional Peking Opera costumes. Neoprene has good elasticity and can be cut and sewn in a variety of ways. It can also satisfy the three-dimensional atmosphere and rich morphological changes found in Peking Opera costumes. In addition, a combination of thin chiffon and mesh materials is also suitable for the development of modern designs. Finally, in order to show the effects of traditional works, the patterns were finished by hand-painting. The hand-painted works were then scanned and printed on the material by the digital printing techniques. At the conclusion, the traditional features and feelings of the contemporary designs were presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.704-716
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• 2008

This study aims to explore the creation of fashion design that embraces the diversity of human culture by examining oriental images that appear in the modern fashion with a focus on new paradigms that significantly affect human life as the latest trends, and by reflecting the trends of the times. The results of this study are as follows: First, this study examined that with regard to paradigm, a theoretical frame to view universe, the dichotomous, determinist, mechanism, linear paradigm collapsed to convert to undetermined, exoteric, pluralistic, indeterministic, organic, and holistic paradigm. The new paradigm is identified to have emerged before and after 1950s, and through the new paradigm, the characteristics of postmodernism such as historicality, popularity, locality, folkways and the characteristics of deconstructionism, internally mutual text, post phenomenon, undeterminability and externally exposure, destruction, poverty, decomposition and analysis, were identified. Second, the Orient is defined as the generic term referring to the entire Asian areas east of Turkey. Through the developmental process of oriental images, it was converted from the Oriental image, which mysteriously and romantically represents oriental elements, into the ethnic image that represents long time oriental traditions and indigenous culture together with the characteristics of the new paradigm. Third, the artistic characteristics of the Oriental costumes presented by Korea, China and Japan are expressed in developmental types, T-type plane structure, layered style, asymmetrical adjustment and easy silhouette, and they show indigenous characteristics of each country, for example, Chinese styles in dragon pattern, red and yellow, Japanese styles in flower design and achromatic color. Fourth, the Oriental Image, combined with the postmodernism and deconstructionism through the new paradigm, has two: one Oriental image highlights traditional elements by creating new Oriental image such as natural image, folk image, hybrid image and deconstruction image; and another is undetermined and vague by combining or decomposing Oriental or Western elements. It is expected that fashion designs that reflect these contexts of the times will contribute to the strengthening of international competitiveness.