• Title/Summary/Keyword: military costume

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A Study on the Hyperreal in the Military Look - From the Industrial Age to Modern Times - (밀리터리 룩(Military Look)에 나타난 하이퍼리얼(Hyperreal) - 산업시대이후부터 현대까지 -)

  • Lee, Song-Lim
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.3
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    • pp.83-96
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    • 2011
  • It will be very effective in studying fashion images that reflect society to investigate the process of the images of military uniforms becoming fashion with the images as the original or image changes in the military look in relation to The hyperreal of the Simulation phenomenon. The foundation of the study was set up by studying simulation and simulacra. Studying the simulation phenomenon in fashion was followed by explaining the aspects of simulacra and the hyperreal in image changes in fashion to study and analyze the simulation phenomenon of the military look based on the findings. The study examined the military look from the Industrial Age to modern times through simulation and the hyperreal in the military look of modern fashion through the changes of images that started with military uniforms. Those research efforts led to the following conclusions: Looking into fashion through the military look reveals that The hyperreal made its appearance in most cases with few cases of the 1st and 2nd simulacrum. And hyperreality was closely related to media in fashion under the influence of media. In short, fashion and copy are in an inseparable relation, and the hyperreality phenomenon has always been present in modern fashion.

The Changes of Ceremonial Costumes of the Guan Yu Shrine and the Method for their cultural contents (관왕묘 의례 복식의 변천과 문화콘텐츠화 방안)

  • Park, Ga-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.4
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    • pp.32-45
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    • 2012
  • The purpose of this research is to better understand the Dongmyo, the Eastern Shrine of GuanYu and the military costumes of the Joseon period andto develop different cultural contents. By studying relevant literature, confirmations were made about the various types of costumes and their historical changes. During the reign of King Yeongjo, the ceremonial conductors often wore armors, and the king wore a different military costume. During the reign of King Jeongjo thereafter, the ceremonial costumes were codified in the book, the Chun-gwan tonggo(General Outline for the Ministry of Rites), along with the costumes for the musicians and lower officials. However, the military features were weakened in the late Imperial Joseon years. In terms of costumes, it would be best today to restore the ceremonies of the Shrine of Guan Yu during the period of King Jeongjo. All the costumes for different figures of the Shrine are clearly confirmed, and by emphasizing the main features of the ceremonials of the Shrine, it is possible to differentiate the ceremony from other restoration activities in Korea. For the Guan Yu statue, the hat is square shaped and decorated with nine bead strings, it is dressed with a red dragon coat and a violet inner coat. This study presents methods for the restorations of the original costumes for the individual figures of the ceremonials, with necessary theoretical explanations. The king wears the lamella gold armor, while different ceremonial officials wear differentiated armors according to their different ranks. All the civil and military officials who attend the ceremony wear military clothes with horse's mane hats and swords. The musical conductor and directors are expected in armors and participating musicians also have to wear armors according to the Akhak Gwebeom (Basics of Music).

A Study on the military uniforms -Based on strategical changes and innovations of military firearms- (군복에 대한 연구 -무기발달과 전술변화를 중심으로-)

  • 한순자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.32
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    • pp.243-259
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    • 1997
  • The object of this research is to inform readers of the chronikal change of Military Uniform in wars how the features and colors of uniforms have been changed along with the innovations of firearms. Military uniforms can be put into two differ-ent categories which are 'Battle wear' and 'Rank wear' A battle wear features of protec-tion and user fiendliness, These features of a battle wear can possibly minimize injuries and help increase the level of battling perform-ance. On the other hand a rank wear help dis-tinguish soldiers from their ranks and posi-tions. A rank wear symbolizs the pride that soldiers take n their unit and by wearing a rank wear soldiers feel more attached to their collegues and unit. Concrete process of military uniforms is as follows. 1. As firearms were innovated corres-pondant innovation of military uniforms were also needed this innovation were in the formstructure design color etc. 2. In the beginning features of military uniforms changed toward protection and then after social status of solders rised features changed forward show-off Finally as firearms became more fortal camouflage became the most significant feature of the military uniforms. 3. During war colors of military uniforms tended to be a means of show -off and camou- flage and while not in war they functioned as symbol which represent froops and the unit is tradition. 4. Other accessaries support the perforance and the symbolical function of uniforms.

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Fashion accessories design development using the characteristics of military uniform - Focusing on leather handcraft carving techniques - (군복의 특징을 활용한 현대 패션액세서리 디자인 개발 - 가죽 수공예 조각기법을 중심으로 -)

  • Zhang, Renkai;Ha, Seung Yeon
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.21 no.4
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    • pp.97-113
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    • 2019
  • Among the many factors affecting fashion trends, the concept of war has been particularly instrumental throughout human history. Specifically, military uniforms worn during the WWI and WWII became popular fashion styles that introduced military uniforms to modern fashion and continue to be influential to this day. And the fashion accessories market is continuously demanding new styles. The purpose of this study is to investigate the reasons why military uniforms have been continued to be influential in contemporary fashion, to apply fashionable features of military uniforms, and to make leather accessories by using leather-carving techniques. The characteristics of military uniforms were analyzed in advance research, domestic and international literature, and cases applied in modrern fashion collection. In conclusion, five modern fashion accessories were developed by combining the form, function, and decorative elements of the military uniform that have been constantly reflected in modern fashion with leather handcraft carving techniques. This study is meant to suggest the possibility of developing artistic and original fashion accessories that are both practical and reflect the history of military uniforms.

A Study of Design in Rank Badges for Old Chinese Military and Civil Officials

  • Park, Kyoung-Sook
    • Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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    • 2003.10a
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    • pp.34-34
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    • 2003
  • This report is a study of designs embroidered in rank badges of military and civil officials' uniform in old China. Rank badges, or Bo(補) in Chinese, which are attached to officials' uniform, are embroidered designs on the breast and the back for people to easily discern between military and civil officials as well as between higher ranking and lower ranking officials. Bo(補) was used for various social stratum including king, queen, king's brothers, prince, and princess. This study, however, is focused on design of Bo(補) attached to the uniform of military and civil officials. This study first started with the origin of Bo(補) design, woven symbols in patches on the breast and the back of Gibsa(集史)'s uniform during the Yuan(元) dynasty. Lastly, this study reviewed and analyzed design of Bo(補) for military and civil officials during the Ming(明) and Qing(淸) dynasties.

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Fascism Expressed in Military Looks: Since the 1990s (밀리터리 룩에 표현된 파시즘 - 1990년대 이후부터 -)

  • 임상임;추미경
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.5
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    • pp.845-858
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to identify the association of military looks with fascist aesthetics and to infer various aesthetic values of fascism expressed in military looks. The research method is documentary studies through the literature and academic papers, and examined masters' and doctors' theses, domestic and overseas books and fashion magazines, photographs and materials collected from the Internet. The facism expressed in military looks is as follows: First, nationalism, reflecting the current ideology of rebellion, appeals to the original national sentiment of the masses. Second, temptation implies that fascism tempts the mass using the nature of charisma rather than by force and, by doing so, accumulates mighty power without military force. Third, mythology is utilizing images and symbols of great appeal to people for absolute power beyond the concept of time. In order to express power for the effusion of emotional energy through the vision for realities and the magical power of images. Fourth, barbarism is always harbored in the conflict and confrontation of interests among ideas, economies, religions and classes on the other side of contemporary civilized society.

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A Study on Gender Images Expressed in Military Fashion - Basis on a Women's wear in the 1990's - (밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이미지 연구 - 1990년대 여성복을 중심으로 -)

  • 채금석;이화정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.1
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    • pp.103-115
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is understanding modern woman's various aesthetic values and aesthetic sense through observing expression aspects of gender images in the 1990s military fashion and analyzing their aesthetic characteristics and formative factors. Gender images in military fashion have expressed the masculine image of authoritative image and offensive image and offensive image, and the feminine image of conservative image and ostentatious image, sensual image. The authoritative image showed authority and dignity of military uniform by using the classic military uniform's image. This spoke for desire of women to rise their position. Heroism and androcentrism affected as its formation factor. The offensive image destroyed original dignified image of military uniform by that resistance to authoritative image and existing gender identity appeared as way-out form and deconstructive expression. Anti-establishment spirit, resistance to gender identity, and deconstructionism affected as its formation factor. The conservative image expressed military fashion only with slim and soft silhouette, curved line, color, and simple details by magnifying feminity. Fallen man's authority affected as its formation factor. The ostentatious image expressed military fashion with magnifying accessories such as gold button and belt by women who wanted to display ostentatiously their social position and charm. The aspiration for class of elite affected as its formation factor. The sensual image intended to show erotic voluptuous beauty of woman's body by indirect and direct body exposure. Narcissism, desire to show, and sexual amusement affected as its formation factor.

Analysis on the Military Look of the Paris Collections (파리 컬렉션에 나타난 밀리터리 룩 연구)

  • Chu, Mi-Kyung;Kim, Hye-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.8
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    • pp.137-151
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    • 2007
  • This study was aimed to analyze and investigate a diversity of aesthetic values expressed in the military look designs of the Paris collections by using content analysis method to find what design characteristic and image emerged in the later 20th century. A total of 267 military look works shown in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Collezioni Donna over the period between 1996 and 2000 were collected as research data, which were classified into 5 categories such as item, silhouette, color, color coordination, fashion image. The results were summarized as follows: first, it was found that coat was the most preferred item in expressing the military look image. Second, the straight line was the most referred silhouette, which indicates that it was the most suitable silhouette in expressing he bisexual image of the military look. Third, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest frequency, which shows that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors around 1996 and this influence was effected in the military look. Finally, monochromatic coordination accounted for more than half of the military look, through which it could be explained that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image.

Factors relating to Changes in Costume Style of Stone Statues at Tombs of the Emerging Gentry (Sadaebu) in the Joseon Dynasty (사대부 묘 석인상 복식의 양식변화 요인에 관한 고찰)

  • Lee, Eun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.6
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    • pp.12-23
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    • 2008
  • This study reports the costume changes and the factors of the changes from stone status in joseon dynasty. It can be summarized as follows: First, the artisan for the statues is one of the most important factors for the costume changes. The artisans who were involved in building the King's tomb were also made the stone statues for scholars' tombs. This results in that the style of the King's tomb influenced the costumes of stone statues for scholars' tombs. Some craftsmen who were buddhist monks also influenced the introduction of buddhist arts. Second, the stone statues are classified into 3 types according to the dead's social position: the civil officer statues, the military official statues, and the servant statues are installed for the civil officer, the military officers, and others, respectively. This principle was applied well. However, the civil official statues are mainly installed in late joseon dynasty because the civil officers are socially preferred to the military officers in late joseon dynasty. Third, there are two types of civil officer statues; Gongbok type and jobok type. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were mainly installed in early joseon dynasty and civil officer statues of jobok type were begun to be installed in the early 16th century. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were fade out after the late 17th century. Fourth, there are three reasons why civil officer statues of jobok type were installed at the officers's tombs 270 years earlier than at the Kings' tombs: 1) Introduction of Daemyunghoejeon and its application, 2) an establishment of a system that requires to prepare jobok individually, and 3) self-confidence of scholars' class on political and cultural maturity.