• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.217-227
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• 1997

Costume of each age reflects its own history. Military costume is an reflections of war, social and geometrical background. Soldiers on their uniforms were at the battlefields with their lives and country on their shoulders. The main purpose of this writing is to study military costume of ancient empires in historical Point of view including especially those of Egypt, Mesopotamia, Crete, Greece, Etruria, Rome. As we will see, ancient military costume developed from earlier stages of uniforms into military costume in various ways. The types of military costume formed itself gradually but rapidly into sophisticated, useful, and excellent quality clothes. Military costume of early ancient empires signified its strength and were actual and symbolic costume that determined life and death, glory and disgrace.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.458-484
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• 2001

The costume originated from the idea that it could protect human beings from ferocious beasts. The military costume was from protection against an enemy equipped with weapons. Furthermore, the makers of the costume were afraid of supernatural powers and it made them devise an armour and decorate it by the concept of superstition for the purpose of overcoming it. The function of military uniform was important for increasing the protection against any enemies while they join in battle. However in harmonious time, it represented artwork of peace, dignity, and order. Since the uniform was a king of symbol to show their position, and their role. They could feel proud as a member of a military group they belong to and they gain honor, courage, patriotic sentiment through their military costume. The purpose of this study was to investigate the originality the military costume as it changed and developed continuously from ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome to modern times. This study was performed to show the comparison and characteristic marks of the past, and the influence of them on the modern military uniform. The method used in this study was using past manuscripts of the early times, information attained from domestic and foreign military documents and previously written reports. As a result, the military costume was one of many means of expression of their natural and social environment. It can be said that the most epoche-marking and powerful changes to the social environment are revolution or war. War absolutely has influenced on the changes of the changes of costume and the military armour according to the type of war and the development of weapons. Especially using the amour, the main purpose that of protecting the body has changed into distinguishing our forces from the enemy and instilling fear into enemy, Furthermore, the class who has the power has used it in order to express their power and dignity. Therefore, armour had required two rules to not only protect the body but also discriminating between classes.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.23-31
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• 2014

Neo-Confucianism was the dominant ideology of the Joseon Dynasty Korea. Male and female costumes reflected a clear distinction in male and female sex roles. This study analyzes cross-dressing in sword dance performances. The research method examines relics, paintings, pictures, and documents relevant to sword dance costumes as well as for the military. The results are: First, the composition of sword dance costume was jeogori (upper garment), skirt, and shoes with military costume of jeollip (hat), jeonbok (long vest), and jeondae (belt). Second, the sword dance costume and military costume are very similar except for the basic inner wear, shoes, some details and methods of wearing. Third, the sword dance costume gradually adopted military items and features. The sword dance costume was basically female, with overall additions of a male costume, to express an androgynous image; however, the cross-dressing phenomena in the sword dance were not intended for the pursuit of sexual pleasure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.171-187
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• 2013

This is a study on the military costumes of Hunryeondogam, which was the center of Five Military Camps in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty. I confirmed the characteristics and system of military costumes of Hunryeondogam by document research and positive research. The military organization of Hunryeondogam was comprised of the high-ranking military officers such as Hunryeondaejang, Junggun, Cheonchong, Byeoljang and Gukbyeoljang, the mid and low ranking military officers such as Pachong, Chogwa and soldiers. And the military costume of Hunryeondogam included Gapju, Yoongbok and Goonbok for military officers and all kinds of military uniforms for soldiers. Imjin war and ritualized military ceremonies in the era of peace had influence on the military costume. Officers, for example, were wearing Dangap and soldiers were wearing Cheolgap or Pigap that depended on the branch of the army. Politically, kings in the mid and the late Joseon had organized military organizations to strengthen their royal authority. I think that the policy can be effectively seen by observing the military costume system. The qualitative differences in cloth materials and the presence or absence of patterns of Goonbok, the qualitative differences in the decoration of Jeonrip and the presence or absence of Yodae were able to distinguish the identity and the rank. An assumption can be made that these things could have been affected by social causes, such as frequent trips of the King and stable society. This cause could be influence on substitute Yoongbok with Goonbok that from the low ranking military officers to the high ranking military officers of Hunryeondogam. The societal changes in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty are reflected on the military costumes system of Hunryeondogam.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.143-155
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• 2014

This study focuses on Yusam, a military raincoat that was worn during the Joseon Dynasty. The purpose of this study is to review the types and management system of Yusam. Documentary records, paintings and relics were used as research materials. Yusam was recorded as either Yusam(油衫) or Yu-ui(油衣) in writing. It usually looked like a skirt and was worn like a cape, but there were differences in length. Some of them took the form of a short coat with half-sleeves and side slits. Research analysis results of Silrok, Ilseongrok and the archives of the military camp in the later Joseon are as follows: First, Mokyusam and Jiyusam coexisted as military raincoats. Mokyusam was made with cotton and perilla oil, while Jiyusam was made with traditional Korean paper, a cotton edging and perilla oil. Second, the differences between general Yusam and military Yusam include the material of the clothing, the materials for waterproofing, the color, and the manufacturer. Third, each military camp supplied soldiers with hundreds to thousands of Yusam. Military officers and King's guards wore Mokyusam because Mokyusam was higher than Jiyusam. Fourth, soldiers Yusam together with Yujeongeon, Chorip, Galmo, or Hwihang as a hat. Fifth, the higher the rank, the higher the price of Yusam and the longer the term of usage. On the other hand, as the rank got higher, the cost of the supplementary oil rose, while the duration of usage got shorter.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.960-976
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• 2010

Even though Joseon Dynasty strictly identified between military and civil officials, the dress and its ornament have been studied only based on embroidery emblems that are correctly identified between military and civil officials. Thus, this study intends to research the features of the only military officials uniform, Cheollik, different from the civil officials's identifying them with other features shown from the records, unearthed relics, stone statue, Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan), etc., and its results are as follows: First, for wearing examples of the military officials, from the facts that they had worn mainly ordinary clothes, etc. on announcement of military service examination. There was no difference between military and civil officials's clothes by Daejeonhusokrok and the other documents, and there was an assertion that the form of the military and civil officials's clothes should be different by the document, Hongjejeonseo, in the latter term of the Joseon Dynasty. It is presumed that length, width and shape of sleeves might have been different. Second, unearthed Cheollik of the military officials are mostly from the 16th~17th centuries and most of them have removable sleeves according to statistics. The skirt had an opening and one or two slits. Various textiles were used. Third, military official statues of high governor wear small caps and helmets. They wear Cheollik with the collars same as the collar of Bangryeong and Jikryeong, which is also called Dopji Cheollik. It would be considered as they wear the Bangryeong on top of the Cheollik. Fourth, militarly officials described on the Joseon-tongsinsa-haengnyeoldo(Illustration of Joseon Delegation to Japan) wear Cheollik, Rip, Donggae, Okro, Hongsadae, Hwando, Deungchae.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.27-40
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• 1995

This thesis, based on the semiotic theory, compared the meaning of sign which is a grounding the military uniform of the category of clothings as a cultural sign for formative relation. As for the scope of study, I made the Amy's uniforms during the last period of Korea Empire from 1895 to 1909 as an object of amy thesis and analyzed their decument and photographes. As a result of analyse of military uniform during by semiotical application, I made clear that it has role of signal by underlying signal's aspect of sign, and it si a sign which could symbolize the class, national and periodical distinction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.349-357
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• 2016

As a solemn and serious uniform, military uniform can be differentiated easily from any other clothing in the aspects of color, material and style. Inspired by military uniform, fashion designers have been applying military uniform elements into modern fashion design in recent years, which helps to bring military uniform from the trench onto international fashion runway. The primary method of this research is theory analysis method and exampling study method. Based on the collected materials of modern military uniform, this paper takes the fashion and cultural study theory of the famous American scholar Susan B. Kaiser as the leading theory to analyze four subject positions embodied in military uniform, including nation, rank, gender and time and space. By analyzing the subject positions embodied in military uniform, it shows the rich cultural connotation of military uniform and the function of various small details. Meanwhile, by giving specific examples, this paper explores the influences of military uniform on modern fashion design in respect to color, style, material, pattern and accessory. Through the conduct of this research, it comes to the conclusion that military uniform also has the characteristics and properties described in the fashion and cultural theory of Susan B. Kaiser, in addition, designers can be inspired by every specific object around them, which shows the talents of designers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.19-36
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• 1999

A military uniform has two basic characters. One is functionality for field warfare and the other is decorativeness to express dignity and power to maintain systematic organization. For these purposes, the military uniform is maximizing its effects on functionality and decorativeness on each aspects of material, color, dignity, item, military ornaments and accessories. During wartime, the military uniform improved its functionality and gave much influence on normal clothing at the same time either directly or indirectly. Military look became more diverse. In a mood for the end of century and inflated material civilization, and with nostalgia for the fast, mixed styles of fast, presents and future have come out in variety. In Street Fashion, there are many alternative trends to meet diverse desires of teenagers, and the military look has been steadily favored. The functionality and the decorativeness of military look would have met fashion sense and taste of younger generations pretty well. First, teenagers are active, and the practical materials and functional designs of military style applied to their clothes. Second, they prefer challenging and creative styles, and the decorative elements of military clothing for the colors, patterns, accessories have been applied to they clothing. We may need to understand their culture and emotion more closely and help them enjoy sound and beautiful clothing culture. The military uniform adapted itself to natural and social environments and has been developed and improved, which made that possible.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.58-76
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• 2010

In this study, the shapes of po worn by military officers who served During the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592-1598) were investigated. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Various types of po that military officers usually wore during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea includes jikryeong, dapho, dopo, cheolik, aekjureum, jangeui, jungchimak and bangryeongpo. Out of these types, cheolik and jungchimak were most often used by the officers. Po that were usually worn by military officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea as above mentioned is characterized as no difference in length between the front and back of the costume, kalgit and a pair of coat strings which are directly attached to po. The sleeves of the costume are bean chaff-shaped in some cases and just narrowly shaped in other cases. Similarly, the outer seop of po was either double-layered or single-layered. For jikryeong and dapho, mu is usually type of outside wrinkle. For dopo, its rear kit has the inner hem whose right and left edges are usually distant, respectively by 6~16cm, from the back center of the costume. Cheolik and aekjureum usually have either fine or broad pleats. For jangeui and jungchimak, mu is usually trapezoid in shape. Among various types of po which were usually worn by military officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea, most representative are jikryeong from the tombs of Bae Cheon jo, dapho from Shin Yeo Gwan, dopo from general Bak and Bae Cheon Jo, cheolik from Nam Yoo and Cho Gyeong, aekjureum from Shin Yeo Gwan, jangeui from Kim Ham, jungchimak from Bae Cheon jo and bangryeongpo from Cho Gyeong.