• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.304-311
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• 2018

This research used a questionnaire to provide basic data for the design of dressing form that enables the manufacture of senior menswear with an improved fit to match the dissatisfaction with the fit of male suits over the 50s. We used 132 questionnaires as analytical data. The results were: The item 'purchasing method of formal suits' showed that 95.5% purchased ready-to-wear jackets. The 'abdominal obesity type' and 'trunk waist type' had a high frequency of 'complaints about the size of the ready-to-wear jacket'. They choose their suits and wear them directly from the store. It is expected that senior males will complain about ready-to-wear formal suits due to the increase in girth item than normal type due to change of body shape since they consider size to also be important when purchasing suits. The most important part of the body when purchasing suits is the shoulder area, followed by the front width and back width of the fit. As for the degree of recognition of suit size, 38.1% said that they know the size and 'Suit size is hard to understand'. As a result of dissatisfaction with formal dressing, the items of 'Neck wide of get loose', 'Drag line of back neck', 'Not fit of front opening', 'Not fit of shoulder slope' and 'dissatisfaction'. Therefore, it is salient to establish suit fitting system and size system for senior men.

• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.149-157
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• 2016

For the Korean fashion industry to become more competitive, not only does it need to develop a higher value-added fashion products, but also needs to raise creative and professional talented people. The purpose of this study is to propose ways to develop new curriculum for education in the fashion design field by analyzing the degree of recognition about the importance of curriculum in fashion design. Based on the curriculums of fashion design field of universities, a survey was conducted using a questionnaire to measure the degree of importance and the degree of application for the curriculum of fashion design field. The study gathered data from 235 students from 6 universities in Seoul. Major conclusions of the study are as follows: First, preferred career courses after graduation were fashion designer for woman's or menswear, patterner. Second, clothing construction field is considered to be the most important subject in the present, while material planning field is considered to become the most important in the future. The fashion design field was evaluated as an important field in the present and the future. Third, fashion design, accessory design, fashion design CAD, fashion illustration were evaluated as important subjects and highly available for career. Fourth, fashion design CAD, fashion illustration, and textile design were evaluated as the courses that needed more emphasis. Flat sketch, spec sheet, on-the-job training were needed to be included. Fashion designer, and patterner were preferred for career courses. Clothing construction, material planning, and fashion design were evaluated as important fields. Accessory design, fashion design CAD, and fashion illustration were evaluated as important and highly available subjects for career. For the new curriculum in the fashion design field, more courses on fashion design CAD, fashion illustration, textile design and on-the-job training are needed.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.150-163
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• 2015

Due to desire for more variation from male consumers within the men's fashion market in Korea, there has been an ongoing development of departmentalization of fashion styles. The Generation-X man, in particular, is the most active member of our current day society, and will be the principal agent in the senior market from here on forth. Thus, this study categorized their preferred fashion styles, and will seek to analyze the behaviors related to the pursuit of clothing of the Generation-X man. The qualitative investigations of the Q-method as well as the quantitative investigation of the SPSS 12.0 were used in conjunction as the method of study. Additionally, images and types resulting from the preceding first-year study entitled "The Type and Characteristics of the Modern Men's Fashion Images" were utilized as part of the surveys. As a result of the Q-method, which was used to derive the preferred fashion styles of the Generation-X man, they were classified into three categories: the classic suit preferring 'conservative class type', the polished, comfortable style preferring 'modern sophisticated type', and the adventure and variety seeking 'uninhibited individualistic style'. After analyzing the factors which influence clothing preference behaviors of these men, a total of seven causes were drawn from the results, including: conservative indifference to fashion, others conscious pursuit of fashion, the aim to show off brand name products, high involvement in the aspect of design, pursuit of TPO, pursuit of self-image, and conformity to fashion. The elements that revealed differences in the behaviors in pursuing clothing within the preferred fashion style types of the Generation-X man included the conservative indifference to fashion, and others conscious pursuit of fashion, which therefore shows that rather than enjoying the fashion lifestyle, these men possess a more conservative disposition instead.

• 복식
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• 제64권7호
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• pp.29-44
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• 2014

This thesis aims to compare the representative costume patterns of the Chinese Qing dynasty and contemporary $18^{th}$ century French costumes. As a research method, qualitative research was performed to compare and analyze the patterns of the flowers, the birds and pagoda shown in Qing dynasty and France. The results are as follows: The Chinese flower patterns used the embroidery technique for 3-step gradation colors to decorate flowers with less than 10 petals. Also, the forms of the flowers were large and simple in China. The flower patterns of the 18th century France is more similar to those of Qing dynasty than to the traditional French flower patterns. They used the drawing technique for the gradation colors and completed the work by embroidery. In the case of bird patterns, the crane on menswear, and the phoenix on women's wear were applied to signify the symbolic feature of the Chinese symbolism. On the other hand, those in France were used solely for the division of the gender. As a result the clear form of the birds in China contrasted with the unclear forms of birds in France. During the influx of mandarine square to France from China, the application of crane and phoenix according to gender seems to be stressed emphatically without considering their symbolic meaning. In light of the pagoda pattern, Qing dynasty showed interest only in the form of pagoda, denoting the simple two-tier structure without detailed description. Whereas in France, the pagodas were three or four tiers, with gorgeous colors and much more detail than those of Qing dynasty. In conclusion, the main determinants of influences on the patterns of France from China would be forms, colors, constructions and technique of embroidery, along with the disregard for symbolic significance.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.134-147
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze fashion brands' contents and characteristics of the participation platform of users, to assess the types and strategies of mass customization(MC). Most fashion brands sell one professional content: Shoes brands were the most common, followed by bags, unisex wear, and menswear. In consumer's design selection elements, changes in color and materials were the most common. For the personalization service elements, monogram service was the most common. The results of MC types analysis were as follows, Customized Standardization was the most common, followed by Tailored Customization, Pure Customization, and Segmented Standardization. For the types according to changes in products and expression methods, Cosmetic was the most common. And the classification according to modulation, Modularizers were the most common. For Creativity, brands in the making stage were the most common. For Flexibility, although brands different methods, high flexibility by modularizing design elements of products and accomplishing various design through participation. The Ease of use for various expression was generally high, parallel to Flexibility. For Durability, because consumers could receive end products only when they participated in the assembly stage in the on-line purchase, their continuous participation was not possible, so they participated only once. The typical types and strategy of MC were analyzed. The Customized Standardization type was the most common in shoes, bag, and womenswear brands. It was the Cosmetic type which could change colors and materials, the Modularizers, and had high Flexibility and Ease of use and low Durability.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.410-421
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• 2018

The study is designed to develop a educational basic pants patterns for men, and has been analyzed focusing on the university textbooks published since 2000. We also used CAD programs and virtual fitting programs to analyze the fitness of pants. To do this purpose, after choosing 7 Men's Wear textbooks, selected patterns were drawn and measured using PAD system and were compared and analyzed. Also, the appearance evaluation was examined through virtual fitting and then evaluated 21 male and female university students in their 20s. After supplementing the problems of the patterns in the existing textbooks, a pattern was developed and verified the fitness of the developed pattern. The results of comparing the proposed measurement items of each textbook for the pants pattern indicated a significant differences in terms of hip circumference of each pattern, which were between 96~105cm. A comparison of the drafting methods of each pattern showed the drafting methods for the crotch length, the front crotch extension, the back crotch extension were the difference. The results of appearance evaluation were pattern E presented the slimmest fit and pattern D presented the loosest fit. As a result of analysis of pants pattern, a waist circumference 82cm, a hip circumference 98cm, a crotch length 24cm, a pants length 104cm and a ham line width 46cm were most suitable. The development pattern was evaluated as superior to the existing pattern through the appearance evaluation of the virtual fitting.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.327-340
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• 2015

Male skirt is found in traditional costumes all over the world. Due to the development of tailoring skills in the early Middle ages, men started wearing breeches and pantaloons gradually distinguishing the different characteristics of menswear and womenswear. Since then, skirt became the strong representation of the female gender, symbolizing the feminism. However, under the influences of technological development and diversification in 2000s, gender identity has been diversely expressed in modern fashion allowing male gender to embrace different sexual identities. The purpose of the study is to analyze the nature of male skirts, which have been popularized in modern men's fashion through both the expressional elements and compositional elements. This study associates design elements of male skirt, gradually appearing in the contemporary men's fashion with the sexual symbolism and reinterpreted it's significance in the flow of the modern fashion. Reinterpretation of the gender image in costumes are considered to contribute to the cultural context and extension in diversity. These research results forms a basic foundation to expand in studies of men's fashion design and gender image of costumes through cultural contexts and it's changes. It is considered that this can lay groundwork to make various attempts at passing over the archetype of the gender image besides the continuous appearance of male skirt in the field of fashion design.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.99-116
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• 2020

This study examines the characteristics of Paul Smith's fashion from the viewpoint of Habitus. To this end, on the theory of Bourdieu's Habitus concept and theory of the field, we derive the attributes of fashion and fashion designers and Habitus that appeared in fashion from the viewpoint of Habitus. Based on this, the tendency of Paul Smith's Habitus tendency has been examined and how it is expressed in fashion design and store production has been investigated. The scope of the study is from 1977 to the present, and it covers Paul Smith's menswear and stores. Research methods are literature research and visual data analysis. The results of the study are as follows. The characteristics of Habitus' tendency in Paul Smith are childlike imagination and humor, vigorous curiosity and observation, paranoid collection and memos, and British tradition and craftsmanship. Paul Smith's Habitus propensity reflects the following features in fashion design and store direction. First, a unique mix of wit or list structure, second, respect for uniqueness and discrimination with respect for the local image, and third, the new male image was presented to contribute to the diversification of consumers, and fourth, sensitivity and emotion reflecting his Habitus propensity. It is a friendly space for communication. As a result of analyzing and applying to Paul Smith, it was found that the special Habitus characteristics possessed by designers in fashion are important and impart a great influence.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.184-194
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.423-438
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• 2021

This study compared and analyzed the direction of Louis Vuitton creative directors Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh. Accordingly, 485 photos(251 Kim Jones, 234 Virgil Abloh) were collected. For data analysis, statistical and content analyses were combined. First, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Kim Jones, complex colors, colorful barrels, tone-in-tone color schemes, H-line, plain fabrics, soft materials, heterogeneous material combinations, casual style. Second, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Virgil Abloh, achromatic color, colorful tone, tone-on-tone color scheme, I-line, plain fabric, soft material, similar material combination, casual style. There were significant differences in color, tone, color scheme, silhouette, pattern, material type, material combination, fashion image, detail, trimming, top and bottom that differed in the creative directors' design direction. Therefore, it appears that Kim Jones has been directing the luxurious and unique men's wear through H-line, coat and slim pants, colorful color combination, soft material, heterogeneous material combination, plain fabric, and chic active sensibility. Meanwhile, Virgil Abloh is directing men's wear in a loose and trendy street mood through the I-line, jacket and wide pants, achromatic color, soft material, plain fabric, similar material combinations, and soft and sophisticated modern sensibility.