• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1709-1715
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• 2002

신사복 정장은 일상의 관습으로 착용되는 가장 중요한 항목으로서, 사무직, 관리 직, 전문직 등의 정신노동자들에 게 폭넓게 수용되는 매우 중요한 의복항목이 다. 따라서 소비자의 감성에 부합되는 신사복 개발을 위해 신사복 디자인에 대한 감성연구가 필요하다. 이에 본 연구에서는 신사복 상의 디자인 개발을 위해서 소비자의 감성에 적합한 신사복 상의를 적절하게 표현해 줄 수 있는 감성 어휘를 추출하고 그 인자를 분석하였다. 요인분석 결과,7개 의 요인과 67개 의 감성 어휘 가 채택되었다. 선택된 감성어휘는 인자별로 대별하여 7개의 요인으로 묶어서 대표적인 요인명을 붙인 결과, 요인 1은 품위성 요인. 요인 2는 매력성 요인. 요인 3은 실용성 요인, 요인 4는 체형성 요인. 요인 5는 외관성 요인. 요인 6은 남성미 요인. 요인 7은 활동성 요인이라고 하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.433-445
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• 2017

This study uses a macro-viewpoint to investigate how female world leaders' clothing behaviors are different by nation and culture. This study conducted a comparative study on clothing behavior by cultural block in order to understand similarities and differences based on Hofstede's cultural dimensions theory. The findings are as follows. First, the clothing styles of female world leaders are categorized into classical suit style, national traditional style, and eclectic style. Second, classic suit style is more often found in countries characterized by high individualism, low power distance index, and low avoidance index. The style represents individual activity and rationality as well as trust towards women acting in men's roles. Third, a national traditional style is found in countries featuring high collectivism, high power distance index, and high uncertainty avoidance index. These countries share a culture that emphasizes harmony with the whole, rather than any one given part; consequently, clothing style represents a national identity (or the roles as a national member) rather than that of the individual level. Fourth, an eclectic clothing style is expressed in a mixture of classical suits and a national traditional style that depends on how much Eastern and Western cultures are reasonably compromised or Eastern tradition and Western culture coexist.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.15-19
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to determine the thermal characteristics of men's suits ensembles and their fabrics. For the study, 100% wool fabrics were woven with various fabric structure, fabric density and yam count and With the use of these, 12 men's suits were made with the same design. Physical characteristics that affect thermal transport properties, including drapery, cover factor; bulk density, keeping warmth ratio, vapor permeability, air permeability and porosity of the fabrics were measured. In addition, thermal resistance of men's suit ensembles, including Y-shirts, inner wear and socks was measured on the thermal manikin in the environmental chamber. The result of the study was as follows: 1. In terms of fabric structure, keeping warmth ratio of plain woven fabrics was higher than those of twill and satin woven fabrics and also, vapor and air permeability and porosity of plain woven fabrics were higher than those of twill and satin woven fabrics. 2. The result showed that thermal resistance of 12 ensembles were in the range of 0.77clo~0.97clo. 3. There was little correlation between woven condition such as, including structure, fabric density and yam count and thermal resistance of ensembles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.40-47
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• 2006

Three-dimensional body scanners were used for years in the clothing manufacturing fields. The 3D body surface provide essential data to draft patterns for mass customization, virtual fit model, and computerized patternmaking systems. This research proposed the methods of drafting patterns for men's jacket by using three dimensional body scan data. Eight male subjects were scanned, the surface data was flattened. The differentials of the flattened body surface and the jacket draft were measured, and analyzed the regressions. To verify the fit of the patterns, the jacket was constructed by the regression formulae and tested by experts. The fit of the jacket were significantly improved rather than a ready-made suit especially the shoulder areas. This means that the methods that we proposed were good to improve the fit of the garments and could be used effectively to implement mass customization strategies in the apparel retail industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.184-194
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.12
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• pp.1454-1465
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• 2011

Menswear body types are often labeled on garments (to indicate how the garments are designed to fit) with indicators of a size category such as regular, portly, and stout, athletic, or big and tall. A drop (relationships between the chest and waist girths) is related to the fit of a tailored suit. However, current standards are not designed for various drops or body types. There is not enough information of categorizing men's body shapes for the apparel sizing systems. In this article, a set of men's data from SizeUSA sizing survey was analyzed to investigate men's body shapes and drops. Factor analysis and a cluster analysis method were used to categorize men's body shapes. In the results, twenty-five variables were selected through the factor analysis and found four factors: girth factor, height factor, torso girth factor, and slope degree factor. According to the factor and cluster analysis, various body shapes were found: Slim Shape (SS - tall ectomorphy), Heavy Shape (HS - athletic, big & tall, endomorphy and mesomorphy), Slant Inverted Triangle Shape (SITS - regular, slight ectomorphy and slight mesomorphy weight range from normal to slightly overweight), Short Round Top Shape (SRTS - portly and stout, endomorphy). Body shapes were related to fitting categories. SS and HS were related to big & tall fitting category. SITS was related to regular. SRTS was related to portly and stout. Shape 1 (31%) and Shape 2 (26%) were related to current big & tall category. Shape 3 (34%) were related to regular. Shape 4 (9%) were in portly and stout category. ASTM D 6240 standard was the only available standard that presented a regular fitting category. Various drops were found within a same chest size group; however, this study revealed great variances of drops by body shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.181-195
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• 1992

The purposes of this study were to investigate 1) the effect of body exposure and color of a woman's suit on the perception of modesty, and 2) the effect of perceiver's sex and age on impression formed by the function of clothing variables. The instrument of this study consisted of a response scale and stimuli. Thirteen items of 7-point semantic differential scales were developed to measure the perceiver's impression on wearer's modesty. Stimuli were color pictures of a model wearing one of 8 types of suit constructed by a 2 $\times$ 2 $\times$ 2 factorial design. The manipulation of each level of the clothing variables were: color of the suit by black and red, leg exposure by varying skirt lengths to a Chanel-line and mini skirt, and neck exposure by shirt collar blouse and scarf. Two models, representing typical female college students living in Seoul, were selected to eliminate model effect. The sample include 384 subjects, consisting of 4 groups of male and female college students and middle aged men and women. Eight experimental groups were randomly assigned to one of eight stimuli based on between-subject design. One half of each group responded to model 1 and the other half to model 2 of same stimulus. Responses to the semantic differential scales were factor analyzed (pc model, Varimax rotation) to identify factors constructing impression of modesty. Two factors emerged regard­less of subgroups; Elegance and Extroversion factor. The first factor was found to be dominant, accounting for 60 percent of the total variance. The other accounted for just 11 percent. Multidimensional ANOVA (5-way, 3-way) was conducted to test the effect of the clothing variables against two factors identified from the factor analysis. Leg exposure was the most powerful variable affecting the impression of Elegance and Extroversion factor for all per. ceiver subgroups. Neck exposure had primary effect on the impression of Elegance, whereas it partially influenced that of Extroversion. Color of suit had only partial effect on the impression of Extroversion. Hypothesis I was partially supported from the findings above. The effect of perceiver's age and sex on impression by the function of clothing variables was tested by comparing the result between four subgroups. In forming an impression of the wearer's modesty, male college students were least affected by the manipulation of clothing variables, while middle aged males were affected most. In the female groups, there was no age difference and they fell between the male groups in the degree to which they were affected. Hypothesis II was supported only by age difference in two male groups, and by sex difference in two student groups.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.57-75
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• 2001

Since the Korean economic crisis in 1997, consumers are selecting goods that are more economical and more reasonably priced. Markets for wealthy people, however, have seldom been influenced by economic conditions. Consequently, 'noble marketing' is a new term that marketers should become acquainted with (Kim, 1998). The continuously expanding 'noble market' that generates high profit for marketers needs to be explored, especially the men's wear market. This study adopted a qualitative method (i.e., in-depth interview) with 16 male consumers each. These men who spent more than 3,600,000 won on apparel goods in 2000 and each man had purchased at least one item-suit, jacket, trousers, or coat-from a list of high-priced brands that were selected by the researcher. Findings imply that material or functional benefit of the high-priced apparel were not a critical determinant for choosing the brand. Rather, a socially well-established image for the brand name, especially in terms of psychological/symbolic appeal, played a more important role. This finding supported previous studies. Therefore, for high-priced men s wear, the role of promotion, including advertising or word of mouth, is critical; the image that advertisers should promote is one that characterizes the clothing, and ultimately the wearers, as dignified, legitimate, traditional, and upper class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.298-309
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• 2003

This paper was done to identify the types and the characteristics of street fashion of men living in world fashion-leading cities. 608 male photos taken on the main streets of 4 world fashion-leading cities such as London, New York, Paris, Tokyo were used as data. Photos were viewed by students and classified according to overall images and the common aspects of characteristic style. Fashion images of male were classified into 11 groups, which were suits, casual, hip-hop, rockers/punks, hippies, ethnic, western, military, new romantic, skirt, androgynous. Frequency distribution showed that casual image was mostly preferred and 1311owe4 by suit, rocker/punks. Military and hippies were least favored. In each category, almost every style looked unique and creative as a result of mixing and cross-coordination of different clothing items.