• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.136-145
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• 2009

Growing needs of reducing energy consumption and enhancing creative thinking brought expanding of men's business wear market into more trendy and casual sector. As fashion trend of men's business wear has changes to casual jackets, there is need to study for the inner structure of casual jacket. The inner structure of casual jackets are different from conventional tailored jackets so that they can provide more comforts, functionality and characteristic style. The purpose of this study is to find out how the inner structure of casual jackets are made up by comparing jackets of various brands. In order to categorize the construction methods, where, how and what kind of lining, interlining, sleeve heads and shoulder pads are applied were studied. Although there are considerable varieties in making up methods, it could be concluded that casual jackets have lighter and less time and labour consuming inner structure, i.e. partial linings, fusible inter-linings, ready made sleeve heads and shoulder pads.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권4호
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• pp.133-144
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• 2006

The contemporary period is called "the age of sensibility" in which each individual consumer seeks to have her or his own products. Businesses are in need of design developments with an emphasis on customer sensitivity, and at the same time consumers must understand their own sensitivity to acquire information on designs that suit them. This research established a sensitivity and configuration database on designing men's jackets using the sensitivity engineering approach to clothing design information. The user interface was created on the Internet. Sixty-seven sensitivity terms of vocabulary appropriate for the assessment of men's jacket design were selected, and the different designs were classified into six items and 24 categories. Thirty men's jackets with different designs were produced for sensory testing and the results were analyzed in accordance with general linear I statistics. A sensitivity database was established for each category. My-sql, PHP, Java Script, and Html were used for the configuration database work. The configuration of items/categories, with the most appropriate sensitivity database information assigned to the selected sensitivity vocabulary, was programmed for display on the computer screen. The sensitivity vocabulary of a customer's choice for each factor was selected for the program to run, while the category and product configuration of the men's jacket most suitable for the search was displayed based on the user interface.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.184-194
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.59-72
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• 2014

This study provides the structural design for commercialization of outdoor breathable waterproof jackets for men merged with solar cells to enable emergency communications, utilizing wearable devices to develop smart clothing and extend convenience in everyday life. The most popular waterproof jacket with two-layer and three-layer moisture-permeable waterproof fabric was selected, based on previous studies of functional outdoor jackets and style with affinity to fashion. Flexible solar films suitable for clothing were embedded in the lining of the sleeve area and hood visor, and printed film was developed to balance weight and design. High performance smart solar jackets have application to expanding the use of smart phones for everyday and emergency communication, and leisure and outdoor sports activities, as well as day-to-day functions as a waterproof breathable outdoor jacket for men. It is also eco-friendly. Satisfying both the aesthetic and practical, a solar cell jacket with smart features, is an innovative tool for use in a variety of outdoor activities, and a fashion-forward commercialized product.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.399-411
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• 2016

This research reviewed the developmental process of domestic outdoor wear and later analyzed the images given out by men's outdoor wear. The research results are as follows. First, military supplies left by American soldiers were dyed or reformed and then worn, and daily wear were mainly worn in the 1960s. Wears made from light and waterproof materials were worn and equipments were used in the 1970s. High functioning materials which allowed simultaneous breathability, waterproof and thermal insulation functions were used for wears in the 1980s. For the jacket especially, functionality was enhanced sith zippers, snaps and velcro to prevent cold air penetration in the 1990s. Florescent piping decorations and logo decorations, and prints and colors which reflected the trend, were used to emphasize fashionity and decorativeness in the 2000s. Second, Sophisticated image emphasized urban feeling with toned-down windbreaker jackets without much detail, with down jacket and pants. Casual image expressed a relaxed feeling with windbreaker jacket, shirts, jumper, vest and pants made of cotton, mesh knit and denim. Active image emphasized functionality by brightly colored windbreaker jackets, down jacket and pants. Ethnic image expressed an exotic mood with windbreaker jackets with stylized prints, with jumper, down jacket and pants. Military image showed a strong masculine feeling with jackets adorned with epaulettes, khaki colors and camouflage prints, with jumper, T-shirts, vest, shorts and pants. Avantgarde image exuded an experimental and unique feeling with jackets made of various colors and materials, such as cotton, jersey and glossy materials, with down jacket and jersey pants.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.626-634
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• 2015

This study analyzes the wearing and purchasing conditions of outdoor jackets by senior men who are over 50s, and examines product sizes of outdoor jackets in the market. A total of 134 questionnaires and sizing systems (or product size) of 10 outdoor brands were used as analytical data. The results were: a high number of senior men enjoyed hiking as an outdoor activity, with most of them following this activity1-3 times per month and as a preferred personal activity for over 5 years. Most needed outdoor wear suitable for these daily life activities. Outdoor wear satisfaction tends to decrease as people age. The major reason for the dissatisfaction with outdoor wear was price. Senior men aged 50s and 60s emphasize design and color when purchasing outdoor wear; however, men in their 70s considered price a priority. Senior men preferred outdoor brands based on a comfortable fit. An investigation on 10 outdoor brands indicated that they had not designated a specific target customer. A comparison of the product size of outdoor jackets with a similar silhouette indicated some deviations among sizes; however, the age of customers was not considered. The human body tends to shrink in stature and increase in girth as a person ages; consequently, we need to reflect body shape changes and senior's size in outdoor wear.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.207-220
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• 2006

The purpose of the study is to develop the basic pattern of casual jacket for men aged between 25 and 34. Compared to the tailored jackets, casual jackets are designed much more diverse form depending on the target customer, price range and moreover fashion trend. Therefore in order to reduce the cost and time of developing new style, pattern draft from the basic pattern is better approach rather than develop each style form the measurements every time. For men's casual jacket pattern draft, the basic pattern of fit and comfort was developed through following research procedures. 173 men were surveyed about their habit of buying and wearing of casual jackets. MDs and pattern designers of 10 casual wear brands for men were interviewed. As a starting point, 3 different basic patterns were selected. 2 patterns were from the 2 interviewed brands and the last one was the pattern of ESMOD. The 3 patterns were studied by means of comparing measurements and general styling. As a results it was found that the pattern of S brand is featuring I silhouette, the pattern of K brand is featuring H silhouette and the pattern of ESMOD is featuring Y silhouette. The results of wearing test showed that the pattern of S brand is the best among the three. They were to add ease around the chest line and waist line, to relocate the waist line and the break point, to increase the jacket length and upper arm width. The improved pattern was made of polyester for the wearing test. The wearing test showed developed pattern was improved significantly. To verify the use of developed basic pattern, two buttoned single jacket was made.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.946-957
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• 2003

This study aimed to suggest a simple and well-fitting flat pattern drafting method for a men's jacket. Four jackets in thick muslin were made from four different drafting methods utilizing a few measures as breast girth, center back length, and chest width, which were not much different from the drafting methods of woman's jacket. The appearance of the 4 jackets was evaluated by a pool of evaluators consisted of graduate students who had much clothing construction teaching experiences and their motion adaptability was evaluated by two wearers who belonged within the range of the average measures of the Korean male figure as reported from the 1997's Census for Standard Body Measure. A drafting method evaluated as the most well-fitting and well-functioning in general was chosen and modified to enhance the appearance and was reevaluated to confirm its fit improvement. As a result of this study, a new drafting method, simple and not much different from that of a woman's jacket pattern drafting method is proposed. Since this method is based on the minimal measures and ratios thereof, and is not as complicated as ordinary drafting methods for men's wear, the researcher expects that this drafting method allows more chances for the students to learn and understand men's wear more easily and comfortably.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제12권12호
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• pp.577-586
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• 2012

이 연구는 진재킷과 진팬츠에 관한 연구로 패션컬렉션에 제시된 진재킷과 진팬츠의 디자인 특성을 분석하고 활용 가능성을 모색함으로써 진패션 디자인 연구와 패션산업의 상품 기획에 기초자료를 제공하고자 한다. 2007년 S/S시즌에서 2011년 F/W시즌까지의 사진을 수집하여 통계프로그램 SPAW를 활용하여 빈도, 백분율을 사용하여 분석하였다. 연구 결과를 요약하고 결론을 정리하면 다음과 같다. 남성의 진재킷에서 심플한 디테일에 미디움길이, 사각형실루엣을 활용하고, 여성은 여성스러움을 강조한 X자형 실루엣과 쇼트길이의 다양한 디테일을 활용한다. 남성의 진팬츠는 스트레이트 실루엣과 컴포트 실루엣으로 활용하고 여성은 다양한 실루엣, 피트, 길이로 다양한 이미지로 진을 활용할 수 있을 것이다.