• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.136-148
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• 1998

This is a study on the change of the Medievalmen's underclothes. Underclothing includes all such articles, worn by either sex, as were completely or mainly concealed from the spectator by the external costume. Throughout the Middle Ages, the underclothing of both sexes possessed characteristic inherited from earlier times. Its function was purely utilitarian. It was not used to express class distinction and only very indirectly to enhance sex attraction. The idea of underclothes was associated with the idea of the body's sinfulness. Underclothes could also symbolize the discipline of humility. To appear clad only in underclothes was a voluntary form of selfabasement often practised by pilgrims. The notion that underclothes might express the spirit of the changing times, in sympathy with the outer clothing, did not enter the medieval mind. The length of the shirt was less than that of the modern garment, especially after the middle of the fourteenth century. The sleeves were somewhat full, without cuffs, and cut straight. During the second half of the twelfth century, when braies become definitely an undergarment. In the fourteenth century braies became shorter and shorter and the shirt could no longer be tucked in but hung outside over the thighs. After 1340 the costume on the surface somewhat resembling modern 'tights', began to reveal display the shape of the male leg as a form of sex attraction. By the close of the Middle Ages, braies had become less like loincloths, and more like modern bathing trunks. The peasant and laborer did not attempt to keep pace with the changes of fashion but, continued, as a rule, to wear the long braies of their forefathers. The higher ranks how this garment reflected the changes of the mode of outer costumes.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.181-195
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• 2000

This study was conducted from Sep., 1999. to Nov., 1999. It researched approximately 60 specialized manufacturers who had homepages on the Internet. Of the 60 manufacturers, 20 of them were chosen for the study all of whom had relatively were made homepages that were geared towards sales. 1. Daily Hanboks on the homepages were put in an electronic catalog. They were photographed and well described. Each picture could be enlarged when needed. 2. The Hanbok's were made for men, women and children. There were every couple's Hanboks. The Hanboks used natural material, mixed spinning and chemical textile, which was easily kept and washed. It was intended, as clothes for everyday wear Silk was used for formal clothes. 3. The prices ranged from low-middle to high clothing for everyday life is reasonable and street wear and formal dresses are priced high. The color of the dresses are not vibrant, but natural and light. As Hanboks become more in demand, there will be more choices available. 4. As matter of the sizes shows weakness. In general they use the western size system. The purpose of this study is to show the direction that Hanbok manufacturers may take for the internet sales and for being more active to promote the spread of the dress. This research came to the fellowing conclusion. Even though Hanbok manufacturers operate homepages. it seems that they are not well used. However, many internet shopping malls have been opened and they have put Daily Hanboks into one of their sales categories. The internet malls are getting more active and are expanding more. Therefore the market value of the Hanboks in the future look optimistic. If smaller sized manufacturers of Daily Hanbok's establish cooperative network that have no time and space limit, they can use the strong power of the market as the market development for Daily Hanboks is endless.

• 복식
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• 제65권7호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2015

This study is aimed to better understand the lifestyle and fashion trend of Korea in 1954 and 1955, a period right after the Korean War. The study examined "The Journey of Duty", which was a color slide film of Seoul and Suwon made by a US soldier stationed in Korea during that time, as well as various documents. The films are assumed to be outcomes of the US Army wanting to record the situation in Korea, and the study was able to use 110 of the slides to examine the fashion trend of the times. There are three noticeable trends shown on "The Journey of duty". Koreans in western clothes, women wearing work pants called Momppae, and black color being in fashion. Most of the men and the children either wore only western clothes or western clothes with the Hanbok. But women rarely wore western-style clothing, such as blouse with skirt. They usually wore Hanbok or wore reformed Hanbok. The work pants, Momppae, becoming an everyday wear is the most unique finding from the slides. Women either wore just the pants or over the traditional Korean skirt. Black-colored clothes were in fashion. This color first spread after the Costume Reform Movement in the 1920s' and the prohibition of white robe. The wearing of white clothes did increase after the Korean liberation in 1945, as national spirit was promoted. However, many people still wore black due to economic reasons, as we as practical reasons. So the Korean fashion in 1954-1955 was in a transition period, as people were beginning to change their daily wears from traditional Korean costumes to western-styled clothes. The reasons for this change could be attributed to people only having access to western goods, as well as their awareness of western-styled clothes being more practical.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.195-207
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• 2012

In South Korea, the growth of online shopping malls that are overtaking traditional offline distributors in sales requires the latter to concentrate on developing a variety of contents amidst the ever-changing and competitive market environment. First of all, attention should be paid to information on fashion item materials. This study examined the current status of online shopping malls with a focus on their three different types-specialized malls, general malls, and open markets-and investigated consumers' hedonic shopping motives and influence on fashion materials in terms of purchasing behavior. In doing so, this study surveyed men and women in their 20s-30s residing in Seoul or its surrounding cities and used a total of 255 questionnaires for statistical analysis. The statistical software program SPSS 15.0 was used to conduct frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, and multiple regression analysis. The study results showed that in general and specialized shopping malls, consumers granted greater reliability and importance to fashion materials when their interest in shopping or attention to fashion items/brands was high and when they wanted rare items. In open markets, the more interest consumers had in shopping and the more sensitive they were to fashion information, the more dependent they were on prices; in other words, prices were found to have a greater influence on their purchase decisions than the quality of fashion materials. The findings of this study would be useful to marketers and distributors who are trying to develop their marketing strategies based on fashion material information, according to the different types of online shopping malls.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.551-568
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• 2007

The purposes of this study were to identify factors of dissatisfaction and complaining behavior in internet fashion shopping mall, and to investigate constructs of service recovery for solution to this problems. Data were obtained from 201(male: 87, female: 114) internet fashion shopping mall consumer who have experiences of dissatisfaction and complaining behavior after buying products, and were analyzed using by descriptive analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach' $\alpha$, t-test. The results were as follows. First, the most response(80.4% of reponses) was experience to dissatisfaction through internet fashion shopping mall, and the most dissatisfied items were blouse, sweater, T-shirt in upper garment. Also, in men's case, the most satisfied price zone was not exceeding $30,000{\sim}50,000\;won$ and in women's case, it was not exceeding $20,000{\sim}30,000\;won$. Second, 7 factors of dissatisfaction(called quality, payment, delivery, price, interaction, returning/changing/refunding, contract) were identified after purchasing fashion products from internet shopping mall. 3 factors of complaining behavior(called private action, legal action, remedial seeking action) were investigated. Third, constructs of perceived service recovery were extracted from literature review: perceived interaction and justice. Perceived interaction were categorized into two factors: the interaction on the part of the consumer, the interaction in the part of the shopping mall. And perceived justice were categorized into three factors: interactional justice, distributive justice, procedural justice. Usually, university students were likely to take a serious view of service recovery through interaction and justice with internet fashion shopping mall.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.22-39
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• 2013

This thesis aims to investigate the characteristics of the civil costume in Netherlands women and the way how the civil culture was reflected on these by analyzing the women's costume depicted in the works of the Johannes Vermeer regarded as the representative painter of Netherlands in 17th century. The method of study was to select 24 pieces of Vermeer's works among the 30 pieces, and were analyzed in detail. These were approved to be common civil costumes by researching the works of other painters in that era on the other hand. The result shows that the civil costume of Netherlands women from 1653 until 1675 was in the simple form of two pieces dress, and minimal decorations with simple hair style and headdress would take the constitution of the frugality, chastity and practicality as the mainstream, along with using the red, yellow and blue as the primary three colors on to the costumes. These characteristics might be ascribed to the Netherlands civil culture influenced by the Calvinism that emphasized the frugality and chastity, denouncing the luxury with supporting the religion and morality. This trend was also noted in the men's costume, giving evidence of the intimate relationship between the costume, religion and civil culture. This thesis might be a help to elucidate the relationship between the costume and cultural society, and be a affordable tools to study the contemporary costume.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.37-60
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• 2021

Before the tenth century, the dress of elite women in and around China often reflected "Han" Chinese fashions and preferences. In funerary paintings and relief sculptures of Sogdian and Xianbei couples from the sixth century, for example, women wear "Han" Chinese-style clothing. Even in the Tang dynasty (ca. 618-907), when exchange with Central Asia via overland Silk Road trade impacted the styles and patterning of elite dress and men incorporated clear Central Asian attributes into their dress, elite women in the Tang sphere wore recognizably Tang fashions. Chinese-style dress in these centuries clearly conveyed cultural import and, likely, political power, especially after the founding of the Tang dynasty. However, the straightforward borrowing of Tang women's dress shifted in the Khitan Liao dynasty (ca. 907-1125). The Liao, in contrast to other states that shared a border with China in previous centuries, saw themselves as political equals to the Song dynasty (ca. 960-1278) court in the south. The Liao court was interested in Song customs and culture and incorporated artistic motifs and practices from the Song court. However, the Liao courtly idiom was never fully subsumed into the greater world of the Song - rather, the Liao used facets of Song courtly culture for their own ends. One way this is manifested is through the dual administrative system, a bureaucratic organization that, among other things, regulated and distinguished between who was permitted to wear Khitan and non-Khitan dress. In this paper, I will examine the material evidence from funerary contexts for how the dress of elite Liao women both engaged with the dress of the Song, while also maintaining a certain amount of cultural autonomy. Through their dress, elite Liao women signaled clear messages about their status, identity, and difference to their Song counterparts.

• 복식
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• 제43권
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• pp.203-224
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• 1999

As androgny presented by feminism still appear in contemporary fashion since mid 1980's feminism as a social phenomenon can be considered to habe influenced fashion history. This paper surveys the sex images of androgynous look that appeared in contemporary fashion into bisexual image and neutral images based on the feminist aspects of changes in contemporary fashion. As stated above bisexual images and neutral images of androgynous look shown in clothing are an attempt to reach one single integrated complete being by overacoming 'femininity' or 'masculinity' and combining the element of the two sexes. Consequently androgynous look creates new attraction by harmoniously coordinating characteristics of the two sexes instead of totally differentiating between masculinity and femininity that are represented in the form of clothing that has conceptual visual characteristics. Following are the conclusions of the reseach of this paper. First 'androgynous' as a feminist sex concept reflects the spirit of the times. Since the sex roles are divided and diversified and the concept of femininity is changing the concept of androgyny requiring both masculine and feminine characteristics in an essential sex concept for sucessful conduct of roles in a complex modern society. Second the integrated human image of androgynous look has led to a new culture with fashion trends that has been ahead of times by curing the functions of fashion to differentiate between men and women. Third androgynous look at the turn-of-the-centuy will not cease to exist but be a lasting fashion phenomenon while the sex concept presented by feminism has become the core to destrov the dichotomous fashion style of the 20th century. Fourth androgynous look is expressed in various manners in contemporary fashion since it shown how human beings accipt the adaptation method desperately required by the contemporary times. Androgynous look can be viewd as the desire for ultimate freedom that can be acquired by destroying the dichotomous sex concept and as the will to become a subject of the world as integrated human being. As we look into fashion culture creation of fashion is not the result of an accidental cause or an individual's work but the reflection of the spirit of the times. In this sense androgynous look introduced by a new sex concept to contemporary fashion has reflected the spirit of the times and led the cultural atmosphere and moreover it is an important fashion style that can characterize the contemporary times while lasting in the future.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.921-937
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• 2013

Sportswear brands in particular have been intensely competing to get an opportunity to prove the value of their new technology and products through sports sponsorship. The purpose of this study was to examine the relationship among sports involvement, the attitude toward sports sponsorship carried by sportswear brands, brand equity, and purchase intention of the products of the sponsor's brand. The study was implemented though a descriptive survey method using a questionnaire. The sample consisted of 455 men (n=289) and women (n=166) in their twenties, residing in Seoul and Gyeonggi area. Data were analyzed by confirmatory factor analysis, correlation analysis, and path analysis of structural equation modeling. The results revealed that sports involvement has an influence on the consumers' attitudes toward sports sponsorship performed by sportswear brands. Also, the sports sponsorship attitude of consumers had an influence on the brand equity and purchase intention toward the sponsor's brand products. It was notable that the attitude toward the manner of sponsoring of the sponsor than the contents itself of the sports event sponsored had an influence more on brand loyalty. Among the component factors of brand equity, brand loyalty showed the biggest impact on purchase intention. Considering the results, in order for sports sponsorship to be more effective, sports involvement of the target market should be considered more carefully.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.93-103
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• 1999

This study is intended to propose the new design course on Contemporary folk Hanbok by researching their preference to Contemporary folk Hanbok. To do so, the definition of styles, preference in details and fitness for the occasion to wear Contemporary folk Hanbok were evaluated and analyzed. The collected materials were investigated in quality and content. As for the data, five Contemporary folk Hanbok brands, in the city were selected and twenty styles from catalog were extracted. The subjected of study were 219 university students living in Seoul and Kwang-ju, Mok-po. they answered the questionnaires, the results of study were following: 1) In style of Contemporary folk Hanbok, there were positive support on longer Jeogori than traditional one and a seamless one-piece skirt at the length of ankle. But they had the negative thought of various spapes shapes related to the styles of Contemporary folk Hanbok. 2) In a view point of coloring on women's Contemporary folk Hanbok, the student supported the saturation more than special preference to similarity or contrast harmony. Students liked the harmony of achromatic colors or same colors up and down which are not traditional 3) In men's Contemporary folk Hanbok, students were for the harmony of same colors in up and down, preferring wool/polyester to cotton or silk100% (traditional materials) in materials 4) It indicates that what students thought generally of the occasional appropriateness of Contemporary folk Hanbok didn't match with the choice of proper occasion on preferred style. The western clothes have difference in design, material, color and manners of co-ordination related to ordinary cloths and out wear, but Contemporary folk Hanbok don't have these difference. Therefore, it is needed to develop the expensive designs discriminated between ordinary clothes and out wear in design, material, color and co-ordination corresponding to the every day life style.