Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2013.17.4.22

The Civil Culture and the Civil Costume of Netherlands Women in the 17th Century through the works of Johannes Vermeer  

Bae, Soojeong (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam National University)
Publication Information
Journal of Fashion Business / v.17, no.4, 2013 , pp. 22-39 More about this Journal
Abstract
This thesis aims to investigate the characteristics of the civil costume in Netherlands women and the way how the civil culture was reflected on these by analyzing the women's costume depicted in the works of the Johannes Vermeer regarded as the representative painter of Netherlands in 17th century. The method of study was to select 24 pieces of Vermeer's works among the 30 pieces, and were analyzed in detail. These were approved to be common civil costumes by researching the works of other painters in that era on the other hand. The result shows that the civil costume of Netherlands women from 1653 until 1675 was in the simple form of two pieces dress, and minimal decorations with simple hair style and headdress would take the constitution of the frugality, chastity and practicality as the mainstream, along with using the red, yellow and blue as the primary three colors on to the costumes. These characteristics might be ascribed to the Netherlands civil culture influenced by the Calvinism that emphasized the frugality and chastity, denouncing the luxury with supporting the religion and morality. This trend was also noted in the men's costume, giving evidence of the intimate relationship between the costume, religion and civil culture. This thesis might be a help to elucidate the relationship between the costume and cultural society, and be a affordable tools to study the contemporary costume.
Keywords
Johannes Vermeer; Netherlands; civil costume; civil culture; paintings;
Citations & Related Records
연도 인용수 순위
  • Reference
1 P. Bonafoux(1992), Johannes Vermeer, Choi, M.(trans), Yulhwadang, p.92.
2 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.65.
3 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.55.
4 Oh Gwangsoo(1976), Vermeer, Gumsung Publishing Co., p.91.
5 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.47.
6 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.46.
7 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.42.
8 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.43.
9 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.44.
10 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.80.
11 P. Bonafoux(1992), Johannes Vermeer, Choi, M.(trans), Yulhwadang, p.76.
12 P. Bonafoux(1992), Johannes Vermeer, Choi, M.(trans), Yulhwadang, p.122.
13 "Pieter de Hooch", Wikipedia, Retrieved 2013. Mar. 9, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pieter_de_Hooch
14 "Pieter de Hooch", Wikipedia, Retrieved 2013. Mar. 9, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pieter_de_Hooch, p.151.
15 F. Boucher(1983), A History of Costume in the West, Thames & Hudson, p.260.
16 P. Bonafoux(1992), Johannes Vermeer, Choi, M.(trans), Yulhwadang, p.100.
17 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.97.
18 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.96.
19 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.111.
20 "Virginal", Wikipedia, Retrieved 2013, Feb. 14, from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virginal
21 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.38.
22 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.51.
23 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.50.
24 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.49.
25 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.59.
26 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.57.
27 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.56.
28 P. Bonafoux(1992), Johannes Vermeer, Choi, M.(trans), Yulhwadang, p.69.
29 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.129.
30 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.40.
31 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.52.
32 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.53.
33 P. Bonafoux(1992), Johannes Vermeer, Choi, M.(trans), Yulhwadang, p.121.
34 K. Yoriko, K. Yuriko(2003), Vermeer, Solve the Secret of Fascination, Choi, J. H(trans), Dolbegae, p.90.
35 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.41.
36 Oh Gwangsoo(1976), Vermeer, Gumsung Publishing Co., p.75.
37 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, pp.22-23.
38 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.70.
39 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.81.
40 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.80.
41 K. Yoriko, K. Yuriko(2003), Vermeer, Solve the Secret of Fascination, Choi, J. H(trans), Dolbegae, pp.10-11.
42 P. Bonafoux(1992), Johannes Vermeer, Choi, M.(trans), Yulhwadang, p.111.
43 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.91.
44 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.95.
45 K. Yoriko, K. Yuriko(2003), Vermeer, Solve the Secret of Fascination, Choi, J. H(trans), Dolbegae, p.9.
46 T. Brook(2008), Vermeer's Hat: The Seventeenth Century Dawn of the Global World, Bloomsbury Press, pp.42-43.
47 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.90.
48 K. Yoriko, K. Yuriko(2003), Vermeer, Solve the Secret of Fascination, Choi, J. H(trans), Dolbegae, p.72.
49 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.105.
50 P. Bonafoux(1992), Johannes Vermeer, Choi, M.(trans), Yulhwadang, p.52.
51 K. Yoriko, K. Yuriko(2003), Vermeer, Solve the Secret of Fascination, Choi, J. H(trans), Dolbegae, p.73.
52 P. Bonafoux(1992), Johannes Vermeer, Choi, M.(trans), Yulhwadang, p.112.
53 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.65.
54 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.36.
55 A. Daniel(2005), L'Ambition de Vermeer, Kang Sungin (translator), Maronie Books, p.27.
56 A. Daniel(2005), L'Ambition de Vermeer, Kang Sungin (translator), Maronie Books, pp.43-44.
57 G. Vanzype(1925), Vermeer De Delft, Chong Jingook (translator), Gulhangari, p.56.
58 F. Boucher(1987), A History of Costume in the West, Thames & Hudson, p.271.
59 J. Laver(1982), Costume & Fashion, Thames & Hudson, p.105.
60 J. Laver(1982), Costume & Fashion, Thames & Hudson, p.107.
61 J. Laver(1982), Costume & Fashion, Thames & Hudson, pp.108-109.
62 G. Vanzype(1925), Vermeer De Delft, Chong Jingook (translator), Gulhangari, p.24.
63 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.167.
64 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, pp.87-91.
65 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.127.
66 K. Yoriko, K. Yuriko(2003), Vermeer, Solve the Secret of Fascination, Choi, J. H(trans), Dolbegae, p.58.
67 K. Yoriko, K. Yuriko(2003), Vermeer, Solve the Secret of Fascination, Choi, J. H(trans), Dolbegae, pp.55-56.
68 K. Yoriko, K. Yuriko(2003), Vermeer, Solve the Secret of Fascination, Choi, J. H(trans), Dolbegae, p.59.
69 K. Yoriko, K. Yuriko(2003), Vermeer, Solve the Secret of Fascination, Choi, J. H(trans), Dolbegae, p.174.
70 K. Yoriko, K. Yuriko(2003), Vermeer, Solve the Secret of Fascination, Choi, J. H(trans), Dolbegae, pp.71-72.
71 N. Schneider(2005), Jan Vermeer, Chong Jingook (translator), Maronie Books, p.20.
72 P. Bonafoux(1992), Johannes Vermeer, Choi, M.(trans), Yulhwadang, p.29.
73 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.71.
74 Lee Hansoon(2006), "Rembrandt's Group Portraits and Burgher Ambition I", The MISULSAHAKBO: Review on the Art History, 26(1), pp.61-92.
75 Ma Sunja(2000), "17th Century Netherlands Painter's Social Status", Art History, 14(1), pp.115-138.
76 Cho Junhee(2011), "The Emblem Books of Jacob Cats and the Dutch Burgerlijkheid in the Golden Era", The Journal of Western History, 45(1), pp.175-234.
77 Park Mihun(2007), "A Study on the Images of Women Drinking Wine in 17th Century Dutch Genre Painting", Journal of Association of Western Art History, 17(1), pp.105-137.
78 Lee Hansoon(2002), "Jan Mijtens' Willem van den Kerckboven and his Family: A Dutch Family Portrait", Journal of Association of Western Art History, 26(1), pp.72-93.
79 "Dutch East India Company", Wikipedia, Retrieved 2012. Aug. 9, http://ko.wikipedia.org/wiki/%EB%84%A4%EB%8D%9C
80 "Hendrick Hamel", Wikipedia, Retrieved 2012, Aug. 10, from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hendrick_Hamel
81 "Netherland", Wikipedia, Retrieved 2012. Aug. 9, from http://ko.wikipedia.org/wiki/%EB%84%A4% EB%8D %9C%EB%9E80
82 K. Yoriko, K. Yuriko(2003), Vermeer, Solve the Secret of Fascination, Choi, J. H(trans), Dolbegae, p.32.
83 Cho Junhee(2011), "The Emblem Books of Jacob Cats and the Dutch Burgerlijkheid in the Golden Era", The Journal of Western History, 45(1), pp.221-232.
84 Cho Junhee(2011), "The Emblem Books of Jacob Cats and the Dutch Burgerlijkheid in the Golden Era", The Journal of Western History, 45(1), pp.214-220.
85 Cho Junhee(2011), "The Emblem Books of Jacob Cats and the Dutch Burgerlijkheid in the Golden Era", The Journal of Western History, 45(1), pp.34-35.
86 Ma Sunja(2000), "17th Century Netherlands Painter's Social Status", Art History, 14(1), p.115.
87 Yoo Julee, Cho Ohsoon(1997), "A Study on the Costumes of Netherlands in the 17th Centuries", Journal of Human Ecology, 1(1), pp.7-21.
88 "Calvinism", Wikipedia, Retrieved 2013. Mar. 11, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calvinism
89 R. D'Adda(2004), Vermeer, Lee, K. A.(trans). Yekyong, p.8.
90 K. Yoriko, K. Yuriko(2003), Vermeer, Solve the Secret of Fascination, Choi, J. H(trans), Dolbegae, pp.79-80.
91 Yoo Julee(1998), "A Study on the Civil Costume Appeared ont Dutch Paintings in the 17Th Centuty", Changwon National University master's dissertation.
92 Yoo Julee, Cho Ohsoon(1999), "A Study on the Civil Costumes Appeared on the Dutch Paintings in the 17th Century", Journal of Fashion Business, 3(2), pp.37-47.   과학기술학회마을