• Title/Summary/Keyword: men's dress

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A Study on the Costumes of the Terracotta Warriors at the Tomb of Qin Shi Huang (진시황릉(秦始皇陵) 출토(出土) 병용(兵俑)의 복식(服飾) 연구(硏究) -호복(胡服)과의 관련성을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, So-Hyeon;Cho, Kyu-Wha
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.17 no.1
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    • pp.49-62
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    • 1993
  • This study intends to find out the correspondence of the costumes of the terracotta warriors at the tomb of Qin Shi Huang to the dress of nomadic people. The Chinese took the dress of nomadic people into their costumes so that they might practise shooting arrows from horse back in the Age Of Wars. The terracotta warriors at the tomb of Qin Sin Huang provide us with substantial evidence that Qin Dynasty inherited the system of wearing the dress of nomadic people from Zhao. Figures of calvarys wear the jackets of nomadic people, but figures of other warriors wear Han jackets. This means that the aim of taking the dress of nomadic people is to be convenient in practising shooting arrows from horse back. Nomadic people adjusted their jackets to left, because they road on a horse from left for being the tunga only on the left. But calvarys adjusted their jackets to right. In those days, China didn't have a tunga. So there was no necessity for riding from left. And Chinese were accustomed to adjusted their jackets to right. This is the reason why calvarys adjusted their jackets to right, though they wear the dress of nomadic people. Soldiers wear trousers. Some have puttee, some have their leg bounds. All the soldiers tightened their coats or jackets with belts which were inhereted from nomadic people. They wear either shoes or short boots. The figures are classified according to rank, espicially in their hats and armours. General wears a cap adorned with pheasant' feathers, officer wears an unadorned cap, and men are hatless or in turbans. Calvary's headgear looks like a p'ing-chin-tse which was correspondence to the headgear of nomadic people. Soldiers wear armours according to duty, and armours are differentiated by rank. From the state of terracotta warriors, I think that the warriors were made from BC 246 to BC 210 which is equal to the date of making the tomb of Qin Shi Huang. Then the date of making the terracotta warriors was between 60 and 100 years since the king Wu Ling of the state of Zhao took the dress of nomadic people.

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A Study on the Mods Look (모즈룩(Mods Look)에 관한 연구)

  • 정연자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.33
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    • pp.189-199
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    • 1997
  • The following contents are the results from the examination of unisex fetishism minimal and active which are Mods look. Unisex-becasue of the changing in musician and the role of sex Mods girl adopted much from men's clothing. The unisex mods look expressed in the 1990s is not the expression confronting the estab-lished value and the confusion of sex as it did in the '60s but possibly the appearance of a fashion trend. Fetishism-in the '60s the Mods look changed mens clothing into more wonman-like clothing which expressed their internal and external values of thinking. this fetishism phenomenon is also strongly expressed among the in the 1990s. This gives a future-orientid feeling by expressing with a modern sense the 60's fetish dress which used woman-like silhouettes bright and stretch fabric colorful and vivid tone. Minimal-The 60's Mods put on mini skirts called the revolution of length as a mode of re-sistance and mininmal dress as a way of ex-pressing the liberation of body and the con-sciousness of beauty. Minimal is reflected well on slim and fit jackets and pants and short and fit pants etc. mods look in the '90s also consists of the general trend of slim and fit silhouette. Active-Mods that reject the value of estab-lished generation in the 60s showed a sporty and casual trend on fashion. Mods works around clubs wore polo shirts and cadigan and Mods enjoys scooter often wore anorak parkas This active style of Mods approched to the young' casual with freshness expressing newly in the '90s polo shirts took a seat as an item of street fashion especially in the beginning of 1996. Mods in the 1960s shows well a fashion flow of the age as a street fashion which expresses the mental world reflected in politics econo-mics society and culture within the people of the age. These Mods looks revived in the early 1990's awaken an importance of the culture of the young as the cultural qualities included in Mods of the past life and this fashion trend expected to take a part as a symbol of fashion culture.

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A Study on the Adaptive Dress for the Disabled Ederly(2) - Nursing Facilities for the Ederly in Seoul and KyoungIn Area - (거동 불편 노인에 대한 기능성 의복 연구(2) - 서울, 경인 지역 노인 전문 요양 시설을 중심으로 -)

  • 홍나영;지윤영
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.8 no.6
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    • pp.899-914
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of the study was to provide the actual data for designing adaptive dresses for the disabled elderly. In order to get the data, we had 3 parts of the procedure as follows ; 1. The survey of 205 nursing-care providers who take care of the disabled elderly in 1999. 2. Measuring 10 measurements of 80 disabled men and women each, 160 samples. 3. On the basis of data above, developing the adaptive dresses and doing the wearing-tests of those. The results are as follows ; 1. The most popular style for the disabled elderly in nursing facilities was non-collar pajama's. Specially, pajama style was needed for the disabled elderly being sick in bed, one-piece style was required for the disabled eldery with dementia. And the most desirable fabric function was a physiological comfortability. The most proper price required was about 20,000 won. 2. As Korean apparel industry use K.S. sizing system, we decided to use the same measurement to categorize the samples, bust and height. And according to the frequency in the size chart, we suggested the production size for the disabled eldery men and women. 3. After developing these adaptive dresses, the results of wearing-tests showed two kinds of problems. One was that of the sleeve length ; Actually, for the disabled elderly, the longer than the production size is the better for them. The other problem was revealed from subsidiay materials, fasteners.

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A Study of Clothing Recorded in the[the Odes(詩經)](II)-About the Women's Clothing & Textiles- ([시경]에 나타난 복식자료 연구(II)-여자복식과 직물을 중심으로-)

  • 김문숙;이순원
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.44
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    • pp.5-17
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    • 1999
  • This paper studies women's clothing and textiles recorded in the『the Odes』, and refers research materials on the old commentaries about the『the Odes』and the various kinds of records and remains. The results regarding women's clothing in『the Odes』are follow: 1. Ti-i, Chin-i are the women's ceremonial dresses. Ti-i is a kind of the court dress and the shape is a long dress embroidered with pheasant. Chan-i belongs to the lower grade compared with the six ritual dresses worn by the queen and is made of Hu that is a kind of the white soft-wrinkled fabrics. 2. A women's I-Shang is composed of a blouse and a skirt. It is the classic style before the Sh n-I appears in China. Also we find that they use the standard colours for a blouse and the intermediate colours for a skirt in Chou period. 3. Chiung-I, Chiung-Shang and Hsieh-Pen are a kind of the robe put over the former garment made of Chin not to display to elegance. 4. Fu, Ch n-Fa, Pei and T'i are a kind of women's wig. Ti and the six-Chia are women's hair ornaments. Ch'i-Chin and Ju-L are a kind of the working women's turbun. 5. The women's belt ornaments are classified into the practical things and the decorational things like those for men. The results regarding fabrics in the『the Odes』are as follow: 1. The silk fabrics; There are Chin, Hu, Chou, Tz , Su, Hsiu. 2. The woolen fabrics; There is Ho. 3. The linen fabrics; There are the hemp and the ramie in the remains of Chou period. Also there are Ch'ih and Hsi categorized in Ko fabrics.

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A Study on the Movie Costume of the 「Bonnie and Clyde」 (영화 「우리에게 내일은 없다」의 의상분석)

  • Lim, Jaram;Lee, Jungsoon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.82-97
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    • 2016
  • This study attempted to summarize the characteristics of fashion in the 1930s which were the background of 'Bonnie and Clyde' and analyze how fashion in the 1930s was expressed through costume in the movie, focusing on some critical scenes. For this, previous studies and domestic & foreign books, magazines and DVDs relating to movie costume were examined. For analysis of movie costume, 'Bonnie and Clyde (1967)' DVD was referred to. In the movie, meaningful scenes were captured using a GOM Player. Then, the study results found the followings: First, in terms of women's fashion in the 1930s, adult look and slim & long silhouette which naturally revealed breast, waist and hip with a long skirt, a military look with strong shoulders and tailored costume were found. In terms of men's fashion, in contrast, the Duke of Windsor Style (a slim silhouette jacket and loose pants) was popular. Second, in the movie, Bonnie's costume started with a slim linen H-line dress at her first meeting with Clyde. While committing crimes and becoming a famous gangster, she displayed the fashion styles which were in vogue in the 1930s such as fancy and luxurious slim dress, tailored suit and trench coat. Third, in terms of Clyde's costume, from his first meeting with Bonnie to his first crime, he put on common costume (ex: pants, vest, shirts, etc.) which revealed his open and unconventional character. After he became a famous gangster, he would wear the Duke of Windsor style (jacket, vest and pants). The study results well describe movie costume's role as visual language which expresses characters' inner circumstances and outer situations that reflect socio-cultural background.

Analysis of Leigh Bowery's works through Bakhtin's discourse on the grotesque body (바흐친의 그로테스크 몸 담론을 통한 리 보워리의 작품 분석)

  • Kim, Hyun Jung;Yim, Eunhyuk
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.26 no.6
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    • pp.823-835
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    • 2018
  • The body is an important object of costume expression, and the reflection of the aesthetics of the body according to age, culture, individual or group determines the form of the costume. In particular, British artist Leigh Bowery provided many designers and celebrities with original design ideas. Leigh Bowery's costumes are related to the carnival concept. Thus, this study analyzed Leigh Bowery's life and works, and examined Michael Bakhtin's grotesque carnivalesque theory. Based on Bakhtin's carnival theory around 100 works by Leigh Bowery, in the form of YouTube videos and DVD clips were analyzed in this study. The results of the analysis Leigh Bowery's body and costume research are as follows. First, this study can define fetishism as a characteristic of costumes such as body suits, harnesses, high-heeled boots, and stockings, that stress the body. Second, the character of the body is not expressed as that of an idealized body, but the fat and ugly aspect are revealed. Third, Leigh Bowery's costumes are characterized by ambiguity. The costumes blur the boundaries between women and men. Fourth, common sense, combined with normal and bizarre, brings out a strong sense of carnival humor with ridiculousness arising from the gap between reality and reality. His performance has had a significant impact on victims of discrimination or unequal treatment in sexual, racial, and age-related situations. This study should inspire many designers through the study of Leigh Bowery's body expression and dress, but it also introduces fashion icons that are not well known in Korea.

"A Study on Hebrews Clothing in the Old Testament" - Especially on Hair Styles, Headgears, Footwear and Personal Ornaments - (구약성서(舊約聖書)에 나타난 히브리인의 복식(服飾) - 두식(頭飾), 신발 및 장신구(裝身具) 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Park, Chan-Boo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.10
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    • pp.63-80
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    • 1986
  • The Old Testament cotains mention of the history of creation and clothing in ancient Hebrew. This study dealt with Hebrew dress customs especially aimed at the manners of their hair styles, headgears, footwear and personal ornaments. References are Korean Revised Version, English King James Version and Revised Standard Version. There is little mention of hair styles and headgears in the Old Testament. Some sort of turban was worn by priests, and soldiers protected themselves with helmets, but most Israelitish men went bareheaded except on special occasions and often wear simple headbands. It was more common for women to use headwear of some type-turbans, scarves, and veils concealing the face. The veil was the distinctive female wearing apparel. All females, with the exception of maidservants and women in a low condition of life, wore a veil. It was the custom for women to wear a veil entirely covering their head in the public. Through most of the Old Testament periods long and thick hair was admired on men and women alike. The Hebrews were proud to have thick and abundant long hair, and they gave much attention to the care of their hair. The caring of hair was deeply related to their rituals. Nazirites never took a razor to their hair during his vow-days, but instead let it grow long, as an offering to God. Men would not cut their beards, but allow them to grow long. The Israelites' standard footwear was a pair of simple leather sandals. This was one of the items of clothing not highly prized. In a colloquial saying of the time, a pair of shoes signified something of small value, and to be barefoot except in times of mourning or on holy place, was a sign either of extreme poverty or humiliation, as in the case of war prisoners. Because precious stones were not mined in the Palestine-Syria region, Hebrews imported them from foreign country. They were consumer-to a large degree limited by their very modest standard of living-but not producers. Hebrews liked the precious stones and were motivated to acquire and wear jewels. Besides their use for adornment and as gifts, the precious or semiprecious stones were regarded by Jews of property. The Hebrews were not innovators in the field of decorative arts. The prohibition of the Law against making any "graven image" precluded the development of painting, sculpture, and other forms of representational art. Jewish men did not indulge in extravagances of dress, and there was little ornamentation among them. Men wore a signet ring on their right hand or sometimes suspended by a cord or chain around the neck. The necklaces, when worn by a male, also bore any symbol of his authority. Bracelets were extremely popular with both men and women, men usually preferring to wear them on their upper arms. The girdle was a very useful part of a man's clothing. It was used as a waist belt, or used to fasten a man's sword to his body, or served as a pouch in which to keep money and other things. Men often carried a cane or staff, which would be ornamented at the top. Among the women there was more apt to be ornamentation than among the men. Hebrew women liked to deck themselves with jewels, and ornamentation of the bride were specially luxurious and numerous. They wore rings on their fingers or On toes, ankle rings, earrings, nosering, necklace, bracelets. Their shapes were of cresent, waterdrops, scarab, insect, animal or plant. Sometimes those were used as amulets. They were made of ceramics, gold, silver, bronze, iron, and various precious stones which were mostly imported from Egypt and Sinai peninsular. Hebrews were given many religious regulations by Moses Law on their hair, headgears, sandals and ornamentation. Their clothing were deeply related with their customs especially with their religions and rituals. Hebrew religion was of monotheism and of revealed religion. Their religious leaders, the prophets who was inspired by God might need such many religious regulations to lead the idol oriented people to God through them.

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A Study on the Digitalization of the Fashion Industry

  • Lee, Mi-Ryang;Kim, Moon-Sook
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.4 no.2
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    • pp.124-137
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    • 2001
  • The digitalization of the fashion industry refers to 'the reception of the digital environment by the industry.'Re paper presented 3 conceptual categories of 'technological environment','information environment'and 'business environment'concerning the scope of digitalization, including from the introduction and use of new technical media to new ways of thinking following the paradigm changes. And it demonstratively analyzed digitalization factors and digitalization level of fashion businesses related to the factors by 7 fashion categories. The analytic result and its suggestions are as follows. First, the five digitalization factor of the fashion industry are defined : manufacturing Process automation, computer systemization, information networking, e-business, and small batch production. Second the digitalization degree of fashion firms decreases in the order of information networking, small batch Production, manufacturing Process automation, computer systemization, and e-business, with information networking on the top and e-business, recent focal point of interest, at the bottom. Third, as for the digitalization of each clothing category, men's formal dress and unisex display the highest level of the general digitalization.

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The Esthetic Characteristics in Chanel's Haute Couture Design (샤넬 오뜨 꾸뛰르 디자인의 미적 특성)

  • Kim, Sun-Young
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.14 no.5
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    • pp.755-765
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    • 2006
  • This study is on the esthetic characteristics in the haute couture work of Chanel. It first reviews the lives and the fashion philosophy of Chanel, a senior designer and Lagerfeld as representatives of the maison, from the haute couture collection since 2000. The results of the study are the following. First, reinterpreting the tradition, Chanel reproduced historical dress items or silhouette with modern sense, or she created a new modern Chanel image through her original restructuring and dismantling. Second, Chanel expressed balanced beauty of compounded eclecticism by accord between simplicity and ornamentation, which meant her design showed impartial beauty with simple silhouette, decoration with colors, accessories, and ornaments. Third, Chanel did not divide the value between men and women, and instead expressed androgyny through dismantling each gender's characteristics by borrowing or mixing. As a result, she emphasized the female image or created a new style through expressing symbolic image embracing masculinity.

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Western Men`s Underclothes in The First Half of The 19C (19세기 전기의 서양 남성 속옷에 관한 고찰)

  • 김주애;허정란
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.7 no.5
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    • pp.56-67
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    • 1999
  • At the turn of the 19C, the first development, spreading to the all classes that peculiar attitude of mind associated with the term prudery. The second changes of habit which affected both sexes and their undergarments were the novel idea of personal cleanliness. Drawers appear to have been of two lengths, short, when worn under breeches, and long when worn under pantaloons and trousers. The dandy wore corsets for beauty. In the early part of the 19C, the differences between day and evening style came to be accentuated. Not only the beau, but the soldier and hunting man were addicted to stays. The high standing collars of the early 1800s became fairly low in the middle of the century. in mid of the 19C, a woolen under-vest was worn next to the skin and studs were an usual fashion. At about 1850 the bottom of the shirt was cut in a curve. For evening dress the elliptic collar was introduced.

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