• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.4
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• pp.21-45
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• 2004

The rapid development of science technology during the 20th century has greatly lowered the hours for labour, thus giving members of society extra time for leisure. With the increasement of leisure activities, sports casual wear has become one of the foremost leading items in the fashion industry, and among such sports casual, down wear has become the F/W season's most popular item. Because it generates high profits, many recognize it as a very important factor in lady's wear. Since the 1990's, down wear was widely applied to various sections of lady's, men's, and children's wear, and it has ceased to be limited to sports casual only. The purpose of this study was to fully understand the characteristics of down, and to develop crossover garments design desired not only in the F/W season but also the S/S season. It has been taken into consideration that many restrictions in sewing technique and material selection in manufacturing down as a fashion product exist when choosing a means of manufacture. That was why this study focused on the history and characteristics of down while analysing the works of domestic and foreign designers to concretely applicate them in fashion products. This study has divided the resulting down wear products according to consumer preference： vest, jacket, coat, one-piece, and skirt to applicate design manufacture of lady's wear in general, while designing and making artistically expressed down wear. There were 48 works developed as a result of this study, of which 41 were ready-to-wear, and the remaining 7 works were creative art wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.1082-1093
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to identify characteristics and consumer attitude on purchasing apparel through Cable TV home-shopping. The questionnaire was administered to 4y5 May through September in 1996 and the data were analyzed by using frequency, factor analysis, crosstab, 1-test, ANOVA, MANOVA, scheffe with utilizing SPSS/PC+ The results of this study were as follows: 1. The most favorite media in purchasing apparel through home-shopping was Cable TV in all over ages except 50's. Women showed Cable TV the most interested, whereas men showed printed media and computer on-line shopping as home shopping media. 2. Home-shopping favor in region' was higher than that of Seoul. In the degree of favor, college students showed the highest, followed by part time employees, housewives and full time employees. Those who lived individual houses in other than Seoul area showed higher purchasing intention. 3. Sweater item was shown as the highest purchasing interested item and coat/business suit items were shown as lower among 10 different apparel items. 4. Five dimensions of Perceived benefits of apparel purchasing through Cable TV were derived by factor analysis such as variety of merchandise information, purchase convenience, efficiency, saving time, and convenience of physical inactivity. The convenience of physical inactivity showed the most important benefit through Cable TV home-shopping. Perceived risk of apparel purchasing through Cable TV was factor analyzed as merchandise related risk, size and appearance related risk, delivery related risk, TV watching related risk, and unplanned purchasing related risk. The sixte and appearance related risk was shown as the highest risk.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.73-85
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to understand what the Glam Style is, focus on the movie "Velvet Goldmine". The Glam Style is refered early 1970s Glam rockers' costume, typified by silver lurex, corksoled platform, men in make-up, personified, for example, by David Bowie, Marc Bolan, New York Dolls, Roxy Music and Iggy Pop. To approach the Glam Style comprehensively, I have divided the formative background of Glam Style into the improvement technology, the advent of the young generation and the diffusion of mass media, the rock music fever and influence on Pop art. Following is the result of analyzing of the character in the movie. First, Brian Slade has the flamboyant transsexual image by skin-tight space suit, glitter pants, lurex, satin and sequined stretch fabrics, vivid color, gauze make-up, feather boa. Second, Curt Wild expresses the outrageous sexual image by black leather jacket, emphasized black eyes make-up. Third, Mandy Slade appears the exaggerated and frivolous image by gold leopard patterned one piece, fur coat, ornamented with beads, tropical make-up, spangles and the costume jewelry. Forth, Auther Stuart has the complex image by black leather jacket, velvet jacket, skin-tight bold shirt, glitter pants, glitter make-up, silk scarf, cherry-red sunglasses. The characteristics meaning of Glam Style implied in this formative characteristic could be presented as the experimental expression of androgynous, the hordes of outrageous alien and kitsch parody.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.82-97
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• 2016

This study attempted to summarize the characteristics of fashion in the 1930s which were the background of 'Bonnie and Clyde' and analyze how fashion in the 1930s was expressed through costume in the movie, focusing on some critical scenes. For this, previous studies and domestic & foreign books, magazines and DVDs relating to movie costume were examined. For analysis of movie costume, 'Bonnie and Clyde (1967)' DVD was referred to. In the movie, meaningful scenes were captured using a GOM Player. Then, the study results found the followings: First, in terms of women's fashion in the 1930s, adult look and slim & long silhouette which naturally revealed breast, waist and hip with a long skirt, a military look with strong shoulders and tailored costume were found. In terms of men's fashion, in contrast, the Duke of Windsor Style (a slim silhouette jacket and loose pants) was popular. Second, in the movie, Bonnie's costume started with a slim linen H-line dress at her first meeting with Clyde. While committing crimes and becoming a famous gangster, she displayed the fashion styles which were in vogue in the 1930s such as fancy and luxurious slim dress, tailored suit and trench coat. Third, in terms of Clyde's costume, from his first meeting with Bonnie to his first crime, he put on common costume (ex: pants, vest, shirts, etc.) which revealed his open and unconventional character. After he became a famous gangster, he would wear the Duke of Windsor style (jacket, vest and pants). The study results well describe movie costume's role as visual language which expresses characters' inner circumstances and outer situations that reflect socio-cultural background.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.211-223
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• 1994

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and ten pictures of the writtened Budist scripture. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the first year of the king Kong-yang based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and the Sutra of the Lotus. 가) Men's wear : 1. Hair style and hair dress : 1) Man bored a hair and put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots, and tied up with a hair ribbon. A kinds of hats were Tung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and Chin-hien-kuan and as a court dress. The man wore pok-여 as an official uniform and wore a pok-du , kun-mo as an everyday dress and wore a helmet as a solidier's uniform. 2. Clothes : 1) They wore Yuan-yu-kuan and Chin-hien -kuan as a court dress, and wore belt, boots, pleated decorated ling skirt also. They wore round shape collor big sleeve jacket, small sleeve long coat, belt , boots as an official dress. 2) the soldiers wore helmet, scarf, yangdang-kap , hung-kap, bak-kap, we-yo-kap, kun-kap and jok-kap and carries arms. 3) The young boys bind his hair up one, two and three angle shape an tied up a hair ribbons. 나) Women's wear : 1. Hair Style and hair dress : high rank ladies made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and tied with hair ribbons , and decorated with precious stone, pan shape head dress , wheel shape head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) high rank ladie's wore kun -kyun attached jacket , and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated on skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.2
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• pp.9-21
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• 1978

The object of this article is to examine the shapes and the development of the costume worn in the early and middle Yi Dynasty from the viewpoint of the history of customes with the excavated clothing from Chung-Ju (1530 A.D.), Wool-San (1650 A.D.), An-Dong (1650 A.D.) etc. The study of the history of costumes of the early years of the Yi Dynasty has been mainly dependent upon fiblirographical records sofar. So I have arranged in order some excavated clothing of the early Yi Dynasty, which gives us some means for the study of Korean historical costumes. It is noticeably remarkable that the daily wear of the early Yi Dynasty period was excavated for the first time from Chung-ju. The results drawn from this research are: It is argued that the original from of Chul-nik(天翼) has been excavated. This is the remnants Mongolian clothing of the Koryo Dynasty, and it is sketched in the Dai-Myong-jib-lei(大明集禮) as Yo-sun-o-ja which the lower classes usually put on. The similar clothing is also handed down as a Dan-po(緞袍) from the ming Dynasty, and we can presume that Chul-nik was a common clothing regardless of the social status of their wearer. It is also remarkable that even women at those times wore the Chul-nik. The length of the Cheo-go-ri of the early Yi Dynasty was the middle hip length, and the edge of the sleeves was very wide which called Cham-soo, and it was handed down to the middle period of the Yi Dynasty which can be seen in the coat (po) of women(直領袍). The systems of the straight-collar Po(袍) during the early Yi Dynasty were discovered for the first time. This Po(袍) which would represent the po-system of the early years of Yi Dynasty, is handed down even to the middle of Yi Dynasty. The collars of the Po(coat) of the early Yi Dynasty are mostly double collars(二重衿) and these give us the advantage in reconsidering of the cheo-go-ri(赤古里) of the Kingdom of Shin-la, or Koryo Dynasty. The edge of the women's Ba-ji(袴) of the early Yi Dynasty was wide and the Ba-ji had a shoulder belt which connect the front part with the back one, which showed the practical point of Ba-ji. The men's Ba-ji of the middle Yi Dynasty was the same as can be seen today and it is clear that the Mongolian Ba-ji dated to B.C. 1 was the same one also. In the system of the Chi-ma(常), there seems to be no differences between the ancient styles and those of these times.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.8
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• pp.107-120
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to characterize the preference for fashion design according to fashion value of Net generation's. This study has 824 samples of individuals aged from 13 to 24. These sampling data are analyzed by frequency analysis, cross-tabs analysis, T-test, LSD-test, MANOVA and ANOVA utilizing SPSS WIN package. The results of this study are as follows; Net generation's is economic value higher than other fashion value and prefer for ring cuffs, mandarin sleeves, shirt collar, round neckline, tailored pants, blue color, check pattern according to economic value. It is proved that in case of shirt, people prefer ring cuffs, raglan sleeves, shirt collar, for jacket, prefer coat cuffs, mandarin sleeves, tailored collar, for jumper, they prefer single cuffs, set in sleeves, soutien collar and for T-shirt, prefer round neckline. For the design and length of pants, people prefer long tailored pants, color of blue and check designed one. It is proved that women haute a higher degree of preference for sleeve-design, neckline-design and color than men do.1318 teenagers have a higher preference for sleeve-design, neckline-design and color than semi-adult. Above university educational-course Net generation has a higher degree of preference for sleeve-design, neckline-design and color than high school educational-course Net generation does. A class of average monthly income of 2-3 million won has a higher degree of preference for neckline-design and color than other lasses do. And there is no difference at the preference for the fashion design when considered classes of average monthly expenditure on purchasing clothes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.63-78
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• 2020

Korean Chinese, immigrants to China, have developed their own traditional costume culture. This paper aims to analyze the traditional costume culture of the Korean Chinese and to provide data for posterity. The research methods are literature research, survey research, and analysis research. The results are as follows: According to the changes over generations, the top of women's Hanbok has changed in length as has the jeogori (jacket), the git (collar), and the gooreum (breast-tie). The width of the git, dong-jeong (thin white cloth-covered paper collar of Hanbok), the sleeve, and gooreum have also changed. The git and the barae (the curve part of the sleeve) have changed from straight patterns to curves. The skirt had changed in wrinkles arrangement, length, and silhouette. The men's Hanbok jeogori and sleeves were lengthened; the pants became wider and were lengthened, and the collar also became curved. The vest has not changed and the du-ru-ma-gi (coat) that once disappeared is being worn again; the bae-ja (vest) and magoja (over-jacket) are worn frequently in modern times. The garments mainly used natural fiber until the development of synthetic fibers, but the treand has been the use of luxurious natural fibers in modern times. The initial color pattern was achromatic, but that changed with the appearance of synthetic fibers, and nowadays it is mainly the garmetnt can display a variety of colors. In addition, hairstyles and shoes have been eveolved from traditional to modern styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.65-81
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• 2006

This is the study on the costumes of Parthian Period in Persia which had powerful influences on the Occidental and Western cultures in B.C 3 to A.D 3. With different types of Parthian costumes in each period, this study shows what types of costumes people used to wear and how they were co-related with its surrounding cultures. The ancient costumes of Korea had something to do with the elements of the Northern part at that time. To make an intensive study of Korean ancient costumes, these Parthian costumes which are known to those of northern nomadic tribes are studied to provide basis elements for study between the Korean styles and the exotic styles. The basic forms of the Parthian styles were jackets and trousers. They consisted of three kinds of jackets such as those to be adjusted In the front, tunics and coats. As for trousers, they were divided into three types such as those with horizontal pleats, round-side pleats and vertical pleats. 1) The jacket to be adjusted in the front was long enough to reach the hip and fit the body reasonably tight, and its neckline was shaped into V-type. It was a very popular style among the people of high and low classes. 2) The tunics had narrow sleeves. It was a one-piece pattern which reached the knees. It was settled with a belt on the waist. Its neckline was shaped into the round but its slit was not cleat. Its styles were into tight-fit and drapery ones. 3) The coats were almost similar to the jacket to be adjusted in the front with short length, but they were entirely long and open. They appeared later than the short jackets and the people of high class seemed to wear these styles. 4) 1'rousers with horizontal pleats - They had almost horizontal pleats on them, and they were a little tight. They seemed to be the early style in the Parthian period. 5) Trousers with round side-pleats - With saggy side pleats on them, these trousers had round pleats like a drapery style. This pattern was also considered Hellenistic elements shown in the Parthian costumes. The trousers consisted of the underdrawers and the leggings (called salwar or shalwar), which is thought to emphasize its functionality for its wearer to mount a horse with more ease. 6) Trousers with vertical pleats - With straight vertical pleats on them, these trousers had some volumes and bias decorations in the middle of them. These styles were thought to be worn by the ruling class of the Parthia from early to late period.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.22-29
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• 2008

In this study, it is investigated the types and the compounding method of flower patterns and the uses of flower patterned fabrics in Chosun Dynasty. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing during 16-17th century. Our ancestors had used the various flower patterns based on Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism onto the fabrics. The flower patterns on the fabrics were expressed with the other patterns such as treasure patterns, letter patterns or bird patterns. And the flower patterns symbolized the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. In the order of the percentage, the types of the flower patterns were shown Lotus(27.31%), Arabesque(26.85%), Japanese apricot(14.81%), Peony(8.79%), Flowering plants(6.94%), Chrysanthemum(6.01%), Pomegranate(2.31%) patterns and so on. Especially the Lotus pattern was shown up most frequently. That of shape was designed as blooming(開花), full bloom(滿開) and the side of flower(側面). By the compounding method, the compound types mixed with the other patterns were used much more than the individual types composed by its own pattern. The flower patterns were used a lot in Jeogori(Jacket) regardless of the ganders and in men's Po(coat) including Cheollik(天翼), Dappo(胡), Jeonbok(戰服), Dahnryoung(團領), etc. Also contrary to these days, the flower patterned fabrics had come out in the shrouds. Judging from these facts, our ancestors wished that the meaning of the immortal life was included in the flower pattern.