• 대한가정학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.147-165
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• 1973

One of the characteristics of feudal society is the control of the dress and ornamentation which stand for various social classes and personal relationships. Throughout the Yi-Dynasty, certain forms of dress and ornamentation were controlled or prohibited by the government. For instance, there was a Ban on the use of gold and silver for ornaments and silks or satins for dresses, and the violator was subject to severe punishment according to the penal laws. This seems to have been done more for symbolism and the dignity of the various social ranks and powers than as an economic measure against foreign products. The use of yellow cloth, for instance, was once banned out of blind submission to the traditional practices in China, then the most powerful nation in Asia. The working classes were prohibited to use any silks of foreign production. This was done to discourage a spirit of wasteful luxury and the tendency to prefer the often higher quality foreign product. The government regulated the class of the traditional wedding ceremony, again as a means of both encouraging economy and reestablishing the distinctions between the classes. In spite of these attempts at control by the government a large trade in smuggled goods was still carried out. This had the effect of impeding the development of the clothing industry in the country.

• 대한산업공학회지
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• 제39권4호
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• pp.260-270
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• 2013

This paper proposes a strategic portfolio model for managing performance of online games. The portfolio matrix is composed of two dimensions: financial performance and non-financial performance. Financial performance is measured by the conventional measure, average revenue per user (ARPU). In terms of non-financial performance, five non-financial key performance indicators (KPIs) that have been widely used in the online game industry are utilized: RU (Register User), VU (Visiting User), TS (Time Spent), ACU (Average Current User), MCU (Maximum Current User). Data envelopment analysis (DEA) is then employed to produce a single performance measure aggregating the five KPIs. DEA is a linear programming model for measuring the relative efficiency of decision making unit (DMUs) with multiple inputs and outputs. This study employs DEA as a tool for multiple criteria decision making (MCDM), in particular, the pure output model without inputs. Combining the two types of performance produces the online game portfolio matrix with four quadrants: Dark Horse, Stop Loss, Jack Pot, Luxury Goods. A case study of 39 online games provided by company 'N' is provided. The proposed portfolio model is expected to be fruitfully used for strategic decision making of online game companies.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.89-108
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• 2022

Since the most ancient times, lapis lazuli had been used for luxury goods such as jewelry and seals, to embellish sculptures and weapons or the precious objects of tombs, such as the golden mask of Tutankhamon or the famous "Standard" of the royal cemetery of Ur. Much more recent seems to be its frequent use as a pigment in wall paintings or polychrome stucco. In this article, the question of the sources for this extremely rare mineral is briefly discussed and the places proposed by ancient scholars as deposits of the mineral are presented and examined. The information provided in the medieval Arabic and Persian scientific literature has been considered and compared with the data of our modern geological knowledge. A list of sites in Central Asia, the Middle East, and India with lapis lazuli occurrence on wall paintings illustrate its wide use in different artistic cultures and periods between the 2nd and 10th centuries C.E. These cultures are in fact different in ethnic and linguistic origin and in the religious, economic, and social sphere, but closely interconnected by common pan-regional artistic traditions in style, materials, and techniques employed. A case study investigated by the authors in the Friday Mosque of Iṣfahān gives an example of the use of lapis lazuli pigment in Islamic wall paintings and stuccoes.

• The Journal of Asian Finance, Economics and Business
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.49-60
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• 2023

The study attempts to examine the relationship among revenue growth factors from different angles and provides a comprehensive overview of tax revenue collection for developing countries. The impact of income tax, customs duty, and value-added tax on the gross domestic product is examined using the ordinary least-square (OLS) multiple regression approach. To confirm the association, a multiple regression model is applied to time-series data. SPSS software, MS Excel, is used to draw the empirical results, trend analysis, and some graphical presentation to reach the study's objective. The findings show that while the value-added tax has a significant impact and the highest coefficient, regardless of country, income tax and customs duty may or may not be significant depending on the circumstances. It triggers effectual and efficacious economic growth. The paper has implications in policy-making areas where governments are seeking how to stimulate revenue growth effectively and efficiently. To promote economic growth, the tax net and tax rate on luxury goods should be increased along with human resources in the tax administration for the short term. But in the long term, decentralization & digitization of tax administration, dismantling the existing tax barriers and good governance are necessary.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.29-37
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• 2017

Due to the pursuit of individuality by modern consumers, the day has come when it is hard for design to be sustained solely by external beauty. Accordingly, products with the psychological value and brand stories are appearing, so that products that reinterpret traditional crafts are now being appreciated for their merits. Handmade goods defined as new luxury goods or products of high-quality craftsmanship are being used to enhance the consumer's individual image, and has created an unprecedented consumer stratum structure. Japan is one of the countries that actively applies traditional crafts to contemporary design and this study aims to investigate cases that are being reinterpreted in modern fashion in the theme of Boro, which is not as well known among Japanese traditional crafts. The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designers by investigating the cases of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. In addition, in reinterpreting traditional crafts into other fields, it is regarded as a meaningful way to contribute to a variety of other ideas. As the research method, first, the definition and kind of Boro were investigated utilizing the related literature information about the traditional fabric of Boro, which is the starting point and basis of the research. Second, Japanese aesthetic sense defined in the previous research was classified and the relationship of the anti-decorative aesthetic sense and Boro investigated. Third, after classifying the reinterpretation cases of Boro that have appeared in four major fashion collections and designer brands from 2011 to 2016 by the selected aesthetic sense, its characteristics were investigated. The search for examples of the reinterpretation of Boro uses the results of the keyword search of Boro and Boro Fashion via the internet search engine Google from April 2016 to December 2016. In addition, the search results were selected on the basis of whether the designer specified borrowing from Boro or whether Boro on the collection order was included or not. In addition to introducing an unknown fabric craft, this study also raises the methodological problems of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. Products containing psychological value are expected to come into the spotlight in the upcoming consumer market. Therefore, as a follow-up study, it is suggested to research examples in which various crafts are being applied as products before one knows, how this creates new originality, and the limitations involved in this.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.171-176
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• 2014

최근 온라인 쇼핑몰의 증가로 인해 소비자들의 생활방식에도 많은 변화가 일어났으며, 현재 백화점들의 온라인 쇼핑몰에서는 명품들과 외국 화장품까지도 판매되고 있다. 아직까지는 모든 제품이 아닌 몇몇의 제품들만을 온라인 쇼핑몰에서 판매하고 있지만 소비자들이 브랜드 상품을 더욱 저렴한 가격에 구매하려는 경향을 보임으로써 백화점의 브랜드 상품을 온라인 쇼핑몰에서 판매하려는 경향이 늘어나고 있다. 이에 본 논문에서 연구한 결과 첫째, 모기업의 신뢰는 쇼핑몰의 신뢰에 긍정적인 영향을 미치는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 쇼핑몰의 신뢰는 쇼핑몰 만족에 긍정적인 영향을 미쳤으나 모기업 신뢰가 매개변수를 거치지 않고 쇼핑몰 만족에 미치는 영향에 대해 연구한 결과 모기업의 신뢰는 쇼핑몰 만족에 영향을 미치지 않았다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권5호
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• pp.49-64
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• 2001

Fur is conceived as a material signifier, not only with its commodity value as luxury goods but also as its symbolic value as objects invested by one's libidinal desire. In this study, complex meanings of fur as multi-layered signs of political and sexual power focusing on fetishism shall be explored, especially on the spectacle fetishism acted by mass media during the anti-fur movement in the 1980s. In conjuction herewith, a highlight shall also be made to the symbolic value in fashion design since 1990s. In this study, first, as a theoretical investigation, fetishism, that has been traditionally considered only as sexual fetishism in fashion discourse will be explored in socio-economic level. Second, in historical context, how the meanings and values of fur have become realized in various cultural spaces, such as literature, art, film and finally, fashion will be viewed. In fashion, fur is a product of desire and power influenced by commodity fetishism as well as sexual fetishism. During the anti-fur movement, mass media has developed the concept of spectacle fetishism. Fur is a sign of animal-victim, and fur-clad women is viewed with images full of imperialsm, sexism and racism, thus act as derisive spectacles of consumerism. Since 1990s as a reflection on anti-fur movement, fetishistic characteristics, which challenge traditional operation method, are expressed by disguise, parody, and returning to the nature. First, fur as disguise is intended to hide sexually perverse, decadent characteristics and expensiveness of fur by texturing or patterning techniques. Second, fur as parody uses fake fur or dyed fur in order to satirize erotically and ethnographically fetishized meanings of fur. Third, aboriginal design of fur is adapted to use symbolic values outside the West, which can potentially mobilize antagonistic oppositions out of their fetishistic regimes. In conclusion, fur as sign of female sexuality and its libidinal profits of exchange, has significant symbolic values expressed in fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.80-96
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to consider the expression of costume through the review of cinema costumes and to provide the model of cooperation between fashion and movie industry by analysis of collaboration with fashion brands in the movie . The subjects are the 1974 film directed by Jack Clayton and the 2013 version by Baz Luhrmann. Cinema Fashion was studied by analyzing the costumes of the two main characters, Gatsby and Daisy, in each scene. Gatsby's costume appeared as a model of traditional American classic suit, sensitive G-G look that symbolizes social success and traditional casual style that reflects upper-class life style. Daisy's costume expressed pastel toned luxury flapper look, oriental art deco style, and prestigious jewelry representing high class. The collaborations with fashion brands were carried out with Ralph Lauren and Cartier in 1974 film, and Brooks Brothers, Prada, and Tiffany in 2013. The value of prestige brands that matched the images of the movie was utilized, but marketing strategies for the promotion of fashion goods were not enough in 1974 version. On the other hand, in 2013 film, the effects of collaboration of the movie and fashion brands were forecasted sufficiently and marketing campaigns for promotion were performed in a various ways. The characteristics of collaborations were as follows: (1) the usage of prestige brands value, (2) collections planning and promotion using the stories of a movie, (3) the usage of multidirectional digital media, and (4) multi-dimensional promotion using entertainment factors. In collaborations with the movie, fashion brands could make cooperative relationship to produce the positive effects for promotion and prestige image strategies and draw attention of the people to the movie and fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.56-68
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• 2016

Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men's trousers and women's skirt. Besides, various kinds of women's western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.472-480
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• 2005

It was proved the practical use of the unique traditional Korean paper through the previous researches. The purpose of this study was to suggest the adequate application which is making various applied patterns in the fashion products so as to contribute to textile, fashion, and Korean paper industry. Six kinds of vests with the same fashion material using the Korean traditional paper were manufactured in order to investigate the images of materials in case of wearing them on the actual human bodies. As the results of image assessment for the materials and the factor analysis, 'classical', 'natural', 'Korean traditional', 'rural' and 'luxury' images were presented as the representative image of the Korean traditional paper material. Making repeated patterns of stripes and zigzag by sewing-machine stitches showed the natural effect on Korean traditional paper. Well-matched harmony was shown between holes made by the needle in sewing and slits torn by the tension to the needle and the thread. Especially, transparency by irregular holes formed by artificial frictional washing could shown special formative arts harmoniously with semi-transparency of Korea traditional paper and touch of sewing yarn. After the unripe persimmon dyeing, holes made by the needle became more hard and tight. The changes were no longer shown by the artificial frictional washing and then fixed. As the result of applying the Korean traditional paper fashion materials with various patterns for the basic formed garments, it was shown that the common and simple garments were changed the garments with special formation which could be found on the art garments due to the creative touch and formative arts using the Korea traditional paper fashion material. A variety of formative application by means of the developed samples was suggested to enlarge the practicality. As the result of this study, it was discovered that the possibility and application of fashion goods through the developed samples made of Korean traditional paper.