• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.145-157
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• 1993

This study aimes to investigate the garment ease of pe-school children's clothing in accordance with arm movement. The experiment was done with 4 per-school children fro mage 3 to age 5, and 3 types of experimental clothes were made ; sleeveless, half sleeve, and long sleeve. The waist pattern and the sleeve pattern of each experimental clothes has no garment ease. And experimental clothes were examined to obtain the necessary ease of armcye line and waist lien by cross-cut method. The results of investigation can be summarized as follows ; 1. The resulting movement ranges of experimental clothes with no garment ease were 131.5°(sleeveless), 71.75°(half sleeve), and 62.25°(long sleeve). 2. The size order of cross-cut opening of waist lien movement were (side>front>back), and (half sleeve>long sleeve>sleeveless). 3. When the base point of measurement was set to armpit point by arm the latitudinal length of cross-cut opening of armcye line by arm movement was (anterior armpit part > posterior armpit part), and longitudinal length of cross-cut opening was (upper part>lower part).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.17-29
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• 2003

Long Sleeve Costume is often seen not only in ancient China but also in various neighboring places throughout the time. Costumes show the societies cultural preferences and values at that time, and Long Sleeve Costume is no exception. In my research, 1 focused on the time period from Han Dynasty to Tang dynasty in ancient China. During Han dynasty, Shenyl style robe(심의형 포) was widely worn, and it shows very little foreign cultural influence. For the period of Wei·Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties, foreign aspects of costume started to show up Possibly due to the influence of Buddhism and influx of foreign tribes. For instance, it is not too difficult to find hufu (호복) as well as Shenyl style robe, and it appears this Wei Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties may have been a transitional period of accommodating two cultures without complete merger. Now, when it comes to Tang dynasty, we observe a creation of new cultural form in costume after adopting exotic culture. Because Sh ny style robe. often observed for a long time in Chinese history, disappeared, and tuanling(단영) and fanling(번영) became the main stream in their costume style in Tang dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.1060-1071
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to identify the effect of clothing cues(sleeve and skirt width, length) on female impressions. The experimental materials developed for this study are a set of stimuli and response scales. The stimuli are 16 pictures manipulated with sleeve and skirt width · length variations by computer drawing. The experimental design consists of 3 factorial design: (1) sleeve shapes(plain, upper expanded, below expanded, all expanded) (2) skirt width (wide, narrow) (3) skirt length(long, short) The 7-point semantic differential response scale designed for visual evaluation of female' s impression formation on sleeve shape and skirt width · length is 27 bipolar adjectives. The results of this study are as follows: 1. When we analize the impressions of female figure by sleeve shape and width · length of skirt, it becomes clear that maturity, modernity, attention, elegance and tenderness are proved to be important. Among these five factors, maturity, modernity and attention are identified as more important ones. 2. Sleeve shape have an effect on all factors except maturity and the effects of sleeve on the four factors are not striking. ' Width of skirt are most influential to the maturity and attention, but it does not have any effect on modernity. However two factor, that is width of skirt and sleeve have an effects on modernity, attention and tenderness. ' The length of skirt has an effects on the tenderness, elegance and modernity, but it dose not have any effect on attention. But width and length of skirt have an effects on attention, tenderness and modernity The length of skirt and sleeve have an effect on tenderness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.67-85
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• 2010

School uniform has improved greatly in terms of fit, size, function, and design due to steep competition in the market and the strong interest of researcher, while little effort has been made for physical training uniform, so the objective of this study is to provide basic research data of the training uniform for the improvement of its design and fitness. For this purpose, 327 high school girls provided information on size and design of their uniform, level of satisfaction, the recognized ease in uniform. Most students wore the physical training uniform in another classes and the long sleeved shirt were the most popular one. They often used the uniform for the protection from cold and for comfortable activeness. For a long sleeved shirt, most students preferred raglan sleeve, zip-up collar, straight waist line, and ribbed sleeve cuffs and hem. For long pants, students preferred elastic waist band and ribbed pants cuffs. Currently, the short-sleeved shirt mostly had a shirts collar, ribbed hem, straight waist line with raglan sleeve, but students wanted a round neck and set-in sleeve. For overall level of satisfaction, students showed high satisfaction in terms of function and psychological effect, while aesthetic quality of the uniform was needed to be much improved. Most students evaluated that the circumference of uniforms properly fit or had a little ease, and students considered waist size the most suitable. The long pants length evaluated properly fit or a little long. Students accepted that the ease of summer uniform was more suitable than winter uniform's both at circumference and at length. Depending on students' height distribution, the length of long pants and short pants varied significantly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.221-232
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• 1995

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and thirty four pictures of the engraved painting on the wood. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the forth year of the king Wu based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and Pulsul-Yaesu 가) Men's wear 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots. 2. Clothes : 1) King wore an uniform of Mien-lu Kuan system. 2) The Crown Prince and high rank officials wore Yuan-yu-Kuan Won-jung-po-ju-Kuan, Sa-bang-Kuan, Yun-wha-Kuan and montain shape Po-ju-Kuan as a court dress. 3) Officials put on the Pok-du as an official dress and Won-jung-ip-mo, Kun and Mo as an everyday dress, the monk put on the diamond shape Do-kuan and Du-kun and the soldier put on the Helmet. Costume system of man was as follows ; They wore exchanged shape collar, big sleeve jacket, long skirt, apron, hanging precious stone big belt as a Mien-pok. 4) The soldiers wore helmet, Keun-Kap, Scarf, Pee-Bak, Hung-Kap, Pok-Kap, Yang-Dang-Kap, We-Yo-Kap, Kum-Kap, and caries arms. Lower-level officials wore Pe-Bal, Kun-Mo, gae, won-leung, very small sleve jacket, a long coat reaching up to the knee length, slacks, belt, loin cloth and apron. 5) Children's bind their hair up angle shape and wore a half long jacket raching up to the hip and slacks. 나) Women's wear; 1. hair style and hair dress; 1) High rank women's hair style was very extravaganceful. They made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and decoraed precious stone, pan shape head dress, wheel shape head dress, and flower shape precious stone decorated head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) High rank ladi's wore Kun-Kyun attached jacket, and jacket sleeves decorated pleats, and pleats decorated long skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf, this type is the same with Dang Dynasty, five dynasty of china, Song, Kum, Won, Myung Dynasty, and our costume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dyansty. 2) Official ladies wore exchange shape collor, big sleeve jacket, long pleats skirt, apron, and back apron, scarf. 3) Women wore top knot hair style and decorated by ribbons. Shoulder scarf attached small sleeve jacket and wore reaching up to the knee length. Side seam is open and under wear was long skirt. 4) High knot hair style and exchanged shape collor jacket, under wear wore long skirt. They wore under skirts and the jackets. 5) High knot hair style, exchange shape collor jacket reaching up to the knee length small sleeve under wear wore long skirt, belt. 6) High knot hair style, big sleeve jacket and long skirt. 7) Foot wear wore boots, mokasin type shoes, sandal.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.1008-1019
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop an appropriate jacket pattern for elderly women over sixty years old, providing a good fit and appearance. Results were as follows: The length of the jacket was made long enough to cover the area 22.0cm below the waistline. The waist back length was made 1.7cm longer than the actual size of the waist back length. The armhole length was made 0.5cm longer than B/4, enhacing the appearance and functionality while allowing freer movement of the arms. As for the front and back interscye breadths, the front interscye breadth was made 1.7cm larger than the actual size while the back interscye breadth was only 1.0cm larger, providing the front interscye breadth more space. The bust breadth was made 10.0cm larger than the bust circumference measure(B/4+2.5cm), the waist breadth was made 6.0cm larger than the waist circumference measure(W/4+1.5cm), The hip breadth was made 12.0cm larger than the him circumference measure(H/4+3.0cm). The sleeve length was made 3.0cm larger than the arm length measure, as the sleeve length of a jacket is usually long enough to cover the ulnar styloid. The sleeve width was made 5.0cm larger than the upper arm circumference measure, as the upper arm circumference measure of the model pattern was too large than necessary, worsening the overall appearance. The sleeve cap height was set at AH/4+4.7cm. The wrist circumference of 27.0cm was set, allowing 2/3 and 1/3 for the large sleeve and small sleeve respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.41-52
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• 2000

During the 3C(B.C.) and 2C(A.D.), there were large influx of variety of arts to Jin and Han dynasty such as music, dancing, and at performing from neighboring countries. It made a tremendous impact on the development of dancing an in Han dynasty. On the other hand, Kokurye people had also enjoyed their own singing and dancing culture (styles) for a long time. Han and Kokurye's dancing costumes were studied based on artifacts (data) such as wall paintings, clay doll, and other small paintings all from tombs in Han and Kokurye. A similarity was found between two dynasties' dancing costume, since both had tong sleeve dresses. However, the further detailed study showed that one can't simply say both are in the same style. For example, the dress in Han dynasty had a long length style of coat(深衣) covering all the way to feet, and there were round neckline coat(團領) and long Jacket(장유). In contrast, that of Kokurye had a shorter length in coat(直領) covering only up to calf of the leg or long jacket(장유).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.2 s.38
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• pp.139-150
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• 1991

The purpose of this study is to do the Somatotype classification according to the type of shoulder-neck and to give the thinkness of shoulder pad according to them. Therefore this study was measurement body size of 201 and the somatotypes were classified as their plumb line. The standard somatotype of this measurement was classified as 9 type according to its angle of shoulder inclination and neck length. Pads which have different thickness (1 cm, 1.5 cm, 2 cm) were attached to the 9 body type and the set-in sleeve blouse and raglan sleeve blouse were made and tring test and sensory test were accomplished. The results of this study were as follows: 1 . Classification of shoulder-neck relationship. Angles of shoulder inclination ($15^{\circ},\;21^{\circ},\;27^{\circ}$), lock lenaths (10 cm, 12.5 cm, 15 cm) were classi- fied as 3 type each and these types were combined as 9 types. II . The result of angle difference of shoulder inclination according to pad thickness. 1) In case of set-in pad. angle is increased $5.75^{\circ}$ per 1 cm of pad thickness. 2) In case of raglan pad. angle is increased $6.45^{\circ}$ per 1 cm of pad thickness. III. The most fit pad thickness to the 9 types. In case of set-in sleeve blouse. 1) High shoulder-long neck, Standard shoulder-long neck Low shoulder-long neck, Stan-dard shoulder·standard neck. Low shoulder-standard neck: 1.5 cm. 2) High shoulder-standard neck, Standard shoulder-short neck, Low shoulder-short neck: 1 cm. 3) High shoulder-short neck: 0 cm(without pad) In case of raglan sleeve blouse. 4) High shoulder-long neck, Standard shoulder-long neck, Low shoulder·long neck, Stan-dard shoulder-standard neck, Low shoulder-standard neck: 1.5 cm. 5) High shoulder-standard neck, Standard shoulder-short neck, Low-shoulder-short neck: 1 cm. 6) High shoulder-short neck: 0 cm(without pad)

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Pressure Vessels and Piping
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.21-25
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• 2011

Although many defects in PZR heater sleeve have been reported continually from operating experiences in oversea nuclear power plant, utilities get into difficulties in finding appropriate methods for diagnostics of the components due to the limited access or high radiation problems. Recently, as an alternative, diagnostics using Guided Wave Testing(GWT) are proposed and the attention of the methods has been growing gradually because of their long range inspection capability. This study is to investigate the effectiveness of GWT to detect PWSCC in welding points of PZR heater sleeve. Moreover, mode sensitivity analysis of GWT and optimal frequency for the diagnostics of PWSCC are presented by testing the mock-ups specimens that contain artificial flaws.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.5-17
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• 2002

This study aimed to investigate the relationship between ideal images of women and women's clothing fashion England between 1820s and 1850s. The age was divided into two periods, which were 1820-1836 and 1837-1850. During the first period, the ideal images of women were those of fairy, spirit, and angels, which were expressed by tight waist belt, wider and shorter skirt, top expanded sleeve, wide and flat pelerine collar, feather decoration, elaborate and curly hair style, narrow and light ballerina shoes etc.. During the second period, the ideal images for women were those of lady with modesty, quietness, and weakness. They were expressed by long and full skirt, tight or bulge over the lower arm sleeve, dropped sleeve, poke bonnet, body wrapping large shawl and sober color etc.. The result shows that the ideal images of women in 19th century England were concretely expressed by various clothing fashion including hair style, shoes, and decoration. This study sheds light on psychological, historical, and theoretical approaches to clothing.