Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.19
no.6
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pp.1027-1039
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1995
Clothing fitness is strongly required in the apparel industry, and draping is an effective tool to increase fitness to the wearers. A more sophisticated and systematic information of the somatotype, accordingly, is necessary for better cress form design. This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle aged women's upper torso for dress form designers and pattern makers by classifying the somatotype based on each individual's lateral view, and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, analysis of variance. Factor analysis was used to 23 items from photometric measurment and cluster analysis was applied for classification of upper torso forms. Through cluster analysis using 5 factor scores, 3 somatotypes were categorized from th lateral view 1) Type I was straight somatotype in which the plumb line passes throught the lobe of the ear, the shoulder joing and the mid abdominal region laterally. This type of woman was slender and shorter than average. 2) Type II was bending somatotype in which the upper portion of upper torso is bent forward. This type of woman was taller and fatter than average. 3) Type III was swayback somatotype in which the upper portion of protruding point on the back is bent forward but the lower portion of protruding point had characteristic of turning over somatotype. This type of woman had storter length on the front and longer lenght on the back, slender type and flat chest.
The purposes of this study are to examine the characters of the lower body shape in the middle aged women and to make slacks pattern on the base of four difference body shapes. The lower body shapes were classified into 4 types on the basis of their lateral view silhouettes. The slacks patterns were based on the lower body shape characters and resulted in followings. In “Type 1” of the right body shape with the standard protrusion of abdomen and hips, little difference from conventional patterns was seen in experiment pattern, in which the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(2.5㎝) and the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.5㎝+dart(3.5㎝). The front hip girth was defined as H/4+2.0㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-0.5㎝ due to its increased ease amount produced by abdominal fat deposition. In the experimental pattern of “Type 2” with prominent hips, the front and back differences of the waist girth and the hip girth and the hip girth were defined as 1.0㎝ and 2.0㎝ separately. Accordingly, the front waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+1.0㎝+fold(2.0㎝), the back waist girth W/4+0.5㎝-0.1㎝+dart(6.5㎝), the front hip girth H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. In “Type 3” with the prominent abdomen and the flat hips, the front waist girth was set up as W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+fold(4.5㎝) for the increased front fold amount and the back waist girth was W/4+0.5㎝+0.5㎝+dart(3.0㎝). The front hip girth was made as H/4+2.5㎝+0.5㎝ and the back hip girth H/4+2.5㎝-0.5㎝. In “Type 4” with prominent abdomen and hips, considered were ① the increased front fold amount due to the abdominal protrusion, ② the increased back dart amount and the decreased back dart length owing to the hips prominent and ③ the front and back differences of waist and hip girth for the lateral view silhouette. Therefore the front waist girth was defined as W/4+0.5㎝+2.0㎝+fold(5.0㎝), the back waist girth as W/4+0.5㎝-2.0㎝+dart(4.0㎝), the front hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝+1.0㎝ and the back hip girth as H/4+2.0㎝-1.0㎝. The sensory evaluation of appearance and comfort was appeared more suitable on the experiment pattern than on the conventional pattern.
The purpose of this study is to create a shirt sloper suitable for an elderly male body shape by producing virtual models using a 3D-virtualization program, making a torso prototype using the Yuka CAD system, and employing 3D simulation to virtualize and calibrate the model. First, the following three types of obese dummies are implemented through the CLO 3D program: Type 1 exhibits body fat in the lower body; Type 2 exhibits an obese abdomen; and Type 3 displays a balanced form of obesity. Second, for the design of the shirt pattern, the waist back length (measured value+1), back armhole depth (C/10+12+3+0.5~1.5), front armhole depth (back armhole depth 0~1), front interscye (2C/10-1+0.5-0.5), armscye depth (C/10+2+3.5+ 0.5), back interscye (2C/10-1+1), front chest C (C/4+2.5+1), back chest C (C/4+2.5-1), front hem C (C/4+2.5+1(+2)), back hem C (C/4+2.5-1(+2)), cap height (AH/3-5), and biceps width (Front AH-1, Back AH-1) are calculated. Third, the virtual attachment of the shirt pattern is resolved by increasing the front and back armhole depths, and the front and rear wrinkles are improved by adding a back armhole dart. The front hem lift and lateral pull caused by the protrusion of the abdomen are amended by increasing the margin of the chest, waist C, and hip C, with the appearance improved by balanced margin distribution in the front, back, and side panels. The improved retail pattern with an increase in the front armholes C was balanced on the torso plate.
The Inclined Earth Retaining Structure (IER) is the structure using an integrated system of both front supports and inclined back supports to increase the stability for excavation. The IER is a structurally stable temporary excavation method using the back supports restraining the lateral displacement of the front supports as stabilizing piles. The back supports connected to the front supports significantly reduce the earth pressure acting on both the front wall and the front supports by distributing it to the back supports in order to increase the structural stability. In this study, mechanical behaviors of IER according to the head connection type using fixed- or hinge-connection were found by performing numerical analysis and laboratory model tests in the sandy ground. The maximum lateral displacement of fixed-connection was 88% of that of hinge-connection in the numerical analysis. The lateral displacement of fixed-connection was 7% of that of hinge-connection in the laboratory model test results. Furthermore, the earth pressure of the fixed-connection was 67% of that of the hinge-connection in the shear-strain analysis results of the model ground.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.17
no.4
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pp.608-621
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1993
The Purposes of this study were 1)to find the body surface total line and segment line significantly(${\alpha}$=0.05) changed by the leg movement including all movement direction of hip joint, knee joint and ankle joint for the more functional clothing. 2)to classify them into 3 types-expansion type, contraction type, expansion & contraction type, and 3)to identify the characteristics of the body surface length changes. 10 Crosswise and 5 lengthwise body surface total lines and 48 crosswise & 39 lengthwise body surface segment lines of 26 female college students aged from 18 to 24 years were measured directly on the body surface and were analyzed by ANOVA & Multiple Comparison Test (Tukey). The results were as following : Body surface total lines significantly changed were all the body surface total lines except abdoman girth, 1/2thigh girth of lower leg and ankle girth, and these were classified into 3 types : Center front leg line belonged to expansion & contraction type, whereas lateral leg line, legscye girth, and total crotch length belonged to contraction type. The rest belonged to expansion type. Knee girth showed maximum expansion, whereas center front leg line showed maximum contraction. Body surface total lines have shown large expansion crosswise whereas lengthwise they have mainly shown contraction. At least more than one component segment line of each body surface total lines except abdoman girth and ankle girth have shown significant change. Top segment of inner leg line showed maximum expansion. whereas just below top segment of center front leg line showed maximum contraction. Crosswise all the body surface segment lines have shown expansion except inner back segments of thigh girth and 1/2thigh girth of upper leg which have shown contraction. Lengthwise they have shown both expansion and contraction according to the location of front or back, and below or upper 1/2thigh girth line except the component segment lines of lateral leg line, which has shown contraction only.(cf. figure 2. figure 3. and table 2-2).
The purpose of this study is to provide for some basic data useful to production of the apparels fit and measured well for the Chinese men. For this purpose, 389 men aged between 20 and 49 and living in Beijing and Shanghai, China were sampled to be measured for their constitutions. Then, their constitutions were classified and thereupon, according to the Men's Wear Specifications (GB/T 1335.1-1997), National Standards of People's Republic of China. The collected data were statistically processed using SAS 6.12 for technical statistical analysis, correlation analysis, factor analysis, group-wise analysis. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of the factor analysis aiming to determine Chinese men's constitutional components, five components could be identified: constitutional obesity, lateral body size, longitudinal body size, shoulder and back width, and shoulder drooping. 2. As a result of classifying Chinese men's constitutions according to drop measurements, four types could be identified. Y type had the lowest obesity and the highest longitudinal body size. A type had a lower obesity and had an average longitudinal body size. B Type had the second highest obesity, the smallest longitudinal body size and shoulders/back width. C Type had the highest obesity, upper body length and shoulders/back width. 3. In terms of distribution, 'B' type (39.10%) of the sample, followed by 'A' type (29.26%), 'C' type (19.95%) and 'Y' type (11.70%). In all, the results of this study suggests that 'B' type represents the Chinese men in contrast with GB specifying that 'A' type represents the Chinese men. On the other hand, Beijing region was dominated most by 'B' type (37.06%), followed by 'A' type (28.82%), 'C' type (22.35%) and 'Y' type (11.76%), while Shanghai region was dominated most by 'B' type (41.13%), followed by 'A' type (31.21%), 'C' type (19.15%) and 'Y' type (8.51%).
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.21
no.4
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pp.165-179
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2019
This study used 3D body scan data to classify body shapes according to the torso shape of adult males aged 20-75 years. This data will be provided so that the apparel industry can make apparel products corresponding to body characteristics by age. The study used 1,796 adult males between the ages of 20 and 75 and the 3D body shape data of the '5th Research on National Standard Anthropometry'. For data analysis, the program SPSSWIN Ver. 17.0 was used to calculate the mean and frequency allowing for a factor analysis, cluster analysis, analysis of variance, and Duncan test. To classify body shape according to the torso shape of adult males, this study considered nine factors: 'horizontal size of torso,' 'vertical size of body,' 'curve of torso and waist-abdomen flatness ratio,' 'length of torso,' 'shape of neck area,' 'degree of lateral curve,' 'difference between front and back interscye length,' 'shoulder armscye shape,' and 'chest flatness ratio.' Based on the results of the factor analysis, the torso shapes of adult males were classified into five types. Type 1 is "upright body with flat, curvy shape", Type 2 is "curve sway back body type", Type 3 is "flat, abdominally obese body", Type 4 is "obese, crooked body" and Type 5 is "thick sway front body type." named.
The purpose of the study is to identify the physical characteristics of early adolescent boys, to classify body shapes by physical characteristic. The subjects were 549 boys in the capital area. Their body shapes were identified and classified based on 47 anthropometric measurements, 43 photographic measurements and 10 indexed measurements. For data analysis were performed descriptive statistics, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA and Duncan test using SPSS Ver. 10. According to the result of extracting factors indicating the characteristics of body shape, horizontal size, vertical length, lateral posture, the lateral shape of the abdomen and the hip, the shape of the back protrusion, the front shape of the trunk and was the shape of the shoulders. According to the result of classifying body shapes, four types of shape - T(Tall) type, P(Petite) type, L(Large) type and R(Regular) type were identified. The results of this study are expected to contribute to planning sizes according to the type of body shape and improving the fitness of ready-made clothes in apparel and school uniform manufacturers.
This study is aimed at exploring a reasonable and reliable method of measuring pre-school children's somatotypes and there by, data basing the information obtained and classifying their somatotypes, at providing useful data which can be utilized for the design of their dress forms and enhancing the fitness of their apparels. to this end, 330 pre-school children living in the capital area and aged fro m4 to 6 were sampled to be subject to the measurement of their somatotypes. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As the pre-school children grow, the scales indicating their vertical growth including height could well be measured differently, but those scales indicating their lateral somatotypes which reflect their postural changes did not show among age groups. in other words, male kids were higher in the scales including height than female kids, while there were not differences between sexes in most scales indicating their lateral somatotypes. 2. The elements comprising the somatotypes were the size of body skeleton, the thickness of body mass, the posture and shape of body mass, the lateral under-neck shape, the extrusion of belly, the length between front and the back shoulder, the shape of lower belly, the shape of upper hip, the shape of lower hip and the slope of shoulders. Among them, the first two elements accounted for 64.8% of the total distribution, which means that these two elements explain the body-mass somatotypes of kid's most effectively. 3. The sample kids were divided into two types for classification of their somatotypes. As a result, it was found that the elements determining their somatotypes most influentially are, unlike adults' case the size of body skeleton rather than posture or lateral body shape. The type I showed less dimensions in most scales than type II, while their shoulder were les developed,. The type I was found distributed much in 4-year-old female kids. The type II showing more development in each element was found distributed much in 6-year-old male kids.
This study analyzed the fit-zone of the neck for females in their 60s. We considered the standard body types of females in their 60s and the four body types from the sixth Size Korea. The results of the study were as follows. We could not determine a pattern formula for the neck based on the changes in the body type of females in their 60s. However, the position of the lateral neck point generally showed a significant difference from that of females in their 20s. In the case of the shoulder angle, the point of the shoulder was angled slightly towards the back in all body types. It was also found that the curve of the neck circumference for both the collar and the bodice should have been smoother than what was shown on the 3D shape. The larger the height difference between the point of the back of the neck and the lateral neck point in the 3D shape, the smoother the design should be at the curve of the circumference at the front of the neck. A larger curvature in the front radius of the 3D shape increased the difference in the shape of the curve between the collar and the basic pattern of the bodice. Hence, a more careful design is required for these parts of the pattern. In addition, the more the front neck is bent, the smoother the circumference curve should be in the pattern design at the front of the neck and the collar.
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