• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.107-119
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to explore ways toward the hat design development by looking into the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the works of Philip Treacy, the designer who raised hats to one of the important fashion accessories. This study concretely investigates the formative characteristics of Treacy's hats in terms of shapes, materials, colours and decorations. According to this study, the shape of his hats shows the natural and specific objects in three dimensions, not in basic shape of hats. He uses combination of a variety of materials, adding unique materials to existing ones, so that they not only create a specific atmosphere but also extend the limitation which used to be thought as materials for hats. In the field of colour, he mainly used black and white until 1999, but since 2000 he has been using vivid and splendid colors. And he uses feathers or nets for decorations of the hats. As the result of the comprehensive analysis of Treacy's works, this study characterizes his works by surrealistic, three-dimensional, rhythmic and future-oriented. Therefore, Philip Treacy's hat design can be defined three dimensional considering the formative beauty, and can be characterized by use of unique materials, vivid & bold colours, moderate decorations, f variety of lines, and asymmetrical structures. These characteristics show surrealistic, three-dimensional and futuristic message which rhythm can be felt. He presents unlimited capability in hat designs as a representative of human being's basic will for creating new ones beyond this real world. It is considered that this study can help broaden the limitation of the hat design which used to repeat simple forms in the Past and help explore ways for developmental direction of hat design in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.19-34
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• 2010

This study aims to examine associationistic psychology and psychological operation associated with each color image, then to study the relation between particular colors used in paintings produced by Gogh and Klimt in different times and these painters' psychology in a bid to explore the meaning and role of psychological operation of colors. The findings of the study indicated that red and blue colors represent mainly negative images, while yellow and orange colors represent mainly positive images and psychologies. Specifically, in the case of Gogh, red expresses anxiety, a negative image, yellow symbolizes passion, a major positive image of emotional liberation, dark and thick green and the green involving blue symbolize negative images, emptiness and despair, and blue represents negative images of internal desire conflicts, and screaming. Also, purple used together with white represents anxiety and depression. In the case of Klimt, red represents negative images of anger toward mother and suppressed energy, yellow, an alternative to gold color, symbolizes the positive image of hope, passion, desire and eroticism, the arrangement of strong gold and orange colors represents a color of psychological healing more than a color of hope. As such, colors used in paintings produced by modern Western painters express the physiological conditions, psychological feeling and emotion in life, at the time when the artists produced such works. It was found that colors are yet another language of expressing emotions, and symbolize the psychologies of the artists, indicating that colors have something to do with the painters' experience and emotional impulses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.107-119
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• 2008

This study aims to define the concept of the futuristic image in fashion since 2000. In this study, earlier studies of the futuristic images in the fashion are analyzed and it is discovered that the most important characteristics of the futuristic images are the cosmic space and virtual reality. An analysis of actual data of the futuristic images of the fashion since 2000 produces the following conclusions. First, since 2000 the futuristic fashion to convey the image of space tends to be minimalist, taking H or A silhouette and using white, silver, or other vivid colors. Second, since 2000 the image of virtual reality is often expressed in the fashion of futuristic image as female fighters or vampires of the future who mostly wear pants suit or skirts that expose the body line. Materials of advanced technology or shiny leather are often used and dark colors including black are dominant in these images. Third, when the space image is expressed, the androgynous youth is emphasized. However when female fighters or vampires of the future are shown, sexual image of gloomy atmosphere is often stressed. Fourth, the fashion of futuristic image since 2000 takes up the space age look of the 1960s and the techno-cyber look of the 1980s and the 1990s. However their internal meanings are lost and only external forms are repeated. In sum, the current fashion of futuristic image emulates the past look of the fashion which was circulated as futuristic images and may be considered as a result of combination of futuristic image and retrospective image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.146-155
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• 2011

This study examines the design characteristics of figure skating costumes by a content analysis of their design elements. The content analysis method for the study was used based on 185 photos of female figure skaters. A total of 218 coding units in 15 categories were used. In the category of color, unicolor costumes were the mainstay and represented 48.11% of the total costumes. Black costumes showed the highest rate (13.51%), followed by red (7.57%) and blue (7.03%). In the dual-color costumes, combinations of red and black and white and black, represented 4.32% of all costumes. A camisole was the most popular type of neckline (20.54%). Stand collars with neck decorations were found in 5.95% of the costumes. In addition, 98.2% of all figure skating costumes had decorations (crystal beads 21.86% were the most frequently used decoration type), 65.41% exposed all the shoulders and arms, 70.81% of the costumes did not have sleeves, 5.41% of the costumes had arm decorations, and 3.78% had wrist decorations. In the analysis of the hem of skirts, 32.40% had a curved line, 30.73% had a straight line, and 15.08% had an unrecognizable form. In general, the figure skating costumes have stand collars with neck decorations, arm and wrist decorations, and irregular skirt hems that are not found in everyday dresses. To emphasize and intensify a theatrical effect, the costumes were fabulously decorated with spangles, crystal beads, feathers, and lace; black, red, and blue were frequently used. The skirts had frills, fringe, flared lines, and beads on them to reflect the stage lights and emphasize movements.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.45-57
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• 2006

The purpose of this research was to find the present condition on dementia patients clothes design including shapes, colors, construction and details in domestic. This research was for confirming the present problems, suggestions, and basic informations for development dementia patients clothes proto-types. The research methods and process were as follows; 1. The total 20 institutes (5 dementia specialty hospitals, 3 the senior hospitals and 11 nursing care centers) were researched during from June to August, 2005 by trained researchers who had experiences researches. 2. The total 30 nurses and care-givers were interviewed for find the present problems related the dementia patients clothes. 3. The total 39 suits for dementia patients clothes were collected and the design analysed such like shapes, colors, constructions and details by taking pictures and drawing flat works. 4. The present condition about the clothes and problems were found and suggest new ideas. The results were belows; 1 The most of institutes of domestic area had two piece type like general hospital patients' clothes for dementia patients clothes. It means there are no concerning now for old dementia patients. 2. The white colors were firstly used as fabric ground and secondly pale tone or pastel tone colors were used The blue and pink were used as pattern colors. The pattern colors were usually moderate tones. 3. The characteristics of constructions and details were round neckline, buttons, full-length sleeves, straight pants, ankle length pants. 4. New functional fabrics and designs for emotional satisfaction were demanded for dementia patients.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.63-73
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to be of use for more successful prediction of possible Prevailing aesthetic characteristics in the future, by reviewing how decadent features have actually been unfolded in fashion and make-up since the end of 20th century, as we are now in the new 21st century. The decadent traits of modern fashion and make-up since the late'90s could be listed as follows : first, the fashion has intentionally been designed to look disgusting, where realistic and imaginary images coexist, by using a half-man, half-machine image or vividly describing detestable animal skin, There have also been disgusting features in the make-up, which are so extremely weird that we can created by adding vinyl or pieces of textiles like Patch of the 17th century. Second, the satanic character of the fashion seems to be meant to keep in harmony with evil image such as Dracula, witch, skeleton or warrior of the evil, in order to charge the unnatural, inhuman and fin-de-siecle Phenomenon and find out what It really means for the inner world of men. And the demonic expressions of the make-up chiefly use white or black color or blue color of low saturation or low lightness, and part of facial features is exaggerated or shortchanged. Third, the decadent characteristics are expressed in the fashion by attaching sensational ornament to the human bode or using sexual exposure. So they give unnatural, unsound and extremely erotic impressions. The decadent features in the make-up are generated by excessively using a gay red color or sensational, exciting colors. Fourth, the exoticism of the fashion is largely affected by China's Chipaoh, Japan's Kimono or primitive motives from Africa, as there are increasing interests in Asia. And that of the make-up leans toward the East, as Kabuki make-up from Japan, Kyongkeuk make-up from China or the primitive features from Africa are employed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.17-32
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• 2015

This study aims to examine the differences in impression formation according to the accessories and hairstyles worn by men, and to investigate the relation between men's appearance and occupation inferences. The subjects were 320 female university students residing in the Seoul metropolitan area. First, wearing eyeglasses gave an impression of more intelligent image and less mild image. It was evaluated that the men wearing neckties have a high dimension of intelligence, and men wearing no necktie have a high dimension of progressiveness. Men with classic hairstyles had a high dimension of intelligence, while men with sports hairstyles had a high dimension of progressiveness, conspicuousness, and attractiveness. Second, metal rims on glasses had a high dimension of empowerment and attractiveness when a red necktie was worn, while horn-rimmed glasses with no necktie had a high dimension of conspicuousness and progressiveness. The men with sports hairstyles, with no eyeglasses had the highest dimension of progressiveness when a red necktie was worn. Third, it was evaluated that wearing a cloche hat or baseball cap had a low dimension of empowerment, while wearing a necklace had a high dimension of empowerment, conspicuousness, and progressiveness. Fourth, the men who wore a suit, eyeglasses, and a necktie with a classic hairstyle were deduced to be professionals, with high-ranking or white-collar jobs. It was found that when men wore a suit with a sports hairstyle, no eyeglasses, and no ties, they were inferred to be engaged in a service job. The baseball caps were strongly associated with technical or simple labor job.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 1979

This is a study on angels' costumes in religious paintings, especially as this relates to the questions of concepts and theological symbolism. Angels, as spiritual creatures in Christian thought, play the role of praising God's glory, as messengers of God, the role of guarding Israel and the Church, and protecting or punishing human beings. Sometimes the angels appear in incarnate form. They display no sexual differences and are not able to procreate. The angels' funtional classification being thus; nevertheless, they are pictured in various costumes and appearances according to characteristics of the paintings. The angel Michael appears as a man of dignity when pictured as a guard; the angel Gabriel in the annunciation is often portrayed as a woman of mystical beauty. Under the Renaissance, the mighty cherubim and seraphim at Yahweh's throne are degraded as plump child-angels, or winged child-heads looking alike Eros or Cupid. They have become playful and all too obviously non-heavenly chrubs, accepted features of the Temple decorations. However, cherubim are often depicted as naked or wrapped around with a piece of cloth and accompanied with wind, which symbolizes the Glory of God. The angels, costumes without seam are hung over or wrapped around the body, and when sewn they are simple and ample enough that they fall in a great many folds. However, by the 14C. angels are mostly dressed in costumes common to all Europe, and after that angels gradually appear in folk costumes; for example Italian, Flemish, etc. Dalmatic, the typical costume of Byzantine often shows up as angels' dresses even after the period. Originally the dalmatic was the Roman tunic to which Eastern influences added. The Roman clavus on the tunic had gradually lost distinction until, by the Imperial epoch, it was worn by the lowest servants. It was proudly therefore, as 'The servants of God', that the early Christians are shown wearing the clavus on their wide, ungirdled, sleeved dalmatics. In addition to their costume, angels have some other distinct charateristics. First, angels have a halo around their head; this symbolizes their holiness. Second, angels wear a narrow diadem or a queen's crown that seems to denote their glorious status close to God's throne. Third, the cloth band across the breast resembles a priest's stole, which suggests the sacred role of a priest and symbolizes the grace santified. Fourth, lilies in the annunciations are symbols of Mary's virginity. chastity, innocence and heavenly bliss. Angels hold palms or olives in their hands. The former denote prosperity. beauty and the Christians' reward after death; the latter represent peace and amity. the imperial crown made of olives means victory. Fifth, angels in paintings always have a pair of wings, which can be traced to scripture where cherubim and seraphim are described as having pairs of wings. Angels' wings often have colors of the rainbow, and the rainbow is compared to God's glory. Sixth, generally artists paint angels' costumes as white, blue, green, gold and purple. Other colors such as red rarely appear. According, to scriptures it is believed that angels should be depicted 'as white as snow'. According to the biblical expressions of angels as lightning, sun or a pillar of fire, angels should be described as creatures of light. Nevertheless being a form of art, religious paintings may differ in their presentation according to an artist's inspiration and intention. Since religious paintings illustrated above were almost all done before the Reformation, symbols of colors used in the Catholic Church will also be mentioned. The white color symbolizes chastity, purity, brightness, delight and divinity. Green represents new birth, eternal life, spiritual revival and the expectance of the grace of God. Blue, the color of sapphires, denotes chastity and truth. Red, the color of rubies, represents divinity, love and religious passion. Violet is the color of dignity, indicating the sovereign, royal or imperial power and the great Sacrifice of Christ. As mentionad above, angels' costumes were expressed in accordance with contemporary patterns or as indicated in the Bible, and accesories and colors correspond with Christian symbols. Therefore these facts should be taken into consideration when it comes to the study of costume history.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.55-68
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• 2003

The purpose of this research is to expand the realm of a button for a decorative purpose through embossing the effect and gravity of a button in fashion by designing the new ceramic buttons which are mainly used for decorative function in costume. In order to acquire a motif for the design, I analyzed several works of Gustav Klimt. As the result, those feature can be classified into the use of decorative lines, mosaic forms, and harmony of golden yellow and black, and it can be applied to buttons and clothes design. The sort of clay used in manufacturing the ceramic buttons was white clay to have high density and to diffuse light well, and press shaping techniques using plaster mold were employed. The baking was performed in an electronic kiln at $800^{\circ}C$ for the first time and at $1250^{\circ}C$ for the second time. Based on wearable designs in 2002/2003 F/W Trend of Interfashion Planning, I made three pieces of dress which could express the button's capability of decoration with effect. This is expressing a simplified form which shows up in details of and yellow and red pink were used to harmonize with golden yellow clothes. As an application of shapes of foliage in I transformed its size and form to be consistent with a jacket and a tube top. To accord with golden beige costume, I made a curve, showing up in Klimt's paintings, with golden color on a circle shape which was also a main motif in his paintings.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.99-116
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• 2008

This study reviewed pertinent literature and examined relics of manggon(a headband worn to hold a man's topknot hair in place), donggot(a topknot pin), and chigwan(a topknot cover). Before the modernized short hair style, wearing a gat was an important custom. Therefore, manggon, which was used to hold a man's hair in place under the gat, was considered an essential part of the man's official dress code. Donggot is a pin that held the topknot hair in place. It was a must have for a married man, like the binyeo, a lod-like hairpin, for a married woman. Unlike gwanja, it had nothing to do with official rank, but materials were of a variety of materials, including jade and gold. The structure of the donggot was studied in three parts-head, neck and body. Major forms for the head include the mushroom, bean and ball. Bullet and half-cut bullet forms were also found. Forms for the neck include straight-neck and curved-neck. A neck with a belt around a double chin was also found. Forms for the body include the tetrahedron, octahedron and cylinder. The most popular form for silver and white bronze donggot heads was the mushroom, followed by bean and pile forms. Chigwan is also called chipogwan, chichoal, choalgyesogwan, noingwan and sangtugwan. In poetry it was called chichoal, and it used to be called taegogwan in the past as well. Chigwan was so small that it managed to hold a topknot. According to confucian custom in the Joseon period, by wearing chigwan, men didn't display their bare topknot even when they didn't dress up. When they went out, they wore another official hat over the chigwan.