• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.47-61
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• 2013

This paper compared and analyzed costume design shown in two movies that was adapted from the same original work, 'Snow White'. One movie consists of a western director and a western designer team while the other movie is shot by an Asian director and an Asian designer team. Two movies show similarity and difference in expression of characters in 'Snow White'. The findings are as followed;- Both movies project an image of modern women, which is mainly represented by active and confident women, However, Ishioka Eiko, the costume designer of < Mirror, Mirror >, created unique costume in the movie by applying splendid and vivid colors to western costume to make exotic feeling. On the other hand, Colleen Atwood, who was inspired by costume in each historic period and region of the Western. created costume that was closer to the tradition of the Western in his movie, < Snow White and the Huntsman >. The purpose of this study is to help the Korean movie industry to find a way to advance to the world market by fully understanding how the Easterners and the Westerners feel and express 'Snow White'. Moreover, this study may present a chance to review importance and value of the movie costume design area.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.82-99
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate the traditional costume colors in ancient Korea. The results of this study can be summarized follows : The traditional costume colors in ancient Korea was affected on Chineses goverment official\`s costume colors, specially in Tongil Silla Dynasty. Goverment official\`s costume colors were purple(紫), red(赤), yeoolw(黃), blue(靑). The traditional Korean colors for clothes were devided in the white costume for low class and the colored costume of high class. The traditional Korean colors for colthes became fixed in the later Chosun dynasty, According to developing of dyeing technic, the prohibition of red costume for low class made for wear red undercloth. And on account of costume color in sumptuary law occured the transition of costume color. As transition of costume color, yellow(黃) changed in light in light yellow(松花色), purple(紫) did in dark green purple(茶割) Also it was found that the traditional Korean color for clothes was many kinds of soft, deep, natural colors out of red(紫)·yellow(黃)·white(白)·black(黑)·blue(靑).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권10호
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• pp.1629-1639
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to research the similarity and difference of color application in the culture of Korea and Japan. The subject of this research is the costume color of Changgeuk and Kabuki. This survey analyzes Munsell's 3 attributes(Hue, Value, Chroma), tone, and 3D color analysis by extracted color data. And representative color according to Obangsaek is proposed. The results of this study are as follows: 1. High chroma red in Kabuki costume is more used as symbolic color(passion and luxurious) in order to show character's personality than that in Changguek costume. 2. Low chroma YR color(no-dyeing color) in Changgeuk costume much more used because of Korean white robe preference and eco-friendly thinking. But high chroma yellow is restrictive color for symbolic color of emperor in Korea and Japan. 3. Blue is most frequently used in both costumes because blue is encouraging color by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine. 4. White in Korean Changguek costume is more used for white robe preference thinking, but black in Kabuki costume is much more used for symbol of power in Japan. The similarity of Korean and Japanese cultural color is to use much Obangsaek, less Ogansaek by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine, but the difference of Korean and Japanese cultural color is to use color differently according to preference thinking system.

• 복식
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• 제49권
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• pp.95-112
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to research of color symbol on white in the Virgin Mary and an Infant jesus icons. For this purpose icons were selected and analyzed from the medieval ages to the 18th century. The results were as follows. Icons on the subject of the Annnunciation and the Nativity should be expressive of nobility immaculacy and innocence of the Virgin Mary and an Infant Jesus. With this view white was used to be color of candle a waxing moon lily kettle dress bedspredad towel wall encircled garden and became symbolic color in the Icons. As a result the color symbol of white the meaning of immaculacy and innocence disseminated according to spread of the Christian religion. In these days though elimination of the religious meaning the white color is using continuosly as a symbolic color of immaculacy and innocence.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2006

This study purposed to examine Korean people's white clothes custom historically and to explain the aesthetic consciousness latent in the custom. Korean people preferred white clothes, even up to foreigners called them White-clad folk. Not only as in old historical literatures, but also in Soo-suh, Shin-Dang-suh including Sam-Kuk-Ji in China, white clothes were a real symbol to Korean people, ranging chronically far back to the age of ancient tribal countries, Sam-Kuk Period through Koryo Dynasty and even to modern age near the end of Chosun Dynasty, wearing with pleasure regardless of age, sex or social position. Even King himself in Koryo Dynasty is said to have worn white clothes when he was out of official hours. During the Koryo and Chosun Dynasty, white clothes were sometimes prohibited for various reasons including conflicts with the theories of yin-yang and the five elements but such regulations were not effective. To Korean people, white clothes were ordinary people's everyday dress as well as noble people's plain suits, saints' uniforms with religious meanings, ceremonial costumes, funeral garments, etc. The various uses show that white clothes have been worn by many people. The unique custom that a People have worn white clothes consistently for such a long time may contain very deep symbolic meanings representing the people's sentiments and spirits. The present study understood that the meanings come from religious sacredness, magical wish for brightness, the pursuit of purity originating from the people's national traits, assimilation with nature and the will to attain whole ascetic personality. Aesthetic attitudes based on aesthetic values summed up as sacredness, brightness, purity, assimilation with nature, asceticism, etc. are the aesthetic consciousness pursued by Koreans through their white clothes. For Koreans, white color is the origin of their color sense coming from primitive religions such as worshipping the sun and the heaven. In this way, Korean people's preference for white clothes began with primitive religions, was mixed with various social, cultural and religious influences and finally was settled as their durable spirit, symbol and beauty.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.455-467
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in classical novel 'Shimchungjun' focusing on the woman's costume through the antique records and tombs bequests. Titled ladies for royal family put on 'Wooimkyoryong' and 'Sungun' as a petticoat when the ladies of Song period rode on horses. The underskirt played a part to swell a skirt for ladies. 'Bakjueui' and 'Hwangsangi' were ordinary clothes ranging from ladies of loyal family to women. The red color was limited to royal family. The ordinary clothes of women were white ramie clothes commonly and floral patterned clothes were prohibited to the ordinary clothes for women. 'Ko', a breast-tie (breast ribbon) of a Korean coat, was made of silk and women wear as an outer garment. The common people will wear 'Ko' of white ramie clothes which was very active items. The ladies of royal family and women put on shoes made of white ramie clothes, but the full dress of queen wore blue boots made of leather. The noble women wore 'Suk'(boots) made of deer skin and common people wore straw shoes regardless of gender and age. Sometimes they wore 'Woopihye' made of cowhide. In the first of Koryo era, the styles of dress were consisted of 'Monso', 'Eui', 'Po', 'Dae', 'Koh', 'Sang', 'Sungkun' and 'Kangnang'. The structure of costume for women made little difference and there was a great difference with decoration.

• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.7-16
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• 1993

Influnced by the official uniform system of China, the colour culture of Korea has changed with time. The ancient colour has included the philo-sophical conception as well as the meaning of thoughts. Forming its tradition, the colour has been accepted in usual life. The philosophy of the Five Element has been developed in the area of Oriental culture and it has influnced to the colour of costume. The five colours(blue, red, yellow, white and black) as the Five Elements colours have disticted the social position. Owing to the fackt, the colour costume has preserved the important meaning. In accordance with the theory of the Five Elements the five colours of costume told its purpose, social position and age. Moreover the relationship among the Five Elements, the direction and the reason have been applied to it with time. Yellow and red have been usually used by kings and high ranking officals, white has been the basic colour for traditional Korean clothes, which hs indicated the integrity symbolizing our race. The Five Elements Colours preserving the theory of Korean the Five Elements have been the conception of Korean traditional colour and they have been developing as the meaning of custom.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권1호
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• pp.121-132
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• 2015

All aspects of clothing, including color, are a visible form of expression that carries invisible value. The purpose of this work is to study the expression of resistance in the white Hanbok in modern culture, specifically after the 1980s. Koreans have traditionally revered white color and enjoyed wearing white clothes. In Korea, white represents simplicity, asceticism, sadness, resistance against corruption, and the pursuit of innocence. This paper looks at: (i) the universal and traditional values of the color white, (ii) the significance of traditional white Korean clothing, (iii) the resistance characteristics of white in traditional Korean clothes, and (iv) the aesthetic values of white Hanbok. The white Hanbok often connotes resistance when it is worn in modern Korea. It is worn in folk plays, worn by shamans as a shamanist costume, worn by protestors for anti-establishment movements, and worn by social activists or progressive politicians. The fact that the white Hanbok has lost its position as an everyday dress in South Korea (instead symbolizing resistance when it is worn) is an unusual phenomenon. It shows that the white Hanbok, as a type of costume, is being used as a strong means of expression, following a change in the value of traditional costumes as it take on an expressive function.

• 복식
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• 제60권3호
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• pp.123-137
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is contemplating and substantiating Korean Empire's court costume through relics and photos. Additionally, the meaning of the pattern of Mugunghwa as the national symbol in the court costume is considered. The results of this study are following. First, a phased introduction of western-style court costume was executed through Ulmi Reformation in 1895 and Court Costume Rule in 1900. U1mi Reformation was characterized by transitional reformation because newly introduced system and traditional costume consolidated in costume. Under Court Costume Rule, however, by accepting western-style on contemporary costume, modernized style was settled in every respect of form and matter. The court costume comprised bicorn, coat, vest, pantaloon, sword, sword belt, white collar and white gloves at audience with the Emperor. Second, by examination of the relics of Chigimgwan and Juimgwan, it was confirmed that the court costume was manufactured in foreign countries such as France and Russia on the basis of order. It was also identified by pictures that court costume was worn by diplomats dispatched. Third, the pattern of Mugunghwa in court costume was featured by embroidery of 6 petal pattern. And the pattern of Mugunghwa, as national symbol, has important meaning in view of history and national affection, while Japanese and European adopted the crest of the royal household. In summary, Korean Empire proclaimed modernized court costume institution to handle international relationship driven by West. It was uneasy reformation in adopting western court costume imported from overseas because its textile and style were completely different from traditional costume. However, the willingness of Korean Empire should be reevaluated in the history of Korean costume, in that Korean Empire established court costume proclaimed its sovereignty domestically and overseas, and that the pattern chosen as national symbol was that of Mugunghwa which is current national flower.

• 복식
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• 제59권2호
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• pp.143-153
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to provide color information in order to planning and merchandising in china fashion through the color of Beijing opera. In objective study, we collect total 302 Beijing opera images. The collecting method of source data is to extract digital color data by color picker. We transform RGB color data to H V/C, CIE L*a*b and analyze the attributes of color and tone, three-dimensional analysis. The results of this study are as follows : 1. The color distrbution of Beijing opera is R(26.9%)>YR(18.2%)>PB(11.6%)>Y(9.6%). Traditional preference color, red is most popular color as 26.7%:, the practice of vivid tone red is numerous. 2. The tone distribution of Beijing opera costume is P(16%)>It(13.9%)>d(11%)>5(9.6%)>4kg (8.2%)>b(7.1%:). The value o# Beijing opera costume distribute medium and medium-high and the chroma of those distributes low. 3. High chroma yellow is restrictive color as the symbol of emperor in china but medium-low chroma yellow is very frequently used. 4. Blue is often used in china costume. Especially in Beijing opera costume blue is symbol of bravery, dignity, cruel character 5. White in Beijing opera costume is much used for symbol of righteous loyalist. Black is less used than white in Beijing opera costume and black is authority color for symbol of the prime minister.