• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to study the cause of obstruction in various knit pattern structures by understanding the needs of the customers, and to develop knitted fabric goods that satisfy the individual taste of consumers and that reflecting the latest fashions. Actual conditions of the manufacturer's designing processes must be examined. In addition, a comparison analysis of fashion sensibilities and preferences between producers and consumers had been made in order to study developing knit pattern structures. Questionnaires and interviews had been used as research methods. The research involved two groups: one group consisted of 57 producers, which included designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, while the other group consisted of 74 consumers, which included students with knitted fabric design as their major and those who have working knowledge of knitted fabrics. For a more accurate evaluation, 28 out of 150 patterns have been selected through a preliminary study conducted by 24 designers. On the 28 knit patterns, a sensibility evaluation had been made through the use of the sense of sight and sense of touch, which was followed by a frequency analysis, cluster analysis, and t-test using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: the fashion sensibility evaluation on knit patterns showed that structures, such as racking II or lace II, are typically elegant ('elegance'), while structures, such as links I or racking I, are typically 'active.' Furthermore, a 'country' image was displayed in structures such as cable I, cable II, and miss II. Links I appeared as 'sophisticated'. Miss I and milano were said to have 'modem' images. Lace II was regarded as 'ethnic', while racking II was said to have a 'romantic' image. 2:1 rib and milano were generally thought to be manly ('manish'). The fashion sensibility scale for each knit pattern has been made based on the above results. Based on producer and consumer responses, the sensibility evaluation on knit pattern structures showed that the two groups had similar preferences in knit pattern structures. Therefore, the fashion sensibility scale developed in this study can be used as a basic data for structure development when designing knitted fabric goods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1153-1164
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to knitted nine kinds of single knit and examined mechanical properties and hand to provide the fact that knit, tuck and miss stitch applied to various structure have an effect on hand of weft knitted fabrics. It was good to use tuck stitch rather than miss stitch to increase elasticity of knitted fabrics. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were double or triple overlaps, tensile resilence(RT) decreased by increase of friction contacted among stitch. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were knitted double or triple, bending rigidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB) and shearing(G) properties increased by jamming of stitch. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were overlap, thickness increased and they became thicker than miss stitch. Also, as they became thicker by these tuck stitch and miss stitch, compressional energy(WC) increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction(MIU) of cross tuck stitch was larger than coefficient of cross miss stitch. Mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) had a tendency to be larger as tuck stitch and miss stitch increased. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were overlaps double or triple, KOSHI and FUKURAMI increased, total hand value(TIV) and NUMERI appeared high in double cross tuck stitch and double cross miss stitch.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.583-597
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to classify and analyze the deconstruction phenomena expressed in contemporary knit fashion design, and to analyze the inner meaning of deconstruction based on certain characteristics. As a method of study, literature data for theoretical backgrounds, prior studies, and internet data were analyzed. The scope of this study was restricted to knitwear published in the world's four major collections (Milan, Paris, New York and London) from 2014 F/W to 2018 S/S. Based on prior studies, four concepts of deconstruction were derived: "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$", "Intertextuality", "Intermeaning of Meaning", "Dis De Phenomenon". The results of the study were as follows: first, "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$" refers to a transcendence of time and space. These expressions are discursive, unrealistic, and convey freedom through intent that deviates from rules and norms. Second, "Intertextuality" indicates a mixture of different texts, such as styles, materials, and items. These expressions deliver novelty with amusement, and can be entertaining depending on audience expectations. Third, "Intermeaning of Meaning" is accidental category - depending on how the wearer wears the clothing. -; accordingly, free and spontaneous creativity is an emerging trend in fashion. Fourth, the clothing was expressed in deformed and distorted form by the construction and destruction of the structure, a technique we describe as the "Dis De Phenomenon". In this concept, the sense of free design of young emotion appears along with the sense of purity and shock due to intentional inconsistency.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.179-196
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• 2013

This research is about the mechanical properties of knit pullover of Shaping and WholeGarment according to structured patterns and form of the armhole. For the study 12 samples are prepared under different conditions and through comparative analysis of each sample's armhole around armpit in basic properties, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation after repeated extensions, the conclusion is as follows. As a result of comparing basic properties of structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, in all structured patterns Shaping samples weighed more. According to the comparative analysis of tensile strength & elongation of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, Machi on both sides of WholeGarment samples showed the highest strength. By comparing outcome of residual elongation by structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, both types were observed to have the residual elongation increase in the order of Plain

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.52-68
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• 2012

To achieve the aim of this study, 9 different types of samples were made to examine mechanical property according to structured pattern and type of Machi of pullover armhole of WholeGarment(seamless knitwear). With respect to samples, from which comparisons are made and anaylzed among basic characteristics of material, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation due to repeated extension of armhole connecting part, the following conclusions could be obtained. It's revealed that the tensile strength of Machi part as being armhole connecting part of samples is more affected by Machi type than pattern structure. Of Machi types, it showed stronger tensile strength in the order of Normal(Normal Machi)< Machi_B(unilateral Machi)

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.23-30
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• 2006

The bending properties, wrinkle resistance, and fabric retention behaviors of cotton knitted fabrics in the wale and course directions were studied for their dependence upon resin finishing, knit structure, and washing cycles. Stiffness, wrinkle recovery angles, and dimensional stability were investigated before and after resin finishing and laundering. It has been found that any change in the physical properties of the knitted fabrics with respect to knit structure and fabric directions are related to accompanying modifications to the state of the fiber properties. The decrease of fabric shrinkage rates and wrinkle recovery properties from increasing laundering cycles is related with resin incorporated on the fiber surface. This study shows that resin finishing on knitted fabrics can be performed only to improve fabric retention properties with reduced wrinkle recovery properties.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2001.04b
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• pp.243-246
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.23-36
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• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.165-176
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of various knitted fabrics of sports socks on their properties of hygiene and stability. Seventeen men\`s sports socks to represent five groups with different fiber content, knit structure, yarn fineness, and finishing were used. Properties of hygiene and stability of socks were determined. The results were as follows ; 1. Evaluation of Water, vapor and heat transport properties in socks with varing fiber content showed that cotton 100% socks had the highest drop absorbency, wickability, water absorbency and water retention. Polypropylene 100% socks had an excellent wickability and moisture permeability. Acrylic blend socks had the highest thermal resistance. 2. The greatest knit stretch and knit growth of socks having lower power were found to be with cotton 100% socks had the lowest stretch. Acrylic blend socks had a excellent stretch but low fabric growth, which could give a good fir sensation during wear. 3. The commerical antimicrobial finished socks showed excellent durability after repeated cycles of laundering. 4. Length and width shrinkages were found in all laundered samples during initial cycles due to rearrangement by mechanical relaxation. Shrinkages showed no further changes and reached equilibriums after 5 cycles. Cotton 100% or cotton blend socks showed lower dimensional stability than other socks during fabric care.