• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.148-165
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to establish a theory about the necessary structure for knitwear design, and to propose it with the practical data through the actual development of a high value added knit structure. For this study, the market was conducted along with literature reviews on the existing studies and the relevant books about knit structures. The market research aimed at the products released in the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons of 2012-2013, focusing on brand for middle aged women. The utilization of the structure by item and the characteristics of knit design were studied. The research was conducted on S/S products in May and July, and F/W products in October and December. As a result of the market research, it was shown that the lightweight structures with permeability such as plain, lace, links and links, this is repeated and rib structure were frequently utilized during the S/S season, while double structures with good shape stability were greatly utilized during the F/W season. Also, during the F/W season, a cable structure and tubular jacquard that emphasized the volume or cubic effect were frequently used, and there were many jacquard structures where a change of color sense and motive were added. Concerning the knit structures development, the researcher designed the knit structure at the actual production site of the knit fashion. A total of 5 pieces of knit structures were developed by asking a professional for programming and knitting. To the developed structures, the study added a multi-gauged effect, herringbone transformation effect, 3-dimensional surface effect, color effects, geometric patterns, lace penetration effect, and soft surface effect in a water-drop shape. In addition, the structures had differences in the added values by mixing various structures and diversely expressing color sense on the knitting line. This study proposes the direction for 21st century knitwear product design, through the development of a high value added knit structure.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.163-173
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• 2011

The objective of this study is to examine the current status of manufacturing formal knit jackets for middle-aged women. Fifteen manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were chosen as the study subjects, and interviews and questionnaires were used with patterners and designers. The questionnaire was composed of 27 items and began with general questions, such as how the jackets were manufactured. Specific questions, such as materials and sewing method, were also considered further on. The results are as follows: First, as for the structure of the knit jacket manufacturer, seven out of fifteen manufacturers directly manufactured knit jackets in their own factory, while the manufacturing was comprised of 20% woven jackets and 80% knit jackets for all manufactures. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in knitting the fabric for the jackets, satin yarn and wool were used mostly for F/W with Plain and Half Milano rib stitches as the type of knit with a gauge of 12G and 7G. Third, as for the margin between the product size of the target brand and the size of the body at the time of designing a knit jacket pattern, the investigation of the actual state of manufacturing showed that the margin at the bust was B+4.8cm, the waist was W+6.9cm, and the hip girth was H+5cm. Therefore, the bust and hip girth of the knit jackets were designed to be smaller than those of the bust and hip girth lines of non-flexible woven jackets. On the contrary, the waist measurement of non-flexible woven jacket was designed to be smaller than the knit jacket. It was found that the side line of the knit jacket was expressed with greater give as compared to that of the non-flexible woven jacket.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.157-165
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to investigate the actual conditions of the manufacturer's design processes. Questionnaires were sent out, and 57 interviews were used as research methods including designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, followed by a frequency analysis using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: knitted fabric goods were the top choices in casual wear. Brand image depended on 'elegance', 'modernity', and 'romanticism', among other lifestyle pursuits. The distribution ratio of the 'basic' and the 'trendy' knit was at 3:7 or 7:3, while the ratio of 6:4 or 4:6 was more common. Knit structure was proven to be the most important factor in the changes in designs. Style and yam ranked second and third, respectively. In addition, details (embroidery and beading), color, pattern, and processing were among the other factors, in order of importance. Based on the difficulty in designing and manufacturing knitted fabric goods, 'manufacturing cost:' 'lack of a manufacturing facility for small production,' and 'limited delivery time' were among the reasons cited in the questionnaire. These results appeared to have been caused by small-scale manufacturers or small-scale manufacturing facilities that made small volume production difficult. The results of the interviews on knitted fabrics that were most frequently used and with the highest sales volumes showed that plain, lace, links & links, miss, and 1:1 rib were ranked accordingly for S/S use, while jacquard, cable, 1:1 rib, links & links, milano, plain, and half cardigan were ranked accordingly for F/W use.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.161-173
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• 2005

The Main objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between shopping orientations and Knit wear Buying Behavior of female college students in the U.S. age 18 to 33. The questionnaires for this survey were developed to measure knitwear purchasing behavior, including sources of information about knitwear, evaluative criteria of knit wear product, attributes f store preference for knitwear, and shopping orientation. The questionnaire was administered to 119 female college students in the University of California. The data was analyzed by percentage, frequency, mean, factor analysis, Cluster Analysis and ANOVA, Duncan Multiple Range test. The female college students were classified into five subdivisions by cluster analysis; cautious shopping group, recreational shopping group, self-confident shopping group, shopping indifferent group, price conscious shopping group. In the case of fashion information sources of knit wear, significant differences were found according to shopping orientation subdivision in observation of others' and famous people's clothing, fashion shows, fashion articles in magazines, newspapers, and on the Internet, and shop displays. The evaluation criteria of knit wear product were significantly different depending on shopping orientation subdivision in fashionable, brand and store name, appropriate for different occasion, prestige. The store attributes of knitwear were significantly different depending on shopping orientation subdivision in product knowledge of sales personnel, store atmosphere, display of merchandise, layaway payment plan, price level, ease of parking and access, and new fashion.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.79-98
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze and document special design elements of the knit material, such as yarn, stitch, and gauge used in various types of knit in a collection of men's fashion, and to provide basic data for database design. The analysis covers 37 brand collections of men's clothing, used to collect a total of 1,954 men's knitwear photographs, and others were collected from 12 collections from F/W to 2017 S/S collection through www.vogue.com. The results of the analysis of the knit design elements of the contemporary men's collection since 2011 are as follows. First, there were 1,513 straight yarn (77%) and 440 decorative yarn (23%) types of yarn. There were many different kinds of decorative yarn, such as two tone and melange effect in three colors, and the emergence of hairy yarn, like mohair and angora shannell, which was much common in low gauge's knitwear designs. Second, the frequency was high with low and middle gauges. thin and light high-gauges were often found in S/S collections, but there were also thick types of yarn in low-gauge knitwear. Third, 794 (40.6%) items used basic stitches such as plain stitch, which was the most utilized. The plain stitch, which is the most basic of the knit stitches, appears to be in high demand for its use, along with the use of various decorators. The development of printing and dyeing technologies has led to many designs that utilize the printer for the plain stitch. 326 (16.7 %), of colored jacard stitch, and of 175 (0.9 %) of intasia stitch.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.542-555
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• 2006

The main objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between benefits segmentation and knitwear purchasing behavior of college female students in the U.S. The questionnaires for this survey were developed to measure knitwear purchasing behavior and benefits segmentation. The questionnaire was administered to 119 female college students in the University of California. The data was analyzed by percentage, frequency, mean, factor analysis, Cluster Analysis and ANOVA, Duncan Multiple Range test. The female college students in the U.S. were classified into fourth subdivisions by the cluster analysis. In the case of fashion information sources of knit wear, significant differences were found according to benefits sought subdivision in observation of famous people's clothing, fashion articles in magazines and newspapers, TV advertisements, Newspaper advertisements, advice of salespeople, and Catalogs. The evaluation criteria of knit wear product of consumers were significantly different depending on benefits sought subdivision in design/style, quality of construction, fashionable, brand and store name, pleasing to others, prestige, and sexy. The store attributes of knitwear product of consumers were significantly different depending on benefits sought subdivision in friendliness of sales personnel, product knowledge of sales personnel, brand names, new fashion, and variety of products. The outlook for the industry of knitwear look to remain bright, there should be a continuous effort to research and invest in consumer satisfaction of knitwear.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.381-402
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• 2022

This study aimed to identify sub-dimensions of the authenticity and fictionality of a brand story and analyze the effects of authenticity and fictionality on customer-based brand equity. Data were obtained from a group of 213 males and females in their 20s and 30s living in Korea using an online survey institute. Results showed that the authenticity and fictionality of a brand story are composed of reality, excitement, exaggeration, fictional symbolism, influence, sincerity, relativeness, mysteriousness, and unreality. Of these, sincerity, excitement, reality, influence, and mysteriousness had significant effects on brand imagery; sincerity particularly exerted a relatively more substantial influence on brand imagery. Also, influence, mysteriousness, excitement, and relativeness impacted performance positively, and exaggeration impacted performance negatively. This indicated that a well-constructed brand story with authenticity and fictionality had a positive impact on the brand image. Excitement, mysteriousness, reality, relativeness, sincerity, and influence of a brand story had significant effects on brand judgement. In contrast, only excitement and influence positively impacted brand feelings, and unreality had a negative impact on feelings. The exciting and influential brand story impacted brand attitude. Also, brand image and attitude positively impacted sharing and purchase intention, while brand performance did not affect recommendation intention. These findings contribute to identifying a brand story's attributes, authenticity, and fictionality and provide insights for marketers on creating brand stories to increase brand image and attitude and to build customer-based brand equity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권6호통권59호
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• pp.934-945
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the content and presentation style of consumer information of Korean young casual apparel brand. To collect the data for this study, the representative 25 casual brand web sites were selected, based on major search engines. In addition, to investigate exact product information, four product categories, knit shirts and casual pants for men and women, were selected and the number of products was limited as maximum 15 products per each category. A coding instrument was developed to capture the consumer information, based on the instrument by Park and Stoel(2002). The Pretest was conducted to gauge inter-coder reliability and the results showed that inter-coder reliability was highly acceptable. The results of this study were as follows. Most casual brand web sites for this study were presented well in brand and customer service information. Especially, many web sites provided various engaging information such as various events(best dresser contest, date with a star, special gift) and useful multimedia file(MP3 music file, screen saver, movie, calender). However, product information was very lack in most web sites. Especially, sizing and fitting information and textile and fabric hand information were rarely provided. Therefore, this result showed that the web sites should provide more specific product information and develop devices to get tactile sensory and experiential information for enhancement of future e-commerce of apparel products.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2002년도 하계염색가공기술 세미나
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• pp.117-123
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• 2002

텐셀(tencel)은 영국의 섬유회사인 ACORDIS사가 생산하는 고급 천연소재의 Brand 이름으로 종래의 Rayon의 문제점을 개선한 차세대 섬유라는 것은 주지의 사실이다. 텐셀은 엄격한 기준을 거친 양질의 목재펄프에서 천연 셀룰로즈만을 채취해 100% 천연소재로 제조과정에서 유독 물질을 전혀 배출하지 않고 자연 속으로 완벽하게 생분해되는 환경 친화적인 소재이나 그동안 소재홍보에만 주력을 하여 염색가공 기술적인 측면은 진전이 없어 피브릴화로 일어나는 여러가지 품질상의 문제점을 갖고 있었다. (중략)

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권5호
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.