• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.91-91
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.88-99
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to express visual and functional diversity through modifiable design, and to suggest a methodological model. With this view, this study was aimed to departmentalize the case of knitwear in modifiable design of clothes and propose the possibility of variable knit fashion through make the most of knit's characteristics. Four wearable physical clothes using the most of flexible knits' characteristics were made for this study based on the modifiable design on the expressive tendency and analysis of plasticity. The following results were obtained. First, as modifiable knit design can create effects of several dresses in visual aspect and functional aspect, so it has practicality and functionality. Because modifiable clothes required wearer's participation, this have amusement that give enjoyment and freshness to wearer. Second, in mode of wearing, flexibility of knit is suitable character to open & close and change of wearing position. In manipulation, a prearranged plan for line of clothes and good choice of subsidiary materials are important. Third, the characteristics of knits allow using and mixing with different pattern and materials on the two sides of the same cloths except for the some of the parts. Moreover, there is no unraveled thread on the part of knits margin against woven, so it has the broad applicable range for the changeable design. Finally, the form and function, a prearranged plan for modifiable design of clothes have all contributed in creating new structure and patterns in design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.47-59
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• 2005

This study aims to measure stretch rate of standard weight in the $2{\times}1$ rib stitch and $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, and to apply features of rib stitch to the knit pattern. The reviewer examined the sample knit for test with 100% wool, $2/48's{\times}2$, 12 gauge, and then made knit patterns and sample clothes for test considering stretch rate of standard weight of 10gf, 15gf, 20gf, 25gf based on the results from the former test, and finally estimated the try-outs for sample clothes. This study came out with the following results: From the functional estimate of knit patterns made by standard stretch rate of each stitch, the 20gf weight sample clothes of $2{\times}1$ and $2{\times}2$ rib stitchs were in high estimate. For the bust, B/4~ -4.6cm knit pattern was made of $2{\times}1$ rib stitch, B/4~5.3cm of $2{\times}2$ rib stitch. In conclusion, because $2{\times}1$ and $2{\times}2$ rib stitchs has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than $0{\times}0$ ad $1{\times}1$ rib stitchs, high stretch rate of standard weight should be applied to the case of making knit wear. It is expected that this will lead stable sizing and measurement system when used in making knit patterns, and satisfy knit wearers' various needs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.518-532
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• 2008

The purposes of this study were to investigate the relationships between women's self-image and the preference and the wearing frequency of knit-wears, and to examine the characteristics of the design elements that influence the preferred knit-wear images. The subjects were 277 female college students and working women living in metropolitan area of Seoul. The data were analyzed by using descriptive analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach's $\alpha$-reliability coefficient, Pearson's correlation coefficient, and multiple regression analysis. Four dimensions of women's self-images were derived by factor analysis; elegance, conservativeness, individuality, and maturity. Women with conservative self-image preferred simple knit-wears and women with high rate for individuality preferred splendid and sporty knit-wears. Women with elegant self-image disliked sporty knit-wears. Women with conservative self-image preferred white, and those who rated their self-image to be individuality preferred various colors including yellow, blue, green, purple, pink, and sky-blue. Women with mature self-image preferred black and beige. Women with individuality as their self-image preferred jacquard pattern and abstract pattern. There was a higher wearing frequency for all four seasons for women with conservative self-image, and there was higher wearing frequency in the winter for those with elegant self-images. Women who preferred simple knit-wears showed preference for single color with no prints and low chroma color, and those who preferred sporty knit-wears showed preference for elastic materials. Women who preferred neat and elegant knit-wears showed preference for argyle check pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 2013

This study investigated the formation of silhouette and hemline shape of knit flare skirts according to the properties of knit material through virtual clothing with a 3D virtual clothing system called i-Designer of Technoa, thus building a database of the property data of knit material to reduce the number of sample making steps repeated and implemented several times in the process of clothes making. The results would help to estimate a silhouette in advance, offer assistance to the development of original knit wear, and explore ways to provide basic data for the development of the knit industry of the nation. The investigator made 12 kinds of experimental clothes to the angles(width of skirt: $90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge(7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain directions(wale and bias direction) of experimental clothes for virtual clothing. The dynamic characteristics of knit skirt samples according to each gauge were measured with the KES-FB system. Draper shapes were analyzed with the sectional shape data of hemline based on i-Designer. As for the measurements of the sectional shape of hemline and the formation of silhouette, the number of nodes, the average height of node mountains and valleys, and the hemline width right and left and before and after increased at the angle of $180^{\circ}$ than $90^{\circ}$. As gauges multiplied, the number of nodes, and silhouette angle dropping. When considering grain directions, the number of nodes and silhouette index increased in the wale direction at the angle of $90^{\circ}$ with the number of nodes and silhouette angle increasing in the wale direction at the angle of $180^{\circ}$.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.681-695
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• 2014

This study has the purpose to find basic materials for development of kindergarten's uniform and suggest the improvement of its design based on the survey results from Suncheon area in Jeollanam-do of Korea. Such study methods were conducted as literature review, survey with direct visit, interview, and photographing of dresses regarding the kindergarten uniform. The following are research results. First, kindergarten teachers presented a positive opinion about the necessity for children to wear the uniform. In selection of design, they regarded the activity as most important factor. Kindergartens applying active wear compatible as townwear also accounted for 57.1%, which is more than half. Second, the formal wear, in the winter season was found to consist with jacket or knit cardigan, knit vest, shirts, skirts or pants, and necktie. For color, most of them are in dark tone, which need to be brighter. For pattern, they are in plain color, which needs to have various patterns. As to the cloth material, such problems should be improved as warmth retentivity in consideration of seasonal nature, moisture retentivity, breathability, color retentivity when washing, and harmless to human body. Third, active wear is mostly the casual sportswear type. But it has no characteristic unique to kindergarten in design and needs to be altered for differentiated design. Especially, it is simply divided into winter wear and summer wear in kind. Therefore, it is required to have differentiation for seasonal characteristic and diversity in number of item and improvement in terms of cloth material.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.270-282
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to inquire into lounge wear and Jeff Koons and to design lounge wear in which the works, Balloon Dog(1994$\sim$2000) and Hanging Heart(1994$\sim$2006), of Jeff Koons was applied. The concept of design was appealed as sensuousness, activeness, and comfort. The target of design was teens and those in their 20s. Knit or woven fabric in 100% cotton/silk and cotton blended was selected. The design had fitted silhouette and the items were bras, panties, pajama pants, shorts, robes, slippers etc. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 program were used for the design. In the lounge wear in which Balloon Dog applied, main color was red, blue, and green with pale tone and frills and pleats were selected for the details. Elastic blended fabric was used for the comfortable. Variety application of color and patterns were conducted for rhythmical visual. In the lounge wear design in which Hanging Heart applied, main color was also red, blue, and green with pale tone. Halter neck and robes were selected for the sexy looking. Cool and soft feelings were pursued through use of cotton and silk blended fabrics or stripes patterns. The result of this study may give valuable information to merchandisers and designers who develop lounge wear. It may also provide designers who use computer program such as Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop as design tools with useful examples.