• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.24 no.2
• /
• pp.32-43
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this study is to analyze the granny look of the new-tro trend via Alessandro Michele's Gucci collection and to provide a reference standard for future design developments by identifying the representation of the granny look. To analyze the new-tro trend and the granny look, basic concepts were analyzed through aesthetic and art books and the photographic data were collected through Internet sites. A total of 186 fashion images were considered as granny look by five clothing experts. The images were subdivided into silhouettes and items, materials, patterns, and colors to analyze the modeling factors and identify the intrinsic inner meaning based on the theory of Nostalgia. The analysis showed that the silhouette was expressed naturally without exaggeration or shrinkage. The thermosetting materials included fur, velvet, knit and quilted materials, while the colors showed raw and faded shades based on the use of natural colors. The patterns were mostly natural, such as flowers, leaves, and stalks, which were aimed at nature. The inner meaning of the granny look is based on the theory of Nostalgia, primarily because it is an emotional fairy tale and second, it reflected the sessions of nature. Also, it is a reinterpretation of the narrative. In conclusion, the academic and fashion industries need to understand the various emerging trends in accordance with the social and cultural backgrounds to derive a positive benefit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.1
• /
• pp.103-108
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was to analyze the effect of fiber contents of socks fabric on the subjective sensitivity and emotional sensibility of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective sensitivity and sensibility according to fiber contents and color value of socks. We made five plain knit fabrics as specimens, with a combination of chitosan/SUS fiber contents and three value levels of grayish color. The subjects were 15 males and 54 females in the twenties. The data analysis was conducted with Pearson's correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncan multiple range test, and regression analysis. The major finds were as follows: A factor analysis showed that subjective sensitivity was classified into five factors (bulky, surface-rough, elastic, attention, and variety) and emotional sensibility was into four factors (salience, stability, luxury, and activity). There were significant correlation between the subjective sensitivity and emotional sensibility. The subjective sensitivities of 'surface-rough' and 'elastic' were significantly influenced by fiber contents. The sensibilities of 'salience' and 'luxury' were significantly influenced by fiber contents. Where as the 'salience' and 'roughness' were significant influenced by color value level. According to sex, there were significantly difference in 'bulky', 'elastic' and 'salience'. As a result of the regression analysis, preference, consuming desire and satisfaction appears to be closely related with all subjective sensitivity and sensibility.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.2
• /
• pp.217-227
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this research was to investigate the difference in fabric preference of formal wear attire between the Korean and American female consumers. For such purpose, fabrics which were used in the womens formal wear market of Korean(n=25) and U.S.A.(n=25) in the 1999 spring/summer season were collected from different fabric converters of the two countries. The respondents were comprised of 50 Korean and 50 U.S.A. female volunteers in the age group of 20s and 40s. A 5 point Likert Scale was used to evaluate the degree of the \"like\" preference of fabrics. T-test and Spearmans rho statistics were conducted for data analysis. The followings are the results. 1. Korean 20s and American 20s preferred Korean fabrics but Korean 40s and American 40s preferred U.S.A. fabrics. 2. Generally, the 20s preferred greyish or tone down color, whereas the 40s preferred both greyish and colorful fabrics. 3. Koreans preferred melange colored fabrics as well as solid color fabrics. 4. Americans liked knit fabrics as well as woven fabrics for formal wear and 20s liked compact density fabrics compared to the 40s age group.age group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.3
• /
• pp.325-335
• /
• 2011

This study analyzes the current educational curricula in the field of Clothing and Textiles in order to develop appropriate educational methods and courses. We reviewed the curricula offered by 58 Clothing and Textiles Departments at four-year universities in Korea. We analyzed the educational content of each curriculum by dividing all of the courses offered into eight categories. The analysis was based on the information posted on the universities' Internet websites, and the analysis was performed by using descriptive statistics. The results of this study are as follows: First, the educational courses of the Clothing and Textiles Departments are composed of, 36.2% design, 20.4% production, and 14.5% textile categories. In comparison with the results of a similar study conducted in 1999, emphases on the design, distribution, and marketing categories have increased, while the emphases on the production, apparel material, basic knowledge, and consumption science categories have decreased. Second, in the case of the apparel material category, basic knowledge of materials constituted 18.5%, the largest part of the category. The average number of units offered in the area of apparel materials by the 58 Departments was 17 units per year. The curricula were found to vary by regions of the country. The universities located in the Chungcheong region offer more textile material courses, but the universities in the Capital region offer fewer textile material courses than other regions. Departments that are affiliated with universities that emphasize Art and Design have more courses on basic knowledge, dyeing and finishing, and fabric design than other universities.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2009

A lot of research has been made over the recent decade to develop testing packages with antimicrobial properties to improve food safety. In this study, a new method, experimental device and technology for environmental corresponding packages of polypropylene (PP) film has been developed to provide effective temperature buffering during the transport/long-term storage of grains or foodstuffs from the supplier to the market. This quantitatively optimized mixing system enabled to produce PP films with the 700$\sim$1,400d (width;1.5$\sim$3mm, thickness;0.01$\sim$0.5mm). In the whole mixing systems, the finely-granulated inorganic illite and PP virgin chip for master batch (M/B) chip was calculated by digital measurement methods, and then the M/B chip for PP film was adapted through a air jet and PP grinding method. The prepared PP film was characterized with tensile strength and elongation, far infrared radiation (FIR) emissivity, antimicrobial activity and deodorization properties. The results revealed that the two differently grain-sized illite could be show homogeneously dispersed on PP chip surface, and as the increasing of illite content, the FIR emissivity and the anion emission rate of film was increasingly improved. In both of 325 and 1,500 mesh-sized illite contained PP chip, of course the antimicrobial activity was good. But the ultimate deodorization rate for ammonia gas of PP film were found to be approximately the same.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.4 no.4
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative beauty, changes in fashion and aesthetical sense that can be seen in the bias drapings of Madeleine Vionnet and her influences on modern fashion since she used draping as a new fashion means to represent the new feminine images which modernism of the early 20th century and social changes from the two great World War's generated, and to provide proper data to encourage designers' creativity that is wanting in the circle of Korea fashion. Bias draping led women to respect worship their body from the heart with seductive modernism enriching the material's texture to the utmost through geometrical patterns of triangle, quartered plane and quardrants and simple cylindrical cuts and with an attribute adapting itself to the wearer's body. Bias draped wear consisted of light and transparent materials and overall surface decoration revealed women's movements and sought the extension of environmental movements and demonstrated its eroticism. On the other hand, biased daywear gained anonymity through cutting true to body line and psychological protective quality as of cape, and this went well with the independent femininity accepting difference as well as pursuing revolution from the inside. The great inflation and the 2nd World War gave birth to escape from reality like surrealistic artistic tendencies and Hollywood films and increased romanticism. Bias draping once underwent unpopularity except in expensive clothes due to knit wear boom and the utilization of new elastic materials, however, it began to receive lights again from pluralization waves and retro tendencies and to be introduced in many designers' collections. A young genius of England, John Galliano improved functions of Haute Couture through creation of new styles and fantastic shows to promote profits in the fashion markets. Bias draping fitted in human body line provides us comfort and aesthetic qualities through careful choice of material and elegance by delicate cutting.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.26 no.3
• /
• pp.390-408
• /
• 2018

The number of hand knitters has increased dramatically in the past few years. Recently, various hand knitted items have been seen in many fashion collections. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the design features of hand knitted items in the collections from Daniela Gregis. This brand was selected because it featured knitted items in its collections every season. An empirical analysis about form, material, color and knitting technique was done for hand knitted items from Daniela Gregis' collections from 2012 S/S to 2018 S/S. The results can be summarized as follows: In terms of form, garments such as pullovers, cardigans, and shawls used basic components, and accessories such as bags, mufflers, hats, and decorative pieces had various shapes. In the material, there were many items that expressed unique textures by combining various materials such as a mix of fabric and yarn. With regards to color, orange, yellow, and red were mainly used as accent colors, and combinations of two or more colors were prominent in the items. In terms of knitting technique, the methods used in the collections were mostly simple and basic. Among various techniques, plain knitting, garter knitting, and single crochet methods were mainly used. While this study is limited to the characteristics of hand knitted items from a single brand, therefore cannot be generalized for all knit fashion, the study provides basic data that could facilitate the revitalization of the hand knitting industry and expand the application range of hand knitting techniques.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.15 no.5
• /
• pp.791-802
• /
• 2006

The construction of athlete's tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is an interesting subject, which directly influences the performance of the wearer. Therefore, relationships between the reduction rates of the men's pants pattern obtained using measurements of Size Korea 2004 and clothing fitting were explored to improve clothing comfort. Two pattern making methods were developed and the reduction rates were applied to those pants depending on the parts of human body. The four male subjects were university students in the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using seven Likert scales during 4 consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were kept four various postures including waist flexion and sitting etc by requests of the researchers. Likert type scale was used for the evaluation and 7 point indicates that it gave the best fit as tight-fitting pants. As results, differences in the length and girth between two piece pants pattern(style 1) and one piece pants pattern(style 2) were 0.0$\sim$0.3cm. Between two pattern making methods, one piece pants pattern(the style 2) was superior to two piece pants pattern in terms of subjective sensation and fit. Among eight tight-fitting pants, C, D, G, H pants were superior in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip part to the others. ill case of tight-fitting pants, the reduction rate of the pattern in the course direction, the reduction rate of T2/3(66%) was better than that of T/2(50%), but the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction, that of the part of crotch, which was very sensitive part, should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert(1988).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.123-128
• /
• 2006

For the purpose of examining the relationship of physiological and subjective responses to different exercise intensities and varied types of sportswear material, under environmental condition $20{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ $50{\pm}3%$RH, five men who wear four different kinds of sportswear which have same clothing cover area. The subjects exercised for 20 min with a 20 min pre-exercise rest period and another 20 min post-exercise recovery period. Throughout the 60 min. duration, we monitored the local skin temperature, rectal temperature, clothing microclimate and subjective sensation. The mean skin temperature was recorded to range from $33.5{\sim}34.1^{\circ}C$ for the entire duration of the experiment with the highest temperature observed at the 7th min after starting the exercise. During the exercise intensity at THR 20, the lowest recorded temperature was at the 5th min of the recovery time and stabilized at the 10th min. However, in the exercise intensity condition at THR 70, the temperature declined steadily until the end of the experiment. With regard to clothing materials, cotton 100% and Polyester/Cotton blended fabrics knit(35/65) was $0.5{\sim}0.7^{\circ}C$ maintained lower than Polyester 100% and polyester/Cotton blended woven fabrics (65/35). In the case of the rectal temperature at THR 70 in case of PET 100%, Polyester/Cotton blended woven fabrics (35/65) was higher $0.2{\sim}0.5^{\circ}C$ than other sportswear throughout the duration of the experiment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.751-765
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to apply the Trencadis images in Antony Gaudi's work to a design motive and thus provide a new concept for a knitwear design by combining double-knitted fabrics with patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting. This study examines the bibliographic text and precedent research related to Antony Gaudi and his works, and analyzes the historical background and formative and stylistic characteristics of Trencadis as it appeared in Gaudi's architectural works. Also this study also examines the characteristics of knitwear and knitting theory while exploring the formative elements and the combined techniques used in modern knitwear design through fashion magazines, medium images, and online sources. The results are as follows: First, Gaudi's work that applies a Trencadis technique has the characteristic of being creative, organic, and environmentally friendly. And in addition, its colorfulness inspires modern fashion design. Second, computerized knitting has been practiced in various ways and the fabrics knitted by both double-knitting jacquard and computerized knitting machines provide a new direction the creation of knitwear. A computerized knitting machine is especially effective for pictorial expression, and is suitable for showing the natural curve of the human body due to its sophistication. Third, as a result of applying a combined technique to the knitting of various fabrics, a combined or fusion design, which is a recent megatrend, is very effective for the design of knitwear while increasing its aesthetic value. Moreover, utilizing techniques that combine patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting will create higher value in knitwear. Lastly, with a project of applying combined techniques in the creation of knitwear, designers can become much more creative while taking their imagination much further.