• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.171-191
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• 2016

Lady Han, Gongshin-buin(恭愼夫人韓氏: 1410~1483) was Gongnyeo of Ming emperor and sister of Han Hwak(韓確:1400~1456). The aim of this study is to analyze the characteristic of costume presents for Lady Han, and to investigate a part of Joseon women's attire in the 15th century. Most of the presents for Lady Han were native products of Joseon to help alleviate her homsickness, but surviving relics are very rare. The costume-related presents included daily accessories and fabrics such as natural ornaments, embroidered pouch, needle case, wig, wooden comb, portable knife with multi-blades, various colored plain silk [綿紬] and ramie. Also, preceding research analysis of costume relic were combined with study of presents for Lady Han's. The most salient costume of Joseon women in the 15th century was the symmetric collared jacket. In addition, ornamented jeogori, pouch with pine nut stitch, chima, jangot, jangsam, black veil[羅兀] made with ra or jeung, glass beads, paintings of Ming and Joseon can be references. Illustrations show 6 representative type of Joseon women's full attires in the 15th century are as follows. First, is a combination of 'symmetric collared jacket with peacock rank badge, jeoksam, chima, underwear' and 'hoa-a, janga-a, embroidered pouch, needle case, knife with multi-blades: presents for Lady Han'. Second, formal wear focusing on symmetric collared Jacket of cloud pattern. Third, formal wear focusing on multicolor ornamented jeogori. Fourth, town wear with jangot and neoul. Fifth, formal wear with jangsam. Sixth, daily wear focusing on banbi with symmetric squre collar. Accessories and underwear shown in another illustration were same as the first illustration. Results of this study can be used as content for making historically accutate costumes as well as costume education.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.185-195
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• 2002

This study was carried out to investigate the wearing silhouette of jackets according to the mechanical properties, primary hand value and total hand value of the 3 types of wool fabrics. Wool/PET(50/50), wool/PET(80/50) and wool(100%) fabrics were used as test specimens. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand value and total hand value were calculated by equation KN-203-LDY. We made three experimental jackets based on the precious jacket pattern and used Moir Photography to measure the amounts of space between the jacket clothes and body surface from the overlap cross section map. The results were as follows: 1) In mechanical properties, woo/PET(80/20) fabric showed higher bending and shear rigidity. 2) In evaluation of primary hand and total hand, wool 100% fabric showed higher NUMERI and FUKURAMI hand and total hand value. 3) From the reset of Moir Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of fabrics. Except for the hip part, the garment ease of wool/PET(80/20) fabric was estimated more highly.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.53-64
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to help efficient use of marking system and more competitive products manufacture through the actual investigation into manufacturing process of apparel products. For lack of the previous study on marking, fundamental survey was performed on systematic research for pattern marking in ready-made production line Data were collected from 36 companies using Apparel CAD/CAM through questionnaire and interview. The data were analyzed by using Frequency and Crosstabs utilizing SPSS. The results were as follows : 1. Marking situation in clothing companies were examined ; 24 companies(66.7%) use computer marking, and 12 companies(33.3%) have both computer marking and hand marking. Besides only 9 companies out of 36(25.0%) have CAM in cutting process. 2. The efficiency in marking methods was also studied and the expense-saved ways were presented. we have found there is no difference in a way of the textural efficiency but the working methods of hand marking and computer marking. 3. Merits and demerits in marking methods were investigated. In case of marking two men's wear (Jacket and Pants), it takes 38 minutes by hand whereas it takes 15 minutes by computer ; for two women's wear (Jacket and Skirt) 49 minutes by hand, and 16 minutes by computer. 4. Most of the markers have less than 5 years experiences and among them most women are less experienced. They are in the mid-twenties after college graduations.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.71-84
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• 2009

For fit satisfaction evaluation, the subjects were asked to put on the jackets from the seven manufacturers in random order, view how the jackets fit in a full-body mirror and answer questions regarding fitting in 22 specific areas, including the neck, shoulders, waist, hips and arms, as well as eight questions related to maneuverability. The surveys and evaluations were conducted between October 2007 and November 2008, and the compiled data were analyzed using the SPSS 14.0 statistics program. The One-way analysis of variance was performed to comparatively analyze the differences among the products from the seven manufacturers. Post-hoc tests were performed based on Duncan's test for the criteria that displayed significant differences. The results were summarized as follows. Fit evaluations were performed for the size 88 formal jackets from the seven manufacturers. All items, except the center front line, displayed significant differences at p<0.05 or higher among the manufacturers. The age group 20-39 felt that the main problems were in the shoulder, armscye, upper arm, waist, abdomen and hip areas. Modifying the shoulder area, armscye depth and hip areas severely compromises the jacket's balance, and attention to these areas must be given developed pattern design.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.33-44
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to research Miao ethnic costume which have been distinctly expressed differences according tribes and areas, present fashion design reflecting image of Miao ethnic costume. Two steps was taken in order to achive this purpose. The first step was to put in order formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume being based on the Chinese books and domestic research materials. The second step was to study formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume in comparison 2000A/W fashion trend, illustrate and schematize fashion designs. The results of formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume are summarized as follows 1. X or H silhouette through skirt & jacket and pants & jacket. 2. Layered look that been twisted around several items. 3. Fine pleats skirts. 4. Refined and splendid color. Black was used main color, dark blue & red purple were used coordi color, vivid color were used accent color 5. Geometrical pattern, cross stitch embroidery. 6. Various ornaments being used silver. 7. Various hair styles and hairdressers. Using above characteristics, this study presneted fusion fashion design combined images of ethnic and techno with dark blue, mustard, blue purple. The target was Forties, professional woman.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권5호
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• pp.703-714
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to acquire various methods for the fashion image coordination and to examine common features of variation of coordination methods according to the trend. It has attained by investigating Men's fashion image coordination through trend analysis in terms of its coordination features and its variety aspects. For this study, it has classified into twelve typical Men's fashion images in collecting 1,291 pieces of photographs on the subject of jackets and pants from Men's fashion collection$(1995\~2002)$. The study has examined methods and features of fashion image coordination by year according to design elements and the harmony between items. In addition, it has drawn common factors in the image coordination. The summary and conclusion are as follows. A year of 1995, it has presented as the essential code of the variation that morphologic aspects of a design in the fashion image coordination. Various designs have developed through the variation of shapes such as shoulder width, shoulder pad, jacket width and its length and so on. In the initial stage, the width of shoulder and jacket has fitted into large pattern and then adjusted elegantly to make fit the body that indicates a dissolution according to an avant-garde image. At the time that over-measurement of the shape has reduced and high quality and variation of materials has gradually become significant. Those are often used that high-quality glossy materials or other materials which are opposite to the basic code of the original fashion image materials and qualities regardless of images. On the pattern and color, in addition, have represented neat and elegant impression with moderate applications rather than quantitative abundance that have used opposite elements to the basic code f3r the change code like materials. Furthermore, before and after 1999, ' it shows that a concept of the total coordination has arisen that increased coordination methods to strengthen and affluent its images for the whole with wearing accessaries such as hats, gloves, sunglasses, mufflers, bags, belts and so on.

• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.149-162
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• 2008

The Regular rule of Sang-uiwon served as a manual of Royal Attires. According to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission, Royal ceremonial attire was made and presented to the royal family. The materials for the Royal informal dress were presented in accordance with usual tributes. There was no difference in informal dress between the royal family and noble class. But the name of items was different such as Goa du[man's jacket], Go ui[woman's jacket], etc. The royal family continued to wear old days dress as akjurm and noui, which were not worn by common people any more, as a means of differentiating clothes. Bub-bok, which was designed only for key figures of the royal family such as the king, crown prince, queen, and crown princess, was the best status symbol. Because of its highly limited example of wearing, bub-bok was the authority of the wearer itself; with only difference in color, pattern, and material depending on social status. Yong-po is the most frequently worn by the Royal men. Yong-po worn with jong-lip served as yung-bok or gun-bok, and iksun-gwan functioned as sang-bok. Royal Attire for men was clearly divided into Yong-po as sang-bok, bub-bok as myun-bok and gangsa-po, while jeok-ui for women functioned as both sang-bok and bub-bok. However, the use of jeok-ui was defined by differentiate sang-bok from bub-bok like as the pattern of Hyung-bae, number of embroidered round badges, shoes and ornaments.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.52-59
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• 2012

최근 LED는 조명, 광고판, 디스플레이 등 다양한 분야에 널리 활용되고 있다. 이번 연구에서 우리는 공연에서 사용하기 위한 무대 의상에 LED 기술을 융합시키는 방법을 다룬다. 우리는 공연 환경의 요구 조건들을 충족시키기 위해서 무선 네트워크, 임베디드 시스템, 컨트롤 재킷, 디지털 스킨, 패턴저작도구로 구성된 디지털 의상 플랫폼을 제안하며, 이것은 LED 조명 효과를 가진 디지털 의상을 만드는데 활용된다. 임베디드 시스템은 무선 네트워크를 통해 공연 제어 시스템으로부터 제어 신호를 받고 그에 따라 실시간으로 LED 빛의 색 변화를 제어한다. 임베디드 시스템을 장착할 수 있도록 설계된 조끼 형태의 컨트롤 재킷은 임베디드 시스템과 LED를 연결하는 커넥터 역할을 하고, LED가 디자인된 외피 개념의 디지털 스킨은 연출가의 의도에 따라 의상에 디자인된 LED에 의해 그 자체로 발광체가 된다. 패턴저작도구는 타임라인 기반으로 LED 빛의 색이 변화하는 다양한 패턴들을 만드는 것을 도와준다. 디지털 의상은 새로운 형식의 움직이는 조명으로 활용되며 무대 표현 기술의 확장을 가능하게 한다. 우리는 디지털 의상 플랫폼을 적용한 디지털 의상을 제작하여 실제 공연에서 사용함으로써 디지털 의상 플랫폼의 안정적인 사용성과 활용 가능성을 검증하였다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제39권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to analysis of design preference according to age of consumers in order to obtain basic informations which are necessary for the development of designs that can satisfy the needs and desire of Chinese consumers. The style, color, fabric pattern, fabric, image, and shape of clothing were used for design preference variations. The study was implemented by surveying 280 females living in Beijing, China. The results were as follows: 1) There were significant differences in the preference of style of outdoor clothes according to age. Chinese women in the age of twenties and fifties prefer to wear casual clothes. Preference ratio was more than 60% 2) There were significant differences in the preference of color of spring and summer clothes, but there was no difference in the preference of color of autumn and winter clothes. 3) There was a difference in the preference of fabric pattern of outdoor clothes. Generally Chinese women showed 50% of preference for the no patterned outdoor clothes. 4) There were no differences in the preference of fabric materials. Preferred material for spring and summer was cotton fabrics, and that for autumn and winter was woolen fabrics. 5) In the research of the preferred image of outdoor clothes, generally Chinese women showed the most preference for elegance style. Chines women who are in the age of thirties to forties preferred feminine style. However, Chinese women who are in the age of fifties like to choose simple style. 6) There was a significant difference in the preference of length of jacket and skirt, and generally Chinese women preferred to wear medium length of jacket and skirt. There was no difference in the preference of design of collar and shape of pants. However most Chinese women showed preference for tailored collar and straight shaped pants.

• Smart Structures and Systems
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.291-309
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• 2020

To study oceanic and meteorological problems related to climate change, Korea has been operating several ocean research stations (ORSs). In 2011, the Gageocho ORS was attacked by Typhoon Muifa, and its structural members and several observation devices were severely damaged. After this event, the Gageocho ORS was rehabilitated with 5 m height to account for 100-yr extreme wave height, and the vibration measurement system was equipped to monitor the structural vibrational characteristics including natural frequencies and modal damping ratios. In this study, a mass reallocation method is presented for structural model updating of the Gageocho ORS based on the experimentally identified natural frequencies. A preliminary finite element (FE) model was constructed based on design drawings, and several of the candidate baseline FE models were manually built, taking into account the different structural conditions such as corroded thickness. Among these candidate baseline FE models, the most reasonable baseline FE model was selected by comparing the differences between the identified and calculated natural frequencies; the most suitable baseline FE model was updated based on the identified modal properties, and by using the pattern search method, which is one of direct search optimization methods. The mass reallocation method is newly proposed as a means to determine the equivalent mass quantities along the height and in a floor. It was found that the natural frequencies calculated based on the updated FE model was very close to the identified natural frequencies. In conclusion, it is expected that these results, which were obtained by updating a baseline FE model, can be useful for establishing the reference database for jacket-type offshore structures, and assessing the structural integrity of the Gageocho ORS.