• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.300-312
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• 2014

This study seeks to offer practical suggestions for manufacturing jacket lining patterns through research on menswear brands. A researcher conducted interviews with a survey instrument targeting 12 menswear brands. To analyze the data, descriptive statistics were obtained using SPSS 18.0. The main findings were as follows. First, regarding lining production, most menswear brands were found to provide jacket lining patterns to their subcontractors, and pattern makers were found to design lining patterns based on their own know-how. The most important factor in the production of jacket lining patterns is whether linings are cut more than once during the sewing process. For suit jackets, linings are cut more than once, and for casual jackets, linings are cut once. Second, with regard to jacket production for different jacket styles, most menswear brands were found to use patterns that include seam allowance. Partial linings showed differences in terms of the methods used to sew edges and attach linings to the outer shell. Third, extra space in jacket lining patterns varied according to style. Jacket lining patterns for suit jackets and casual jackets showed differences in extra space in the following areas: the parts that cover the chest(suit jacket linings: 5.6cm, casual jacket linings: 2.4cm), the parts that cover the waist(suit jacket linings: 3.8cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), hem(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), and bicep(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.1cm). However, extra space in the sleeve hems was identical for the two styles(suit jacket linings: 0.1cm, casual jacket linings: 0.1cm). Therefore, this research suggests that clothing manufacturers design linings in accordance with the jacket lining production style.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권8호
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• pp.1068-1078
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze the production process of 12 domestic companies that manufacture women's knitwear and the degree of satisfaction of the middle-anged women who purchase knitted Jacket. Three hundred questionnaires were distributed and a total of 276 usable data were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics (frequency and one way- ANOVA test) by using SPSSWIN 10.1. It was found that the price satisfaction of knitted jacket was low because of imported yarn and production methods(i .e., 1inking, sewing, etc.). Therefore, it is necessary to develop that domestic yam and improve production methods. Another finding ot the study demonstrated that the size of knitted jacket was a little tight for the middle-aged women on the circumstance size(i.e., bust, waist, etc.) while majority of the respondents felt that the areas such as sleeve and shoulder seemed a little bit longer than their size. It should be designed in such that the physical characteristics of knitted materials are considered when pattern is made. Clothing companies should make an effort to effort more information about the knitted jacket and develop pattern suitable for the body shape of the middle-aged women.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.184-194
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.

• 한국IT서비스학회지
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.87-105
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• 2012

The purpose of this case study is to demonstrate the effectiveness of the disruptive innovation strategy based on the Resources Process Values(RPV) theory for a successful firm. Disruptive innovations seemed not initially perform well enough to be sold or used successfully in markets. The products and services used disruptive technologies have not been as effective as those used in the established markets. However, they have other attributes such as simplicity, convenience, and low cost, which appeal to a new, small and initially unattractive set in new or low-end applications. The Hyundai Heavy Industries Co.(HHI) performed the Jubail Industrial Harbour Project(JIHP), which built the Open Sea Tanker Terminal(OSTT) in Saudi Arabia, using the disruptive innovation strategy in order to lower the manufacturing cost of the offshore jacket and to complete the project successfully. The HHI developed the design and drawing systems to manufacture the jacket and also developed the HYundai Jacket Analysis System(HYJAS) software to use the structural analysis against stresses from rolling and pitching of the barge while transporting the jacket by sea.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.75-84
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• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

This study investigated body type among women in their 20s and the development of prototypes for tailored jackets by body type in order to design clothes in consideration of an imbalance in body type caused by the popularity of portable devices such as smartphones and Netbooks. This study aims to create a design of jacket patterns by body type through both actual and virtual wear testing among women in their 20s, who are the major consumer of ready-made clothes and are very sensitive to size fit. This study will provide pattern information for the manufacture of jackets with a goal of securing the latest scientific body type information and establish the grounds for a research method in the manufacture of clothes. According to actual and virtual wear tests of four different body types, a significant difference was found in armhole circumference in most types because it was scanned with the arms slightly apart to prevent the armhole area from being missed during the 3D scanning. This has resulted in a slight distortion in measurements. To correct this problem, it is necessary to verify the precision of the body scanner and its program. In categories in which a large significant difference was found, it is necessary to test them against many subjects. In addition, it would be required to perform a further study on the 3D virtual wear system, which could be useful in the clothing industry.

• 한국기계가공학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.50-55
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• 2012

The important problem in high speed spindle is to reduce and minimize the thermal effect by motor and bearing. This paper presents the thermal characteristic analysis for a high speed spindle with and without cooling at the rear part, considering the viscosity and the flow rate of cooling oil. A high speed spindle is composed of angular contact ceramic ball bearings, high speed built-in motor, oil jacket cooling and so on. The thermal analyses of high speed spindle need to minimize the thermal effect and maximize the cooling effect and they are carried out under the various cooling conditions. Heat generations of the bearing and the high speed motor are estimated from the theoretical and experimental data. This result can be applied to the design and manufacture of a high speed motor spindle.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.53-64
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to help efficient use of marking system and more competitive products manufacture through the actual investigation into manufacturing process of apparel products. For lack of the previous study on marking, fundamental survey was performed on systematic research for pattern marking in ready-made production line Data were collected from 36 companies using Apparel CAD/CAM through questionnaire and interview. The data were analyzed by using Frequency and Crosstabs utilizing SPSS. The results were as follows : 1. Marking situation in clothing companies were examined ; 24 companies(66.7%) use computer marking, and 12 companies(33.3%) have both computer marking and hand marking. Besides only 9 companies out of 36(25.0%) have CAM in cutting process. 2. The efficiency in marking methods was also studied and the expense-saved ways were presented. we have found there is no difference in a way of the textural efficiency but the working methods of hand marking and computer marking. 3. Merits and demerits in marking methods were investigated. In case of marking two men's wear (Jacket and Pants), it takes 38 minutes by hand whereas it takes 15 minutes by computer ; for two women's wear (Jacket and Skirt) 49 minutes by hand, and 16 minutes by computer. 4. Most of the markers have less than 5 years experiences and among them most women are less experienced. They are in the mid-twenties after college graduations.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.286-290
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• 2015

The wood veneers were clearly rainbow-colored with natural dyes. As shown through Korean-style jacket with stripes of multi-colors beyond traditional obang colors (red, blue, yellow, black and white colors), eco-friendly coloring methods representing Korean colors familiar from old times could be used nobly by coloring natural wood veneer being raw material of wood products. In terms of industrialization, the study to manifest korean color, substituting chemical stains such as dye and pigment, would be necessary. In order to realize this purpose, the study about economical dyeing materials and characteristics, that is, mordant, dyeing and drying techniques showing environment-friendly coloring and high coloration level ought to be followed. In addition to this, investigating discoloration transition by fading test for interior and exterior uses would have to be carried out.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권
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• pp.21-45
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• 2004

The rapid development of science technology during the 20th century has greatly lowered the hours for labour, thus giving members of society extra time for leisure. With the increasement of leisure activities, sports casual wear has become one of the foremost leading items in the fashion industry, and among such sports casual, down wear has become the F/W season's most popular item. Because it generates high profits, many recognize it as a very important factor in lady's wear. Since the 1990's, down wear was widely applied to various sections of lady's, men's, and children's wear, and it has ceased to be limited to sports casual only. The purpose of this study was to fully understand the characteristics of down, and to develop crossover garments design desired not only in the F/W season but also the S/S season. It has been taken into consideration that many restrictions in sewing technique and material selection in manufacturing down as a fashion product exist when choosing a means of manufacture. That was why this study focused on the history and characteristics of down while analysing the works of domestic and foreign designers to concretely applicate them in fashion products. This study has divided the resulting down wear products according to consumer preference： vest, jacket, coat, one-piece, and skirt to applicate design manufacture of lady's wear in general, while designing and making artistically expressed down wear. There were 48 works developed as a result of this study, of which 41 were ready-to-wear, and the remaining 7 works were creative art wear.