• 제목/요약/키워드: in the 1920s

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남성패션의 변천 및 특성에 관한 연구 -1980년대 부터 2차 세계대전 직후까지- (A Study on the Change and Characteristics of Men's fashion -From 1890's to World War II-)

  • 이숙희
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제19권3호
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    • pp.397-415
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    • 1995
  • The purpose of this study was to identify the change and characteristics of 20th men's fashion. The result of the Study as follows; 1 In the period 1890's-World War I there was a display of opulence and extravagance Therefore men's fashion pursued with elegance and grace. The rise of sports and an erosion of rules of Victorian society were evident influences before 1914. So men's silhouette resembled athletic appearance and less formality was shown in masculine attire. 2. During the period World War I-1920's the new equality of social relations between the sexes had an influence in fashion. Unisex look evolved so boyish shaped became the feminine ideal, men wanted to boyish fitted leaner stylings and natural shoulder suits. In the twenties youth, who seemed to have a social dominance, asserted their own testes in fashion. New style of men's fashion such as oxford bags and Ivy League Look appeared. After World War I "comfort" is the aim of fashion so casualness was reflected in fashion: vests often were discarded and man wore a soft, detachable collars. 3. In the thirties depression marked a shift in mood from gaiety and progressivism of the twenties to the conservative, even reactionary values. The role of men and women returned to more traditional attitudes, Every men's general appearance was bold and manly: his chest was broad and well-built, his shoulders square and muscular. The effects of World War ll were not on style but on textiles and clothing construction: lighter weight fabrics appeared and construction was simplified 4. Men's dress changed only in detail and not in essence. But there was a continued increase in the variety of clothes and color in men's fashion.

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딩링(丁玲)의 삶과 문학에 나타난 여성주의 고찰 (A Study on Feminism in the Life and Literature of Ding Ling)

  • 임태우
    • 한국융합학회논문지
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    • 제10권2호
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    • pp.175-182
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    • 2019
  • 한국과 중국은 다른 어떤 사회보다도 유사한 문화적 이념체계의 지배하에 놓여있던 사회라고 할 수 있다. 유교적 가부장제가 바로 그것으로 한국은 자본주의, 중국은 사회주의와 결합되면서 생겨나는 문제들을 안고 있다 할 것이다. 이렇게 볼 때 사회주의로 전환되기 전까지 중국여성들의 신여성으로서의 경험은 한국사회에 나타나는 여성문제의 본질을 규명하는데 귀중한 비교 문화적 시각을 제공한다고 볼 수 있다. 이에 본 논문은 1920년대 신문학 운동 시기에 등장한 이래 역사의 주요 시기마다 문학작품을 통해 여성에 대한 선진적 담론을 이끌어냈던 중국의 걸출한 작가이자 여성주의의 대변인이었던 딩링(丁玲)에 주목하고자 한다. 특히 초기 대표작인 <소피여사의 일기(莎菲女士的日記)>와 해방구 옌안에서 발표한 <3.8절 유감(三八節有感)>을 중심으로 격동의 중국 현대사를 관통했던 그녀의 삶과 문학의 변화추이를 고찰함으로서 오늘날의 여성주의를 다시 돌아보고자 한다.

Development of Cost-Effective Platform for Tracking and Analysis of Animal Ambulatory Patterns

  • Kwon, Jeonghoon;Park, Hong Ju;Joo, Segyeong;Huh, Soo-Jin
    • 센서학회지
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    • 제23권2호
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    • pp.82-86
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    • 2014
  • This paper reports the development of a platform for tracking and analysis of animal locomotion. The platform is composed of a commercial webcam, a metal stand for the webcam, and a plastic bathtub as a cage. Using it, researchers can track and analyze an animal's movement within the plastic bathtub's dimensions of $100cm{\times}100cm{\times}55cm$ in a cost-effective manner. After recording the locomotion of an animal with $1920{\times}1080$ resolution at a rate of 30 frames per second, finding the position of the animal in each frame and analyzing the ambulation pattern were executed with custom software. To evaluate the performance of the platform, movements of imprinting control region mice and transgenic mice were recorded and analyzed. The analysis successfully compared velocity, moving pattern, and total moving distance for the two mouse groups. In addition, the developed platform can be used not only in simple motion analysis but also in various experimental conditions, such as a water maze, by easy customization of the platform. Such a simple and cost-effective platform yields a powerful tool for animal ambulatory analysis.

기호의 삼분구조에 의한 20세기 여성 패션의 특성 분석 (Charaeteristics of Women′s Fashion in the 20th Century Based on the Threefold Structure of Semiotics)

  • 김은경;김영인
    • 복식
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    • 제54권7호
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    • pp.41-54
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    • 2004
  • This study purposed to apply function form content, the three concepts that have been discussed by many philosophers since ancient times, to fashion design. Specific research goals are : first, to define fashion design based on the three concepts : and second, to examine how each of the three concepts function-oriented, form-oriented and content-oriented design have been expressed in women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. For these purposes. the author considered Morris' semiotics, which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, reviewed previous researches in design area, and applied the findings to fashion design. According to the result of applying the threefold structure of semiotics. which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, the pragmatic dimension of fashion design comprehends all functional rules related to the use of dress such as body motion and protection, health and safety. air flow and durability, and its syntactic dimension comprehend all the formal elements of visual design such as the structure, shape, line, color and material of dress. The semantic dimension of fashion design includes the symbolic meanings of dress expressed by emotion, sentiment and images. The three dimensions exist interdependently with one another. According to the result of considering the characteristics of the three concepts in the scope of women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. function-oriented design is characterized by practicality and simplicity, and has been expressed as the fashion of functionalism in the 1920s, that of minimalism in the 1960s, and the basic style from 1970s to 1980s, 1990s and the present. Form-oriented design has pursued aestheticism, putting stress upon form, and has been expressed with organic shapes imitating patterns found in nature in the 1950s and with optical art fashion in the 1960s. Content-oriented design attaches importance to transmission of delicate meanings related to the mental world of human beings, and is represented with symbolic forms. Such a characteristic has been expressed in fashion in the early 20th century influenced by surrealism and, with various types of design breaking established forms as well as metaphors and humors that characterize design in the late 20th century.

근대관청건물의 실내디자인 표현 특성에 관한 연구 (A Study on Characteristic of the Modern Government Office)

  • 오인욱;이근혜
    • 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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    • 제16권5호
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    • pp.3-12
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    • 2007
  • Modern architecture is very Important part of korean architecture history. Because It's a role in terms of connecting traditional and current architecture and introduction of western architecture. Accordingly, At this meaninglessly going out and leaving of modern architecture, the purpose of this study is systematic researching of the modern Government Office interior. This study to research into the period context at construction of the modern Government Office and tendency of architecture and interior at that time. And understand interior space organization of it. The modern Government Office adopted Neo-Baroque style from tendency of that time. Also, showed composite order which is mixed In the Creek temple, the Renaissance and the classic style representing the power. But, after late 1920 It adopted Modern Style. This characteristic is different from current composit order, which is comprehended by our. In order to understand aesthetic value of current straight interior space, It have to be Interacted the present and past. But It's averted because it was made In the period of Japanese imperialism. Therefore, We should explore history of interior design that is endowed with sociality and historicity between modern and future interior space as well as current.

현대 데님 패션에 나타난 조형적 특징과 미적 특성 연구 - 2001년 이후 여성 컬렉션을 중심으로 - (A Study on the Formative Characteristics and the Aesthetic Characteristics in Denim Fashion - Women's Collections Since 2001 -)

  • 김정미
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제16권1호
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    • pp.27-39
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    • 2014
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.

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『동과 서의 만남』에 나타난 이민자들의 로맨스와 혼종화 (Immigrants' Romance and Hybridity in Younghill Kang's East Goes West)

  • 정은숙
    • 영어영문학
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    • 제55권2호
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    • pp.215-240
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    • 2009
  • This paper focuses on how Younghill Kang internalizes whiteness ideology through interracial romance to build himself as an oriental Yankee and recover his masculinity in his autobiographical novel East Goes West. This paper also focuses on Kang's strategy of racial and cultural hybridity presented in this novel. The theoretical basis of my argument is a mixture of Fanon's psychoanalysis in his Black Skin, White Masks, Bhabha's notion of mimicry in The Location of Culture, and notions related to race and gender of some Asian critics such as Patricia Chu, Jinqi Ling, and Lisa Lowe. In East Goes West, white women appear as "ladder of success" of successful assimilation and serve as cultural mediators and instructors and sometimes adversaries who Korean male immigrants have to win to establish identities in which Americanness, ethnicity, and masculinity are integrated. However, three Korean men, Chungpa Han, To Wan Kim, George Jum, who fall in love with white women fail to win their beloveds in marriage. George Jum fails to sustain a white dancer, Jun' interest. Kim wins the affection of Helen Hancock, a New England lady, but Kim commits suicide when he knows Helen killed herself because her family doesn't approve their relationship. Han's love for Trip remains vague, but Kang implies Han will continue his quest for "the spiritual home" as the name of "Trip." In East Goes West, Kang also attempts to challenge the imagining of a pure, monolithic, and naturalized white dominant U.S. Culture by exploring the cultural and racial hybridity shown by June and the various scenes of Halem in the 1920s. June who works for a Harlem cabaret is a white woman but she wears dark makeup. Kang questions the white face of America's self-understanding and racial constitution of a unified white American culture through June's racial masquerade. Kang shows that like Asian and black Americans, the white American also has an ambivalent racial identity through June's black mimicry and there is no natural and unchanging essence behind one's gender and race identity constitution.

미장센으로서의 영화 <대니쉬 걸> 의상 디자인과 미적 특성 연구 (A Study on Costume Design and Aesthetic Characteristics in Movie as Mise-en-scène)

  • 박혜원
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제24권3호
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    • pp.1-16
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    • 2020
  • The purpose of this study is to find the aesthetic characteristics of costume design as mise-en-scène in movie 'The Danish Girl'. the methods of this study was carried out prior research, literature studies and qualitative research of visual content analysis by DVD. The spatial and temporal scope of the study is Copenhagen, Denmark from 1926 to 1931, and Paris, France. The styles of the times(1925 ~ 1931) and the spatial sensibilities of women's costumes in terms of form and color were examined thorough out the story. As the results, the costume are based on the 1920's Art Deco style like straight silhouette and some of them are oval soft silhouette. The colors are harmonized or in conflict based on Nordic colors such as blue-green, gray and yellow. Rather than expressing the internal conflict between the two main characters, the costume was focused on the role and character. And also exotic tastes like Japanese and Egyptian textiles patterns and decorations. Therefore, it was found that the movie costume played a role as one of the very important mise-en-scène.

Climate change and fluctuations of pelagic fish populations in the Far East region

  • Gong, Yeong;Suh, Young-Sang
    • Journal of Ecology and Environment
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    • 제35권1호
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    • pp.15-25
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    • 2012
  • Time series of ocean climate indices and catch records were used to identify the alternation patterns of pelagic fish populations in relation to climate regime shifts. During 1910-2008, an orderly alternation of dominant pelagic fish groups was observed in the Tsushima Warm Current (TWC; Yellow Sea-East China Sea-East Sea/Japan Sea) and Kuroshio-Oyashio Current (KOC; Northwestern Pacific) regions. After the collapse of herring fishery in the late 1920s, the sardine (A group) dominated in the 1930s, 3 other species (C group; Pacific saury, jack mackerel, and anchovy) dominated in the 1950s-1960s, chub mackerel (B group) dominated in the 1970s, and then sardine (A group) dominated again during cool regime in the 1980s. As sardine biomass decreased in association with the climate regime shift that occurred in the late 1980s, catches of C group immediately increased after the regime shift and remained at high levels during warm regime in the 1990s. Alternations of dominant fish groups occurred 6 times between 1910 and 2008. The dominant period of the 7 species lasted for 10-20 years. The catch of Pacific sardine in the TWC and KOC regions showed a negative correlation with the catch of the other 5 species (Pacific herring, anchovy, jack mackerel, Pacific saury, and common squid), suggesting that the abundance of the 5 species is strongly affected by the abundance of Pacific sardine in relation to the climate regime shifts. The total catch level of the 7 species in the KOC region was generally higher than that in the TWC region before 1991 but was lower after 1992, suggesting that the fish populations in the Pacific side are shifted to the TWC region by zonal oscillation of the oceanic conditions in relation to the climate regime shift in the late 1980s.

도심 복원 이미지 제작을 통한 1930년대 후기 청주읍치 경관 고찰 (A Study on Cheongju-eup Townscape in the Late 1930s by Modeling the Restoration Image)

  • 김태영
    • 한국농촌건축학회논문집
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    • 제21권2호
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    • pp.27-34
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    • 2019
  • This study explores the emergence of a modern form of Cheongju-eup townscape in the late 1930s by re-examining the 1960s restoration model of Seongan-dong and Jungang-dong in Cheongju, one of the historic cities in South Korea. According to the acquired data from the restoration model, it is found that the construction of a new urban area during the late 1930 was resulted from the following events: the development of a railroad station located outside of the north gate of Cheongju-eup since 1921, the completion of Musimcheon embankment outside the south gate in 1932, and the construction of Chungcheongbuk provincial office outside the eastern gate in 1937. In this period of development, which the author named 'Cheongju-eup period', the streets in the old castle, consisting only of two-story financial buildings, had been expanded from the existing area at the Seongan-gil intersection to the outside the east gate of Cheongju-eup. In addition, public government buildings, which were mainly located in both Seongan-gil and Yulgok-ro in the east-west direction, were newly constructed during the late 1930s in Seokgyo-dong, a new area in which a large number of commercial buildings including department stores, clothing stores, shoes shops, and watch stores were also built along the streets. Moreover, the modern form of Cheongju-eup was to be formed by several construction projects in the area of Jungang-ro in the late 1930s. Until the 1920s, the townscape outside the northern gate of Cheongju-eup, were composed of primary, agricultural, and female schools built on a largest site of Gyoseo-ro and Daeseong-ro as well as a transportation warehouse and a railway office near the Cheongju station. Then, entering the 1930s, new school buildings and domestic industrial shops and factories were built around the area of Jungang-ro ranging from the railway outside the northern gate to Bangadari. As a result, the expansion of townscape with newly constructed buildings in the late 1930s marked the emergence of a modern form of Cheongju-eup.