• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.225-242
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• 1997

This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2012

This study aims to define the influences of an individual's talent types and body consciousness factors on high((intense)-level appearance management behavior in 367 adults(female 172 and male 195). The present study is the first to consider both human talent type and the body consciousness on the high level-appearance management behavior correlates to appearance management behaviour. According to the result of the analysis, plastic surgery on body forms or faces are done by few people. However, straightening teeth, ear piercing, removal of spots or imperfections, and eyebrow tattoos are conducted by many consumers without much resistance. It is rather widely accepted, despite the fact that it can cause pain, discomfort, and side-effects. Furthermore, although excessive acts such as muscle training, dieting, weight managing, and oriental treatments can lead to side-effects, the standardized efficient beta value turned out to be high for these treatments. Thus, this study suggests that both the interpersonal talent among 8 talent factors and 2 body consciousness factors contributes to the reinforcement of the self-identity through high level-appearance management behaviors, but except risky plastic surgery. Therefore, this study supports the previous researches that body consciousness composed of self-source, which is desires and efforts to achieve the ideal body, and external-source, which is the internalization of other people's feedbacks.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.17-30
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• 2018

This study discusses the ambivalence and ambiguity in the relationship between the women's body and fashion drawings in respect to post-feminism perspectives. Deconstructivist post-feminists, perceiving the body as a passive subject, asserted that women internalize the male gaze by becoming the object of male desire, then manipulate the body to conform to that ideal. In this perspective, corsets assumed the role of the tool for forcing women's body to be obedient, restraining and suppressing the body. On the other hand, in the essentialist post-feminist perspective, which regards the women's body as an active object, insists that fashion, in its essence, is not necessarily about sex, nor is it devised to attract the male gaze. In such a viewpoint, the women's body functions as a vehicle for empowerment; by wearing corset women gain power and embraces the cultural norms of dominant beauty. As investigated in this study, the corset is both a tool for oppressing the women's body, as well as a vehicle for the voluntary expression of femininity. This ambivalence in the perception of the corset in the post-feminist theory represents the double-sided perspective in fashion as being both a subordinate construction and a powerful tool for self-expression.

• 대한두개안면성형외과학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.95-98
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• 2012

Nowadays, plastic surgical operations are increasingly being performed in Korea. We have gained added interest in this because some professional pictures contain plastic surgery in their venue. In the films, we intend to see the recognition of society for plastic surgeons and which field of plastic surgery. The list of movies for analysis were 'Plastic Beauty (1975)', 'Penthouse Elephant (2005)', '200 Pounds Beauty (2006)', 'Cinderella (2006)', and 'Time (2006)'. The TV dramas were 'She is looking (2005)', 'Lovers (2006-2007)', and 'Before & After Plastic Surgery Clinic (2008)'. Films were analyzed according to the following: the chief complaints and names of the operations, character of plastic surgeons, result of the operation and its possibility in reality, and its effect of plastic surgery on the life of the patients. Most of the film contained facial transplantation or the change of the face or body different from the original shape. Character type of the plastic surgeons was mostly medical realism, rather than ideal humanism. Most of the plastic surgeons have capability as a doctor; however, some of them had extramarital affairs. The surgery was successful in most of the cases, but were the patients happy with the results? This was not the case in the movies. In only one movie, '200 Pounds Beauty', the patient became happy; rest of them were eminently unhappy with the outcome. Why the discrepancy? It is difficult to analyze the minds of the people in the films, but considering that the majority of the characters in the films were rather unsavory, one may deduce that a crooked mind functions differently. Perhaps it is too much to hope for a day that will come when we will see a film that portrays the mental anguish that accompanies each and every procedure the Korean plastic surgeons make.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.763-780
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• 2002

The aim of this research is to analyze Vionnet´s geometric features, which can be regarded as the key formative beauty among the external characteristics of her works. and to thereby establish the theory that her works emitted a time-transcending life force because they were patterns designed based on a geometrical frame of mind. To prove such argument, studies to understand the basic geometrical aspects appearing in her works will be made by taking a look at the general features of geometry, viewing Vionnet´s philosophy for designing, and examining the geometric cutting methods. The period covered in this paper will center mainly on dresses Vionnet made from her very active days in the fashion sector, 1919. till when she retired from the fashion industry, around 1939. What's outstanding about Vionnet´s geometric principle expressed in her works is the unique cutting method that acknowledges the silhouette of the human body as a cubic or three-dimensions concept, through insight of the human body, the mechanics of the materials, and geometry. Vionnet introduced a simple and elegant design by combining geometric figure cuts, such as rectan히es. quadrants, and triangles. Moreover, she created a new sewing structure that plans everything about the materials to the tiniest detail, resulting in producing a softer style With this, Vionnet showed the geometrical correlation can bring about harmony and the beauty of ideal proportion, forming the source of eternal beauty. As discussed so fu, the geometrical characteristics appearing in Vionnet´s works are marked such as spirals, zig-zag lines, asymmetries. panels, gradation, golden proportion, and the mobius-band.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.54-65
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• 2014

This study developed basic pattern for competition figure skating wear for school girls. Figure skating wears are difficult for making basic patterns based on standard size chart, because girls' body size are slimmer and more slender compared to the general girl's and the competition wears such as, swim suit with sleeves are, closely in contact with the player's body. The competition wears for school girl was made with consideration of changing of the body shape, physical exercises, and various specificities according to stretch material. To raise artistic effect while doing beautiful motions, and to assist in facile technique motions, competition wears need to have enough ease on the side line from waist to armpit, from armpit to wrist, and in trunk girth including crotch girth. Also, to stand out in beauty, a costume designing has a proper skirt position, length, flare width, and a tight bodice according to the player's body proportion. Most of the customers are displeased at the high price, unfitness of size, insufficient design, and difficulty in access, since they are not sold in sporting goods store. Therefore, a competition wear's basic pattern was made through scientific and emotional process including concerns on material properties, room for activities, and ideal body proportion. Systemizing the basic patterns of production method will solve high repairing expenses, unsuitable sizing, and improve accessibility for purchase.

• International journal of advanced smart convergence
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.418-425
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• 2023

This study examined the importance of screening for changing bodybuilding and fitness category. The screening criteria for bodybuilding, the background and reason for the creation of new bodybuilding and fitness items, the screening criteria for new items, and the use of drugs were described. The current bodybuilding gives high marks to excessive muscles and excessive diet conditions, and new bodybuilding category have been newly established in line with the recent global trend of pursuing natural beauty over abnormally excessive muscles, and the screening criteria also prioritize the balance of ideal and overall muscles to fit your height and weight. In addition, fitness events such as physique and bikini are gaining popularity with the establishment because they focus on not excessive muscles and natural elements of the body that ordinary people can challenge. Since athletes as well as ordinary people are using drugs to increase muscles and suffer side effects, IFBB(International Federation of BodyBuilding) and KBBF(Korea Body Building Federation) should consider and improve the current bodybuilding screening standards that avoid excessive muscles, and it is believed that bodybuilding and fitness events will develop only when strict punishment and continuous anti-doping education are carried out.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.163-180
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• 1998

In western clothing, woman's body was port-rayed sexually as the distinction of sex was appeared, and the parts of body contain some kind of symbol of sex. Woman's body was diversly accentuated according to the divers ideal beauty concepts pursuits in the different periods. Today, in a Post-industrial Society whose social structure is very divers and complicated, the interpretation of woman's body reveals so various as the complex social structure. The purpose of this study is to comprehend the various interpretations of woman's body in the contemporary clothing. The concrete purposes of this study is as follows. First, this study is to define the concept of natural body and built body by differentiating the parts of body and searching for the sexual symbols accentuated in the western clothing. Second this study aims to review, the histori-cal process of prejudged distinction of sex in the western clothing, and to analyse the con-temporary sociocultural which forced to change this prejudged distinction of sex. Third, on the bases of this analses, this study also aims to present various interpretation on divers aspects of woman's body portrayed in the contemporary clothing. The interpretation of woman's body in the contemporary clothing were as follow. First, it is a body interpreted as a natural and neutral body which is based not so much on prejudged division of sex as on the expression of the body structure. And, it is a decomposed and recomposed body which is based on plastic principles. This body is portrayed by a layer-ing and wrapping which interrogated such traditional symbols of western clothing as collar, sleeve or trousers, skirt, etc. Second, it is a sexually symbolized body. This body is display-ed by exposure or sexual accentuation in the clothing. To conclude, a body interpreted in the contemporary clothing is no more a body accentuated by division of sex, but a body which per-mits indefinite hypotheses and interpretations under synthetic imagination.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2002

This study is to observe the meaning, aesthetic formative nature of the human body which has been not only a main issue and discussion object but also socially, culturally connected with clothing by contemplating it in the respect of the trend of art. Additionally, a work of contemplation about human body introduced to fashion design was analyzed to renew the meaning and value of the formative art inside the human body. The way and scope of this study is to contemplate the concept and meaning of human body, based on the documentary records such as art history and clothing history in the West society as a main theme. The results of the analysis were as follows: In the first place, the formative characteristics shown in the modem arts expressing the human body since 1990 which are cubism, futurism, metaphysical painting, dadaism, surrealism, pop art, happening, feminism, body art, and technology art are distortion, exaggeration and dismantling. Second, the aesthetic formative nature and meaning in the human body appear to be different according to the standard of ideal beauty of human body when we examine the expression of it from the aspect of art-history and the meaning of human body implied in it. Besides, human body is being used as a messenger which delivers the message of modem artist to other people. So the changed meaning of human body has affected the clothing and made it possible to manufacture and form new styles of clothing that have never been before. In conclusion, the human body in the modem era plays an important role as a brand-new formative medium of communication in the human society and contributes to the development which applies the aesthetic formative nature of the human body to fashion design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.357-370
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• 2013

The Republican Period of China (1912 to 1949) was when the archetypes of thought (constituting contemporary China) engaged in heated rivalry and were directly influenced by Korea through frequent exchanges. This study analyzes the characteristic of Chinese women's aesthetics towards the human body with a focus on visual materials (such as articles and illustrations concerning hairstyle, makeup, skincare, fashion, and gymnastics) featured in the Chinese women magazines of Fun$\ddot{u}$zazhi (婦女雜誌) and Linglong (玲瓏). This study analyzes these magazines and compares them with Korean counterparts. The movement of the developed and controlled human body was a common characteristic of this period; however, compared to the Chinese, the Japanese colonial period of Korea resulted in an introspective self-examination through excessively objectified eyes. Dress and adornment as the symbol of a new civilization acted as the most remarkable signifier. The overlapping of a western image with a Japanese image led to more resistance in Korea. The criterion for the value of a women's external appearance (that traditionally dualized womanly virtues) collapsed and dress was accepted as an expression of individuality instead of as a social class. The human body was traditionally recognized as a microcosm of the universe that dominated the natural principle of Yin-Yang and the Five Elements. However, the ideal human body was postulated and the aesthetic consciousness of the body changed into an imaginary view of the human body that proceeded to keep the body fit for and gave birth to the concept of supplementing the deficiency of the beauty of the human body with dress and makeup.