• 제목/요약/키워드: headdress

검색결과 58건 처리시간 0.02초

근대 민간 혼례 큰머리 양식의 궁중 양식 수용과 변용 -괴계를 중심으로- (The Adaptation and Transformation of the Royal Style "Keunmeori", Grand Headdress in Modern Civil Wedding -Focusing on Goegye-)

  • 오선희
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제48권2호
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    • pp.382-396
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    • 2024
  • "Keunmeori", the grand headdress with various decorations attached to thickly braided and raised hair has been used as a bride's formal attire since the Joseon Dynasty, and in the modern period, new styles known as goegye and hyuche appeared as formal attire for civil weddings. Goegye was formed from a round wooden pillar wrapped with hair and decorated richly with ornaments; getting married with goegye meant that the wife was officially married. Hyuche was made by braiding the hair into two long plaits and decorating it with colorful fluttering hairpins and gold leaf hair ribbons. Hyuche was originally formal attire for a princess at her wedding, and it is thought to have been less frequently used in the private sector due to its higher cost than goegye. The style of goegye appears to have been influenced by the susik, the highest formal attire for a queen, and in particular, the decorations on the circular top part of the susik were presumed to have been similarly reproduced in folk weddings. Goegye changed in various aspects according to the social environment and atmosphere of the times, and was also used as formal attire for a prince's wife.

서양(西洋) 고대사회(古代社會)의 발형(髮型)과 두식(頭飾)에 관한 고찰(考察)

  • 김인숙
    • 복식
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    • 제3권
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    • pp.95-107
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    • 1980
  • The hair and headdress, positioned on the top of the body, assume a special role of accomplishing the silhouette of the clothing. This thesis reviewed the change of the hair and headdresses of the ancient Western world and studied the relationship between the silhouettes of the dresses and the shapes of the hairstyles. It was concluded that the hairstyles of each region had been developed in accordance, with their dress silhouettes, either repeating the silhouettes in a smaller scale, or reflecting their aesthetic attitudes toward clothing in the hairstyles. Religious symbolism was displayed strongly. In the headdresses of the cultures where the religious influence was great.

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국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》 속 등장인물의 복식 고찰 (Analysis of Clothing in a Painting Album of a 60th Wedding Anniversary Feast in the Collection of the National Museum of Korea)

  • 이은주
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제56권3호
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    • pp.76-98
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    • 2023
  • 국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》(덕수6375)에 묘사된 남녀 등장인물의 복식을 분석하고 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 추정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 주인공 노신랑은 <전안례도>와 <교배례도>에서는 평소 관원으로 착용하던 흑단령을 착용하였다. 그 외 <헌수례도>와 <접빈도>, <중뢰연도>에서는 패영 없는 자립에 옥색 포, 홍색 세조대를 둘렀다. 기럭아범은 자립에 귀 옆에 묶은 패영을 달고 흉배를 부착한 무문 흑단령을 착용하였다. 성인 남자 자손과 하객들은 도포 등 당시의 대표적인 포 종류를 착용하였는데 특히 무관으로 추정되는 인물들은 철릭, 직령을 착용하고 붉은 색 띠와 청색 계통의 띠를 신분에 맞추어 착용하였다. 징씨(徵氏) 등 안내자는 중치막과 홍단령을 착용하였으며 어린 동자들과 시동(侍童)은 중치막을 착용하였다. 술을 따르고 음식을 나르는 총각들은 땋은 머리에 소창의(小氅衣)를 입고 성인들은 전립(氈笠)에 소창의를 착용하였다. 군영 소속의 세악수들은 소색 소창의에 흑색 전복, 그리고 허리에 남색 포대 등 군복을 착용하였다. 둘째, 노신부는 <교배례도>에서는 거두미와 초록원삼 차림을 하였고 <헌수연도>에서는 남치마·옥색저고리 차림이 확인되었다. 여자 자손들은 어여머리에 비녀와 반자, 진주댕기 등의 칠보장식을 하였고 다양한 색상의 저고리에 남색과 홍색, 옥색 등의 치마를 입었다. 남치마에 초록 장옷을 입은 부인도 확인되었다. 홍치마에 초록색 회장저고리를 입은 <교배례도>의 동녀(童女) 4명은 낭자머리에 비녀 꽂고 도다익 댕기를 길게 드리웠으며 칠보족두리를 썼다. 비자(婢子)들은 어여머리에 가리마를 썼으며 양반 부인들과 유사한 치마·저고리를 착용하였으나 색상이 연했고 치마의 길이가 짧았으며 치마의 부풀림 정도가 약하였다. 기녀는 양반 부인과 비슷한 모습이었으나 색상이 덜 화려하였으며 어여머리에는 칠보장식이 없었다. 셋째, 주인공의 자립 착용, 철릭과 직령을 입은 하객들, 군영 소속 세악수 참여 등에 근거하여 회혼례의 주인공이 병조나 군영과 관련된 인물이었을 가능성을 제시하였으며 군영 악대의 전복의 소매 길이와 잠화 사용, 어여머리의 형태와 댕기, 저고리의 길이와 치마의 부풀린 형태 등에 근거하여 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 1760년대~1780년대로 추정하였다.

18세기 여성 염습의 의 일례에 관한 고찰 -안동권씨(1664~1722) 출토복식을 중심으로- (A Study on the Noble Lady's Costumes of 18 Centuries -excavated from Andong Gwon's(1664~1722) grave-)

  • 송미경
    • 복식
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    • 제52권6호
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    • pp.115-126
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    • 2002
  • This study is regarding on the shroud of Jeonjoo Lee (Inpyoung clan's lady) excavated from the Andong Gwon's grave. who had passed away at 1722. Through this research, we understood the way of fetal ceremony by 18 centuries' royal family, and the costume style in those days. The style and size of shrouds were likely similar with ordinary dress. For the upper dress, Lady Andong Gwon wore a piece of undershirt (sosam), 3 layed jacket(Joggoli), an upper jacket (dangui) with patched badge as well as a gold brocade formal dress(wonsam). And for the lower dress, 2 layed underpants(dansokot) and 2 layed long skirts were worn. Especially, prototype of the waist band for shroud(gowdo) and a kind of headgear(gokdoli) was found in this study along with the headdress for woman's shroud(yomo) and the shoes for woman's shroud(chahwea). In this study, understanding the costume of upper class at 18 centuries during Chosun Dynasty.

키프로스(CYPRUS) 민속복식 연구 (A Study on the Cyprus Costume)

  • 송미경
    • 복식
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    • 제40권
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    • pp.67-80
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    • 1998
  • Being located in the east of the Mediterranean Sea, Cyprus used to play a bridge role of cultural exchanges between the East and the West during period of being occupied. As a consequence the fact that the style of costume might be changed at certain levels during the time is broadly accepted. Basic structure of Cypriot men's clothes during the late of the 19th century to the middle of 20th century is composed of\circled1 baggy trousers(vraka) \circled2 shirt(chemise) \circled3 jacket(ziboune/zibouna) \circled4 waistcoat(yilekko) \circled5 headdress(fez, kourouklin) \circled6 accessories. General composition of women's wear is \circled1 pantaloons(vrandzin) \circled2 shift(poukamiso) \circled3 outer garment(sayia, foustani, Amalia, costume) \circled4 waist kerchief(mandili tis koxas)\circled5 boots(podines)/pumps(goves) \circled6 scarves and accessories. As reviewed above, although men's clothes are still worn on a day to day basis, women's wear continues to exist only for festivals or as a tourist attraction. It was understood that this was an accepted consequence of 20th century modernization and reformation.

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스칸디나비아의 민속의상(民俗衣裳)에 관한 연구(硏究) (A Study on the Folk Costume of the Scandinavia)

  • 원미향;유태순
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제2권4호
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    • pp.13-20
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    • 1998
  • Scandinavia consists of Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Lapland, all linked by historical and geographical ties. In this respect, the objective of this research was to clarify the folk costume of the Scandinavia. Scandinavia many skilled handicrafts are practised, such as leatherwork, silverwork and embroidery. The most popular colours are yellow, blues, reds, greens and white. For women the costume consist of a blouse with a bodice, skirt and apron, over which is worn a jacket or shawl, accompanied by a headdress. Their accessories may be jewellery, belts, kerchiefs and separate pockets. For the men, the costume is a shirt, trousers or breeches, worn with a waistcoat and jacket, neck scarf, and topped with a hat or cap. And the Lapps, both men and women, wear woollen shirts beneath their blue-skirted tunics, and blue trousers. It is one of the most ancient of the costumes worn in western Europe, due to its total suitability to their way of life.

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관중숭불도에 나타난 16세기 복식연구 (A Study of Costumes in the Palace Painting Depicting the Worship of Buddha during the Reign of King Myungjong)

  • 홍나영;김소현
    • 복식
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    • 제38권
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    • pp.305-321
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    • 1998
  • The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

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고려~조선시대 귀이개 형태와 장식기법 (A study on the shape and decorative techniques of earpick during the Goryeo-Joseon Period)

  • 김지현
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제55권2호
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    • pp.6-21
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    • 2022
  • 본고는 귀이개라는 특정 공예품이 시대의 흐름에 따라 변화하는 양상을 통해 당대의 물질문화에 주목하고자 하였다. 2장에서 귀이개에 관한 용어 정리를 하고, 조선후기 단편적인 문헌을 통해 귀이개의 사용 문화를 살펴보았다. 귀이개는 첫 번째로 개인의 수신을 위한 위생도구였고, 두 번째로 남성들의 선추에 다는 구성품으로 상징적인 역할을 하였다. 3장에서는 시대별로 귀이개의 형태를 분류하고, 각 형태별 특징적인 장식기법을 살펴보았다. 고려시대 귀이개는 사용목적이 위생도구였으며, 형태에 따라 단독형, 복합형으로 구분된다. 단독형에는 각봉형, 손잡이형, 판형이 있으며, 복합형에는 족집게일체형, 리벳분리형이 있다. 손잡이형 귀이개에서 고려시대의 장식기법을 살펴볼 수 있었다. 선각, 금도금, 바탕에 누정기법으로 찍은 첩호(疊弧)문, 납입사로 화려하게 장식되었다. 조선시대 귀이개는 사용목적에 따라 위생도구와 장신구로 크게 분류된다. 위생도구는 단독형, 복합형으로 나뉘고, 장신구로 사용되는 귀이개 종류로는 뒤꽂이, 노리개, 선추 등이 있다. 귀이개 장신구는 성별에 따라 여성은 뒤꽂이, 노리개로, 남성은 선추로 사용되었다. 조선시대 귀이개의 장식기법은 주로 귀이개 뒤꽂이에서 볼 수 있었다. 칠보기법으로 다양한 색을 내거나 보석감장으로 장식하였다. 그동안 공예품 중 일상도구에 관한 연구가 미진하였다. 일상도구를 통해 시대의 흐름을 읽고 물질문화에 접근하려는 시도가 활발하게 이루어지길 바란다.

이집트 무용 의상에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Dance Costume of Egypt)

  • 임상임;김경희
    • 한국생활과학회지
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    • 제8권1호
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    • pp.135-150
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study is on the dance costume of ancient Egypt. First, after the present study looked onto a specialty of Egyptian dance, and then the present study classified Egyptian dress into type and form, quality of material and color tone, hair and headdress and other ornaments. Fundamentally, this study was intended to understand the traditional culture and to grasp the peculiarity of Egyptian dancing dress. This study was progressed as a theoretical research by using documents, photographs, literatures of museum, etc. The results of the study could be summarized as follows. Egyptian dancing featured the earliest form of stage dance in the world and improved religion dancing and sideshow dancing getting out of the form of primitive dance, and also there were professional dancers who developed highly skillful dancing technique. They played a role in disseminating it to many countries of the Mediterranean sea. Dancers of Egypt wore a variety of cloths like the general people. Accordingly, there were no big differences in qualify of material, color tone and other ornaments as well. Yet in accordance with improvement of dance, there was a show-up of clothing of professional dancers and changing of detail parts. So dancing dress was formed while distinguished from general clothing. Therefore, dancing dress of Egypt represents racial characteristics, activity, originality and pursues not authority, but respect of physical beauty or natural beauty.

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아즈텍(Aztec) 복식문화에 관한 연구 (-A Study on the Cultural Aspects of Aztec Dress-)

  • 이정란
    • 대한가정학회지
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    • 제29권2호
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    • pp.1-15
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    • 1991
  • The purpose of this study was to understand the diversity and speciality of Aztec dress which has not been well known, and to overcome ethnocentrism in clothing perceptions. From 15 century to early 16 century, the Aztec empire based on the unique view of the world, most flourished in Mesoamerica. Ritualistic and official side of Aztec life was reflected well on dress. Most Aztec garments consisted of unsewn pieces of cloth, draped on the body as loincloth, mantle and wraparound skirt. Slightly more complicated garments such as women's blouses(huipils) and men's simple jackets were created by sewing together two or more pieces of material. In the sharply stratified world of Aztec, strict sumptuary laws controlled dress. The garments of lower classes were made of maguey or yucca fiber, and only the upper classes were allowed to wear cotton clothing. In addition to material, color, elaborateness and even manner of tieing the mantle were carefully controlled by government edict. As the Aztec empire expanded and became wealthier, the sumptuary laws could not actually dictate what people wore everyday but rather provided a set of rules governing clothing for ceremonial occasions. Aztec's warrior costumes, consisted of headdress, towering back devices, feather garments, were sufficient to suggest the theatrical grandeur of what must have been one of the most magnificiently attired armies ever assembled.

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