• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.161-176
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• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.134-151
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• 2021

The aim of this research is to develop a clothing and textiles studio course for preservice home economics teachers applying principles of Project-Based Learning (PBL) and maker education to equip future teachers with the ability to nurture creativity among adolescents. The studio course was developed in the following stages: analysis, design, development, implementation, and evaluation. We concluded that the resulting course met the following objectives extracted from the 2015 revised curriculum of home economics subjects: to promote creative and environmentally-friendly fashion design and styling abilities, gain the ability to use makerspace tools, understand flat pattern making and sewing processes, and develop creative thinking, aesthetic sense, and communication skills. Furthermore, the educational effects of PBL and maker education were confirmed through student comments on the course. Students mentioned the practicality of the material in their actual lives along with their enhanced integration of the subject material, self-directedness, aesthetic sense, ability to learn through trial and error, collaboration and communication, and sharing. Based on results from the implementation and evaluation stages, a clothing and textiles studio course should include the following modules: introduction of terms and tools, submission and sharing of clothing reformation and upcycling techniques, introduction to hand sewing, pouch making, heat-transfer printing, 3D printing, mask making, hat making, vest making, and the final team project on fashion styling. It is important for instructors to provide detailed guidelines on selecting personas for styling, looking for available materials, and selecting materials online.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.27-44
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to attempt to diversify artistic expression through combinations of the twelve zodiac animals and origami techniques and to propose new directions for fashion design by applying these to fashion accessory bag designs. For the research method, this study researched the representative forms and characteristics of twelve zodiac animals based on the cultural background. Also, diverse cases of origami techniques were sought to apply them to the development of bags. The results are as follows. First, expressed forms of the Chinese zodiac were newly expanded by realizing the form of Chinese zodiac animals through various origami techniques. Origami work displays abstract visual effects rather than intuitive feelings or expressions of flat designs. With this, detailed realizations could be made through the characteristics and cultural implications of animals. Second, the work created in this study utilized zero-waste patterns that use origami techniques on one whole piece. During pattern production, folded parts were marked without waste and the outer fabric and lining were produced. Patterns were all symmetrical lines so most forms were expressed with squares and equilateral triangles. Third, through actual work produced using fabric instead of paper, effects that are brought about through folding are determined in diverse ways according to fabric textures or material types and thicknesses. When paper is folded, shapes are created as folded, but fabric requires the use of supportive material to create the effects of origami. Polyester and blended fabric were easy to use with high levels of function and practicality. Through such diverse production attempts, fixing methods, hand sewing, sewing machines, double-sided tape, and leather adhesive were used.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.316-320
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• 2004

Waterproof fabrics are seamed and sealed by waterproof sealing tape to prevent water from penetrating through the stitch holes. As this process may change the mechanical properties of breathable waterproof fabric related to its deformation with human body, the changes in mechanical properties were investigated. In both of parallel and perpendicular directions, tensile characteristics were remarkably changed with seaming and sealing processes. The increase of LT and WT means that the clothing sealed by waterproofing tape may produce somewhat discomfort feeling. On the other hand, the bridge of the sewing thread seemed to be reinforced by waterproofing tape. Shear characteristics such as G, 2HG, and 2HG5 gradually increased with seaming and sealing processes in parallel direction. However, they decreased with sealing process in perpendicular direction because the seam line would work as an axis located at the center of the testing range.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.18 no.3 s.41
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• pp.97-117
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the teachers' recognition on the optimization of the educational contents of Clothing & Textiles in subjects of :he Practical Arts or the Technology & Home Economics in the course of elementary, middle and high schools. The statistical data for this research were collected from 203 questionnaires of teachers who work on elementary, middle and high schools. Mean. standard deviation, percentage were calculated using SPSS/WIN 12.0 program. Also. these materials were verified by t-test, One-way ANOVA and post verification Duncan. The results were as follows; First, The equipment ratio of practice laboratory were about 24% and very poor in elementary schools but those of middle and high school were 97% and 78% each and higher than elementary schools. Second, More than 50% of teachers recognized the amount of learning 'proper'. The elementary school teachers recognized the mount of learning in 'operating sewing machines' too heavy especially, the same as middle school teachers in 'making shorts': the same as high school teachers in 'making tablecloth and curtain' and 'making pillow cover or bag'. Third, All of the elementary, middle and high school teachers recognized the levels of total contents of clothing and textiles 'common'. The 80% of elementary school teachers recognized 'operating sewing machines' and 'making cushions' difficult especially. The same as middle school teachers in 'hand knitting handbag by crochet hoop needle', 'the various kinds of cloth' and 'making short pants'. The same as high school teachers in 'making tablecloth or curtain'. Fourth, Elementary school teachers recognized 'practicing basic hand needlework' and 'making pouch using hand needlework' important in the degree of educational contents importance. Middle school teachers recognized 'making short pants unimportant. High school teachers considered the contents focusing on practice such as 'making tablecloth and curtain' and 'making pillow cover or bags' unimportant. My suggestions were as follows; Both laboratories and facilities for practice should be established for making clothing and textiles lessons effective in Practical Arts in elementary schools. The 'operating sewing machines' which were considered difficult should be dealt in upper grade, re-conditioning to easier or omitted. The practical contents should be changed to student-activity-oriented and should be recomposed in order to familiar with students' living. It was needed to various and sufficient supports for increasing the teachers' practical abilities.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.127-140
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• 1998

A study on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from excavated tomb of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461-1528) is reported in this paper. This study is aimed at establishing database for a traditional Korean costume construction and emphasizing the necessity for development of methodology in writing report from excavated costume including measuring, construction methods and materials. This paper includes examples of measured length for each part of 'Dan-Ryung', reconstructured drawings, pictures, and construction methods. The followings on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century are found in this study: 1) Dan-Ryung robes were made of less expensive hemp, cotton, silk & cotton, and ramie & silk. 2) As a whole, Dan-Ryung was lengthy and spacious and it had straighter and narrower sleeves when compared to the ones from the late Chosun. 3) There existed Moo which was large rectangular guest with double pleats at Dan-Ryung's side seam. Its round collar was constructed with a 3 cm width bias. Ball buttons on the outer collar and loops on the right shoulder are attached. 4) There existed a pair of indirectly attached slim and short strings. Inside string is directly attached. 5) Inside of the shoulder, a U-shaped shoulder pad made of the same cloth as the inner cloth was attached. hand sewing methods used include delicate flat-felled seam stitch, back-stitch and sew-up stitch.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.468-486
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• 2017

In this study, three kinds of wearable fashion prototypes were developed using 3D printers with the goal of developing a practical production method for daily clothes. Prototypes were modeled using Rhinoceros software and developed using FDM 3D printers and TPU filaments. The results of this study are as follows. First, it confirmed the possibility of FDM-type entry-level 3D printers as a tool to develop wearable fashion products. Second, TPU filaments that are soft and ductile are highly likely to be used as a clothing material. Third, patterns designed through the 3D modeling process can be sampled directly to a 3D printer and easily corrected and supplemented. Fourth, it was confirmed that TPU prints of about 1.00mm thickness can be sewn with fabric using sewing machines through the development of 'Prototype 1' and 'Prototype 2'; in addition, hand stitching is also possible. Fifth, as in the case of 'Prototype 3', it is possible to fabricate a garment fit enough to the body if the clothing configuration is designed to connect the basic module using TPU filaments. In the future, the development of wearable fashion prototypes using various materials and 3D printing technology will help diversify everyday clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.108-125
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the technical pattern and product characteristics of outdoor sportswear marketed in Northern Europe and North America. Based on the results of this study, we wanted to provide practical data on the characteristics of products with high functionality and fashionability for developing outdoor sportswear. Therefore, in this study, technical pattern, textiles, details, sewing, compatibility with wearable devices, and certification of 33 marketed outdoor sportswear were analyzed. After analyzing various technical patterns, the bent arm pattern using two-piece panel and a raised arm pattern connecting the side seam with the inner seam of the sleeve appeared on the top. Additionally, the patterns of bent legs with darts in the knee, cutting the posterior, and inserting the gusset in the crotch were mainly seen in the bottoms. By analyzing product characteristics, ergonomic pattern design for easy activity and functional materials was used for climate adaptation in extreme outdoor wear. On the other hand, for outdoor wear meant for trekking or hiking, details, such as portability and easy storage, were considered. Eco-friendly materials were used while ensuring light weight and comfort. Furthermore, for convenience of life, safety, and health, wearable devices were integrated into the outdoor sportswear. Eco-friendly green certification of outdoor products was obtained for the labor environment and production process, and relevant information was provided to consumers.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.30
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• pp.1-22
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• 2023

This study aims to document the conservation treatment of the fine-hemp official headgear housed by the National Museum of Korea, and to reconsider its existing name following the restoration of the original form of the damaged cultural heritage asset. The headgear consists of a single inner frame with a vertical line at the front, a single outer frame surrounding the inner frame, and a double-layered headband that spans the circumference of the wearer's head and joins the inner and the outer frames. This study applied a conservation treatment to the men's undyed hemp headgear of the Joseon Dynasty in order to remove contaminants and foreign substances on the surface and repair the partially deteriorated and damaged fabric, thereby restoring and stabilizing the original shape and preparing it for exhibitions. The hemp headgear was sewed both by hand and with a sewing machine. Although its overall composition and style are similar to the same type of official headgear from the Joseon Dynasty, the use of a sewing machine supports the assumption that it was produced in the early 1900s. This study identified similarities between the overall composition and shape of the fully-preserved hemp official headgear and those of the jangbogwan, a type of men's official headgear worn by Confucian scholars as part of their everyday attire, and compared it with the shape of jangbogwan seen in documentary records, illustrations, prior research, and portraits from the Joseon Dynasty, as well as with the characteristics of extant jangbowan artifacts, eventually concluding that it is appropriate to classify and name the headgear as a jangbogwan.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.18 no.3 s.41
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• pp.81-95
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to evaluate appropriateness of clothing & textiles as educational contents in practical arts or technology home economics in the 7th curriculum. The factors of appropriateness were the amounts of learning, the degrees of understanding, interest and requirement on the educational content recognized by elementary, middle and high school students. The data collected from evaluation sheets were analyzed by frequency analysis, t-test, crossing analysis using SPSSWIN 12.0 program. Results were as follows; First. more than 50% of elementary, middle and high school students were recognized the amounts of tearing of clothing & textiles proper. But boy students of middle school recognized 'making clothes' in practice course too heavy. Second. It were from easy to difficult that the degrees of understanding on the educational contents of clothing & textiles recognized by elementary school students. Elementary school students understood both 'making cushion' and 'sewing machine theory and practice' difficult. Middle school students understood 'basic sewing for repairing clothes' and 'making clothes' difficult whereas high school students thought 'making pillow' and 'making bag' difficult. All students understood practice courses hard. Third, the degrees of interest showed from 'interest' level to 'not interest' level in case of elementary school students whereas 'interest' level in middle school students and 'common' in high school students. Fourth, the requirements of elementary, middle and high school students were in 'necessary' level to 'common' level. Editional contents such as 'learning sewing machine', 'making cushions'. 'making clothes', and 'making pillow-cover and bag' were low in the degrees of requirement. The correlationship between the amount of learning and the each level of understand, interest and requirement of students was indirect. On the other hand, Among the level of understand, interest and requirement were direct in case of high school students.