• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.1-23
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• 1998

The origin and structural development of Do-po have been studied with a consideration of the back piece of Do-po in this paper. This study found that Do-po was in this paper. This study found that Do-po was originally imported from China. This paper reports that an earlier record on Do-po is found in an epitaph(1564) than the record found in S njoSilnok(1607) which is conventionally known as the earliest record on Do-po. The structure of Do-po has been widely known as an“attachment of J n-sam”on slitted back piece of the outwear. However, this study shows that Do-po has been formed by inserting the gusset of the front piece into the back piece of the outwear Jik-nyung. This change can be considered as the economical and practical needs to save the cloth or by the aethetical need of simpler clothing. This study also classifies the shape of gussets largely into nine classes according to the temporal development in the shape of gussets.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권5호
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• pp.788-800
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop a caregiver's uniform that is appropriate for nursing and to improve movement adaptability as well as having a pleasing appearance. Based on the results of preliminary study, I investigated the inconvenience and problems with the existing uniforms and made a sample uniform taking into consideration the design, the material, and the pattern. We carried out a sensory assessment and quantitative assessment in order to compare the sample uniform with existing uniforms. Following are the results of this research. The top is a short-sleeved blouse with a round neckline having no collar and with armpit gussets. The armpit gussets are semicircles and the inverted pleats in the back are an improvement designed for activity. The pants are long reaching to the ankles with elastic in the waist so that the waist measurement may be adjusted. The length of the pants can be adjusted with strings and the pants have a funnel-shaped pocket for adjustment of length. We used a mix of polyurethane and polyester for the outer cloth of the uniform in order to improve activity function and used $Coolever^{TM}$, the sanitary textile that absorbs moisture well and dries in a short time, for gussets in the armpits, which is the heavy sweat area. The appearance assessment and movement adaptability assessment were performed with 5 subjects and 9 experts. For the results of the assessment, the sample uniform was appraised to be better than the existing uniforms in every item of an appearance comparison assessment except for the neckline assessment by the experts. As for the assessment of movement appropriateness and wearing assessment, the same subjects were used for analysis. As the results of the assessment, the sample uniform was rated higher than the existing uniforms in movement adaptability and pleasing appearance.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.548-559
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• 2001

This study is to understand Chang-ui construction of the middle Chosun Dynasty through the reconstruction of the blue Chang-ui which was excavated from General Parks tomb. The followings are the results of this study. There are 4 styles in excavated Chang-ui of middle Chosun Dynasty: Two styles seem to belong to the early 17th Century and the other, the late 17th century. The former is classified into 2 styles by the gender of the wearer, the latter is also classified into 2 styles by etiquette of clothing. We can assume that Chang-ui excavated from General Parks tomb was the womans clothing in early 17th century. This Chang-ui(II) differs from other Chang-ui(I) at two points. One is the construction of the trapezoid and triangle gussets on the side seam of clothing. The other is the construction of the narrow width of clothing(23cm). We have found that these two gussets could improve the active aspect of clothing and save materials. It is identified that the green tone was faded from the blue color of Chang-ui according to the calculation of the L*a*b.

• 복식
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• 제58권7호
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• pp.31-42
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• 2008

The fashion of the 19C had been through many diverse styles, i.e. Empire style, Romantic style, Crinoline style and the Bustle style. These styles had emphasized a certain figures, such as exaggerated hourglass silhouette of crinoline style or S silhouette of bustle style. Following the trends, corsets became more than underwears. Actually they supported the fashion of the 19C. Apparently, the corsets had been evolved in many aspects. Patterns, materials and trimmings were developed and refined to make torso figures desirable. The initial purpose of the research is to find out how they developed corset patterns to make such a diverse figures, so that the techniques can be adopted in contemporary pattern design. The 16 corsets and their patterns were quoted from books related the subject. The patterns were redrawn of same scale for the comparative study concerning cutting lines and measurements. Coming to the late, more curved lines and more segmented cutting were used to make body more of glamour and natural. Gussets were another key technique to make them work. Various sized and shaped gussets were used to follow the trends of ever changing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.147-164
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to reproduce the ordinary attire of Yi Seung-hyu, a civil official and writer of the late Goryeo, which will be used to make a his portrait. The reproduced costume consists of a single-layered pyoui (表衣) and jungdan (中單), lined jeogori and baji, and geon (巾), created with reference to historical documents, materials, and portraits. The pyoui was made with samcheokbe, with an H-shaped neck-shoulder band, an oblique single collar, and rectangular gussets. Two skirts were attached on the inside at the back, similarly to dopo. The jungdan also has an oblique single collar, but has an I-shaped neck-shoulder band and triangular gussets. A flat felled seam stitch, whip stitch, and French seam stitch were used in the hemlines and seams of the pyoui and jungdan. The jeogori and baji were made with toju (土紬), and small ties were attached to stabilize them. The geon is a long, oblique hat, which has folded side lines, and was made with flexible black hangra and using a French seam stitch and backstitch. The results include the elements of "restoration, historical research, and portrait costume", and will be maintained as the cultural heritage of Samcheok City.

• 대한용접접합학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한용접접합학회 2005년도 추계학술발표대회 개요집
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• pp.88-90
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• 2005

• 복식
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• 제53권4호
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• pp.71-85
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• 2003

The costume of the 17th Century based on the excavated costume from the graves of Tong-Rae Jwg Clan are studied in this paper. The remaining were used for filling up the coffin consists of 1 piece of Dopo(도포) from the grave of Jung, Kwang-Kyung, 7 pieces of Joongchimak(중적막), 1 piece of Sochng-eui(소창의), and 1 piece of pants from the grave of Jae-Hoo Jung, grand-son of Kwang-Kyung Jung. From these remainings, this study newly reveals or confirms : 1) Standards of transition Procedure of mid-l7th century's Dopo with gussets, 2) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Joongchimak with wide sleeves and side slits, 3) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Sochang-eui with narrow sleeves and side slits, 4) Typical style of pants in the 17th century, 5) The constructive methods for quilted fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• 제45권5호
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• pp.535-543
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• 2017

목구조물 기둥-보 접합물로는 슬릿 가공된 부재에 강판을 삽입한 형상이 통용되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 접합부가 접착된 강절형 문형라멘프레임 및 강판 대용인 목질접합물을 제작하여 절반은 기둥부재에 일체화하고 나머지 절반은 보부재와 핀으로 접합한 반강절형 문형라멘프레임을 제작하였다. 목질 문형라멘프레임들은 강판삽입형 접합부 문형라멘프레임과 수평내력성능을 비교 분석하였다. 수평내력성능은 완전탄소성모델 분석과 구간별 강성변화율 및 단기허용전단내력으로 평가하였다. 실험결과, 강절형 문형라멘프레임의 최대내력이 강판삽입형 접합부 문형라멘프레임 보다 낮게 측정되어 항복 내력은 0.58, 종국내력은 0.48로 산출되었으나, 초기강성과 소성률은 각각 1.35, 1.1 향상된 값이 측정되었다. 반강절형 문형라멘프레임의 완전탄소성모델 분석 결과 최대내력은 강절형 문형라멘프레임보다 낮았으나 파괴 후 인성이 우수하여 종국내력은 1.05~1.07 높은 값이 산출되었다. 강판삽입형 문형라멘프레임은 반복 시험이 진행됨에 따라 강성이 급격히 감소한 반면 접합부가 목질로된 문형라멘프레임들의 강성은 서서히 감소되었다.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.53-61
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• 2017

본 연구에서는 고강성, 고인성의 경량화된 목질접합부를 제작하기 위하여 슬릿 가공된 기둥부재 중앙에 강판 대용인 목질접합물을 삽입하고 기둥부재와 목질접합물만 결합된 시험편들을 제작하였다. 시험편들은 강판을 사용한 대조군 시험편과 모멘트 저항성능을 비교분석하였다. GFRP보강목질적층판과 핀으로 제작된 시험편들은 강판삽입형 시험편 보다 평균 24% 저하된 최대모멘트가 측정되었으나 양호한 인성이 관찰되었다. 파괴형상은 기둥부재의 연단부분에서 연륜을 따라 파괴되었다. 집성재와 목질적층판을 접착제로 일체화한 강절형 시험편은 대조군 시험편보다 초기강성이 2.8배 향상되었고, 최대모멘트도 평균 40% 향상된 경향을 보였다. 강절형 시험편들은 접착층 주위에서 파단되었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.306-315
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• 2006

Today, the uniform is perceived being important, because it transmits the unique company image through visualization of images, improves efficiency of work, and increases the feeling of belonging. Therefore, the purpose of this project was to make the winter uniform for the personnel in the manufacturing and the business departments of Korea Tobacco and Ginseng Corporation. The functional, aesthetic, and symbolic aspects were fully considered throughout the design process for the new uniform. To reflect the worker's opinions, the questionnaire method was used. The questionnaire was made up of the questions about the evaluation criteria and design preference for uniform. The result of the survey was reflected on the uniform design. The uniform consists of a jumper and a pair of pants. The jumper for manufacturing workers has two patched pockets with gussets. It has a convertible collar and a horizontal tuck on front panel. It has an open fastener on the front and a flap to cover the fastener. It has two types of pockets inside for functional reason. The welt one is for a wallet and the small one is for a pen. For the material, melanges with two tones of gray color was used, so it gave the sophisticated look on the uniform. The jumper for business workers also has a convertible collar and inside pockets. It has two slant slash pockets with welt. In addition, it has an attachable fur collar which gives thermal protection and aesthetic effect. The fabric has small check pattern and was made of wool. The pants are a basic trouser style with two pleats on the front.