• 복식
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• 제64권8호
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• pp.20-36
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• 2014

This research aims to identify and analyze the expression elements and features of Goth style observed in clothing of unique characters in movies directed by Tim Burton, and to build the database on diverse features movie costumes, so that such data can be used to develop new fashion design. The research-classified features of Goth style into romanticism overturns Satanism, grief, and sensuality. The results are as follow; First, Goth expressed romanticism by reminding the gloom and fear of medieval times through the image of clowns, medieval knights, werewolves and vampires. Second, The costumes in Tim Burton's movies overthrew the rules in reality using flexible changes, ambiguity of gender, distorted human beings, half-man-half-beasts, and ghost images. Furthermore, the positive expression on characters in gloomy and fearful costumes showed the overturn of common idea and value system in a society. Third, Tim Burton created fear using the image of a live dead body, shape of a devil, shape of death. Also, accessories suddenly changed into arms in his movies. He expressed Satanism by positively describing satanic shapes and shapes meaning death. Next, characters in Tim Burton's movies are mainly losers, aliens or outsiders. Sorrow, alienation and darkness inside them expressed the sadness through embodiment of mean animals in darkness, masks, veils and extreme black costumes. Finally, Sensuality was rarely shown in Tim Burton's movies, but expressed in various ways including pursuit of new beauty in excessive exposure, skintight silhouette, suggestion on sexualized violence and frightfulness.

• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2010

The purpose of this research is to examine the rise of hip-hop culture and its characteristics which have been established as a part of popular culture amid other subcultures and to examine the overall concept of hip-hop fashion which has been developing since its rise in the 1970s and particularly to examine the hip-hop after the turn of the new century when it has gone through several iterations and changes while simultaneously accommodating different trends and reflecting a highly diverse larger culture. The research methodology is a literature-based research that uses classification and analysis based on the preceding research including related books and dissertations and, considering that this research focuses on the characteristics of hip-hop from the 2000s to the present, mainstream news media such as newspapers and magazines around New York images of famous hip-hop culture & stores websites were used in this research. The most characteristic hip-hop fashions since the 2000s examined by this research comprise prep-hop, slim formal suits, skurban, hip-hop Goth, and hip-hop Tatto. First, prep-hop is a mixed match of a preppy look with latest hip-hop sentiments and hip-hop styles. Second, there are slim formal suits that reflect a change of trends that strongly show changes of hip-hop fashion consumers who have been following sports stars' fashions. Third, skurban is a hip-hop fashion combined with the look of skaters. Fourth, hip-hop Goth is what emphasizes strong Goth images such as grunge, skull, and devil in hip-hop fashions based on vintage fashion. Fifth, hip-hop Tatto style designs have appeared in diverse items such as trendy clothes and accessories that were most popular since the 2000s. Hip-hop fashion since the 2000s up to the present is beginning to be integrated with diverse other cultures and its most prominent characteristics is a change into slimmer silhouette.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.163-179
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• 2012

Among diverse cultural types which can be shown in movie, 'Subculture' is young culture that resist to major culture. It shows its belief and identity via its own style. Their 'Subcultural Style' became popular with mass media and has been affected to major cultures. Therefore, in this research, with times background as postmodernism in end of 20th century and mainly with movie which is about sexual minorities, I analyzed categories of costumes in the movie. Hedwig's rock costume shows combined fashion with hippie, punk, glam, kitsch, goth styles from the impact of postmodernism in mid 20th century. Tommy, showed his relief and defiant intention against old generations with grunge casual and graffiti styles. After he realized Hedwig's identity and showed defiant goth rock style as a famous rocker. The band, "Angry Inch", showed dissatisfaction and cynical attitude against the American society through subculture styles. Through this research, the fact that movie costume used a tool to show human's identity and value. Also, I can see that movie costume shows times and cultural phenomenon in the end of 20th century and through this, it was confirmed that this contributes to crease new fashion style through them.

• 복식
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• 제59권4호
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• pp.14-25
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• 2009

This Study is purposed to comparative analysis in the case of balanced with Ethnic image fashion and the event of an unbalanced between fashion and make-up and to reconfigure on the make-up of the features on the Ethnic image Fashion in the 21st century. The result of this study is as follows. First, in the case of Japanese ethnic image make-up, to emphasize applied forms and formative characterization, they generally use circles and horizontal lines. Also the harmony between Japanese image make-up and primary colors like white and red strengthen ethnic images better. In the event of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, fashion occurs dynamically in Africa and linearly in China. Sexy & natural image make-up also widely appear in the modern view. Second, in the case of African ethnic make-up balanced with African image fashion, the form is repeatedly dotted, widely water-colored, and mattedly textured using ash make-up colors such as white, red, gold, gray and so forth. African image make-up strongly expresses primitive natural beauty adding primal tribal painting art and mask forms. In case of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, no distinctive ethnic image make-up appears. To emphasize natural patterns as well as splendid & decorative fashion, they try not to use primary colors, but instead focus on natural make-up and monotone colored point make-up, sexy make-up, avant-garde make-up, goth make-up, romantic make-up, glossy make-up.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.396-407
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• 2011

Various media are expanding the fantastic expression methods and sphere wider than now. As an intermediate for expressing fully self-desires, fashion of the day has surfacing an important concept called fantastic that does not exist and surpasses reality in expressing the ideal body of a desiring body. Goth and cospre are personal expressions of movie costumes that visualize virtual reality as representative of fantastic fashions. The fantastic is a modem concept putting together SF, fantasy, magical realism, fable, and surrealism. Studies in fashion fields related to fantastic have treated fantastic illiberally and peripherally owing to the centering on the SF genre or fantasy. The thesis that dealt with an important fashion as an external favorite as well as the socio-cultural contents of the expressed body in genre expression remains inadequate. In research methods, this study carried out theoretical reviews on the concept and characteristic of the fantastic through literature data that includes local and international theoretical books, monographs, and dissertations that are related to the fantastic. The experimental analysis was executed by collecting fashion works shown after 2000 and included in special fashion editions, collection magazines, Internet materials, and monographs. The results show that the categorization of expression characteristic (according to fantastic spheres) appeared as 5 kinds such as uncanny borderline, cyborg grotesque, heroic superman, myth allegory, and unconscious meaninglessness.

• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.14-26
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• 2009

This study is to investigate makeup shown in fashion collections of Christian Dior based on semiotical theory of Morris. Morris's theory developed from semiotics of Peirce composed of syntactics, semantics and pragmatics. Therefore, in the case of analysis of fashion makeup, syntactics investigates signs of forms, colors, textures and materials of makeup, semantics finds out meanings of the signs of syntactics and pragmatics analyzes aesthetic characteristics which the signs of syntactics and the meanings of semantics symbolize. Fashion makeup in Christian Dior Collections were expressed experimentalism sign, multi-culture sign and popularity sign. Experimentalism signs were expressed with graphic makeup and cyber techno makeup and multi-culture signs were done with ethnic make up and retro makeup. In addition, goth make up and hitch makeup showed popularity signs. This study found that the three types of signs were considered to reflect aesthetics of the contemporary fashion. Also, this study could conclude that fashion makeup was able to be interpreted by Morris' semiotics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.306-325
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• 2017

This study analyzed how a time-honored fashion house has harmonized its design identity over a sustained period with its successor designers. Givenchy Fashion House was selected as the subject of this study. This study focused on literary research, analyzed design features and fashion images based on photos of Huber de Givenchy's collections (1952-1995) and collections by Riccardo Tisci (2006-2016), the creative director of the house. Photos were gathered from books and fashion websites; in addition design was analyzed based on a review by experts on collections. The results are as follows. Hubert de Givenchy won fame for simplified modern elegance that presented a new beauty for modern women and reached the peak of his career from the 1950s to the 1960s. Riccardo Tisci respected the couture tradition of the Givenchy Fashion House. He successfully revitalized the house by simultaneously emphasizing his personal design features and reinterpreting the design identity as well as tried to establish new house signatures. In conclusion, the original design identity of the Givenchy Fashion House is based on Hubert de Givenchy's timeless modern elegance that has been reformed by Riccardo Tisci as romantic goth and sensual elegance.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.151-170
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

• 한국심리학회지 : 문화 및 사회문제
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• 제14권1호_spc
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• pp.391-407
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• 2008

본 연구에서는 독일 청소년과 한국 청소년의 기질 및 성격 특성을 비교문화적 관점에서 비교하고자 하였다. 이 목적을 위하여 만 12-18세의 715명의 독일 청소년 (M=14.70, SD=1.80)과 1411명의 한국 청소년들(M=15.18, SD=1.69)이 청소년용 기질 및 성격검사를 통해 관찰되었다. t-검증 결과, '자기초월' 척도를 제외하곤 나머지 6개의 전 기질 및 성격척도에서 독일과 한국 청소년 집단간 유의한 차이가 발견되었다. 그러나 집단의 크기가 클 경우 작은 평균 차이에도 통계적 유의한 결과가 나오는 점을 고려하여 크기 효과를 검증하는 effect size를 분석하였을 때, 기질 차원에서는 위험회피에서, 성격차원에서는 자율성 척도에서만 유의한 차이가 나타났다. 즉, 한국 청소년 집단이 독일청소년 집단에 비해 억제와 불안 차원의 높은 위험회피 기질 특성과 아울러 자기수용, 자기신뢰, 목적의식, 유능감 차원에서 낮은 자율성 성격특성을 나타내었다. 두 문화에 나타난 성차를 effect size를 통해 분석하였을 때는, 독일과 한국청소년 집단 모두에서 여성 청소년이 남성 청소년보다 사회적 민감성 기질 특성이 유의하게 높은 것으로 나타났다. 나타난 결과는 동양과 서양을 비교하는데 사용되는 개인주의와 집단주의의 틀에서 논의되었으며 각 문화권의 교육정책 및 사회적 분위기와도 관련지어 살펴보는 것이 제안되었다.