• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.91-106
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• 2023

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity-viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum-is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017-fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.109-123
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• 2024

This study explored characteristics of Camp style as presented in the musical The Rocky Horror Show, analyzing its symbolic meanings through the lens of Greimas' semiotic square model. Camp style, known for its exaggerated expressions, irony, and fluid gender representations, plays a central role in challenging traditional gender norms and cultural binaries. This study begins by outlining the significance of The Rocky Horror Show in musical theater and pop culture, highlighting its impact on fashion and art. Through character and costume analysis, this paper examined four key features of Camp style: symbolism, gender fluidity, playfulness, and theatricality. The semiotic square model was applied to deconstruct complex relationships between these features, particularly focusing on contradiction and opposition. Research findings demonstrated how Camp's symbolic elements in costume design interacted with the narrative and character identities to convey deeper cultural and social meanings. This analysis provides insights into how Camp style functions as both a visual and cultural critique within the framework of the musical.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.9
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• pp.1085-1098
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• 2011

In the $21^{st}$ century, technology is a tool for the expansion of the five senses and physical ability that works as an element for posthuman identity. This study analyzes and theorizes on the characteristics of the posthuman body in fashion illustration. The method of this study analyzes documentaries about posthuman and fashion illustration. The results are as follow. Posthuman body types are classed as hybrid body, plastic surgery body, and digital body. The characteristics of the posthuman body are categorized as ultra- functional prosthetic, mythical undifferentiated, radical plastic surgery type and post-physical digitization type. The ultra-functional prosthetic type shows a restored body and upgraded functional body through a machine hybrid, cyborg suit and mannequin hybrid. It is a break from classical gender identity to form a nerve sense extension that displays physical and abstract power. The mythical undifferentiated type shows a therianthropic form, parts of an animal body, radical skin and gender bending. It represents the return to an undifferentiated world, the desire of a powerful being and the possibility of radical transformation. The radical plastic surgery type shows a photomontage of an ideal body, transgendered body, grotesque body marking, absence of partial or overall face organ and the expansion of abnormal body organs. It represents the expression of narcissism, unconscious desire, fantasy, fear and suggests an alternative ideality, sexual attachment and ambiguous gender identity. The post-physical digitization type shows an imperfect form or duplicated ego image through the omission of the body silhouette or detailed form, fragmented image using net, representative self like optical illusion using typography, an imperfect vague silhouette and immaterial body outline through the use of virtual light. It represents the lack of desire, narcissism, fluidity in a virtual space, the continued creation of a new self, ambiguous gender identity and the liberation of environment, sex, and race. Likewise, the posthuman in fashion illustration shows the absence of a species boundary, destruction of classical gender identity, a new personality and virtual self image.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.113-128
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• 2024

This study explored boundaryless characteristics of Posthumanist black color fashion by examining fashion collections from 2018 to 2023 that explicitly incorporated Posthumanist paradigms through literature review and case analysis. Black color fashion reflects key Posthumanist attributes such as dissolution of boundaries in ecology, academia, gender, and Western-centrism. These characteristics are manifested as 'organic expression of nature and technology encompassing the body,' 'robust expression of hybridized imagery,' and 'fusion of Eastern traditional cultural expressions.' In the 'organic expression of nature and technology,' flora and fauna motifs are applied or an advanced technology is employed to realize organic forms, offering an experimental representation of post-anthropocentrism, focusing on avant-garde and sensuous fashion images. 'Robust expression of hybridized imagery' combines masculine body expressions with bold accessories to convey a resistant fashion image to gender identity norms while utilizing traditional male fashion items to present a strong and charismatic image. 'Fusion of Eastern traditional cultural expressions' integrates traditional elements from various Eastern cultures into materials, producing opulent yet ascetic fashion images through designs that can conceal the body's silhouette, reflecting a restrained image of black in Eastern cultures. This study provides a multi-layered interpretation of black color fashion in the Posthuman era, addressing themes such as 'representation of diverse organic life forms, gender fluidity, and challenges to Western-centric narratives,' contributing to a deeper understanding of how fashion interacts with socio-cultural contexts.