• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.143-153
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• 2003

This study was conducted in order to provide basic study material for children's garment design. The subjects of this study are fifth and sixth grade elementary school girls, who demonstrate rapid growth and the differences among individual somatic types are apparent. Their bodies are studied, categorized into patterns and the characteristics are examined. 1 The increase of height and length measurements according to age increase are much larger than that of breadth, depth and girth menasurments. 2. Eight factors are drawn upon factor analysis and the rate of factors comprisedare 78.68%. 3. The shapes of lower body of higher grades girls in elementary school are classified into three categories. The first type is slender in lower body and the second type is more contoured around waist area with longer length and higher height than the average elementary school girls. The third type is heavy in the lower body. 4. Eighteen items important for somatic categorization are selected through stepwise discriminant analysis and the exactitude rate of these items is 93.3%.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.14-31
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• 2022

Worn by both males and females the kimono is the national dress of Japan. Previous research highlights that this national dress is fading from tradition and evolves to develop with the times and fashion trends. This research aims to investigate what a kimono represents both historically and currently within Western society. The idea of the kimono being more than a national dress representing Japan, the main three themes researched will be (1) Shape (2) Narrative (3) Journey from East to West. Based on both primary and secondary sources this research indicates that there is a strong relationship between the universal increase of kimono wearers in Eastern and Western societies from history through to present day. Primary research is utilised in the form of two types of interviews. Primary outcomes bring a personal perspective to how and why kimono is worn nowadays within Europe. Secondary sources include online lectures held by kimono specialists as well as subject relevant books. From the 19th century where the Dutch were the only European country to trade with Japan, an exchange of fabrics took place which later led to the exchange of: fit, fashion and pattern (primarily within Western womenswear fashion.) This distinct garment never gets discontinued and evolves with social demands within society today.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.368-377
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• 2020

This study provided basic data to develop functional and fitness cycling wear for cyclists. We analyzed the domestic and overseas cycling wear brand patterns for tops and tights as well as compared pads attached to tights. The results were as follows. The tops of the cycling wear were designed with cutting lines in the lateral or yoke in the back to reflect cycling posture. It is necessary to study if there is a difference in the air resistance or fitness of the athlete. The sleeve hem band affected by arm movement during cycling, proper sewing and band pressure are also important. The tights have a brand that does not insert a band in front of the waist in consideration of the cyclist's breathing. It should take into account methods of constructing a proper garment pressure that does not interfere with cycling. Analyzing the cycling pad indicated that the three-dimensional shape and size of the pad show many differences for each brand, indicating a difference in cycling movement suitability. In addition, many of the cutting lines should account for the productive aspects because of the high consumption of the fabric in order to design a pattern considering the cycling posture.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.152-159
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• 2003

The considerations on the costumes of the past, which have been conducted to the present for the purpose of creating a new design, are not just a simple imitation, but playing a role as a re-creation of fashion. A corset, one of the underwear items, has an important role to exaggerate, emphasize, or modify the beauty of a human body. It also contributes to form a beautiful silhouette of the outerwear. Specifically, the role of a corset today is more than a physical modification: making an underwear into an outerwear; using detailed decorations or materials of an underwear in the part of other garments. In doing these, decorative functions of costumes have been more and more emphasized. Therefore, a study on the composition or design of a corset would be an important study on the garment item that reflects fashions required by this age. The significance of the study is in its potential to provide reference materials needed in creating new underwear designs or the designs that can be made into outerwear products, by trying and producing a corset of the past. To make the corset, the definition of underwear and the characteristics of a corset were explored based on the review of the materials in the foreign museums, relevant photographs, and literature. The corset was made after understanding its minute details and examining its patterns. Pattern drawing was carried out using a Pattern CAD. As an intial phase of reproducing the corsets in the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, the scope of the present study was limited to the late Renaissance age, when corsets began to appear.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.577-584
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• 2005

The aims of this study are primary data offer to silver fashion enterprise. In order to deduce design from diverse needs of silver generation, this study is required expert knowledge. For this purpose, this study applied two rounded Delphi method in which 31 experts. As a result, the following findings were obtained; From the previous studies, we found the physical changes of women in silver generation; i.e. the size of their waist and abdomen gets larger, their breasts are sagging, their limbs are thinner, upper body is bending, their height and weight get shorter and lighter. Their choice criterion of design of clothing is hide their weak points in body, youthfulness, moderate, and fashion style. Youthful design but patterns should agree with their body line so that they should be easily fit and look young. They like a jacket and pants set best regardless of spring or summer and as upper garment, they like semi fit, as pants, they prefer straight line of ankle length, and as skirts, partial elastic band and pleats, and the length of the skirts just cover their knees. This pattern in choosing their clothes represents they consider functionality as well as the aesthetics. Their preferred color for spring is lt/pink, lt/violet lt/green for summer, white and blue. Their preferred materials are wool/poly/spandex and cotton/spandex for functionality for spring, and for summer, linen poly and cotton poly seersucker for cool feeling and stability. In both top and bottom item, solid pattern follows small one in their preference on patterns, which shows that they are in pursuit of an elegant style. Our research based on this survey tries to establish what the fashion design for the silver generation should take into consideration.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권7호
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• pp.1090-1102
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to develop an improved work clothing which is much safe, comfortable, mobility and convenient than what workers currently wear at construction site. The investigation has been conducted to evaluate current work clothing to grasp any problems, discomforts and damages related to the work clothing. For the best and accurate data, hands-on investigation and a short-interview have been performed at the construction site as well as formulating a questionnaire. The questionnaires was answered by 425 workers and safety manager of 13 different construction site. The result of the questionnaire enables us to design a sample work clothing, many pa π s such as material, pattern and design have been improved. To improve the amenity of heat, the surface of a material was used by $Aerocool^{\circledR}$ fiber which contains inside dryness function. In order to absorb perspiration on the back the armpits, mesh martial that is mixture of $Coolever^{TM}$ fiber and $Mirawave^{TM}$ fiber was used to absorb perspiration in an effective manner. And a sleeve's bottom part and trousers' bottom part's cover method have been changed. Sample work clothing was shorten at the side of upper garment up to 2cm and lengthen the length of the back by 3cm. To reduce the tightness around armpit more room was given in that area. Darts were added to the elbow, the hip, and the knees that also followed an ergonomic pattern. A sample work clothing evaluated an objective assessment and subjective assessment to compare to a current work clothing. Assessment group consists of seven subject groups and nine expert groups to evaluate external appearance and adaptability to the movements. In all aspects of the test, the result of evaluation process of the sample work clothing received more positive assessment than the current work clothing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.457-467
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• 2016

This study aimed to develop functional underwear for elderly women in their sixties in terms of good fit, wear comfort and body temperature regulation. To satisfy elderly women's physical and metabolical needs, an automatic temperature control system via PCM treatment was applied. Underwear pattern was produced by producing body surface replica, which was derived from 3D body parametric model. Differential ratios of outline length and area between 3D surface and 2D plane were 1.4% and 0.5%, respectively. The reduction rate was determined as 10% through the expert's evaluation. PCM treated fabric showed higher Q-max, meaning that it can facilitate the thermal transition in hot situation. Moreover, it also showed higher insulation to preserve heat and keep warm microclimate in a cold weather. Heat distribution measurements on various body parts revealed that the temperature after PCM treatment was significantly higher. The clothing pressure after 10% pattern reduction showed higher before reduction, at the same time, even lower than the comfort clothing pressure range of $5{\sim}10gf/cm^2$, implying that experimental garment of this research is acceptable in terms of clothing pressure. Evaluation results on the comfort to move in various motions proved that adequate clothing pressure improved the wear comfort in various motions.

• 복식
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.218-230
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• 2012

The 25 pieces of women's jogori worn by ChangRyung Jo's family(1721~1742) that are preserved in Yeoju Museum, Gyeounggi Province, Korea were examined in this study. The aim of this study is to analyze women's jogori that were excavated from the grave of Changryung Jo's family, and to characterize women's costumes around the middle $18^{th}$ Century. The size of the jogori was divided into two groups. The garment length of the first group ranged from 31cm to 34cm and the bigger size ranged from 36.5cm to 40cm. The number of jogori in the group with the smaller size was twenty-five pieces and five pieces for the group with the bigger size. Changryung Jo's jogori was composed of two pieces of padded jogori, four pieces of quilted jogori and nineteen pieces of double layer jogori. Even though the direction of the margin located on back seemed point toward the right hand side, the gorum, the string for the tie, and the Sup, the outer gore of the jogori located on the other side of the margin had no pattern of direction. The line of jogori from the armhole gets narrower toward the edge of sleeves which could be recognized as a typical pattern of the middle $18^{th}$ Century jugori. The bigger group of jogori seemed to be worn by people other than ChangRyung Jo's relatives and used to be a gifts to aid in funerals. Major characteristics of jogori is could be categorized into the Dangko Mokpan collar jogori and Samhaejang jogori. The results of this study helps set the relative dating for the women's jogori of middle $18^{th}$ Century where not much excavations have been made.

• 복식
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• 제66권1호
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• pp.122-134
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• 2016

The Mural Tomb of Xu Xianxiu(AD 571), a high ranking official in Northern Qi period, is located in Taiyuan, Shanxi province, China. Despite having been raided, it was still discovered to contain over 530 pieces, such as artifacts and murals, in excellent state of preservation. These murals are noteworthy for their high level of detail compared to other murals from the same era, and are important for understanding the historical context of active East-West and Han-Hu cultural exchange in the $6^{th}$ to $7^{th}$ century. The murals of Xu Xianxiu's tomb depict round-collared and narrow-sleeved garments as well as straight collared robes typical of the Xianbei tribe's attire. Notable are the ermine fur overcoat and a headwear with flares on the left and right thought to be unique to the Xianbei. The wife and female servants show female attire of the Xianbei at the time; this attire can be characterized by narrow-sleeved long gowns and asymmetrical flying-bird buns. Despite the anti-Han policy of Northern Qi, influences such as the right sided gathering of the robes and embellished hair styles remain. The procession also depicts the three-cornered headdress and long-tailed hood of the Xianbei men, which have been recorded in documents. The large rounded pearl pattern containing the palmette, the divine animal, and bodhisattva's head motifs show the influence of the Western China [Xi'yu]. Considering that Northern Qi had more active interactions with the three ancient kingdoms of Korea than with the Southern Kingdoms[Nanchao], the findings of this study call for further research on the correlation between the attire of ancient Korea and Northern Qi.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.216-224
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• 2016

Recently, the interest in a garment that accentuates a fit and slender body continues to be highly desirable. Customers frequently want to wear a slim designed jacket that fits well, reflecting the trends of being young and slim. Accordingly, this research collected information on brands with ready-to-wear slim fit tailored jackets that target female customers in their 30s. By identifying the jacket pattern design and production state by brand, and evaluating the appearance when wearing the jacket, I was able to draw up the following conclusions. First, the fit highlights many problems because of the difference between the model size of brands that targeted domestic women in their 30s and the standard somatotype of them. This can be solved by considering the somatotype of women in their 30s when choosing the models. Second, the relative simplicity of the pattern should allow a slim fit tailored jacket to be produced that fits the front, back and side well. This would lead to the development of a jacket that would fit better as well as allowing for ease of movement. Similar to this, the model size of domestic brands changes frequently and customers prefer the size of a slim model instead of the size suitable for a target's somatotype. This results in a limit on the levels of satisfaction regarding brand targets for body types. Accordingly, it is hoped that this research will become the standard data for the development of a slim fit tailored jacket that will fit women in their 30s well.