• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권11호
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• pp.1824-1835
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• 2010

This study develops tight-fitting torso patterns for performance garments by taking into account the skin deformation generated directly from a 3D scan during arm movements. The skin deformation caused during the arm movements was scanned after scanning the skin surface stamped with a circle. To create a torso pattern in response to skin deformation, the ratio and direction of the skin deformation were first measured and analyzed so that the 3D human body could be segmented. After translating, the 3D skin surface was segmented into 2D flat patterns, designing nude patterns and reducing them as well as tight-fitting shirts: the skin deformation segment shirts were made in response to the skin deformation. The features of the fabric deformation and the garment pressure were analyzed and evaluated. In comparison with a clothing construction segment shirt, the diameter of the skin deformation segment shirt was smaller as well the ratios of extension and reduction was less. The garment pressure of the skin deformation segment shirt was higher. The skin deformation segment shirt fitted more tightly compared to a clothing construction segment shirt as it covered the body more thoroughly and was as comfortable as the other shirts with less fabric deformation made as the body moved.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.99-109
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to survey sizing system and preferable ease and to decide the body measuring items for pattern making in a men's dress shirt for mass customization industry that is rising to the surface as a new production system. For this, it had a survey subjects were 254 males between 25 to 44 years old who wear dress shirt frequently and the relevant on line companies, and analyzed the garment sizing system and preferable ease. Collected data were analysed by frequency analysis, t-test, $X^2-test$, and ANOVA using SPSS 12.0 for window. Garment pattern making should reflect the sizes of the body parts well, and simplification of the ordering process would work as an important variable. In relation to the preferable ease, older people preferred more ease while younger people preferred fit ease. In relation to the sizes, people wearing the size of '110' preferred more ease than the size of '90'. And people weighing over 90kg preferred sufficient ease than less weighing. People height over 170cm people preferred sufficient ease for the length between shoulders than height under 170cm. In case of the companies had no consistent sizing system. Significant difference was found in the sizes, except for the size of '100', among those companies, there was significant difference in the length between shoulders and the length of the shirt among those companies and those sizes. Significant body parts for a garment pattern making was height, the circumference of the neck, the chest circumference, the length between biacromion, the arms length, and the waist circumference.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.107-122
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• 2023

This study analyzed the style, dimensions, fabric patterns, colors, and fabrics of a traditional Chinese women's dress from the Zhou Dynasty, and reconstructed it in the form of a virtual garment using 3D CLO. Based on ancient flat image data and three-dimensional portrait data, who wore them, how they were worn, and how they were coordinated was analyzed. In order to analyze the size and pattern of the straight Ju Chines dress, data from the excavation report and the tomb owner's anthropometric measurements were combined to infer the wearing condition and organize the sculptural features. Dimensional analysis was carried out using a well-preserved small-scale woven cotton cloth as a restoration model, and the horizontal and vertical dimensions were reasonably estimated using the shape proportioning method. The analysis of the colors and patterns of the fabrics was based on the colors and patterns of the fabrics excavated from Masan Tomb No. 1 during the Eastern Zhou, Qin, and Han periods. Finally, a virtual model was created using data from the excavation report and the age and height information of the owner of the excavated robe, and the pose and size of the virtual model were determined using 3D CLO. Based on the previous research data, the garment was virtually sewn and simulated. The shape, pressure, and strain of the garment in different postures was also compared. Through the research direction of pattern and 3D restoration, this research maximizes the restoration of Chinese traditional women's dress and presents it in a more intuitive, comprehensive, and vivid way.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권8호
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• pp.1125-1136
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• 2000

Fitness of clothes becomes a major concern in apparel industry. Development of basic patterns will enhance the fitness of clothes. But there are few slacks patterns for the middle-high school girls. So girls had difficulties to buy ready-made clothes of good fit. To solve this problem, it is necessary to develop basic slacks patterns. The purposes of this study was to develop basic slacks patterns based on the analysis of lower body types. 4 girls were selected among 402 anthropometric measurement subjects who are 13 to 15 year-old for the wearing tests. The result of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Analysing the replicas of lower body surface by using gypsum method, slack patterns were developed. 2. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly than existing patterns in the items of the comfort of front crotch and back crotch. 3. Wearing test by moire topography method represented that garment silhouette of developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly and garment space of waist, hip were significantly different among patterns.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.1191-1204
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• 2014

Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.55-67
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• 2019

This study analyzed the fabric and product size of the burn patient's custom compression garment and measured the pressure applied by the garment to assess whether proper pressure is being delivered for treatment. The test clothes were presented to the market by body size and commissioned with the same design. The subjects selected four people close to the average body size of men in their 20s determined by 7th Size Korea. The experiment was conducted by wearing a compression suit, performing activities and measuring changes in the pressure of the garment according to changes in posture. The fabric used for the compressive clothing was not ruptured even at 216 kPa, the elasticity recovery rate was measured between 80.5 and 94.5%. The product dimensions of the experimental clothing varied by up to 8cm from brand to brand, requiring the standardization of compression clothing. The experiment showed that four types of compression suit varied in pressure, and the pressure range, excluding the gastric arm (17.9mmHg), was between 2.5-14.1mmHg, which failed to meet the level of pressurization for treatment purposes. The clothing pressure in the chest area dropped when performing movements rather than standing still. This was interpreted to be a result of reduced the adhesion of the compression suit during operation. The peak pressure (31.68mmHg) and the lowest pressure (2.2mmHg) was noted in the scapula, indicating that no pressure was being transmitted on the vertebrae. The pressure of the garment on the right shoulder blade was elevated in a supine position. Because much time is spent laying down, it is necessary for the pattern design to accommodate for the increased clothing pressure on the shoulder blades. Standardization of the level of pressurization for burn patient's custom-made pressure suits for each stage of treatment is urgently required.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.555-563
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• 2010

With recent advances in 3D scanning technology, three-dimensional (3D) patternmaking is becoming a powerful way to develop garments pattern. This technology is now applicable to the made to measure (MTM) system of both ordinary and tightly fitting garments. Although the pattern of fitted clothing has been developed using 3D human data, it is still interesting to develop cycling pants by considering while-cycling body posture and fabric elasticity. This study adopted the Garland's triangle simplification method in order to simplify data without distorting the original 3D scan. Next, the Runge-Kutta method (2C-AN program) was used to develop a 2D pattern from the triangular pixels in the 3D scanned data. The 3D scanned data of four male, university students aged from 21 to 25, was obtained using Whole body scanner (Model WB4, Cyberware, Inc., USA). Results showed the average error of measurement was $4.58cm^2$ (0.19%) for area and 0~0.61cm for the length between the 3D body scanned data and the 2D developed pattern data. This is an acceptable range of error for garment manufacture. Additionally, the 2D pattern developed, based on the 3D body scanned data, did not need ease for comfort or ease of movement when cycling. This study thus provides insights into how garment patterns may be developed for ergonomic comfort in certain special environments.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권8호
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• pp.1524-1535
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to establish a sizing system according to size and dimension whereby manufactured pants can be classified and develop men’s formal pants pattern based on the analysis of ready-made and educational pants pattern. The first, we surveyed the sizing and the basic pants patterns of the men’s ready-made wear companies, Secondly, through the survey data of the domestic men’ready-mad clothing industry, we proposed a new sizing system. Lastly, after compared three different types of ready-mad pants manufactured according to their patterns and an additional type of pants made after the educational pattern, the new men’s basic pants pattern were developed. The findings were as follows: 1. Survey of the domestic ready-mad garment industry showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own sizing system: moreover, they each used its own unique patterns which appeared to be resulted from a combination of two factors : the experience of a patterner and foreign know-how technology. 2. New sizing system was developed with 12 steps from size 74-88 to size 96-106 based on the high frequencies of the companies’3. New basic patterns for men’s formal pants were developed: Inseam length = 80cm, crotch line = H/4+4.6cm, pants ham = 23.5cm as basic lines and front waist girth =W/4+9.1cm as drafting line. 4. the superiority of the new basic patterns were been demonstrated by a high approval rate of the subjects who participated in testing.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1038-1052
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze present the pattern making of the lining fabrics calculating the right ease and rising quantities of arm-hole when the pattern of the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics is produced. The outcomes of this study are as follows. The right ease of lining fabrics was not room of 0cm as patterns being same the right side of fabrics in the girth of the chest, waist, and the edge of a garment and gets the most excellent valuation, and then the girth of the chest, and waist was applied to 2cm and around the edge of a garment 0cm in regular lining fabrics. In addition to, although the ease of patterns of the lining fabrics was more, it was not necessarily to satisfy. The result of the valuation according to the quantities of rising arm-hole of the pattern of the lining fabrics showed that the making lining fabrics that the quantities of rising arm-hole was 0.8cm in the body and 1.2cm in the sleeve in the both the stretchable fabrics and regular lining fabrics was the most excellent thing, and then 0cm in the body and 2cm in the sleeve, and then 0cm in the body and 0cm in the sleeve. The valuation of external appearance on the quantities of rising arm-hole was recognized similarly because of being rarely significance level, but around the chest and waist was recognized as being significance level in wearing satisfaction.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.62-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop men's formal jacket pattern for the Korean males of age 25 to 34 age with an average physique. Through the survey on seven industries of the ready-made men's wear, we investigated size systems and jacket patters presently practiced. From the fitting test of four patterns (three for ready-made jacket patterns, one for educational pattern) the moat favorable and comfortable pattern was selected. New experimented jacket pattern was based on it. The findings were as followed. 1) Survey of the domestic ready-made garment industries showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own size systems. 2) Anthropometric measurments of forty males for the subjects of lilting test were agreed to the survey of National Anthropometric of Korean(1997). These were also compatible to the standard size (100-88-175) of investigated industries. 3) Experimental jacket pattern was completed through the three times rectification and it gained higher ratings.