• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.455-461
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• 2012

The aim of this study was to investigate the appropriate elasticity of the textile material used for making women's girdle. Background: The elastic textiles have been used for making girdle. The hard type girdle gave high pressure on the body to make slim look. However, excessively high garment pressure caused negative effect to human bodies. This study studied the material giving proper garment pressure in girdle. Method: In this study five experimental girdles were made fabrics with various elasticities. The change of garment pressures and body girths were measured after subjects wearing the experimental girdles. The garment pressure was measured at 10 points. Body girths measured at abdomen, hip, and thigh. Results: The garment pressure of the commercial girdle was high at side of waistband, side femur and back gluteal fold. The experimental girdles made with high elasticity material definitely lowered garment pressure at those points. After wearing experimental girdle their abdomen and hip girths measurements were decreased. But, thigh girth was not reduced. Conclusion: The girdle made with excellent elasticity materials reduced garment pressure significantly and it made body slim as much as the commercial girdle except the thighs. Application: This study provides guideline for the developing girdle that applying optimum range of garment pressure with body slim effect.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.30-42
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• 2017

A comprehensive research must be conducted on manufacturing techniques such as patterns and sewing, with the understanding of material properties to satisfy consumers' emotions with a strong fashion trend orientation. Physical and emotional characteristics may change depending on the characteristics of the material, and the overall silhouette and feeling of the garment can change depending on how sewing is conducted.To examine the completeness of a finished garment depending on different kinds of clothing material, this study fabricated an actual garment and a 3D virtual garment as well using 3D CAD IMAGE SYSTEM (CLO 3D, DC Suite, etc.) for a comparative analysis. These two methods have their own advantages and disadvantages. This study selected five of the most representative clothing materials and conducted a comparative analysis on appearance differences between actual clothing and virtual clothing by material. Additionally, the study verified the similarity between actual clothing and virtual clothing by comparing their physical properties by material, and evaluated the objectivity and accuracy of the reproducibility of material properties of virtual clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.189-199
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• 2005

The purposes of this study are to see a manufacturing process on knit by comparison, and to present whole garment knitting machine different from the traditional method of the production by using the whole garment system. The characteristics of each stage were examined through SDS-one, Shimaseiki Design CAD System and the whole garment knitting machine. The whole garment knitting machine as a method of composing a suit of knitting product is a way of making creative knitting fashion, which also can be used as a basic material for the further study on the whole garment knitting machine. Eventually, it is expected that this machine can satisfy the knit wearers' various needs by showing more useful method to knit designers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Using the premise that fashion and art reflects the characteristics of its times, this study examines the influence of Anti-form in fashion with a focus on physicality. This study combines literary survey and case analysis of both Anti-form in 1960s and 1970s and the fashion collections since 1970s when the influence of Anti-form began to appear in fashion. The influence of Anti-form focusing on physicality is summarized as deconstruction of garment and visualization of the physicality of material. Deconstruction of garment visualizes the invisible structures of garment by deconstructing, restructuring, and deforming the construction and the shapes of the garment, which is illustrated by visualization of design process, overlapping and fusing of materials, loss of stitches, and use of fabrics with flaws, questioning and destroying the sartorial conventions and aesthetic standards. Visualization of the physicality of material exposes the imperfect inside of garment which is concealed conventionally by presenting unfinished garments with minimized sewing procedure, crumpling and flattening fabrics, rubbing and fading surfaces, pulling threads, as well as using the selvages of fabrics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.64-78
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to set a characteristic design by analyzing formative properties for the hat and fashion image shown in fashion collections from the S/S season of 1998 to the F/W season of 2004 in recent seven years. For the study, the 96 stimuli which found frequently in fashion collection were selected. The examines for the image evaluation were women college students majoring fashion design related fields and living in Seoul, Gyeonggi-do, and Gyeongsangnam-do. Data collection was performed in August 2004. As statistical methods for data analysis, internal consistency method, Factor Analysis, MANOVA were used. Based on the analysis of 31 pairs of adjectives for elucidating the total 96 stimuli which were devised by altering the types of garment, the relation between a garment and a color of hat, the types of hat, the length of hair, and the material and design of garment, five factors or attractiveness, gracefulness, concentration, cuteness, and hardness and softness were deduced. And it showed much difference in the types of garment, the relations between a garment and a color of hat, the types of hat, the length of hair, and the material and design of a garment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.125-143
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• 2015

This study has investigated the status of utilizing 3D printing in fashion field in order to keep up with the trend for 3D printing technology to be realized in all industries so that the materials and the modeling modes may be figured out. The following is the findings. The materials used most in 3D printing in fashion field are PA, PLA, TPU, multi-material, ABS and metal. PA, TPU and Multi-material have so much excellent flexibility and strength that they are widely used for garment, shoes and such fashion items as bags. But PLA, ABS and metal are scarcely used for garment because PLA is easily biodegradable in the air, ABS generates harmful gas in the process of manufacture and metal is not flexible, while all of these three are partly used for shoes and accessories. The modeling modes mainly applied for 3D printing in fashion field are SLS, SLA, FDM and Polyjet. SLS, which is of a powder-spraying method, is used for making 3D textile seen just like knitting. Polyjet method, which has higher accuracy and excellent flexibility, can be used for expressing diverse colors, and accordingly it is used a lot for high-quality garment, while SLA and FDM method are found to be mostly used for manufacturing shoes and accessories rather than for making garment because they are easily shrunk to result in deformation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.2 s.161
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• pp.292-299
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• 2007

Development of portable device measuring the vital sign continuously with no limit of time and space is absolutely prerequisite for the U-health care that grafts the ubiquitous concept into medical system. Accordingly, it requires to develop a garment style apparatus for measuring vital-sign that is easy to wear on for a long time period. This study suggests a method to improve the insulation of electric cable and the skin adhesion of electrode by integrating the electric conductive material to garment, in order to develop a garment apparatus for measuring ECG for U-health care. Results of the research are as follows; In order to provide the adjacent conductive yarns with insulation, braid with narrow woven end was interlaced using polyester yarn. As a result, the direct contact between electric conductive yarns was restrained, which would be interposed into pin-tuck structured cable. Washable silicone gel applied around the electrode made of electric conductive fabric improved the adhesion, which prevents electrodes from dropping off from the skin surface during body movement. ECG signals on the human subject were tested using the garment apparatus developed by the above method. And the result was that the clear QRS wave formation in the typical form of ECG could be measured in both conditions of still and moving state as well. The result of this study is expected to contribute for the production of U-health care related medical apparatus by accelerating the practical uses of the garment measuring vital sign at a reasonable price.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.567-576
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to analyze and determine the relationship between physiological responses including blood flow rate and garment pressure, and the feeling of restrictive tightness associated with the wearing skinny pants as a popular clothing style. Evaluation was based on material type, posture and activity type, and body part location. Five female college students took part in this research. Five kinds of experimental clothes with waist measurements of 66cm were chosen. An analysis of the selected skinny pants demonstrated the degree of the whole looseness was higher in this order: clothing type A>B>D>C, and E with E being knitted cloth. Garment pressure was the highest in the front knee portions and was lowest in the outside thigh region. Garment pressure was highest in this sequence : clothing type C>=D>A>=B>E. In terms of posture and activity types, garment pressure was the highest when research participants were crouching, and was the lowest when standing. The blood flow rate was highest in this order: clothing type E>D>B>A>C. Type C skinny pants impeded blood flow and demonstrated the tightest and most restrictive relationship. Blood flow rate varied depending on the type of movement and was highest in this order: getting up, rowing, kicking, jumping and O-shaped leg posture. The results of subjective pressure evaluation demonstrated that pressure was highest in this order: E>=C>B>A>D. These results suggests the need to improve on the patterns and the material design in the area of the front knees. The degree of the looseness when wearing skinny pants did not always correspond to garment pressure or subjective sensation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.91-101
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• 2014

String, as clothing material, has played a functional, symbolic and decorative role in garment traditionally. The string has a shape of continuous line, which is one of the basic elements for the design: points, lines and sides. It can effectively represent the silhouette by making our vision flow to a certain direction. This study reinterprets the traditional form of string in a new modern way by developing "Tube-Shaped String" which has an empty hole in the middle. As a creative attempt, the new tube-shaped string can be used for fashion design by applying it to unique shapes, colors, textures, and draping expressions. In a role dimension, this string can become the main fabric material. The methods of the study are as follows. First, it examines the traditional shape and role of string in the history of garment. Second, it studies modern designers, such as Christian Dior, Ann Demeulemeester, Dolce & Gabbana, and 3.1 Phillip Lim, who have applied the string to their design, and have explored the various potentials of the string in the past four years. Finally, based on the theoretical research and practical analysis, this study creates a new tube-shaped string, applying its own technique to fabricating three garments: jacket, dress, and body suit. As a result, each garment shows unique silhouettes, rich texture and color, and rhythmical movement. The unique silhouettes reflect the shape and movement of different bodies. The texture and color are created through the shades of the string which come from the overlapping strips. The garments come with an unbeatable aesthetic design compared to conventional uniform design. As a new material in clothing, this tube-shaped string can be developed to satisfy the public, which has widely varying tastes in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.767-775
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• 2004

In order to evaluate physiological responses and comfort sensation of the developed thermoregulating textile material, polyester knit fabric was treated with phase change material (PCM) microcapsules by printing. Ten male subjects wearing an experimental best with and without PCMs were seated for 20 minutes, then exercised for 20 minutes, and then seated for 30 minutes in the chamber which was controlled under the temperatures of 20$\pm$1$^{\circ}C$, 50$\pm$5%R.H. The subject's skin temperature, microclimate inside garment and comfort sensation of two experimental bests were compared one another. As a result, the rectal temperature, skin temperature and mean skin temperature were similar in the two groups, and the subjects were not able to perceive the differences in comfort of the two experimental bests. However, the effect of PCM microcapsule could be seen from microclimate temperature and humidity. The microclimate temperature of the PCM garment at chest was significantly higher during exercise. The microclimate humidity of the PCM garment at chest was significantly lower during exercise and rest.