• Title/Summary/Keyword: fused fabric

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Changes of Shape retention and Total Appearance Value(TAV) After Fusing (접착포의 형태 보형성(shape retention)과 TAV(Total Appearance Value)의 변화)

  • 지주원;유효선
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.24 no.7
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    • pp.1015-1024
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study is 1) to analyse the bending property of the fused fabric and each component of the fused fabrics. 2) to examine the effect of fusing temperature on the bending property of the fused interlining and fused fabrics. 3) to examine the changes of B/W, 2HB/W and TAV of the fused fabrics according to the types of face fabric, interlining, fusing temperature. Five types of wool fabric, four types of shingosen fabric and four types of interlining were used for this study. The fusing condition in this study were the three types of fusing temperature of 10$0^{\circ}C$, 12$0^{\circ}C$, 14$0^{\circ}C$, the pressure of 4 kgㆍf/$cm^2$, and pressing time of 12 seconds. The results obtained from this study were as follows. 1) The bending rigidities and hysteresis of fabrics after fusing were increased. The bending behavior of fused fabrics were governed by the bending behavior of face fabric and interlinings and $\alpha$$_{B}$ values. 2) The KES standardized basic values of B/W and 2HB/W were increased after fusing. The B/Ws of fused fabrics were mainly determined by the $\alpha$$_{B}$ values of interlinings. The 2HB/Ws of fused fabrics seemed to be controlled by the fusing temperature. 3) The changes of TAVs of wool fused fabrics differed from those of shingosen fused fabrics. As the $\alpha$$_{B}$ values of fabric were larger and fusing temperature were increased, the TAVs of wool fused fabrics were smaller though those of shingosen fused fabrics were larger. 4) The TAVs of fused fabrics were highly correlated with the B/Ws of fused fabrics. In the case of wool fused fabrics, the TAVs of fused fabrics were negativly correlated with the 2HB/Ws of wool fabrics and used interlinings.nings.

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changers of Mechanical Properties of Wool Woresed fabrics with fusible Interlingings(Part II) (모직물의 접착심 접착에 의한 물성의 변화 (제2보))

  • 지주원;유효선;이대훈
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.22-29
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    • 1999
  • This paper descrived the changes of peel strength wrinkle recovery and dimensional stability after fusing 4 different wool face fabrics with 3 different fusible interlinings. The fusing condition was conducted by fusing press machine under 4kg.f/cm2 at 15$0^{\circ}C$. To determine the effect of the varous physical properties of the fused fabrics face fabrics and interlinings on the peel strength wrinkle recovery and dimensional stability(hygral expansion and relaxation shrinkage) of fused fabrics correlation among the KES values of fused fabrics face fabrics and interlinings to the peel strength rinkle recovery and dimensional stability of fused fabrics were expeerimentally analyzed,. As the results the peel strength was mainly influenced by the cover factor of face fabric and interlinings. After fusing wrinkle recovery and hygral expansion were decreased. The cover factor wrinkle recovery weight thickness shear rigidity and frictional properties of face fabric and the thickness of fused fabrics were not influence to the wrinkle recovery of fused fabrics. In addition the dimensional stabilities of fused fabrics were mainly influenced by the tensile and frictional properties of the wrinkle recovery of fused fabrics. In addition the dimensional stabilities of fused fabrics were mainly influenced by the tensile and frictional properties of the face fabrics.

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The Effect of Fusible Interlining on the Appearance related Properties & Mechanical Characteristics of the Lyocell Fabrics(II) (리오셀직물의 심지접착에 따른 외관적 성능 및 역학적 특성(II))

  • 김인영;오수민;송화순
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.40 no.7
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    • pp.15-24
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    • 2002
  • In this work, the effect of fusible interlining on the appearance related properties and mechanical characteristics of Lyocell fabric after fusing was investigated. Two different types(20's and 10's) of Lyocell face fabric with six different interlining(by thickness and structure) for earth Lyocell fabric were examined. In order to establish the optimum fusing condition for the different face fabric and interlining, peel strength of each fused fabric was measured, which was dependent on the fusing temperature, pressure, and time. The characteristics related appearance and mechanical characteristics of each fused fabric were determined. The results are as follows: The peel strength was excellent, when the fabric was fused with the force of 3kgf/$textrm{cm}^2$ at $120^{\circ}C$ for 15seconds. Flex stiffness, G, 2HG, 2HG5(shear), B, 2HB(bending) of 100% Lyocell fabric 10's were higher than those of 100% Lyocell 20's. Flex stiffness, crease recovery, G, 2HG, B, 2HB of thicker woven interlining were higher than those of thinner woven interlining. Crease recovery of twill interlining were higher than those of plain interlining. In case of shear and bending properties, however, plain interlining was higher than twill interlining. Flex stiffness, crease recovery, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB of nonwoven interlining were higher than those of woven interlining. In case of drapability, however, woven interlining was higher than nonwoven interlining.

The Effect of Fusible Interlining on the Appearance related Properties & Mechanical Characteristics for the Lyocell Fabric(Part I) (리오셀직물의 심지접착에 따른 외관적 성능 및 역학적 특성(제1보))

  • 김인영;송화순
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.7
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    • pp.1193-1202
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    • 2001
  • The goal of this research is to investigate the effect of fusible interlinings on the mechanical characteristics and appearance related values for the Lyocell fabrics. In this study, to establish optimum fusing conditions, peel strength of the fused fabrics depending on the fusing temperature, pressure and time was measured. Appearance related properties and mechanical characteristics of the fused fabrics ere determined. The reulst are as follows: In the fusing condition of $120^{\circ}C,\;3kgf/textrm{cm}^2$, 15sec, peel strength was excellent. Peel strength was excellent in the case of tencel/cotton fabric, with increasing cover factor of woven interlining, with twill and nonwoven interlining. Flex stiffness was increased in the case of tencel/cotton fabric, with increasing weight of woven interlining, with twill and nonwoven interlining. Drapability was excellent in the case of 100% tencel fabric, with decreasing weight of woven interlining, with plain and woven interlining. Crease recovery was excellent in the case of 100% tencel fabric, with increasing weight of woven interlining, with twill and woven interlining. Shear and bend properties were increased in the case of tencel/cotton fabric, with increasing weight of woven interlining, with plain and nonwoven interlining.

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Property changes of the machine-embroidered fabrics in stitch techniques and width (자수기법과 자수 폭에 따른 기계자수 직물 및 니트의 물성변화)

  • Chang, Eun-Jung;Park, Myung-Ja
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.21 no.3
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2019
  • This study examined the cause of the phenomenon of shrinkage in machine-embroidered fabrics, specifically those made of thin and pliable fabrics. Four woven fabrics and two knitted fabrics were selected as samples for analysis. The fabrics selected were silk organza, flax linen, polyester chiffon, cotton batiste, polyester raschel mesh, and cotton jersey. The thickness and drapability of the fabrics were observed and the shrinkage of the various types of embroidered fabrics produced using satin & step stitch techniques were measured. Moreover, the correlation between the shrinkage of the machine-embroidered fabrics and the drapability of the original fabrics was analyzed. Also, the colorfastness of six embroidery yarns was determined. The results of the study are as follows: first, the shrinkage of machine-embroidered fabrics increased at a greater rate than in embroidered knitted fabrics as compared to rates in embroidered woven fabrics. Moreover, in terms of stitch techniques, there was a greater shrinkage rate when satin stitch was applied compared to step stitch. Second, the shrinkage rate of machine-embroidered fabrics decreased when a stabilizer was fused onto the fabric. The shrinkage rate also decreased for fabrics when fused with paper stabilizer compared to those without it, and the rate decreased at a greater amount with paper stabilizer as compared to alginate film. Third, since there was a strong correlation between the shrinkage rate of the embroidered fabric and the drapability ratio of the original fabric, it was generally the case that the more pliable the fabric was, the greater the shrinkage rate was when the fabric was embroidered. Fourth, while the embroidery yarns mainly used in machine-embroidery presented an overall excellent level of colorfastness, there was slight color migration of level 4 to level 5 when using viscose rayon.

Development of an Expert System for Optimum Fusible Interlining (최적의 접착심지 선정을 위한 전문가시스템 개발)

  • Yun, Soon-Young;Kim, Sung-Min;Park, Chang-Kyu
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.11 no.4
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    • pp.648-660
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    • 2009
  • In this research, an expert system has been developed to select optimum well-matched fusible interlinings with a face fabric. First, a database of face fabrics and fusible interlinings has been constructed. And knowledge acquisition has been performed from the previous studies about the properties of fusible interlinings and fused composites as well as fusing prsocess quality control. Then, a rule-based knowledge-base has been constructed through knowledge classification. Finally, we have constructed an inference engine with the knowledge-base. The expert system enables us to easily select optimum fusible interlinings for a face fabric considering high quality fused composites and fashion trend.

The Changes of Appearance Formability of Hanji Blended Fabrics after Fusing (한지사 혼용 직물의 접착심 접착 후 외관 형성능의 변화)

  • Jee, Ju-Won
    • Human Ecology Research
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    • v.59 no.1
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    • pp.13-21
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    • 2021
  • In order to examine the changes in the appearance properties and the post-adhesion appearance properties of Hanji yarn blended fabrics : 100% Hanji yarn fabric, two kinds of cotton / Hanji yarn blended fabrics and 100% cotton fabric, were selected and fused with three kinds of interlinings. After fusing, changes of standardized KES values were examined. 1. W/T, B/W of Hanji yarn blended fabrics was higher than that cotton fabric. WC/W, 2HB/W, 2HB/B, and 2HG/G values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics are lower than cotton fabric. This means that the Hanji yarn was mixed, shape retention, wrinkle recovery was improved, and the drape property was lowered. 2. After fusing, W/T, shape retention, wrinkle recovery of Hanji yarn blended fabrics increased, and WC/W values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics decreased. The wrinkle recovery property of Hanji yarn blended fabrics were improved; however, the 2HG/G value of Hanji yarn fabric increased due to fusing, and the wrinkle recovery property of Hanji yarn fabric decreased. 3. In the selection of adhesive core, I1 adhesive core is excellent in terms of shape stability and wrinkle recovery; however, an I3 adhesive core is recommended for drape and silhouette formation. When the fabric of the adhesive core was PET, it was found to penetrate better between the fabrics during adhesion than the case of cotton fabrics.

Changes of Physical Properties of Hanji Yarn Blended Fabrics after Fusing (한지사 혼용직물의 접착심 접착 후 역학적 물성 변화)

  • Jee, Ju-Won
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.44 no.1
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    • pp.159-174
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    • 2020
  • We selected 100% cotton fabric, 100% Hanji yarn fabric and two kinds of cotton / Hanji yarn blended fabrics and fused them with three kinds of interlinings in order to examine changes to the physical properties and the post-adhesion physical properties of Hanji yarn blended fabrics. Changes in KES values were examined after fusing. First, EM, B, 2HB, MMD values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics were higher than cotton fabric, and LT, RT, G, 2HG, LC, WC values of cotton fabric were higher than Hanji yarn blended fabrics. Tensile recovery was lowered, bending stiffness was increased, and shear stiffness was lowered when Hanji yarn was mixed. Second, the KES value of LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, LC, WC increased after fusing, while the EM, MMD values decreased. SMD was shown to decrease or increase depending on the type of fabric. The adhesive effect on bending stiffness and shear stiffness due to the mixing of Hanji shows a different tendency in the comparison of αB and αG.

A Study on the Thermal Comfort and Air Permeability of Adhesive Fabrics Before and After Adhesion of Nonwoven Adhesive Interlining (부직포 접착심지 부착 전후의 접착포의 열적 쾌적성과 공기투과성에 관한 연구)

  • 김경희;김승진
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.22 no.7
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    • pp.807-815
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    • 1998
  • Functions of interlinings to the shell fabric are to improve the garment formability for a beautiful silhouette and elastic potential to the deformed fabric during wearing, and also are to enhance appearance and wearing properties of garment. The objective of this study is to analyse the thermal properties of nonwoven fusible interlining to the thin worsted fabric with various fabric structural parameters. For the purpose fo this study, eight specimens with various weft yarn twists and weft densities of thin worsted fabrics are prepared. Three nonwoven fusible interlinings with different structure which were made by Nylon/Polyester were used for adhering to the thin worsted fabrics. Thermal properties of these 24 adhesive fabrics fused with 3 nonwoven interlinings are measured by KES-F7 System for analysing the thermal suitability of nonwoven fusible interlinings to the thin worsted fabrics with various fabric structural parameters. And air permeability, which was measured by KES-F8-API, of 24 nonwoven adhesive interlining fabrics was also analysed and discussed with the various kinds of nonwoven interlinings and fabric structural parameters.

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Changes in Physical Properties of wool-Blended Fused Fabrics after Pressing and/or Ory Cleaning(Part I) (모 접착포의 프레싱 처리와 드라이크리닝 처리에 의한 물성의 변화(제1보))

  • Jee, Ju-Won;Lee, Dae-Hoon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.10
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    • pp.1809-1820
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구에서는 모 직물의 접착심과의 접착 후, 프레싱 처리 후, 드라이클리닝 처리 후 프레스로 처리한 실제의 의복의 관리와 생산 면에서 접할 수 있는 직물 변화에 대하여 물성 변화를 살펴보았다. 겉감으로는 신사복 춘하용 모 100% 또는 모혼방 직물 15종류를 사용하였으며 심지로는 신사복에 많이 쓰이는 3종류 심지를 사용하였다. KES시스템을 이용하여 직물의 접착후, 프레싱 처리 후, 드라이크리닝과 프레싱 처리 후의 물성 변화를 시험하였으며 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1) 접착 후 EM은 대체로 감소하지만 강성과 이력 현상은 증가하는 것으로 나타났다. 결과로 KOSHI, SHARI, HARI는 증가하고 THV는 감소하여 태는 접착으로 저하되었다. 2) 프레싱 처리 후는 접착 후와 큰 차이를 보이지 않는다. 마찰특성에서 좀더 매끄러워지고 마찰 계수는 증가하는 것으로 나타났다. 3) 드라이크리닝과 프레싱 처리 후의 물성의 변화에서는 위사 방향의 큰 값을 갖는 경우에 감소하는 것으로 나타났다. 굽힘 강성과 전단강성은 감소하였지만 이력은 증가하는 흥미로운 결과를 보인다. 드라이클리닝 용제의 효과로 여겨진다. 무게는 증가하여 직물이 처리 후 수축한 것으로 나타났다. 프레싱 처리 후와 비교시 KOSHI, SHARI, HARI와 FURAMl는 감소하고 THV는 증가하여 태가 향상하였다.

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